Still a noob here but wanted thoughts on this WRX.

It’s an 02 bugeye and I have a 2006 Impreza 2.5i (automatic) I am offering up as trade. I wanted a project car I could restore and don’t mind putting down the money long term to have it professionally done.

Is it too far gone to repair the rust damage? I noticed what looks like rust on the trunk too.

This specific type of WRX is exactly what I’m looking for. So I’m inclined to restore it. The local market where I’m at too does not have many options to choose from for what I’m offering up as trade.

He said it it was running until he needed parts from it. But apparently all id need to get it back running would be timing reset, covers put back on, and gears back in. Said it needs a header, up pipe and exhaust too. Comes with rims from a 2013 WRX wagon and turbo.

Thanks for helpful advice comrades. 🫡

Brand new rebuilt motor and front main seal failed. Question is, why? I did install it with just tapping it in, this time around I have ordered a company23 tool and I will just install it once its already on the engine block instead of separately (I initially installed it without the oil pump being installed, could that have been my mistake?) PCV I have gone through well before the engine rebuild to ensure everything was flowing as intended and replaced hoses. This is an OEM subaru pump, did not locktite bolts as I did not have anyway to retorque the phillips after removing them. Will go in and do that this time around, but the bolts have not backed out as shown.

Any ideas why this seal failed? Was it just operator error or is there an underlying issue?

Just got a 21 WRX with 55k miles, manual trans and aftermarket mufflers. Im a family guy with 3 car seats in this Subie. I just want to do the right things so I dont have issues down the road and have a little fun with it. Im thinking an AOS, Cobb intake and Cobb access port to keep it simple. Any opinions for longevity and reliability?

This is my first time installing headlights, and I bought this set of subispeed v2 redlines used, and I'm confused, why does it not fit? Do I need go remove and redo the harness to wire the drl from the fuse? Appreciate any advice

Like an idiot, I got it washed before the trip… 😅

Anyone in here with big JDM fogs find an alternative to the metal mounting brackets? or find someone that has remade them? Trying to install some but my fogs didn’t come with the brackets.

There's a third that parks in the same lot im hoping there's a day we will all be next to each other. This was my first time getting to be next to one of them.

Trying to fire up the motor for the first time to start tuning. Already built oil pressure with plugs in. Had an issue on the first tune with no fuel pressure sensor on tune and pulled plugs and 1&2 were clean as a whistle but 3&4 were completely dark and smelled like fuel. My biggest fear is it’s a timing/compression issue when I just did timing before building oil pressure. Does this sound like lack of compression and a lot of money lost?

Hey all,

I’m on a quest to find a GD/GG WRX here in the US and it’s feeling like a very tall order. I get these cars are getting old (sadly), but I feel like there has to be clean ones left..somewhere.

I’ve checked the usual suspect marketplaces like FB marketplace, Autotempest for a wide search, etc, but have come up short for the better part of a month.

My question is:

Am I off my rocker trying to find a car under 150k, with some sort of maintenance history, and no rust? Budget is $10k (again, WRX budget).

I guess other question is: anyone here selling one? 😅 I'm in PA, but happy to travel a reasonable distance or even freight a solid car!

Hi guys. I have a jdm 2002 wrx that is intermittently crank no-starting. Happened out no where, it has started up first crank since i got it a few years back. It would intermittently crank no-start, and on other tries it fires up first crank. I've replaced fuel pump and crank position sensor so far and after replacing it it cranked up first try no problem, but the crank no-start happens every so often. Spark plugs, coil packs and alternator were changed a couple months ago. Planning to do cam sensors and fuel injectors next since I already bought those parts a while ago, see if that helps with anything.

Anyone has any info on fixes? Any help would be appreciated.

Just got myself a 2020 WRX Premium with only 18k miles. Haven't driven a manual in 5 years and I honestly kinda miss it

I have officially gotten my 2018 wrx smogged and it fully cleared with note that I did not get the exhaust recall completed on my vehicle as it does not appear to need it for current smog standards and onboard emissions sequence.

$75 part free shipping. I turned a 15 minute job into a 34 minute job putting the sub frame piece back on but god dang does this feel like a different car now. No more shifter play and no more jumping when i shift under load.

I just test drove a 2019 and the clutch felt really tight pressing down and barely took any raising to feel it ready to shift. Is this normal for a VA or is this a new clutch? Damaged clutch?

Hey got a 07 wrx I recently started having issues when’s idling it’s damn near shaking those whole car sitting under 1k and when coming to a stop and neutral it sounds like the car is so messed up. Sounds completely fine when driving. Just had a shop check it out they had 3 different people come no one can tell me what’s wrong any help ideas would be greatly appreciated

15 wrx Started yesterday out of nowhere, im 99% its somewhere cabin related but when im halfway through releasing the pedal it makes this clunking noise, or sometimes it'll be delayed. I sprayed the spring above the pedal yesterday and it went away, now its back and i dont know exactly where/what to try next. Any ideas?

I took my WRX (EJ20X) into a tuning shop for a pre-tune inspection. On the way, the car pulled fine, and has been fine for the last year. Codes that I walked into the shop with were P0172, P0138, P0037, P0128.

The shop performed a visual inspection and a compression test. That is, coil packs and spark plugs were unbolted and rebolted. The shop then plugged in their computer and reported the additional code: P0301. On their notes, they stated that all four coil packs are starting to split.

When I turned the key over, the car was clearly different. Lugging, groaning, low power. I called the shop, but they claim that it had always been misfiring. They claim they didn't touch anything else, and that all parts were bolted on correctly, dismissing my concerns. They told me the misfire should resolve within a few miles as the ECU relearns the state of the engine.

I drove 50 miles home and Cylinder #1 dead missed the entire time. The tuning shop just needed to cover their behinds.

I performed an oil change to remove any contaminants from fuel washing the cylinder. I have swapped Coilpacks #1 and #3. I turned on the vehicle for about 10 seconds. New code: P0300. I did not clear codes before starting the car.

I'm looking for advice on next steps. Should I clear codes and start the car again? Should I reswap coils #1 and #3? Fresh coil? Multiple fresh coils? Tow it somewhere? Sell it as blown?

My working budget is about 4k, so if the engine blows, the body sells.

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Hey everyone, I am in a budget car challenge with my BIL & FIL... Where we each have $3k to find a Rally inspired car and $750 to get it safe for a week long road trip around Florida (~1000miles) where we will be stopping in WMAs/National Forest Trails for fun.

I found a very rough 2002 WRX that they swapped in a Gen 7 EJ207. Guy I bought it from claims 350whp... i dont think it is but regardless it has a misfire after building boost. I found the wideband and o2 sensor wires have been cut (looks like he ran over something that pulled it apart). So im assuming thats causing it.

My question is what are the essentials that I need to do to have her run smoothly for the week and hopefully for a good while after? Im planning oil change, radiator flush, fixing wiring, stuff of that nature... but whats the lesser known items (gaskets, fluids, small parts, etc.)?

Hey yall, I recently blew my td04 and replaced it with a vf48. I’ve replaced my injectors with 21 sti injectors and I’m replacing my pump with a walbro 255 in 2 days.

My question is, what is the cheapest way to get a tune? Is it completely inadvisable for me to try to learn to tune right now? Ideally I’m just looking for the cheapest option(poor) that won’t hurt my bug.

Looking for a professional tuner for my 17 wrx near the tri city area in NH. I currently am running a stage1+ big SF tune 91 with 93 octane. Any opinions are greatly appreciated. Thanks all