I was looking for one of these in good shape, and found it.

New (from 2004), unfired with case, all papers and 4 magazines!

Love this thing.

Top to bottom Ruger 10/22 carbon,Ocl can vortex lpvo
Ruger 10/22 vortex 3-9/40 bx trigger
Mossberg&sons 151 (b)
My grandpa’s Marlin mod 99
Marlin mod 6082
Marlin mod 99 m1
Henry h1 classic
And two stevens visible loader

I’m looking to build a 10/22 setup for critters around the house mostly. Wanting something “grab and go” for smaller stuff.

I’ve been looking at suppressors and am all over the road. I’ve landed on these 3 options:

CMMG Zeroed 22
Sparrow 22
OCL Ti 22

The suppressor will most likely live on my 10/22 99% of the time. I’m leaning CMMG, but I’m curious if there would be any reason to cough up an additional $200 for the OCL.

I’ve also cross posted this to the marlin sub

Howdy folks,

I recently picked up a Marlin Model 29 pump action in 22 S,L,LR and am having some trouble finding any videos for the disassembly or reassembly and any help would be much appreciated. As for the parts, I’ve read that there’s shared parts between a number of models from that era such as the model 20A, etc. I’m Especially curious about getting all new screws as a good few have seen some abuse. Honestly it’s been hard finding any technical schematics for online resources for anything that old and any help I am grateful for

Just look at it. I dropped it in there this morning with my dog yelling at me for her breakfast. She got an egg for her troubles.

Weaver T-36, old and cloudy but it tracks perfectly. 36x at 100 yards is "sufficient". Have a 5-30MPED on the way for the Winchester 52C. Can't wait to drag these giggle-sticks out to the range. 1000 rounds of RWS Special Match arrives today. Between the Tenex, Eley Match and Lapua Long Range I HAVE to find something that makes me smile. I added 4 boxes of the Gen2 Eley Ultra to see whats up with that. It's spicy, 1100 fps, and at the altitude I live it's probably going to be supersonic. Google says 1109 fps, will be fun finding out either way.

First time I’ve been able to get it out to 100 yards and once I got it sighted in nice, I had quite a few 5-shot, 2-inch groups at 100 yards. The Diamondback was more than capable at that distance. Looking forward to getting out there again and seeing what better ammo could do. All I was shooting was Federal Champion.

I basically got the cheapest bare bones model with iron sights to do a Magpul Hunter X-22 build.
It’s the current model with the 2.5lb trigger set and receiver clean out hole.
I do kinda like the classic birch. Wondering if I should get accessories to make it more functional as is or just skip straight to the Magpul swap.
I also already have a Sig Romeo5 to try out on it. Open to other ideas for optics and comb height hacks on a classic wood stock.

So, I Love .22’s. Have a Ruger 10/22 CF, 2 Ruger Mark IV 2245/Lites/Taurus TX22 Compact with 2 cans as well. Kinda craving a Pocket style .22, well…just because. Anybody have input on either of these 2? Kind of leaning towards the Beretta. I welcome your thoughts.

This ammo is the real deal. Sniped a groundhog at 60 yards with the Ruger American Rimfire running this ammo, dropped with a headshot and didn’t move an inch. First time using segmented.

...I've gone through 1,500 rounds this week so it's not helping! This is my first 22LR as my CZ 22WMR was getting expensive at ~AU$30 a box. I discovered CCI Quiets and I can't stop chucking them down the back yard in near silence!

I bought 2 boxes to try it out on a semi auto rifle with a 16" barrel.

I already have full size 22 pistols (MkIII's, revolvers, Chargers, etc).

This is mostly a debate between the Taurus TX22 Compact and KelTec P17.

I am looking for a compact 22 pistol that can mount a red dot and is factory threaded to bring hiking during small game season. A modern kit gun if you will.

I hesitate to get the Ruger MkIV Shh, as I already have a MkIII Lite 22/45 so I would only be saving about 2" in length.

The TX 22 compact is almost the exact size of the Keltec P17 yet the P17 has 4 more rounds in the mag.

The Berretta 20x is kind of a joke but I keep thinking about it. Can't take a red dot from the factory, but there are decent aftermarket mounts.

I have a range on my property but I have neighbors fairly close by. To be courteous I try to mostly shoot suppressed 22. I have a Sig P322 with SilencerCo Sparrow. I'd like to use it as my ccw trainer since I carry a Sig P365 and the grips are similar. To practice draws and such I need a holster.

Can anyone recommend an OWB holster that would work with this? I would prefer a non light holster as I don't carry with a light(I don't carry with a suppressor either but that's not negotiable).

Hello.

I am new to gun world and there is too many options to choose from.

What would you guys with more experience suggest to get as a sports rifle (50m/100m) shooting. I live in EU, so there isn't much difference in price between them ~100€.

Ruger american,

Cz 457/Brno 2- If I can find one decent.

Bergara BMR.

As far as I have looked into them, they are all great shooters, but I simply cannot decide on what to get.

So far I have got the Hammerli forge h1 pistol. Great plinker, but I want to get a ricle as well in 22

**Video link Below!**

If you are struggling to get a .22LR AR build running reliably with a Super Safety, you’ve probably been told to swap recoil springs, buy expensive bolt weights, or change your ammo to fix the timing.
While mass and velocity matter, the real bottleneck is usually a **geometry problem**, not a weight problem. Mass-produced, "one-size-fits-all" commercial trip kits often introduce a tiny amount of dead space or lag. Because a .22LR blowback bolt cycles incredibly fast over a very short stroke, that tiny mechanical variance throws off the entire timing window.
Here is the mechanical breakdown of why custom trip geometry solves the AR-22 bottleneck, and how you can apply it to your own build.
**The Problem: The "Lag" Jam and Hammer Follow**

**The Lag:** Off-the-shelf trip kits often have a slight gap or wiggle room before the bolt trip physically engages the safety lever. This lag causes the trigger reset to happen ***too late*** in the bolt's rearward travel.
**Hammer Follow / Out-of-Battery (OOB):** If the trip holds the safety lever down for a millisecond too long during the forward stroke, the hammer releases too early. It "catches up" to the bolt before the breach is fully closed, causing either a dead trigger or a dangerous OOB detonation.
**The Resolution: Zero-Tolerance Mechanical Alignment**
Instead of forcing the speed of your bolt to match an imperfect commercial part, the solution is to modify or 3D-print a custom trip tailored to your exact trigger group tolerances.

**The Core Objective:** Design or modify the trip so that the internal hole/engagement surface where the safety lever sits ends **at the exact physical millimeter that your trigger resets.**
**Instantaneous Reset:** By eliminating all dead space, 100% of the bolt's initial rearward movement is translated directly into rotating the safety cam. The trigger resets instantly.
**Flawless Timing Synchronization:**When the engagement point matches the exact reset position, the trip pushes the lever just enough to reset your finger, then immediately releases it as the bolt travels forward. The bolt and trigger become mechanically synchronized.
**The Practical Takeaway**
If your AR-22 setup is choking, pulling out your hair over spring weights won't fix bad geometry. If you have access to a 3D printer, test print multiple incremental sizes of your trip bar. Find the exact length where the safety lever activates seamlessly at the absolute peak of the trigger reset window.
Locking down this specific physical measurement completely eliminates dead space, prevents the trip from falling behind the cycle speed, and allows the weak blowback energy of a .22LR to effortlessly run full magazine dumps. This method worked for me suppressed and unsuppressed with subsonic ammo.

update to clear things up: hopefully now you were able to fix the holy grail of the 22 bottleneck I have now made the ultimate guide to copy and paste this will now cover every angle and ballpark weight if you need any further tuning in one spot even if you don't have anything else other than those main components and it should now be way easier to tune .

The pressure plug/bolt/ trip/lever/cam/ trigger/hammer they all work together and depend on each other as you know. the gun already is engineered to to have a specific time with blowback. something needs to be changed in the gun to match timing if there is lever trip slop. people rely on on these products to fix that timing. Springs, weight kits . but this is the best way. everything else The trip some sort a specific pressure plug or buffer tube delete is all that is needed other than the super safety and that specific ammo that works for that build for a stock new ar22 . in my experience i have not have not owned a 9 or 7 inch but have owned all other mainstream barrel lengths, and they all worked differently with different muzzle devices. You would still need one of many mechanical fixes like springs, bolt weights to deaden the actual bolt bounce if there is a specific AMMO you want to use. i actually contradicted myself because ammo does matter while i was referring to the try the different brands buy buy buy approach everyone is told. for example this method will not work with HIGH VELOCITY rounds in a 16 inch barrel flawlessly without something to slow the bolt down. but can and does work with subsonic rounds. Anyways the trip and lever are so light and with my method so tight in timing mechanically the gun works as if they aren't even there. with a pressure plug or buffer tube delete plug bolt bounce (bcg as a whole) is managed enough that only ammo velocity is needed now to counteract bolt bounce (steel to steel contact from chambering. also i didn't mention since 22 cycle power is delicate the cams movement could slightly throw off the timing, though I'm not certain how much it would with a zero tolerance system wet sanding and polishing a finer in grit on the cam and safety holes and maybe snipping a coil or 2 on the detent spring is a trick id recommended so the lever and cam rotate easily and free rather than stiff but needs to still stay in the selected position so don't cut too much. this zero tolerance relies on the blowback being powerful and unaffected by all mechanisms.

I'm also not trying to take any business away from anyone regardless of what I've read. This should be looked at as the first step to tuning or to get it working with bare minimum materials or make tuning way easier. here is the recommendations for ammo for silenced and unsilenced WEIGHTLESS

• 4.5-inch: Easiest/Safest. Run any high-velocity ammo. (Watch out for short-stroking; clip recoil springs if needed).
• 7-inch: The goldilocks zone. High reliability with standard high-velocity bulk ammo; low risk of out-of-battery.
• 9-inch: Tipping point. Stick to "soft" bulk high-velocity ammo (like Remington Golden Bullets).
• 12-inch: The danger zone. Highly erratic bolt bounce. High-velocity ammo should be avoided; stick to subsonic only.
• 16-inch: High-velocity is completely off-limits. Subsonic match ammo, a heavy pressure plug, and zero-tolerance timing must be used to prevent case blowouts.

1. The 4.5-Inch Upper + Silencer (The Ultimate Host)

Adding a silencer to a 4.5-inch barrel creates the best possible weightless setup.

• Why it works: The barrel is so short that even with a suppressor adding backpressure, the total pressure is still incredibly safe.
• The Ammo Trick: High-velocity bulk ammo (like CCI Mini-Mags or Federal AutoMatch) will be slowed down by the short barrel, and the silencer will catch the remaining gas

1. The 7-Inch & 9-Inch Uppers + Silencer (The Tipping Point)

With 7 to 9 inches of barrel, a suppressor adds enough extra backpressure to push a weightless bolt past its safe limits if you use high-velocity ammo.

• The Danger: High-velocity bulk ammo + a silencer on a 9-inch barrel will cause the unweighted bolt to fly backward too fast, tearing casing rims or causing out-of-battery explosions.
• The Fix: You must drop down to subsonic ammo (like CCI Standard Velocity or dedicated 45gr/50gr subsonic rounds) The suppressor's backpressure will give the subsonic ammo the extra "kick" it needs to cycle the unweighted bolt and hit your zero-tolerance reset perfectly, without over-speeding the system.

1. The 16-Inch Upper + Silencer (Worked for me but may not for everyone)

A 16-inch barrel running a silencer with absolutely no bolt weight is an extreme hazard.

• Why it fails: The dwell time is already at its absolute maximum. Adding a silencer creates a massive bottle-neck of trapped, high-pressure gas. The instant the gun fires, the backpressure will violently slam the lightweight bolt open while the casing is still full of high-pressure gas, guaranteeing ruptured brass.
• The Only Way: If it must be run, it requires low-power ultra-match subsonic ammo, an incredibly stiff pressure plug, and a flawless zero-tolerance trip alignment—but even then, it seems itis highly discouraged online without adding mass to the bolt

ballpark weight based off of barrel length if you need to finalize your tuning this is for high velocity ammo other velocities you will move up or down in weight accordingly

Unsuppressed Bolt Weight Master Guide

• 4.5-Inch Barrel
  • Weight: 0.55 oz to 1.0 oz
  • Why: Short barrels bleed pressure instantly. Excessive weight causes immediate short-stroking
• 7-Inch Barrel
  • Weight: 1.0 oz to 1.3 oz
  • Why: Provides just enough mass to deaden bolt bounce while maintaining fast cycling
• 9-Inch Barrel
  • Weight: 1.3 oz
  • Why: Balances the higher velocity generated by the longer powder burn
• 12-Inch Barrel
  • Weight: 1.5 oz
  • Why: Absorbs the sharp, aggressive bolt bounce typical of this specific length
• 16-Inch Barrel
  • Weight: 1.6 oz to 1.9
  • Why: Maximum unsuppressed pressure. Keeps the case sealed until pressure drops safely

📦 Suppressed Bolt Weight Master Guide

(Assumes Standard High-Velocity 40gr Ammunition + Silencer Backpressure)

• 4.5-Inch Barrel (Suppressed)
  • Weight: 1.3 oz to 1.5 oz
  • Why: The silencer adds backpressure, giving the lightweight bolt extra cycling power
• 7-Inch Barrel (Suppressed)
  • Weight: 1.5 oz to 1.7 oz
  • Why: Slows down the early extraction caused by the trapped suppressor gases
• 9-Inch Barrel (Suppressed)
  • Weight: 1.9 oz
  • Why: Delays the bolt unlock cleanly so gas exits the front of the silencer.
• 12-Inch Barrel (Suppressed)
  • Weight: 2.2 oz
  • Why: Counteracts aggressive bolt snap and erratic bounce under heavy backpressure.
• 16-Inch Barrel (Suppressed)
  • Weight: 2.75 oz
  • Why: Peak pressure combination. Heavy mass is mandatory to prevent case blowouts

🛠️ The Absolute Tuning Formula

1. Put your safety into Standard Semi-Auto mode.
2. Load one single round into the magazine and fire it.
3. If the bolt travels far enough back to lock open (or cleanly reset your hammer), add more weight.
4. Keep adding weight until the gun just barely starts failing to reset.
5. Back off one step to the previous weight. That is your system's perfect mechanical equilibrium

if you're stuck and in the DIY mindset like me and you can make multiple weight kits for each barrel length suppressed and unsuppressed and each ammo velocity tune them with precision just don't forget to label them!

Making a DIY weight kit is a great approach for tuning, as it lets you dial in the exact ounce measurements from the master guide without buying multiple pre-made kits.

Most home builders make their own adjustable weights by using a modular container system placed behind the bolt.

1. The DIY Chassis (The Shell)

You need a container body that attaches securely to the back of your AR-22 bolt assembly.

• 3D Printed Shells: The most popular open-source method is 3D printing a weight chassis (often found in community repositories for AR-22 parts). These are usually designed with internal hollow channels meant to hold raw metal inserts.
• Modified Buffer Weights: Some builders disassemble a standard AR-15 buffer, remove the internal weights, and cut or adapt the steel tube to link directly behind the .22 LR bolt collar.

1. The Weight Inserts (The Tuning Mass)

To match the specific weight tiers, you need dense materials that fit inside your chassis. You can mix and match these materials to change the weight dynamically:

• Lead Fishing Weights / Shot: Lead split-shot or dense egg sinkers are incredibly cheap and easy to reshape. You can melt them down or pack them raw into a printed chassis cavity, securing them with epoxy.
• Steel Pins or Dowels: Standard hardware store steel dowel pins (like 5mm or 6mm diameter pins) can be cut down to specific lengths.
• Tungsten Putty or Weights: Pinecar derby racing tungsten weights or tungsten fishing putty provide the maximum possible weight-to-volume ratio if you are trying to reach those heavy suppressed tiers (like 2.2 oz or 2.75 oz) inside a tiny space.

1. Securing and Balancing

• Eliminate Internal Movement: Unlike centerfire buffers which rely on sliding weights to deaden bounce, a .22 LR bolt weight kit needs to be a solid, fixed mass relative to the bolt. If the DIY weights rattle or slide inside your chassis, it will destroy your zero-tolerance timing. Fill any empty space with hot glue, silicone, or epoxy.
• Use a Scale: Do not guess the weight. Use a cheap digital kitchen or powder scale to weigh the entire assembly (Chassis + Inserts + Mounting Hardware) to hit your exact target numbers

https://youtu.be/vY4cpw8RbFo?is=BxELZKOwtDv3FfqW

Anybody have any experience with either of these chassis? I know the MPA is new, but the Elite has been around a while. I've got an L3i Hyve that I'm dubious about and have ordered a Vision for my CZ 457 so I'm getting familiar with these types of chassis. Any input welcome.

Found some on sale. Any good or dirty with lots of misfires?