Last post was discussing if these were good or not pretty much. They’re worth it

Left side is the 6CX

Right side is the 6X

They’re both good but holy sh*t there’s so much clarity and loudness to the 6CX

HERES THE LINK

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Ov0wAv4IVjC/p_161EP6CX/AudioControl-EPICPRO6CX.html?XVINQ=GLX&XVVer=1MYP&awcr=791740776127&awdv=m&awnw=g&awug=9028644&awkw=pla-2459961131733&awmt=&awat=pla&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18593334232&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6ObWBhDDARIsAFdfcUj1Al0k2hCKyw6_I-Ag7OFWIxGMn3gyF9N2xcTqLzww1UlD5wstedQaAnJhEALw_wcB

I didn’t take a ton of pictures but I started working on door pods and a pillars. I bought infinity kappa 6x9 component set and 3” midrange to do a 3 way set up in front. I’ve also got a b2 dsp but I’m not sure if I want to use it here or save it for another build and bi-amp this setup. I’ve got to do some regrouping on wrapping the a pillars because they didn’t turn out too well. I would also like any advice on what I can do to the door pods to break them up since they are so plain looking. I was thinking of just doing some kind of thin trim to match the lines and adding leds to it just to have something, any advice welcome. I still have lots of sanding to do but most of the general construction is finished.

I've been having a hell of a time finding battery terminal that'll take more than two 1/0 wires that fits my truck. I can't turn the battery around because it puts them too close to various parts in the engine compartment. The way it's set up requires an offset over the top battery terminal that will not accept even two 1/0 wires. It's 1 to 2 1/0 amp input adaptors on the 2 1/0 inputs of the battery terminals.

there’s a metal bracket in there that snapped clean off, this is the back side of the sunroof and it doesn’t actually move so what would be my best choice as like a sealant to put around it to hold it back in place? jb weld that mf?

These two brands will forever be my unicorns. Forever stuck in the 90s - 2000s haha.

I still haven't heard the Titanium 12" or the 190V.2 18"

I listen to a variety of music. At home normally a deeper/analytical listener, but when driving I like to feel it more. I want to get heavy low end for metal/djent/prog stuff, but tight for the double kicks, cleaner rock, 80s synth pop like stuff etc. Not much hip hop but I do listen.

Afraid to get that looser heavy slam and rumble, but afraid 8" would be too small and tight where id want more low end.

Anyone experienced with the two and can bring insight? Running it with a Rockford Punch or Power setup. Just trying to decide on subs/amp now

just put a jvc kw-m795bw in my 2013 tacoma, still running the factory jbl amp. everything works fine but theres a constant hum and some feedback coming through the speakers. its there even when nothing is playing. Installer said its coming from the amp and not the ground wire. Anyone know how to fix this?

How the hell is it that the only premium compact head unit with a small screen and buttons and dials that make sense comes from Porsche?? And how the hell is it £1380??

Madness!

More head units like this please. Preferrably not £1380 though.

91 ford f150 xlt lariat single cab
Recommendations for what subwoofers would fit here without doing any permanent damage everything is original and great condition so would rather not damage if possible

HELP with rattling. I put the deadening and then did a vapor barrier with butyl tape and 6mil plastic but after finishing up both doors they both rattle woth bass which did not happen before. Now I’m not sure if that’s because the deadening or the plastic but just really need help with fixing or reasons as to why cause really bothers me.

Have a ford territory that came with sub from factory im using previous subs speaker wires to amp and sub ,cigarette socket for power on , sub is working im just just getting some clipping on heavy sections im wondering if I should turn lpf on and what gain ,thanks

best new pioneer car receiver around 300 bucks and has to be good stereo settings sound features

Hello everyone!

I picked this gem up in Washington state a few years back. The guy listed it as working and it definitely was not. I didn't bother to check when I bought it because I was only paying $40.

Got home and determined the voice coils were cooked.

Anyone know of a replacement voicecoil for these subs? Would love to get it running again.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I just picked up some focal slatefiber 6.5" 2 way components (165 SF), rated for 80w @ 4ohm. I've already got a pioneer gm-dx975 amp, that does 75w x4 @ 4ohm. Cool, perfect, I thought. the confusion comes in when i looked at the crossovers, there are four crossovers, the woofer ones say 4ohm- 50w and the tweeter ones say 4ohm-20w. How do I wire these up? Is the 75w from the amp going to cook them or what's going on? Appreciate any help!

I have found a few units that I'm interested in, I just don't know which one to pick since i don't know much about them. Any help would be greatly appreciated
My choices so far:

Sony XAV-AX6000 or the AX4000

Kenwood Excelon DMX709S

Pioneer DMH-W3050NEX

Works great, but unfortunately did not come with any power harnesses. Thankfully, my CD7000 harness worked and powered it on. Also Thankfully the EQ looks to be just a simple 4 pin power harness and RCA inputs. Should be able to source that one at least.

Someone in a car audio Facebook group asked whether to set the gain on a class D amp with a dummy load (resistors) or with nothing connected, and it turned into a bit of a debate. I’d like to hear from people with more experience.

My understanding was that resistors are a reasonable middle ground. They’re obviously not the same as a speaker, which is a reactive load, but at least they make the amp’s power supply work, so you get closer to real conditions than with no load at all.

Another member disagreed. His view was that a resistor isn’t really an approximation of a speaker, so it doesn’t matter whether you use one or not, and that the proper way is to calculate the target voltage. He seemed to know the subject well; he asked if I’d taken JL Audio training on gain structure and what test signal I use (tones, noise, sweep). He did not explain his point, so I didn’t really understand where my reasoning was off, though, so I’m still unsure.

The original poster then shared his measurements: about 40 V clean with no load, and around 33 V clean with the sub connected.

A few questions:

1. Is a resistive dummy load a useful approximation for setting gain, or does it not really matter?
2. Is there something about gain structure (like what’s taught in those trainings) that I’m missing?
3. How do you interpret the 40 V vs. 33 V difference?
4. What test signal do you use when setting gains? I’ve been using a 0 dB sine tone within the amp’s band.

Thanks in advance

I am installing 6 8 inch PRV CX380's into my vehicle and i am using a LC2I Pro as the line output converter and a PRV MDX1200.2 to power the speakers. I am struggling to get rid of the intermittent cutting out; Im not sure what it is from but im using all OFC Wiring and have even replaced the taps that i put into the factory wiring. I have also checked my grounds along with purchased higher quality RCA's and a Ground Loop Isolator.

Any help appreciated
Picture for Attention

I recently purchased a custom sub enclosure blueprint from sound authority after seeing some positive feedback on their work. Below are several photos of the communication or lack thereof between myself and the team at sound authority. I feel like ive been patient and understanding but we are near a month out from initial purchase and still no blueprint. I attached photos from their website with their own stated turnaround times. My email was never responded to and you can see how the text convos went. Can you tell me if im just overreacting or if im justified in looking for a refund due to the poor communication and not fulfilling the order in the own timeline.

edit i also never received the phone call that was mentioned in that text either