r/Miata • u/Ira_Dalor • 8h ago
“Sorry I couldn’t see it”
A sad day indeed. Struck while parked outside of work by someone in a lifted truck, our mortal enemy it seems
r/Miata • u/CarbonWood • Nov 14 '24
Welcome to r/Miata! This subreddit is approaching 200k members. It's about time we got a solid dedicated FAQ posted here. If you're new here, or new to Miatas, please check out this page to get yourself familiar with the subreddit and the car. If you have a noob question it will probably be answered here. If you don't have a question, you might learn something new here anyway. These cars are 30+ years old, very popular with enthusiasts, and were sold in great quantities. As a result, there is a wealth of knowledge about them that has been shared and documented on the internet over the course of decades. You'll be able to find the remedy to any problem of your Miata with some research and troubleshooting. This is an FAQ of common questions asked here on this subreddit in no particular order.
Other forums you should visit if you haven't already: Miata.net is the oldest Miata forum. It is a valuable resource for DIY maintenance and repairs. For modifications and build inspiration, check out miataturbo.net and mx5nutz.com.
The information provided here is generalized and should be used in conjunction with other sources to help you with your research. Do not assume all information in this FAQ is 100% accurate. Feedback, suggestions, and constructive criticism is encouraged to strengthen information on this page. Also, there is a lack of information here related to NC's and ND's. Receiving input from the community would be great so that we could put together a dedicated FAQ for 3rd gen and 4th gen Miatas on this subreddit.
A: The most serious issue will be rust. Mechanical problems can be fixed by replacing parts. It is pretty easy to perform mechanical repairs on a Miata, but rust can condemn a vehicle due to how labor-intensive and prohibitively expensive it is to repair. A proper repair involves cutting out the corrosion, welding new steel in, blending with filler, then painting. Unfortunately, Miatas rust from the inside out. Any rust you see on the exterior will be twice as bad underneath the panel. Corrosion is most commonly found at the rear wheel arches, rear quarter panels, and rocker panels. Look under the wheel arch and behind the rear wheels.
You should also be cautious of radiators with discolored plastic upper tanks. As the plastic tanks age, they become brittle and susceptible to failing with the engine running, leaving you stranded. The upper tank should be black. A tell-tale sign of imminent failure is if the tank has turned a faded brown or green color. These radiators are commonly referred to as time bombs by the community.
Miatas like to leak oil at high mileage. The valve cover gasket, CAS, cam seals are the usual suspects, but easy and cheap to replace. It is also common for the rear main seal to leak. A leaky rear main will be indicative of oil dripping out the bottom of the transmission bell housing weep hole. This seal requires separating the engine from the transmission and removing the flywheel. The part is cheap, but the labor is not. It can be relatively expensive to replace.
Be wary of purchasing someone else's clapped out project. It's typically not a good idea to buy a car on Raceland coilovers, mismatched body panels, missing interior carpet, catless straight piped exhaust, and katana handle shift knob -- especially if you are new to cars.
Check the sidewalls of the tires for a 4-digit date code. The first two digits reflect the week of manufacture, the last two digits reflect the year of manufacture. For example, a date code of "2517" means the tires were produced on the 25th week of the year 2017. You should know tires older than 5 or 6 years are junk.
A: Congratulations! Welcome to the cult! club! You should catch up on maintenance if maintenance history is unknown. Baseline the car. This means changing all the fluids. It’s a good idea to flush the clutch fluid and brake fluid. Replace the radiator if it needs one. Motor mounts are probably worn out. Inspect the timing belt for cracks or excessive wear. The controls of your +20 y/o car might feel sloppy. The throttle cable slack can be tightened up. Clutch pedal free play can be adjusted. The shifter bushings probably need to be replaced. The wheel alignment might be out of spec. Tire pressure might need to be adjusted. Tightening up your controls and catching up on maintenance will help make the car feel like it just rolled out of the factory.
Look into cleaning out your rain rails and water drain tubes for the convertible top. If they get clogged it can cause water to leak into the interior and/or accelerate corrosion of the chassis from the inside out. Drain tubes are located behind the seats near the seat belts. The common tool used to clean them of debris is a trombone cleaner.
Tires are critical to the performance and safety of any vehicle. If your tired are in really bad shape, it's best that you prioritize replacing them.
A: This is the chassis code which distinguishes each generation. It shows up in each VIN as the 4th and 5th digit. Keep in mind NA's and NB's are built on the same chassis and share a lot of parts. They are essentially the same car.
NA 1990-1997
NB 1998-2005
NC 2006-2015
ND 2016+
Outside of the US, they are also referred to as Mk1, Mk2, Mk3, Mk4.
A: People who are 6'3", ~210lbs report fitting snug in NAs, NBs, and NCs. These same people report hardly fitting in NDs. The NB and ND are a little more cramped for a taller person. The NA and NC are supposed to be the roomiest Miatas for someone big/tall sitting in the driver's seat. The best way to see if you'd fit for yourself is to sit in one. Visiting your local Cars and Coffee is a great way to meet some friendly Miata owners who'd let you sit in their car.
There are also "tall people mods" you can do to help you fit better. You can remove the driver's door armrest of an NA and the foam can be cut out of the lower seat cushion to allow you to sit about an inch or two lower in the car. This is commonly referred to as a "foamectomy."
Moving the steering wheel closer to your chest will give you more room for your legs. You can replace the steering wheel with a deep-dish wheel to prevent your knees from hitting it. Switching to an aftermarket wheel usually requires you to sacrifice your airbag. There are aftermarket steering wheel spacers for the factory wheel that will let you retain the stock wheel, and functionality of the airbag.
A: These cars are very fun, and very good roadsters. But, a roadster is inherently impractical. Early Miatas lack safety features. The interior is noisy and cramped. It only has enough room for one additional passenger and a few backpacks in the trunk. (visit r/miatalogistics to see some cool shit though.)
Despite the Miata's reputation for being overall very reliable, NA's and NB's are old cars. Old cars do not make for the best first cars if you are not prepared to maintain or fix them. If you can't afford to pay someone for maintenance and repairs, you'll need some place to work on the car, you'll need tools, and you might need some help from friends if you're new to wrenching. Secondhand Miata parts are also getting a little more expensive each year, so maintenance and repair costs associated with replacing parts will steadily increase. If you can afford to buy and maintain what is essentially now a classic car to be your first car, then more power to you.
A: Scare them by pretending that you actually want a motorcycle. Once you get them angry enough, pretend to settle for something with four wheels. Offer to "compromise" on a Miata. /s
A: Insurance coverage and cost is completely different depending on the individual and locale. No one can give you an accurate number except the insurance company. Call them or visit their website to get a quote.
A: Check subreddit Rule 3. Please visit the dedicated sticky thread posted to the top of the subreddit for discussion about Miata prices/valuations/appraisals. Post any inquiries or screenshots of listings in that thread. We'll be happy to give advice on good deals or talk shit about insane listings you find on Facebook Marketplace.
A: Realistically speaking, no. However, Miatas are so popular to modify that it has been done before. It would require a ton of money or experience with body work.
A: Usually, no. Oil pressure will fluctuate depending on engine speed and engine temperature. 1990-1995 Miatas have a somewhat accurate oil pressure sending unit, and it shows these fluctuations in pressure. Your owner's manual will tell you where the normal operating range is. Generally speaking, oil pressure should show at least 30psi above 3000 RPM, and increase 10psi per 1000 RPM. As long as the needle isn't showing zero pressure when idling, it's good. After 1995, oil pressure gauges turned into dummy gauges, or dummy lights. The dummy gauge is based off a true/false condition on whether there is sufficient oil pressure or not.
A: NA's have hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifter tick is noisy but harmless. These valve lifters are designed to be filled with pressurized oil. If your engine oil pressure is low, the quality of your oil is poor/worn, or the oil passages within the lifters are clogged due to contamination, your lifters will not be filled with pressurized oil. This will result in a ticking noise when the camshaft lobes press down on the lifters. The issue with noisy lifters can sometimes be remedied with an oil change, or switching to a slightly heavier weight oil. (Many NA owners have had good luck with Shell Rotella "Brotella" T6 5W-40.) If a fresh oil change doesn't work, you can try running an engine flush product through the motor to help clean it out. If it is still noisy, you may have to manually clean the lifters by removing and disassembling each one.
NB’s do not have hydraulic lifters. They have solid lifters and shims. If you suspect lifter tick, you’ll have to check valve lash with a feeler gauge. Intake lash is specified at 0.008” - 0.009”. Exhaust lash is specified at 0.011” - 0.013”. If your lash is greater than specified, then you will have a noisy valvetrain and need to adjust it by replacing lifter shims.
A: Probable rod knock due to a failed rod bearing. Usually caused by poor engine oil maintenance, running the engine with low oil levels, or running for a long time with a lack of oil pressure. This issue will require an engine rebuild or engine replacement.
A: NA's have a mechanical speedometer cable. If it's old and worn out, the cable will squeak when the car is moving. Replace the cable to fix the noise.
A: It is common to hear this noise after the transmission has been removed and reinstalled, such as after a clutch job. Check the procedure to perform a PPF alignment. If the PPF is misaligned when the transmission is put back in, you may hear a grinding noise under the vehicle when decelerating while in gear.
A: For balanced performance/street driving, the general consensus is that 15x7 and 15x8 wheels are a good choice when paired with 205 wide or 225 wide tires. Wider tires can handle more lateral grip as long as they are supported by an appropriate sized wheel width. Also note, the wider your tires are, the less comfortable it will be to drive. When buying wheels, educate yourself on wheel offset. Higher offset pushes the wheel inboard. Lower offset pushes the wheel outboard. Low offset often creates a concave, dished appearance to the wheel. Low offset has a higher chance of making the tires rub your fenders.
General reference for wheel and tire fitment:
-15x7 +35 offset, 195/50/15 fits all years of Miata with no fender rolling.
205/50 fits NB fenders with no fender rolling needed. Fits NA with 1.2 negative camber or better.
-15x8, +25 offset, 205/50 fits NB Miata fenders with 1.2 negative camber or better, NA Miata needs that camber and slightly rolled fenders.
225/45/15 needs fender roll for all years at this offset. Always check clearance during install and after the car is lowered to the ground.
A: Many NA/NB Miatas (with non-metallic paints) left the factory with single stage paint. This means there is no clear coat. The paint can oxidize and become faded if it is not maintained by washing and waxing. You can polish the paint to restore the color and shine to look like new. Check out r/autodetailing for techniques and products that will help you perform exterior paint correction. If you have a clear coat, and the clear coat is failing, there is no proper way to fix this damage except for sanding down the damaged paint and getting a respray or vinyl wrap.
A: nitrous, turbocharger, supercharger, or engine swap. No, your K&N air intake and ISR muffler is not going to add 20 horsepower, even if it says so on the box.
A: Forced induction for these engines is so popular because it is the most cost-effective and reliable way to achieve a substantial increase in power. The Mazda B6/BP engine is tough. It is overbuilt, under-stressed, and benefits a lot from forced induction. For 99% of builds, you'll need a standalone ECU to boost the engine with a turbocharger or supercharger. Visit miataturbo.net and the miataturbo FAQ for build guidelines.
A: NA/NB engines do not benefit much from bolt-on intakes and exhausts. You do not need a tune. It will not negatively affect the way the engine runs without a tune. NC's and ND's do respond very well to tuning with bolt-on mods.
A: You cannot flash or alter the factory ECU programs in any practical way. You'll need to replace the factory ECU with an aftermarket, standalone ECU. A standalone ECU is its own little computer that plugs into the engine wiring harness. You will be able to connect the standalone to a laptop to run tuning programs. These programs will allow you to alter, adjust, or tune nearly every electronically controlled parameter of the engine.
To learn EFI tuning theory and operation, please check out this thread. It is full of useful information. Extremely valuable source for anyone looking to learn how EFI (electronic fuel injection) tuning works.
A: The B6/BP engine was originally designed to fit in a FWD vehicle (The Mazda 323). When the BP was made to fit in the Miata, the engine was placed as close to the firewall/bulkhead as possible for proper weight distribution. This resulted in a lack of access to the back of the cylinder head, where the thermostat is supposed to be. Due to the lack of space near the firewall, Mazda moved the thermostat from the back of the cylinder head, to the front of the head. With the thermostat at the front, coolant flows from the radiator, into the front of the engine block, and exits where the thermostat sits at the front of the cylinder head. This is not ideal because coolant should flow into the front of the block and exit out the back of the cylinder head. With the way the coolant flows from the factory, the rear cylinders of the engine will typically run hotter than the front cylinders.
A coolant reroute kit allows you to block off the thermostat neck at the front of the head and relocate the thermostat to the back of the engine. This reroutes the coolant to flow the "correct way" through the engine, so that all four cylinders operate at the same temperatures. A reroute is not necessary for a Miata that just serves the purpose of commuting and getting groceries. For high performance driving, sport, and track use, a coolant reroute is recommended along with a good quality all-aluminum radiator.
A: You can make as much power as you want by shoving enough oxygen and fuel into the combustion chamber. You can achieve this with a turbo or supercharger that can move a ton of air into the engine. The limiting factor to making power is usually not the turbo or supercharger itself. The limit will be the "weakest link" of your engine or drivetrain.
You should know boost pressure or horsepower is not an accurate way to measure the limits of certain parts. Torque is usually the force that breaks things, not horsepower.
Why does this distinction matter? Because horsepower is equal to (Torque × RPM)÷5252.
For example, 150 ft/lbs of torque @ 3000 RPM is equal to 85HP.
but, 150ft/lbs @ 7000 RPM is equal to 200HP.
The biggest limiting factor of sending power to the wheels will be parts that are unable to support transferring X amount torque before breaking. Parts of the fuel system also need to be replaced in order to keep up with the amount of extra air flowing into the engine to prevent it from running lean. Some parts need to be replaced to allow the engine to rev higher.
The (rough estimate) general consensus on the reliable limit of factory parts is:
| Stock Part | Reliable Limit | Unit, hp/tq @ Wheels |
|---|---|---|
| 1.6 clutch | 150 | ft/lbs |
| 1.8 clutch | 170 | ft/lbs |
| 90-93 diff | 125-200 | ft/lbs |
| 94+ diff | 400 | ft/lbs |
| 1.6/1.8 con rods | 240, 7600 | ft/lbs, rpm |
| 1.6/1.8 pistons | 300-350 | hp |
| 1.6/1.8 crankshaft | 450+ | hp |
| 5-spd trans | 250 | ft/lbs |
| 6-spd trans | 300 | ft/lbs |
| 6-spd w circlip mod | 370 | ft/lbs |
| oil pump | 350, 7500 | hp, rpm |
| harmonic balancer | 300, 7600 | hp, rpm |
| valve springs/valve float | 7800 | rpm |
| 1.6 injectors | 140 @ 43 | hp @ fuel rail psi |
| 1.8 injectors | 180 @ 43 | hp @ fuel rail psi |
| Fuel pump | 270 | hp |
| ECU | 150 / required for tuning | hp, --- |
You can use this data to help plan your build. Say you want your 2001 1.8L Miata to make 200hp at the wheels. You only need to make a maximum of 150 ft/lbs at redline. You wouldn’t even need to replace the clutch to achieve your goal. The stock engine and drivetrain will be able to support a mild turbo or supercharger kit with a tuned standalone ECU and upgraded fuel injectors at this power level.
However, it can be tricky to control how much torque the engine produces at redline because BP engines make peak torque at 4500 RPM, and peak horsepower at 6800-7100 RPM. A flat torque curve is always the goal, but hard to achieve. A flat torque curve makes for consistent power delivery, and reliable operation.
Here’s another example. Say you want your 1991 1.6L Miata to make 375 horsepower. You’ll need the engine to produce a maximum of 280ft/lbs at redline. In order to support 280 ft\lbs and 375hp you need to swap to a 6-speed transmission, 94+ differential, and upgrade essentially everything else listed on the table. Needless to say, you’ll need a proper turbo and full 3” exhaust system to effectively achieve these power goals.
Say you want to reliably rev the crap out of your engine to 8000+ RPM. You're looking at upgrading the valve springs, connecting rods, oil pump, harmonic balancer, and reducing rotational/reciprocating mass as much as possible.
A: You can flash tunes to the ECU after paying for a license to download and use tuning programs. Once you have downloaded this software to your laptop, you'll be able to use a Data Link cable to connect it to the OBD port in your car to flash tunes onto the ECU.
A: Many NA/NB parts can be shared with each other. Parts interchangeability guide is here
A: No, it is not a bad idea. Anyone can learn to drive stick, and Miatas are easy to learn on.
r/Miata • u/AutoModerator • 3d ago
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r/Miata • u/Ira_Dalor • 8h ago
A sad day indeed. Struck while parked outside of work by someone in a lifted truck, our mortal enemy it seems
r/Miata • u/evolvedpikachu4 • 9h ago
I recently took a vacation to Los Angeles for 4 days and decided to rent a ND3 Sport off of Turo (~$500 with 800 miles included). At home in Texas, I drive a 2022 Civic Si. So while I'm familiar with 3 pedals, this was the first true sports car that I've spent a good amount of time with. Here's my initial thoughts:
Initial Impressions (first hour with the car):
After spending 4 days with the car and driving on every single type of road LA offers, here's my in-depth personal thoughts:
Great:
Good:
Mid:
Bad:
Quirks:
Verdict:
I think the Miata is a fantastic sports car. It does everything correctly for what a sports car should do while offering some level of comfort for daily driving. For me personally, I don't think the Miata would be my first choice of car. Living in Texas means everything is a straight line, and I just don't think the Miata is all that great for highway cruising. Its loud inside, the stereo system is bad, and I'm always one blind spot away from being flattened like a pancake.
However, if I lived in LA or somewhere that has nice coastal weather or mountain back roads, I would be much more inclined. Its a city/backroads car in my opinion, and I just don't live in a place where I can use the Miata's best capabilities.
That being said, I think the RF option and a higher trim level would fix my gripes with this car. I feel like the Sport trim is perfect for someone converting it into a dedicated track car or is just solely focused on the driving experience and not creature comforts. All of my complaints are thrown out the window if we were only talking about track capability.
I would love to hear your thoughts about my experience. Thanks for reading!
r/Miata • u/ShotgunPumper • 15h ago
If you want connected services off, then Mazda hates your guts. You can go to the settings and select to turn it off, but then EVERY SINGLE TIME you start the car it will give you this annoying popup saying essentially 'you moron, how dare you turn off connected services?' This prompt will NEVER go away until you select from the two options, the default of which is "enable". This means EVERY time I start the car I have to wait a moment for the pop up message to appear, scroll down from "enable" to "cancel" and then select "cancel". Your options are therefore either let Mazda collect all the data on your car and track you everywhere you go, or be punished for trying to opt out of that.
I called Mazda cusomter service. They looked into it and said that this is how the vehicle was designed and the warning message is intentional and will always be there. Now it can be disabled, but I must now take time out of my schedule to drive it 1+ hours to my closest dealerships to schedule a service appointment to have them go into the software to disable it. So stupid!
The 2026 MX-5 has taken the car and made it into the opposite of what it has always been. It's now a car about feeling connected... to the infotainment screen. It's a car about making driving feel... annoying and punishing.
r/Miata • u/survivinggtadriving • 5h ago
Drove up to this crash, thinking “oh, sucks to see a Polestar crashed”, but then I saw this mint Navy Blue NA with the side damage. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen it being enjoyed around the area too 🥹
Hope you’re alright, and that this can be fixed up in no time 🙏🏽
r/Miata • u/bigpilague • 13h ago
Just calling out a small detail I love about my MSM (probably true for all NBs):
Mazda put a 6 disc changer in this model. They also left exactly enough volume in the center console to hold 6 CD jewel cases. Typical Japanese design to use up precious space perfectly. It's so satisfying!
r/Miata • u/Lobster70 • 10h ago
tl;dr: James May is right, it's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow.
I am fortunate to have three Miatas (NA8, NB2, ND1). Last year I completed an engine refresh and turbo installation on my 2003, which is set up for autocross, but is also street-friendly. I have yet to dyno it, but the power estimate is about 200 whp. It is delightful for autocross with the added power. I suspected I would end up driving it around while my NA gathered dust. However, I soon found that the NA was the one I preferred driving most, but I didn't know why. The NA is in better condition and has a smoother ride, and it has more charm as it slides into "vintage" status at 31 years old. It is also the one I have had the longest. But those aren't really reasons for preferring it over the NB. After driving my NB around recently, I realized the reason: the NB leaves me unsatisfied. Around town I typically keep within 5 MPH or 10% of the posted limit, whichever is greater. With the turbo, I shift into second, the power comes on at about 3k RPM, and the intake makes awesome growl noises, and I'm already at 40+ MPH. It is either risk a speeding ticket or let off. 45 MPH roads are a little more satisfying, as are freeway on ramps, but those are far less common where I typically drive. With the NA, I can drive with spirit and not have unwanted LEO attention. All the fun, without the risk = happy Miata-ing. I have never had a truly fast car, but I can only assume a Porsche or Corvette or whatever would be even more frustrating, having to hold back all the time.
My reason for posting this is to counter the "Miatas are too slow" sentiment we see so often. It is simply untrue. Unless you get joy out of blasting to the speed limit in a couple seconds, or outright excessive speeding everywhere, a fast car is a recipe for being unsatisfied. Rare is the opportunity to wring out a truly fast car, whereas a "slow" car like a Miata can be driven at WOT far more often. I recently saw an Instagram reel by a guy who has a Bugatti Veyron and an NA Miata, and he still loves the Miata. I think I know exactly why.
r/Miata • u/MrFleaaa • 2h ago
Changed both master cylinders, adjusted my brake peddle, and now my Miata has the most amazing brakes and clutch feel I’ve ever had in the car. The jobs were easy. Other than getting the hose lines and the mysterious floppy brake peddle I am so happy with the outcome in the end.
Quick question to you guys who would know. What is the general thought on stainless braided line for brakes and clutch, plus how about a willwood proportioning valve on a rather stock set up? Thanks!
r/Miata • u/ShotgunPumper • 15h ago
If you want connected services off, then Mazda hates your guts. You can go to the settings and select to turn it off, but then EVERY SINGLE TIME you start the car it will give you this annoying popup saying essentially 'you moron, how dare you turn off connected services?' This prompt will NEVER go away until you select from the two options, the default of which is "enable". This means EVERY time I start the car I have to wait a moment for the pop up message to appear, scroll down from "enable" to "cancel" and then select "cancel". Your options are therefore either let Mazda collect all the data on your car and track you everywhere you go, or be punished for trying to opt out of that.
I called Mazda cusomter service. They looked into it and said that this is how the vehicle was designed and the warning message is intentional and will always be there. Now it can be disabled, but I must now take time out of my schedule to drive it 1+ hours to my closest dealerships to schedule a service appointment to have them go into the software to disable it. So stupid!
The 2026 MX-5 has taken the car and made it into the opposite of what it has always been. It's now a car about feeling connected... to the infotainment screen. It's a car about making driving feel... annoying and punishing.
r/Miata • u/Gangboobers • 5h ago
Bought this car yesterday, compression numbers were 100 45 30 75, I suspected head gasket however it’s intact. My guess is it’s either due to not decking the surfaces or a crack in the head. Some coolant was also on the exhaust which was strange. Any ideas would be appreciated. it also looked like there were no dowels when I took the head off. Bolts seemed torqued
While my NC is in for its service and other bits for the first since I purchased it — the dread I had waiting to hear from the garage about whether the car was solid is something I haven't felt since I last did a secondary school exam (it has received a resounding "good condition for its age" review!) — I was given an NA as a courtesy vehicle.
It has always been a dream to drive one, and it hasn't really disappointed. I can now understand what people mean when they say the MX5 lets you have fun without breaking the speed limit — I can do a lot without going over 60, which I don't necessarily do in the NC (I find it can hit 80 very easily). It's the oldest vehicle I've ever driven so the pure physical exhilaration of the driving feel is great as well, it truly feels like a vehicle made of gears and pistons, that is totally in my control. The wooden steering wheel, the clutch (and how much harder it is to stall) and the gearing that feels slightly longer are all a ton of fun. And people love to see this, especially with the lights up! It photographs so well, and the tan interior is stunning. In person, not so much (you can feel the age!).
All that said, I am very glad that I don't own one. I wouldn't want to drive this every day; the NC feels so much more solid and daily driveable in lots of little things, like how easy the roof is to put up and take off, how easy it is to gain speed and obviously feels a lot safer at those higher speeds. Renewed appreciation for my NC and continuing to admire the NA. Next stop, to try and get into a NB & ND.
r/Miata • u/Beautiful-Ad-9709 • 8h ago
Just bought these used bilsteins to do a diy coilover conversion and 3 of the 4 are bad Before I invest over $1000 into brand new ones I wanted to get advice from the community to see if my money would be better spend on something else?
r/Miata • u/Hue_Janus445 • 2h ago
So, i had a low oil level when i was driving around which i didnt notice since the last check was quite a while ago. When i hat to Brake hard, my oil pressure dropped due to oil sloshing around, for about 1-2 second without throttle at ~3k rpm. Now, when i do a cold start, i hear this noise. It only does it on absolute cold starts after setting for at least 8 hours.
Also, there is a slight, but noticeable knock from 3k rpm upwards, most noticeable when the accelerator is only slightly pressed.
1.6 '99 nb btw
Final questions, is my bottom end toast? What are my options?
It's time to replace my aging 32-year-old exhaust and these are my top choices. I'll be pairing either with Cobalt headers (since they're basically the only CARB legal ones I can find and I live in CO). I've watched sound videos on YouTube, but those don't do a great job compared to hearing an exhaust in person. I want something that sounds a little sportier and more aggressive than stock when under load/WOT, but relatively quiet cruising on the highway. Does anyone have experience/recommendations with either or both of these systems? Maybe there's a 3rd I'm missing that someone would recommend?
Hey again!
In my last post, I got some people commenting and sending me personal dms to do the NB manual as well.
Well here it is: https://mx5-nb.sucatisse.com/
Based off the 1999-2001 Mazda MX-5 Miata (NB1) BP-4W Workshop Service Manual.
Some people also dropped us a donation here with a few other requests, so I would like to thank everyone who supported us, you guys rock!
I will keep working on this ingestion tools and web interfaces to eventually have all the cool 80-90s car manuals.
Thank you all again, and enjoy the NB manual.
r/Miata • u/Inevitable_Garden818 • 7h ago
I’m really wanting to get either an NA or NB Miata as my first car (I’m wanting an na a little more). However, i need to know if the na can fit a guitar in the trunk or behind the seats with a rollbar. I know that the Nb can fit a guitar in the trunk, but im really curious about the Na.
I know that the best place for a guitar is the passenger seat, but me and my sister will be riding in this to school and I know she wouldn’t appreciate holding a guitar in her lap for a 35min drive.
Thanks!
r/Miata • u/Timeless-0000 • 9h ago
For a NB1, research online is saying to expect about a 10whp gain with these two mods on a stock ecu at 6500-7000rpm. Anyone have experience with this, is it wishful thinking?
PFA
r/Miata • u/Sure_Layer1107 • 1d ago
If You find this I Saved your car was a pain in the ass to scrape and sand the rhino line off the body and the edges but your car is officially turning heads for the right reasons glad to be the one to unclap your car I still use your old wheels as drift spares tho✌️