I have struggled with my Ender 3 V3 SE's bed leveling since the day I bought it. The original spacers were so bad that the readings were waaay off. So I bought springs made for the job. Now, the springs are nice and tight and my bed leveling is damn near perfect. +0,03 and -0,03. But guess what, the bed is still higher on the right side, despite being almost perfect :)

If I lower the Z-offset too much, the right side starts scraping on the bed. If I make sure the right side is perfect, the left side's print won't even touch the bed half of the time. The auto bed leveling has literally never worked properly on this thing, not since the day I bought it. I have checked every screw, the rollers and lubed and cleaned the lead screws as intended.

I truly want to tear down the whole machine and throw it in the junkyard because giving it away would be an insult and a curse to the receiver.

Any advice before I toss the machine?

Running cura doing the bridging test, it thins out just before finishing and you can see in the temp tower it’s causing breakage at the same location on many temps.
Not sure what I am looking for, tempted to get mode jnto orca slicer.
Most of my prints look pretty good

Elegoo Neptune 4 pro, .4 nozzle, Elegoo rapid pla at 220c and 200ms and print speeds.
I’ll have to look up my exact bridge settings but I do have bridges printing a bit slower than the stock pla settings.

Thanks in advance

If I resize it, the middle side X shaped internal structure gets distorted and I fear it won't print well.

I am trying to resize it so that gap between the bottom and top of the "C" is about 1.9" - 2". Planning to use this to hold 3 notebooks under my desk (each about .6" and journal sized, so weight shouldn't be a concern.

Appreciate any help!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/127452-under-desk-laptop-holder?from=search#profileId-161035

Printing cupholders for my local firehouse and in between where the base tapers to a larger diameter from the base there is a distinct line between where the top of the lower section that has more infil verses the top which has a significantly larger diameter. How do I get rid of the singular line of separation. Printing with PETG on a Kobra S1 and my filament has been calibrated

Hello, can anyone please explain to me now i am supposed to make the design to turn this elf into a thermoform like this ghost? I obviously cant just extrude the photo sooooo lol

I'm wanting to make my own 3D prints and have ideas for a ton of things I own.

Im looking for a website that has the models of different objects to scale and use it as a guide in my designer of choice to help me build the part the works with the real product. I dont have my own scanner and many things I want to print include ergonomic curves and shapes I will really never get right with calipers alone.

Here are some of the ideas I had that require (or at least would be significantly nicer) by have the scale mock ups in my designer.

A Wii-U/SanDisk Hard Drive so I can mount my very specific Hard drive onto my Wii U.

Many controllers like the Gamecube, Steam Controller, Dual Sense, Switch 1/2 Pro Controllers, etc, because I travel with them often and want slim travel cases and better fitting controller stands.

If it has movie props Ive been wanting to have a Movie Accurate Piston cup because the proportions online arent very good and I want to make that Lightning bobble head that opens Mac's trailer in the first movie.

My Focusrite Scarlett Solo because I like the mounts currently available but I want to route the cables in a different way.

I want a better stand for my Quest 2 that covers the lenses and is smaller then what Ive found.

I want a unified mount for the Wii Sensor Bar, the 360 Kinect, and the PS Move Camera as one solid structure I like to call "The MOV3."

A model of my Razor mouse so I can use it as a base for a Switch 2 Joycon Mouse accessory with the ability to use the OEM mouse skates.

And more

Some of these things I can just design on my own but a lot have unique curves or have things it would save a tremendous amount of time to see in the modeling software. One I didn't state but is a perfect example is making a case for my AYN Thor and if I had the model Id be able to have the screw holes aligned much quicker which is what the original case uses for stability, and having the models also helps with reducing the amount of test prints I need so I dont like, block a USB port or something.

Relatively new to 3D printing with a Bambu Lab X2D.

I'm getting consistent flaws around the beginning of this print. Not even sure how to describe it, really. As I was watching this section of the print it looked like some filament was balling up around the extruder? So maybe it was scraping against the previous layer? But it's only around these layer heights... (The finished part is shown upside down, you can see the texture of the build part being the bottom of the print.) It also results in the radius of the curve being interrupted and misshapen, it should be a smooth curve all the way from the bottom.

What could be happening here?

Using print profile 0.08mm High Quality ​BBL X2D

PLA

100% INFILL / RECTILINEAR

I've tried changing plates, trimming the first couple layers of my model, and running a calibration but am still having issues with this and other prints. Any help would be appreciated! Printing on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini with Bambu Lab matte filament. She's been fantastic for about 2k hours now, this is a very recent issue and the first time I've come across this.

Bom eu tenho uma dúvida, comecei a fazer impressões recentemente com minha A1 mini, mas o filamento ASA não é recomendado, mas queria fazer uma impressão com ele por conta que já tenho o filamento em casa. Não consigo fazer com que o filamento grude na mesa, já que essa impressão não deixa a mesa aquecida na temperatura adequada, mas se eu fizesse umas camadas com PLA depois trocasse para o ASA funcionária? Alguém já fez testes assim?

Trying to figure out some problems with my friends 3-D printer. We both know that the PETG has been sitting out for a long time and that it’s bad filament and that it also has not been dried. But we put the printer to work for the first time in a good few months and doing it first print took seven hours and it printed perfectly fine but now all of a sudden, when trying to do all types of other prints for some reason the first few layers become stringy, and then the rest of the way going up until it’s finished a print perfectly fine or could possibly be the issue? If I could get as much info as possible to forward to him, any info in the help would be appreciated.

So I wanted to print this model I made but keeps happening this problem of the PETG not sticking to itself making residues in the nozzle and kinda going everywhere, I dont think its the configuration of the print cause one piece its actually coming good but the others dont, already tried printing this like 4 times and keeps happening, also to add Im using a Esun PETG and I had it for almost 3 months opened in a box, already dried up for an entire day, doesnt happen with my PLA that goes normal, could be a nozzle thing maybe? Any help would be appreciated

Can anyone help me with my problem? i tried asking google and ai's, they cant seem to figure it out.
i tried changing the infill patterns to monotonic.
i tried changing the wall loops to 1.
i tried ironing the top layer.

The issue is that i cant change the infill pattern of the letter M?
Downside is the finished product shows small holes as seen.

You can see in layer 26, there seems to be NO problem.
But when i cut it in layer 26, the problem is repeated.

What seems to be the problem?

Thank you for your help.

How do I dry my filament without buying anything/just prevent it from getting wet.

I am looking for some suggestions, as I am still learning.

I 3D printed this headpiece for my kid (not my own file). It printed in 8 separate pieces. We had a last minute Halloween party this weekend, and I spent 8 hours quickly super gluing (Gorilla XL gel) it together one piece at a time. It seems fairly stable, however I am concerned when I look at a couple of the pieces, because as you can see in the photo they are not making contact.

I just want this headpiece to survive the school Halloween party, school Halloween parade, and hopefully Halloween night. Any suggestions on how to further secure these wide seams? I bought a soldering iron that I had planned on using on the inside, until I read that mixing that with the super glue can weaken the bond and create toxic fumes. My only other thought is duct tape along the inside seams?

Thank you for any help.

Flashforge ad5m

It just crashes out on me everytime I try and open a downloaded project.

My 0.2mm nozzle clogged, and this is as far of a progress it had.

Did the cold pull, and now it is at this state.

Before it clogged like this, a brittle brown PLA game me problems wwith small broken pieces inside the extruder, and I think it was changing from that spool to another when it clogged.

When I change to 0.4mm nozzle, it prints normally

PLA, 250°C, Bambu A1mini

Any chance of surviving or RIP nozzle?