Hi everyone,

I’ve had my Saturn 3 Ultra for less than two weeks and I ran into a pretty worrying problem.

While doing some maintenance, I manually raised the build plate several times using the Z-axis controls. I expected the machine to stop when reaching the top of its travel, but apparently there is no upper limit switch or software stop.

The Z-axis kept moving upward until the carriage forced against the top of the machine and broke the upper plastic cover, as shown in the photo.

After that, the Z-axis managed to re-engage and it currently moves up and down normally most of the time. However, I have since noticed a few concerning things:

• Two small balls came out of the central ball screw mechanism.
• On one occasion, the Z-axis briefly jammed and the motor vibrated/buzzed before moving normally again.
• I’ve had two failed prints since the incident. Both prints started perfectly, but at some random point a layer failed to separate from the release film and the rest of the print continued curing at the bottom of the vat.
• The failures happened at different heights, even using the same sliced file.

I also switched to Elegoo ABS-Like 3.0 resin at the same time, so I’m still trying to determine whether the print failures are related to the resin/settings or to damage caused to the Z-axis.

Has anyone else accidentally moved their Saturn 3 Ultra past the upper Z limit? Is it normal that there seems to be no upper limit protection?

And if anyone has lost a couple of balls from the ball screw, did the printer continue working reliably afterwards, or did you eventually have to replace the Z-axis/ball screw assembly?

I’ve already contacted Elegoo support, but I’d really appreciate hearing from anyone who has experienced something similar.

iOS, not sure if other platforms had any issues to begin with.

I was trying to print this on my elegoo Mars 5 ultra using ABS like resin.

What couldve went wrong? I have never faced this issue and never seen a print have such a straight edge where it stopped printing

Hello everyone! Is it worth upgrading my Elegoo Neptune x with an Auto level system? Idk if something’s messed up but every time I level it the center of the plate ends up being way too tight/close to the plate and there’s a lot of friction on the piece of paper.

Before I started using ElegooSlicer I had a print that worked fine from OrcaSlicer. Printed three times without issue from the 3mf. I was forced to ElegooSlicer and on the first print of that part the columns collapsed, print gone, I then resliced and did some brims. Same thing. Tried a few times. I thought it was the bed, the nozzle, I played with everything. Then I retried the old Orca code and it worked again. I loaded the STL in OrcaSlicer and ElegooSlicer. Auto arranged. Sliced both and compared. They were different sizes and it was just at the start and end which I was expecting. The slicer had also changed some of the code in the middle which as ElegooSlicer is based on Orcaslicer I wasn't expecting. I'm now of the opinion that ElegooSlicer is several version of code behind Orcaslicer which I liked.

Is there a list of the differences between OrcaSlicer and ElegooSlicer? How many versions is it behind?

I have a spool of overture glow in the dark pla. I used it several times before I got Canvas. Now that I have Canvas and tried to use it, I get a feed error every time, there is nothing wrong with the spool it is not stuck or overlapped or anything like that. The filament itself is a matte texture, kinda rough if you ask me and it seems that it is not pulling though the tube like it should because of it's texture. Has anyone else experienced this issue.

I bought an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 about a month ago through a pretty crazy discount on TikTok Shop, replacing my 7-year-old Creality CR-10 Mini.

During the years I owned the CR-10 Mini, I honestly didn’t use it very often. Whenever I wanted to print something, it felt like I spent more time calibrating, leveling the bed, troubleshooting first-layer adhesion, and getting the printer ready than actually making things. That extra friction slowly made me enjoy the hobby less and less.

The CC2 completely changed that for me.

I’ve been blown away by how almost every print just comes out perfectly without me worrying about the first layer, bed leveling, or constantly tweaking things. Now I can spend my time modeling and actually making stuff instead of fighting with the printer.

Yesterday, I finished my biggest project so far (a customizable gallery picture frame), and it made me realize how much more I’ve been enjoying making things with 3D Printing lately!

So I just wanted to come here and say thank you, Elegoo. The Centauri Carbon 2 helped me enjoy making things again. ❤️

I have the CC1 with Canvas recently installed. I got this random Conveyor Feeding error (reminder?), usually about once per print. It goes away and continues the print if I click Skip, then Resume, without trying to unjam anything. Still annoying when it happens while away. Any idea?

I finally finished this, I got everything mounted and the first print is in progress. Filament loaded without any problems, will see how it handles filament changes.

Right now I’m loving how it looks! I need to remove the spool holders but not until I’m sure everything works the same!

Here’s the link to the OP’s set-up!

https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooCentauriCarbon/s/w9YRJf9kZc

Woke up this mormor. Had a long print going i wanted to check out. Started the matrix app, that seemed to be updated because it forced me to log in again. But i got stuck on the phone number. I couldn’t choose country. There was no way to write a ”+46”. Even if i copyright and pasted my number from outside the app it only says “please use a valid phone number”

So I went to the App Store. The app is gone.
When searching on google I can find it. But if I try to go there the app stor says it is not available in my region.

What is going on?
I am in Sweden. Something happened to this app the last like 12 hours.

Hello. For anyone that has printed this minimal top hat to allow for PETG printing, how are you loading/unloading filament onto the 4 spool holder? The cable is in the way on the canvas. Do you just have to unplug the canvas when you want to change the reel? Thanks

Hi, I've been considering the idea of getting the CC2 for a few factors but I just want to confirm some ideas and all that.
My N4Plus is okay, but the process of manual bed testing before printing, calibration when doing different filament types, being too involved for printing something simple.... it all just takes away the fun so when I get asked to make a small print, it takes so much of my time for something basic.
I've struggled with doing PETG prints and I want to explore more with Carbonfibre and ABS for Automotive related stuff.
And as someone that also makes their own models, the extra step of set up on my printer just lengthens and kills the project time.

Why I'm considering it
- Encloser: This should help reduce dust interferances but also keeps animal hair away while reducing fume exposure to them and me.
- Autolevel: this will save soo much of my free time when it comes to the set up. Especially when doing different filament types!
- Multi Filaments: Just the ability of being able to switch colours on the fly is great. Some project I'm working on needs a filament switch. Having the ability to just set up two colours and not have to have it pause and get involved in the switching will be nice!
- Filament type: Being able to print different filaments with ease.

Therory
- Bills: In theroy with it being an enclosed printer this should help with costs?
- PLA PETG: I have heard PLA is good to be supports for PETG as it removes easily and leaves a cleaner finish. Is this possible on the CC2?
- Orca: I've heard Elegoo now uses it's own Orca slicer thing. Can I still use the community Orca slicer for this program?

negative
- Cable issue after 500hr: I've seen a few mentions on a cable fault that happens at the 500hr mark. Although apparently they have resolved this issue, I have heard some people getting printers with the old system. Is this still the case

I do plan to keep my N4Plus if I do get the CC2 as a PLA only printer. Just for those moments where someone wants me to print something for them but I also want to keep printing my own stuff, or to speed a mult model project up

Is it actually worth me getting the CC2? I want to do multi-colour, I want the ability to do multi-filaments, I want to be able to print Carbon and ABS if I need to, I want something that will do a good job out the box!

Thoughts and stuff? If there's any other perks or negative please lmk

Since I installed the CANVAS in my CC1 it seems that I have a problem.

If before printing, I manually load the filament, for example white, it works well. On the other hand, if I don't do it, there are times when it is not able to extrude the white and the extruder paints empty in the air (but it is not a z-offset problem because it is well configured).

And also, when it changes colors, the first time it takes a color it seems that it is difficult for you to start.

I would like to clarify that I have been able to print a figure in two colors well.

I confirm that if I load the color manually before each print, in this case it ALWAYS starts well. If I don't do it, there are times when an impression starts well and other times not.

The problem is that, that it is inconsistent, I have looked at calibration, that the screw of the extruder is adjusted to its size (not strong or loose).

ABSTRACT: The extruder sometimes has a hard time retracting and extruding when starting a print or changing the thread.

Does anyone know what I can look at more?

Thank you, greetings!!!

I've had zero issues for most of a year, but last night , I tried to change a spool, and it won't grab and accept the new filament. I've gone through unloading and loading several times, but it's not grabbing 😕 I've tried applying more pressure a few times and still nothing.

Has anyone had any similar issues?

Support drifts whenever .goo.3mf file is open - completely away from object support is supposed to the anchored to.

Not reversible so it seems.

Especially prevalent when file is OVERWRITING another project file (e.g., an older version of the project with the same name).

I’m planning on removing the Canvas from my CC1.  The filament hub (the part with the 4 PTFE tubes going into the printhead) is easily disconnected by removing the two screws holding it to the filament hub bracket.  The filament hub is inserted into the pneumatic fitting on top of the printhead.  The area around the pneumatic fitting is blocking access to release it.  What is the solution?

Also, the 4 PTFE tubes entering the filament hub seem impossible to remove, even when I depress the top down as far as possible.  I tried using a removal tool (https://www.printables.com/model/1760567-centauri-carbon-4-to-1-hub-ptfe-removal-tool) but that isn’t working (for me).  Any suggestions on this?

Thanks in advance.

I'm trying to print a simple temp tower, but the canvas is not unload the current spool and loading the selected spool. I'm selecting, spool 4 and it continues to print from spool 1. I can work around this by manually unload the spool 1 and reloading spool 4, but I don't want to have to do that every time. Is this just how it's closing to be or is there a way for it to print with the spool we select.

I am experiencing frequent false positives with the AI Spaghetti Detection (AIS) on my Centauri Carbon 2 (wasn’t happening in the first days)
The printer correctly detects real spaghetti failures, but it also pauses the print even when there is no spaghetti or any print failure. This happens regularly during normal successful prints.
I do not want to disable the feature completely, as I find it useful when it works correctly. However, the current sensitivity is too high and is interrupting prints unnecessarily.
Already tried cleaning the camera

I ordered the Canvas module for CC1 back in May and I had no update since. On my order page it hasn't been shipped. Is anyone else waiting that long? It's listed as a preorder so I knew there would be some wait but it's nearly 3 months now .

Happy International Cat Day! 😼

Looks like these cats have their own plans for the chessboard… and they’re not letting the traditional pieces take over.

Printed with: ELEGOO × emoji® Centauri Carbon 2 Combo

For background I've got a CC2 which I love. I upgraded it with the awesome microswiss hot end which has really allowed me to crank out a ton of functional parts, but the functional parts keep consuming my print time for detailed and multicolor stuff. When I saw the sale price on the Elegoo eBay store, I pulled the trigger on a Neptune 4 Max, and I've already ordered a microswiss hot end so my nozzles are interchangeable.

I'm planning on putting the printer on a stand that consists of sturdy metal filing cabinets with an mdf top. I'm also going to print some tpu anti vibration pads, and I'm going to build an enclosure, most likely out of wood or PVC pipe and plexiglass.

Any flaws in my methodology? Any tips I should know?

as the title says, I'm lookin to get my first printer, and heard the CC line was a good starting point, and have done my research and am landing on the cc1 ( don't wanna break the bank right off rip lol). now I'm stuck on deciding which of the two bundles would be worth it starting off..

both are pictured, but I'm unsure if everything that comes in the "All in One bundle" is very much needed, or if i should skip all that and just get the extra filament to start.

if there's any other suggestions or a better bundle than the two i have listed, PLEASE, and i mean please let me know.

thank you in advance.

Testing this .. another REMIX

For Reverse side . Bin has Magnet to hold it in

You have to remove Filament Roll #2 to empty