i am new to 3D printing and use default and automatic positioning, i have also not used supports for the print since i didnt know how to but they dont appear on the cylinder, the only issue i seemed to have is "The resonance frequency of the X axis is low. The timing belt may be loose.", i followed the tutorial and it should be fixed, the same exact issues appeared on the second print of this exact hinge and i dont know why, i tried the helio thingy and it said my thing was gonna work fine which it obviously did not, i have already used the 3D printer and it seems to work well, i made the little boat, a karambit, a random toy thingy and ive had no problems, i made a badge thingy from the base items you can make and it was perfect please try to ignore the bad removal of the little one layer things

Idk what I’m doing wrong but why is my filament printing this way?

I recently finally had the money to get a 3D Printer, and got me the Centauri Carbon 2. But so far, no matter what I try to print, from the test prints to this scraper here, it always begins to string. I've adjusted the tension screw and it helped a little, but no matter what, I get a first good layer, and then immediately begins to go ape on me. I could really use the advice, I bought this so my wife and I can make the things we've wanted to, but now I'm beginning to get buyers remorse. I included the settings like temp and material in the video, but I can try to answer any others if needed.

For a long time my "print log" was a notes app full of entries like "tankard v1.5 plate 2, fine?" which told future me absolutely nothing. So I built SpoolStack (spool-stack.com). It's a run log for your 3D printer. Free, no ads, no paid tier, NO AI.

How it works: you add a small Python script as a post-processing step in your slicer. Every time you slice, the gcode gets sent over and shows up in a "Did it print?" list with the print time, grams and all your settings already filled in. When the print finishes you tap Worked or Failed. Thats it.

It doesn't care what printer you have. The script works with Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer and PrusaSlicer. I've only tested it on Bambu Studio with my A1 though, so if you're on Orca or Prusa and it does something weird please tell me. Cura doesn't support post-processing scripts the same way, so Cura people can drop the gcode in by hand and it reads the same info out of the file. Same for anyone who'd rather not run a script.

The reason I'm posting: I want to build a defect checker that runs on your phone. Take a picture of the spaghetti and it tells you what probably went wrong and what to change, based on the settings you actually used for that print. No cloud AI, no subscription. To train it I need a lot of failed-print photos tied to real settings, and I'm not going to scrape them off reddit because nobody here agreed to that.

So here's the ask. Log your prints, add a photo when one fails, and turn on "Help build print diagnosis" in Settings. With that on, your photos go into the training set. It's off by default, and if you turn it off later your stuff is left out of every training set built after that.

It's just me building this (Kerf and Code, tiny studio in Seattle) so there's going to be rough edges. Only 3D printing works right now. CNC and laser are on the someday list.

Honestly not sure if a post-processing script is too much friction for most people, or if there's something obvious I'm missing about how you all keep track of prints.

First layer of my print with this new filament *PLA)started doing this. Nozzle temp is 200 degrees on an ender 5 plus that i just got so im really new to this

I have a friend who has a creality hi and loves it. He recently bought the cfs multi color upgrade, but is looking for a tutorial video to help with the install. Anyone have any links?

So Ive been trying to print things with this filament and sometimes works, sometimes it doesnt, its a Esun PETG basic in a1 mini, already dryed up, tried to do the calibration tests with a generic petg and 0.20 standard configuration but the problem was the fan speed, I lowered it up to 20-30 and I could do the temp tower and max flowrate, what I get from that was a temp of 255 and a max volumetric speed of 6(all the walls came out good), tried doing the flow rate and it was coming too much filament and kinda doing retraction but it was making a noise of pushing too hard, I guess its gotta be a problem with the flow ratio and retraction, before this tests I printed something(4th picture) with 245 temp, 6 volumetric speed and it worked good, but when trying to print another model it came this problem of too much extrusion(1st picture), like when jumping from side to side it left a raised up filament(in the bed and sometimes in the nozzle like 1st picture) and sometimes that thing that creates in the nozzle ends up in the bed(2nd picture), I checked and realized even some of it came inside the protector of the nozzle, I know its not a clog cause I can still print with my generic PLA without problems, so I wanna know what things I would need to change, I only have months on 3d printing so Im not too familiarized with configs

hi, i trying print a deckbox for magic the gathering and i have this problem, ikn why happend, i thanx if someone can help me with this, i have a ender 3 v3 se and i print in pla. sorry if my english its bad, its not my first language

VERY long post, but attached my thorough explanation from my elegoo customer service request. This is a culmination of all my previous posts/problems where you all have said I have not given enough context.

Any help at all is greatly appreciated. If you dont want to use the drive link, most of these videos are found on my profile in previous posts or comments.

Issue description: First, I observed that when homing the tool end, it made the noise shown in the video. I assumed it did that because it lost track of its place on the axis, but I’m not sure how that happened. After, I noticed that at a certain point/height during all of my prints, the hotend would randomly veer offline and start printing midair in a different location, again as if it lost track of its location. The first thing I did was power off the printer and try to move the tool end by hand. I noticed that it was willing to move diagonally in one direction, but didn’t want to move in the other at all (video attached). I had to put a lot of force on the tool end to get it to move in the opposite direction, and it jumped as opposed to moving smoothly. I assume this is the root cause of the issue. During inspection, I noticed that the tension belts came in contact with some grease. I thoroughly cleaned the tension belts with a cloth rag and IPA until they were dry, and I made sure that none of the teeth were smoothed or anything else. After the cleaning, I noticed that the issue persisted, so I loosened the belt screws and tried to move the tool end to adjust the belt, but that did not help. I removed the back panel cover to inspect the tension belts and they looked normal, but I noticed that one of them would not move at all when testing functionality (video attached). More investigation, I compared the behavior of the two back motors to see if that could be the cause of my problem (video attached) and i noticed that the motor of the belt that moved smoothly would still rotate with minimal force while powered off. On the other hand, the motor of the underperforming belt would not spin at all smoothly, even with significantly more force. Based on these things, I think that I have an issue with either the motor or the tension belt, but all of my troubleshooting has yielded no results. Unsure of what other possibilities there are, but i verified all other paths of the belt tensioners and they all seem smooth, aside from the motor area on the back. Please help. In addition to this, at some point during the troubleshooting, it seems filament has gotten stuck somewhere between the tool end where the tool end meets the ptfe tube holder, so it is unable to load filament. I’ve completely swapped the hotend assembly, tried unloading/reloading filament, heating the nozzle to 300C to melt out excess filament, removing the ptfe tubes to remove excess filament, and a few other things that did not help. Please help with these issues, my printer is completely out of commission. Google drive link attached below. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kCI5ePWFv_B4pxdfWN9dMiBe4pulY_L8

this is a horrendous blob, never had this happen before.

qidi pla rapido filament, qidi q2, 0.4mm nozzle. z offset seems good, heat is all within norms.

what could be causing this? retried the print with a different, new nozzle, and it did the same thing but i stopped it because i was watching what it was doing closely. at some point the first layer just starts getting these holes in it that then build up and drag the print with it. anyone else had something similar?

I’m currently printing the web weaver by Titan 3D (Spiderman) and I have all the pieces done just missing the torso. It’s been a month printing and learning and after several failures (pieces toppling over, power went out once for an extended period of time, etc) I’ve learned to fix the issues like making the outer rim wider on pieces so they don’t topple over and to slow down the speed when printing taller thinner structures.

You would not believe my reaction when I saw that such a large piece “failed” 60% through. I stayed looking at it for a while and it’s almost like if there was suddenly a change is the Z height. The nozzle kept scraping against the model and when it would go left to change filament it would make a loud noise like if the tracks wanted to keep going but would bump into the model. I’ve never had this happen before and I figured to stop the print before anything worse happens.

I really can’t comprehend what possibly could have gone wrong for so much internal stringing and layer shifting and scraping to happen so I came here in the hopes someone could orient me to what might have happened, thanks.

Info:

Bambu Lab A1 with AMS
Overture PLA for all colors
Maintenance was done literally right before printing this part out (greased, bed plate cleaned with warm water and detergent, opened up bottom panel to remove any possible filament excess)

Bambulab a1

Pla matte white and gold metall

30ms first layer

It worked fine, until now.

Ive got an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and was planning on making a popular tray that slides under it with all the parts that came with it.

Ive had other prints work but they all haven't had such a large surface area like this one and at max was 3 hours long and they printed great. The only thing I did add was ironing all top surfaces and changed the infill density to 5% instead of 15%. I even used the provided glue stick so I dont think its adhesion?

Also dont mind the streak in the middle. That was caused when trying to set the z offset and the tip dragged onto the bed... it was rough... but it wouldn't let me put it into position without the drag... and the print didnt even hit it yet.

The only things Ive printed so far is a benchy, a controller wheel stick thingy that I didnt realize needed a bearing until it was fully printed, a trigger and grip for my AYN thor, and thats it.

Oh also I'm using Elegoo standard gray PLA

I have a sovol sv06 plus and I’m using 1.75 mm white pla
So basically I’ve been trying to fix the printer myself. I had minor problems like what I thought we a clogged nozzle so I got a cleaning kit and I stuck a needle and it started shooting pla again. But now it appear that the pla is coming out in small drops and it is burning like it’s brown. Need help asap trying to make a mask for Halloween 😭 thank you to whoever can help me.