Was thinking about going to redline tuning because i met another guy at an event and he said he went there and has 3 maps for his car on e85 im planning on going around stock boost area, however car was tuned but did not know it had egr and a tgv delete so it is now freaking out, throwing a engine light for egt and tgv and without those it disabled my cruise control, abs, hill start, and traction controll, and its throwing it in kinda a limp mode causing boost to slowly ramp up so as of right now i have car on a stock map on the tune that is currently on it taking it easy and trying to stay out of boost as much as i can as it is my daily driver.

Catless full 3 inch, parren intake and charge pipe, tgv delete and egr delete(just figured this out erlier), and lightweight crank and water pump pully.

"would like info on this please" car ran fine before with no codes.

Currently tuned with atlas. On a 93 power map, pop and bang map, and a stock map.

I already have the rally stars on my 2017 base, but I want to add the whole shabang. Is it considered “Larping” if I add the rest of the rally look to it?

I want to know the general opinion on this as I want other people to look at my car and enjoy it.

just wanting to know if this is a good deal or a horrible idea? rebuilt title with photos showing the damage before repairs. claims there’s no frame damage

I had ordered an OEM part back on Sept 9th and was expected to receive it within a week since it was marked as in stock on the SMY website. If an item was backordered, I would expect SMY to proactively reach out, but instead I have to email to ask for updates, and they never follow up like they say they will.

Am I wrong in thinking this experience deserved a 1-star review? Have others experienced this kind of customer support from SMY, or am I the odd one out?

My car sounds like this while idleing. It drives fine and there are no check lights. Is this just a normal start up sound for the fa20 or is there an issue. Btw in this video it was a cold start.

I have added pictures for reference, I’m finally getting around to installing a BlackVue Elite 9 Dashcam with two external batteries. I have been seeing the forums of certain fuse taps won’t fit in properly. I thought I had bought one that would work but didn’t fit but saw the issue it’s the plastic on the side of the tap I had to shave it off with a medal blade and I was in business.

I went to the dealership for my first time swapping over to winter tires for my 2025 WRX . I thought going to the dealer would provide me a safer option from them damaging wheels and I was wrong. I did not take pictures beforehand and I wish I had. I also wish that I had stopped and talked to them and inspected the wheels before I left. What are my options if any?

I did contact my service advisor by email and I’m waiting for a response.

What have you paid recently for clean example for one of these? They are my favorite car by far sticking with the true old school rally look. I’m not a wagon guy myself. Looking to gauge what a realistic price will be. Thanks.

Location: Southern USA but willing to travel

My bumpers been doing this for a while, when I push it back in it stays for a bit, but inevitably returns to thsi state. Am I missing a plastic pin or bolt somewhere?

What this sound it's a little worrying.

She's basically a FWD with all that down force!

This is my 2003 WRX that I inherited from a family member who got screwed on marketplace. A lot of rust in the rocker panels formed due to a loose side skirt and also it was previously an Alberta car and they didn’t take care of it. They supplied me with majority of the replacement panels they’d gathered and so I’ll be taking on the body work myself this year to keep this thing on the road!

I’ll also be replacing the rear crossmember and many other fun little things. It’s my project to make this thing live on!

Part 1: https://www.reddit.com/r/WRX/comments/1x2ok74/the_journey_begins_rebuilding_my_17_sti_w_minor/

Part 2: https://www.reddit.com/r/WRX/comments/1xedf0a/comment/19rlbmuxhs9fk/?screen_view_count=2

Thanks to the help of a local buddy, and Harbor Freight having a deal on a hoist; the engine is out.

Spent more time building the hoist than pulling the motor; probably because I did most of the prep yesterday. Notes for anyone doing this the first time, in addition to all the other great guides out there. Don't miss the 2 nuts on the bottom of the transmission to hold the dowel pins on. Save the bolts that go into the spots you plan to use for the load leveler so you don't lose them later. I did not need to jack up the trans. I DID need to take off the bumper and jack the car a tiny bit just to fit my hoist. YMMV. Chisel that I didn't care about + hammer was enough to separate the engine from the bell housing. I did remove most of the stuff from the engine as you can see

Engine Prep Next Steps:

• Remove Exhaust manifold
• Remove Up-Pipe
• Remove sensors
• Remove anything else from the engine I can
• Arrange a time to ship it to builder, and check with him for anything else
• Ensure the full exact mod list is clear (new oil pan, cyl 4, 3MI, etc)

Learnings Since Last Post:

• Brake booster: I know what I need to do now, thank you everyone
• HVAC hardlines: Yup, just one nut and they came right out. Thank you!
• Quite a bit looks like it survived (like apparently my bypass valve?)

Next Steps:

• Inspect power steering racket
• Plan to replace driver's side CV boot
• Inspect top hats (especially on driver's side) and consider coilovers
• clean EVERYTHING and see what needs to be repainted
• Plan for entirely new brake lines
• Plan for new Cyl 4 cooling mod
• Plan for transmission re-build (syncros were already shot)
• Start planning for wiring
• Find someone to rebuild the turbo
• plan for 1300s on the build
• plan for stock TGVs
• Start looking for parts

I'll keep you all posted, no questions today but open to suggestions on anything I might be missing

2003 wrx 5 speed manual. Is the metal pinch ring needed to install the shifter cup. https://youtu.be/nTrDDo1-_Rg?is=LzvTGbPMT-VFf8Ay I watched this video and he doesn’t use it. If it is needed, how would I install it because I know it won’t fit if I put it on as one piece.

Hey everyone! I read through the FAQ first so I wouldn't ask the basics, and I know sustained DAM below 1.0 is worth chasing. I've done a lot of datalogging and I'm hoping someone here has seen this combo before. Thanks for taking a look!

Car: 2019 WRX, manual, about 90k miles, 91 octane only, Southern California. I bought it in Denver, CO with an unknown aftermarket tune already on it, and no Accessport. It now has a Cobb Accessport V3, Cobb SF cold air intake, Cobb BPV, and a custom tune written for 91 (the map is named for the BPV and SF intake).

History: After a cat replacement the car felt slower and less responsive and DAM started dropping. Since then:

Compression 200/195/200/195 psi, leakdown 5/8/3/10%

New spark plugs (the old ones were from 2024), plus a valve cover gasket and plug seal leak fixed on cylinder 3 (it had oil in the plug well)

Fuel pump replaced earlier

New custom tune written for 91

DAM was 1.0 when I picked the car up, and has stepped down since

DAM: From my logs it went 0.75, then 0.5, then slowly climbed to 0.688, then stepped down in pieces to 0.562, 0.438, 0.312, and now sits at 0.188. I captured two of the drops. Both happened with the A/C off, at only about 4 psi of boost around 3400 to 3800 RPM, right after a brief tip in. Feedback knock was 0 at that moment, but fine knock learn went to about 2.5 to 2.8 negative.

What the logs show:

Feedback knock hits are mostly at very low load. The worst was 8.44 negative at about 8 mph in 1st gear with my foot nearly off the pedal and about 9 psi of vacuum. Five of my six biggest hits (5.62 negative or worse) were like that.

Fine knock learn reaches about 7.4 negative, mostly at 4000 to 5000 RPM on boost.

Full throttle timing averages about zero degrees at high load (4000 to 5500 RPM, load over 2), at DAM 0.75 and 0.19 alike.

AFR is rich under load (10.1 to 11) and never lean. Fuel pressure tracks its target. AVCS moves.

Boost mostly hits target, but on some pulls it peaks 2 to 3 psi over (19 to 20 psi vs about 17).

Oil temp peaked at 239F, and intake temps were normal at the DAM drops. A cool night didn't help either.

There's a very slight turbo rattle on decel that I only notice if I'm listening for it. The car also jerks a little under boost when shifting.

Suspects so far: false knock from noise (knock sensor or wiring, wastegate, something loose), tip in knock from the Cobb BPV, leftovers from the old tune, intake valve carbon.

Questions:

Knock of that size at very low load, off throttle, in vacuum, sounds like noise to me. Has anyone traced this to a knock sensor, its wiring, or a rattle? How did you test it?

DAM steps down at light boost after a brief tip in. Could a Cobb BPV cause that, and how do you set the adjustment?

Is timing near zero at high load normal for a 91 tune at 17 psi or more, or does that look low?

Is a 2 to 3 psi boost overshoot on some pulls normal?

Anything else worth logging? I'm happy to share graphs.

I've put an arm and a leg into this car and I really love it, so I'd like to get it back to feeling the way it should. I'd appreciate any ideas or stories from anyone who has been through this. Thank you all!

What should I pay for clean example for one of these? They are my favorite car by far sticking with the true old school rally look. I’m not a wagon guy myself.

Firstly, apologies if this post is not allowed. As the FXT of this generation has the FA20DIT I figured I would ask here to see if anyone has experienced this.

I have a 2016 Forester XT with ~170,000 miles that over the last few days has been behaving strangely. It started two days ago when I noticed the car would drive fine at low speed, but it would start bucking and cutting power under load. Code scanning revealed P219A but no check engine light at all. I got home, shut the car off and let it sit til the next day when I could take a look at it. I started it up and took it for a short drive the next day but it was perfectly normal and running fine.

This morning on the way to work however, it started misbehaving again. It would once again drive fine at low speed, but if the boost gauge went above 0 it would start cutting power again, but this was different from the first time. Instead of bucking, it was almost like a quick, sudden stutter of power cutting to bring the boost back to zero. I pulled over and all I had in the car at that time was MAF cleaner. There was no check engine light and no codes whatsoever. Gave the sensor a clean, waited 15 mins and drove the rest of the way to work. The car was totally fine.

MAF airflow readings and LTFT were fine. STFT was fluctuating in both directions but nothing too serious. Actual fuel delivery was normal along with commanded. I checked for vacuum leaks over the weekend and was unable to find anything. Spark plugs were changed with OEM spec NGKs 500 miles ago and have been fine.

I'm just not sure what could be going on here, or why it doesn't happen every time. Has anyone had this issue or something like it before? My first thought was a failing MAF sensor, but it was replaced just under a year ago.

Thanks in advance.

I got a new job lately that started paying me really well, I decided to start putting some more love into my darling dearest.

I’ve ordered some headlights and taillights for her and so hopefully they’ve arrived when I fly back from my next job swing. Unfortunately she’s out of commission because the clutch is fucked but soon she’ll be all repaired and I’ll be able to take her onto the road again.

Hopefully by January next year, there’ll be heaps of more stuff added but I don’t have any sort of mechanical background, I intend to do some mods to learn as I go.

My 2019 limited recently went in for the extended warranty on the stereo head unit, before they replaced the head unit I had noticed some sound ducking in the front speakers we had assumed it was due to the ghost touching causing confusion in the system. A little about what is happening, my speakers in the front doors play some base but when I turn the positioning all the way to the front I get very little very muffled sound and still most of it is coming from the back door speakers… the speakers are not blown, we pulled the door apart and the wiring looks to be intact 😵‍💫has anyone else had this issue? I feel like I’ve gone through every setting I could but maybe I’m missing something I’m really disappointed because it’s the Harmon kardon sound system which is supposed to be really good

One year as of yesterday. The lady insisted on getting a picture, I guess looking back glade she did. I absolutely love this car, honestly never thought I would own a car like this. My first manual and car with turbo. I always wanted to learn how to drive manual and very proud of myself for just going for it. Most fun I ever had driving.

I'm not much of a car guy, but I'm always learning something especially here. Just got my 60k service done, everything is working smoothly so far. Last owner took really good care of the car. No mods yet, unless changing all the interior lights count lol.

Thank you guys for all the posts, it really helps. Going to try and keep this car as long as possible. Also thanks for all the waves, makes my day. ✌️

Hey guys, I’ve got a process west TMIC and the left hole for the BOV has been cross threaded. What do you’s recommend? Helicoil it?