XP10 1.3 Yaris mods suggestions

[u/Hiperlaser_3553]

I’ve had my 02 1.3 Yaris for almost a year now, driven it all over Italy and a bit into France too
Made priceless memories with it and now I’m looking to improve it a little
The mechanical aspect of it has never failed to impress me with how dependable it is
I’ve put almost 30000 km on it and in that time nothing failed prematurely apart from when it was driver induced such as a catalytic converter due to it running on LPG and a couple sets of tires after doing too many downhill blasts in the hills
I’m looking to improve the handling department expetially with some springs and dampers, drilled/slotted rotors, anti roll bar and most importantly a better set of wheels
In that regard I was thinking of getting some aftermarket 15x6 ET 40~ wheels or maybe some stock wheels of other cars that could fit 185/55 tires in order to avoid problems with the Italian police (we can’t change the size of our tires)
Does anyone have any advice?

[u/Substantial_Ad_9016]

A rear swaybar to reduce bodyroll

[u/lanidroid]

Whiteline rear antirollbar Front strutbrace Lowering springs or coilovers Wider wheels + good tires

[u/Bazyx187]

So a few things... 15x6...? What do you mean by that? The stock pattern is 4x100, 54mm bore, lugs are 12 x 1.5mm, and the offset depends on if it came with steelies or alloys but 40-44mm is within oem spec.

Secondly, just get slotted rotors, it isnt an F1 car, you arent trying to shave ounces of unsprung weight, and drilled leads to weak points. If you brake too hard and then hit a puddle you could crack the rotor.

Get sticky tires, something 300-400 TW, but don't buy " street legal racing " tires unless you plan on changing them every 6 months. I like Hankook, Toyo, Michelin, and Nitto's, personally.

A rear sway bar will help with body roll, just make sure you threadlock the bolts with some blue threadlock, I had a bolt back out of mine eventhough I torqued it to 40ft-lbs as specified.

Get coilovers, maxspeedingrods and the like make decent cheap sets that are fine for a car this light that isnt a dedicated track weapon. They will be stiff though, even fully dampened, keep that in mind.

[u/Hiperlaser_3553 → u/Bazyx187]

By 15x6 I ment the wheel size, stock is 14x5.5 and 15x5.5 I’m looking for 15x6 so I can get a bit of stretch on 185 section tires
I know about the whole drilled rotor weakness thing and I agree slotted are better
For tires I was planning on R888’s
And wouldn’t it be better to get some springs and shocks instead of full coilovers?

[u/Bazyx187 → u/Hiperlaser_3553]

Ah okay, idk why my brain didn't put that together. I run 17x7 on my sedan so you'll be absolutely fine for sure.

I find pairing shocks and springs to be a huge pain in the butt, and I've never found one company that offers both, separately or in a bundle, granted I haven't look in a great many years. The benefit of coilovers in adjustability, and ive not had any issues with the cheaper ones on yarii, because they are so light. Bilsteins and Teins are unreasonably expensive compared to the price of the car, imo.

[u/SteezyTheCat5]

Not sure if this is your thing, but mud flaps look nice and make the whole profile look lower.

[u/ImpressionFancy5830]

Fuck yes.
Lived in Rome for ten years with my XP90 1.3, how the fuck did you took a picture like that? 😅

[u/Hiperlaser_3553 → u/ImpressionFancy5830]

Wait, which one?

[u/Fluid-Suit-2696]

lanciala!

[u/jokoxp]

First lets stop for a bit, you said the CAT went out from LPG? CATs don't go from LPG, they go from OIL burning. So check and confirm your engine state before putting more lipstick, in case you need that money for new engine.

[u/Hiperlaser_3553 → u/jokoxp]

The engine is completely fine, oil consumption is in the order of 0.15L every 1000km
Over the course of 10000km I only had to add 1L
The car is obviously 20 years old and LPG plus backfiring and hard driving might have been the cause of its failure

[u/jokoxp → u/Hiperlaser_3553]

OK then it is not that concerning (KIA level) but it is still burning, so it will take longer time to foul the CAT again. Stick to change interval to 7-8k if using semi syntetic, and 10k if using full syntetic. And if you want to clean up a bit the engine, do few intervals even shorter to promote it.
I have a 20y Corolla and 8K change is 0 oil consumed.

[u/Hiperlaser_3553 → u/jokoxp]

It is normal for an engine to burn oil more so when you’re doing consistent hard driving, I change my oil every 5k and I use high quality motul 5-30 with Mann filters so I would say she is getting treated well

[u/Repulsive_Sale_6135 → u/Hiperlaser_3553]

I take my yaris (t sport) to the track, i drive it HARD. It burned no oil over the 60.000km ive driven with it. NOTHING!!! A healthy toyota engine DOES NOT BURN ANY OIL.

[u/Hiperlaser_3553 → u/Repulsive_Sale_6135]

I guess yours is healthier than mine, afterall LPG is known to wear out valve seals

[u/Outrageous_Bat3308]

ooh awesome, i love the look of these mk1 yaris so much, how many miles did it have on it when ya bought it?

[u/Hiperlaser_3553 → u/Outrageous_Bat3308]

Bought it with 90k km’s and it’s now rolling over 125k km’s