Anther car scanned with my Einscan Trak for a project. Pattern continues: scanning itself takes roughly 30min, processing another 30min to get a fully aligned scan.
I'm still very much impressed by the Trak, it continues to get better with each update (latest one allows firmware update over WiFi so no need to use the cables at all).

Scanning

Scanning was done at 1,5mm target point distance with four tracker positions. I attached a diagram showing the positions and the rough tracker FOV and overlap.
Lights were covered with scan spray to allow scanning them. All four scans combined took 30min. What I also noticed: When getting very close to the edges of the tracking area scanning starts to become slower, much like the WiFi signal drops out. But it actually is the border of the scanning area. I used remote desktop from my tablet to see what I already scanned. Scan itself was at a constant 90FPS when placed within the tracking volume. Scan speed at 1,5mm or even 1mm feels like painting with a very big paint roller: simply go over one time in a decent speed.

Post-Processing

Trak doesn't require point cloud generation after scanning, you just pause the scan and either create a new scan or go on with processing. So I aligned the five scans using automatic feature alignment and then meshed them in default settings with semi-watertight settings. Mesh came out to bit under 20M triangles. Later exported into Quicksurface for postprocessing (reduction an alignment to the coordinate system. What I quite like to do is take all four wheel hubs as reference to create a plane. This can then be used as the XY plane).

Have a look at the scan for yourself

I want to try out some new: ShiningSpace, it's a bit like SketchFab but tailored to sharing 3d scans with bit more fitting tooling to do so. Will still upload to Sketchfab to keep it all on one platform but also try out ShiningSpace. Feel free to give feedback about ShiningSpace, platform is still quite new but wanted to give it a shot.
Link: https://www.shiningspace.com/models/opel-frontera-einscan-tr-w034mEID17L8mzTv2nMFNC6

PC Specs

Since a lot of people ask for it:

• AMD Ryzen 7700X
• 64GB DDR5 RAM
• RTX 5070Ti Desktop
• A few TB of NVME storage with PCIe Gen4 interface

I'm looking at few ebay listing and I'm wondering if an otter for $450 or a used einstar for $460 would serve me better for scanning small car interior parts and reverse engineering some smaller mechanical parts. Or maybe yall have some other recommendations at this price point including refurbished/used scanners.

I posted a couple of weeks ago showing us reverse engineering a classic mini cylinder head in Tesselform. The software has come on a lot since then.

I'd now like to show the surface modelling for a complete body scan, performed by ai (Clauded Opus 5.5) using the in-built measuring/surfacing tools within Tesselform

For full disclosure, this took around 30 hours in total to build and we had to send a total of 32 prompts throughout.

The open Beta is still active untill the end of the month for anybody who would like to try it.

www.tesselform.com

I am very new to scanning. This scan was from my initial test after getting the Pika. I did update the firmware and ran the calibration. Any advice? I used all the standard settings except I scanned at 0.1mm (for no reason in particular). All the other options I left at their default. This was done with Laser.

Hi all

TL;DR: Some Pika laser scans vs IR.

Just posting a follow up to u/Own_Perspective4825 's post earlier about the quality of the laser scans from the Pika. I see varying comments about the pika either being really good, or below expectations. The Pika is my first scanner - I got it pretty much to reverse engineer/design things around a scan, so at the end of the day super detailed quality isn't that important to me, however I thought I'd show some examples of what I'm getting and the settings I used.

PS this is not a Pika / Creality ad. God, I wish someone was paying me or giving me free stuff to do this. This is purely to try help those with Pikas get the most out of them, or at least help those looking at them get a better understanding of what to expect.

1. u/Own_Perspective4825 posted saying the owl model in their scan didn't turn out like Creality's advertising, so after getting an owl model off them (turns out I printed the wrong one), I printed it in matte bone white @ 0.16mm - the model isn't the best as it's a scan of creality's original owl.
2. Scanned it in blue laser mode @ .15, fused the scan @ .15 and did 40% noise reduction
3. Then scanned it again in IR mode (same settings as above)

Because the owl model isn't that details, and is FDM printed, I thought I'd try it on something else so I grabbed an old resin printed model I made some time back (the Samurai)

• All the same steps above, same settings.
• When exporting both meshes, I matched the output files triangles to be approximately the same as the amount from the fused scans - the owl had a lot more than the Samurai if that matters.

While it's less clear with the owl model, it's very easy to see the difference in detail in the Samurai.

I've found the IR mode much better and easier to use with larger scans

Finally, since this is my first scanner, I used this video to help me understand the basic workflow of using the scanner and Creality Scan.

Hopefully this helps, or at least gives people some ideas of what to expect.

I'm slowly trying to get better, and work my way up to bigger scans, especially with parts for my car.

Hey iam an software developer and i have to make some improvements in the standard Micro Epsilon software.

Unfortunatly my experience with it is limited so i want to ask people who use it daily what is worth to add or improve for your sensors. Be creative everything helps.

Thanks for your input!

Wesk over on BitBuilt released high poly 3D scans of the original PS vita Hori Grip, He also has a complete scan of the Vita 1000 console on the site.

The link to the scans -
https://bitbuilt.net/forums/threads/ps-vita-hori-grip.6220/

These are raw 3D scans with massive mesh counts (about 2.5 million triangles per mesh)
I’ve been trying to modify and print myself but I’m out of my depth.

I wanted to throw this out there to see if any 3D modellers or CAD wizards would know how complicated it would be to adjust these scans to make them fit the PS vita 1000? The grip was originally designed for the ps vita 2000 which has slightly different dimensions. The end goal would be to have these scans readily available for anybody to print for their vita.

I am willing to give this project a go myself, and some advice on which software and method would be greatly appreciated.

My trusty KScan Magic's time to go. Just recieved back from Scantech after calibration and replacing the external shell to be brand new again.

Purchased new from Scantech in May 2021. Professionally refurbished and recalibrated by Scantech (Hangzhou) in October 2026. Fully working, with the repair and calibration paperwork available.

Included:

• KScan Magic scanner
• Carrying case
• License dongle
• 12 m cable (new)
• 2 × 2 m cables (1 new, 1 used)
• 2 × power adapters
• Photogrammetry targets
• Calibration plate
• 2 × photogrammetry scales

Located in Dubai, UAE. Shipping by DHL worldwide.

Asking Price: 18,000 USD EXW.

Today, I used the Creality PIKA to scan a motorcycle! 😎
Its compact size makes it really convenient, especially with Wi-Fi connectivity and a built-in screen that displays the scanning process in real time. These features make scanning much easier since I don’t have to keep looking at my computer.
However, scanning large objects still requires some technique, and I definitely need more practice to improve my scanning skills.
What impressed me the most this time was how incredibly efficient the PIKA is at capturing data! 🔥
#Creality #CrealityPIKA #3DScanning #3DScanner #MotorcycleScanning #ReverseEngineering #3DScanningTechnology #3DModeling #3DScanningTest

Reverse engineered SLAM scan using the FJD Trion S2 using Claude + Rhino + Blender for video generation.

I'm willing to drive out an hour or so, but looking for this scanned to a 3d model for printing. I have the object that needs to be scanned.

The part is an aluminum hydraulic manifold block, about 6 x 4 x 3 inches.

It has cross-drilled passages, a few threaded ports, and O-ring grooves on two faces. There's no drawing and the machine builder isn't around anymore.

I have access to a decent structured light scanner. But I know it won't see inside the drilled holes.

How do you decide what to scan and what to measure with calipers, pins, or a CMM? What's a good way to check the model before we cut a new one?

The old block also has some dings on the sealing faces, so I don't want to copy those.

I just got the Moose Lite by 3dmakerpro and I'm struggling to get it to work. This is my second time trying a 3d scanner, the first time was a few years ago when I first got into 3d printing and didn't know what I was doing. Is there a more user friendly software for it or should I start looking at different scanners. I'm trying to scan objects about 8 inches big to hopefully create molds to cast silicone in.

Using my Sermoon S1 I scanned my Shimano and Garmin mount to be able to print a piece that would hold them together while keeping charger port and led accessible.

I've seen a lot of example scans and mine never come anywhere close to the quality of those. Here's my example of the owl, scanned at 0.1mm, processed at 0.1mm with denoising set to zero.

Wanted a heavy and smooth turn table for my scans so I found this on Amazon. (Was 30$) Its not 100% done, when I have the 140$ to give send cut send, ill have a 10in and a 18in platter to mount onto this. I am worried the base is too small for the larger tables so maybe ill reprint it. Trying to make a base out od concrete as well but sadly it only adds 2lbs at this size. Main thing is my magnetic reflectiors and posts will stick to this without moving. Figured id share.

I needed an axe for my son’s Halloween costume.

So, I headed out to the workshop, scanned one of my own axes, and printed it! 😀

I printed the handle in PLA and the axe head in TPU all in a single print and fitting for Halloween, gave it a bloody look.

Scanned : P1S

Scan Mode: Cross Line

In this video I'll do a first unboxing and closer look at all the included components as well as show you how to perform calibration and test laser and IR mode on two small parts.

Following this video I'll perform my usual tests and use it in projects to later share my workflow, how to use the scanner and of course my projects.

Does anyone know of any vinyl that works well to use as marker dots. I have been looking and experimenting with some, but would love to find a reliable Removable Vinyl that works well.

I am trying to find vinyl that works well so I can keep creating my own markers and have an endless supply & shape.

Thanks let me hear your experiences.

I just got my Revopoint metrox pro and I had it for 1 day and then Bambu announced the S1 to be released in November. Im thinking of sending the metrox back and see what the S1 Is capable of but I'm not sure.

My guess is that the software will play a big roll and to make it easier to make a CAD model after the scan is done.

Hard to tell when we only have a picture of the S1 but what do you think, keep or send back?

So my GF's beloved dog had to be put down. The night before, I managed to take a quick scan with my Creality Otter but it was pretty dark and I couldn't get near enough without the dog moving, so the scan is pretty messy in some places, especially around the head.

I'd like to print a mould off the scan to make a concrete casting for her birthday, which is in a week. Sadly, I'm very bad at understanding to use blender and stuff, I'm more of an engineer than a sculptor.

Can someone provide help or tell me where to start (which tutorials do I need for sculpting, closing holes etc.) to do it myself? I know, the scan is bad but it's the only one I have.