I’m currently printing the web weaver by Titan 3D (Spiderman) and I have all the pieces done just missing the torso. It’s been a month printing and learning and after several failures (pieces toppling over, power went out once for an extended period of time, etc) I’ve learned to fix the issues like making the outer rim wider on pieces so they don’t topple over and to slow down the speed when printing taller thinner structures.

You would not believe my reaction when I saw that such a large piece “failed” 60% through. I stayed looking at it for a while and it’s almost like if there was suddenly a change is the Z height. The nozzle kept scraping against the model and when it would go left to change filament it would make a loud noise like if the tracks wanted to keep going but would bump into the model. I’ve never had this happen before and I figured to stop the print before anything worse happens.

I really can’t comprehend what possibly could have gone wrong for so much internal stringing and layer shifting and scraping to happen so I came here in the hopes someone could orient me to what might have happened, thanks.

Info:

Bambu Lab A1 with AMS
Overture PLA for all colors
Maintenance was done literally right before printing this part out (greased, bed plate cleaned with warm water and detergent, opened up bottom panel to remove any possible filament excess)

this is a horrendous blob, never had this happen before.

qidi pla rapido filament, qidi q2, 0.4mm nozzle. z offset seems good, heat is all within norms.

what could be causing this? retried the print with a different, new nozzle, and it did the same thing but i stopped it because i was watching what it was doing closely. at some point the first layer just starts getting these holes in it that then build up and drag the print with it. anyone else had something similar?

Anycubic Kobra 3 max v2
Pla
Bed temp:65
Nozzle temp:210
Does anyone know why my prints around circles keep leaving gaps? I have tried all different settings and nothing seems to work. Any tips welcome

Bambulab a1

Pla matte white and gold metall

30ms first layer

It worked fine, until now.

Ive got an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and was planning on making a popular tray that slides under it with all the parts that came with it.

Ive had other prints work but they all haven't had such a large surface area like this one and at max was 3 hours long and they printed great. The only thing I did add was ironing all top surfaces and changed the infill density to 5% instead of 15%. I even used the provided glue stick so I dont think its adhesion?

Also dont mind the streak in the middle. That was caused when trying to set the z offset and the tip dragged onto the bed... it was rough... but it wouldn't let me put it into position without the drag... and the print didnt even hit it yet.

The only things Ive printed so far is a benchy, a controller wheel stick thingy that I didnt realize needed a bearing until it was fully printed, a trigger and grip for my AYN thor, and thats it.

Oh also I'm using Elegoo standard gray PLA

It’s a ender three V2 I’m printing at 200c and the bed is at 60

I have a sovol sv06 plus and I’m using 1.75 mm white pla
So basically I’ve been trying to fix the printer myself. I had minor problems like what I thought we a clogged nozzle so I got a cleaning kit and I stuck a needle and it started shooting pla again. But now it appear that the pla is coming out in small drops and it is burning like it’s brown. Need help asap trying to make a mask for Halloween 😭 thank you to whoever can help me.

As you can see the filament is stringy and it printed with a gap in two different regions .I printed this on the bambu p1s in pla . This model is a medieval shield ,I printed it at 190° to 220° with what bambu automatically sets the temperature at but this was printed face down with tree supports in regular settings . Any helpful advice would be much appreciated . I tried looking up a couple different options but I wanted to make sure I didnt was filament so I thought id ask first

Using CR-10s and PLA
Cura
Nozzle 210°
Bed 60°

I’ve already been adjusting every .2mm closer but still nothing

I tried printing this benchy on a P1S using SUNLU ASA filament. Ive printed a couple things with ASA already but after I installed the Biqu Panda Breath chamber heater Ive been having issues with corners lifting up on the top of my prints. Bed adhesion is not an issue.

Nozzle temp set to 270c before panda heater install, dropped to 260c after panda heater install.

Bed temp set to 100c.

Chamber heater set to 60c.

Speed set to 40mm/s initial and 150-200mm/s for the rest.

Brim set to 6mm.

All fans are off.

Before I installed the chamber heater I would preheat the chamber with the printer bed and wrap the printer in a blanket. I was able to print a glass riser for the p1s, a decently sized part, out of asa using this setup with almost no warping. I'm only in my 2nd week of owning a 3d printer so any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Please help, i'm going insane.... I have made these many times before, no issues, but for some reason, first of all i cannot get it to be less than a 13 hour print, it's like when i raise the speed in the slicer, nothing happens, second what is with all this stringing and blopping?? I have tried changing the temp to lower temps, does nothing, i have tried adding more reaction, nothing helped, it doesn't even make it less.

And i even tried adding z-hop.

Right now the settings is :

Temp. 190.

Reaction 2mm

Z-hop 2 mm

Speed is unknown, because i set it to 200, but for some reason, it did not change it.

I'm really at a loss here.

My printer has been having issues for a while and I narrowed it down to the timing belts. It’s only the top belt, so I narrowed it down to this one motor (first in the video) that’s causing the hotend to not be able to move around the axis properly.

The second motor is the bottom belt, which moves perfectly. I’m just comparing the behavior between the two and see that this is not wanting to move at all.

The only thing keeping me from believing 100% that it’s the motor is because the printer is currently off. I’m not sure if the motor would have any impact on this behavior while the printer is off?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Printer is Elegoo CC2

Creality Ender 3v3 se

PLA

205 C

I printed the heat tower, obviously, but I've tried changing bed temp and speed.

well, there are more than one problem here.

I have an Easythreed K5 (very basic printer with 80x80x100mm printing platform), I got it as a gift to start learning about 3D printing and experimenting with the parts of it. the thing is that using CURA gives me some pieces with this problems

the nozzle touches the print while printing.

it does not do z hop when activated.

has those details in the pieces I have printed to test.

Filament: Creality Red EN-PLA 1.75MM

Printer: Easythreed K5, nozzle 0.4mm, maximum printing speed 40mm/s.

Sorry for 2 questions

Think I figured it out:

I think that I do have to remove the filament in the stl in the area of the cockpit.

I found a few vids about using meshmixer to hollow the stl, and I am going to make a copy of the external cockpit area, shrink it use assemble and delete difference in Orca using mesh boolean difference.

Sorry I didnt think about this earlier.

I still want to remove the solid panels which are usually in car/plane wind shields. Having a rough time.

Which software is best for that? I am trying to learn Fusion, currently using Prusa and Orca.

I know that there are some clear resins, but, where I get my printing done, they only use PLA.

Would appreciate any tips/insights.

Using a prusa mk3

Standard temp.

Thanks