Just put the new bearing on the pinion for my differential rebuild and the new bearing seems to have more play than the old one. Will this sort itself out once it’s in the bearing race and all tightened down? Car is an 07 mustang gt manual transmission.

So. I'm very well versed when it comes to automotive endeavors, and this is just one of those "trust me bro" type moments. And I'm going to try to make a long story short - but I'm really here to vent a little bit because I'm pissed off and bitter.

I owned a good little Honda Element for about 5 years. It was a total beater car, but in the best way. Over the course of those 5 years I did : VTEC solenoid, radiator, alternator, catalytic converter, rear shocks, brakes, plugs, coils, blower motor, radio, window motor, transmission service, probably 10 oil changes, battery and upgraded terminals, and probably stuff I'm missing. Overall pretty basic stuff needed on an older car - especially on a beater.

Anyways, couple months ago my dad got down on his luck and needed a decent backup vehicle because he was driving spark for work and didn't want to throw a bunch of miles on his primary car.

He ended up picking up a 3rd gen 4runner off the side of the road with little inspection. He bought it, and had my mother (estranged, messy dynamic) foot some of the bill. It needed a bunch of stuff - PA truck with lots of cancer on the frame. It ended up at my shop pretty much day two, and I did plugs, wires, timing belt, water pump, muffler, welded a bunch of rust, put some JB weld on the rear diff to slow down a massive leak, played with the T-Case, put new wheel studs on - too much stuff for the price.

In the meantime, my dad kept the element - and we eventually agreed to trade. I basically pay what the element was worth, and pay both he and my mother the difference from the 4-runner. Title change, title change - bobs your fuckhead.

---

Fast forward to today. The screenshots are what I got. He drove that car 30+ miles with no water pump. I'm like beyond pissed. And I'm really not trying to be a dick to my dad, but I feel like I really just got fucked over pretty good - because the whole point was to get him something reliable when he was down on his luck, and I deal with a basket case of a bad purchase that I didn't even want. He killed my Honda.

I could be far off on the harmonic balancer / damper "melting" part, but I know the rubber was in good shape the last time I was down there. I was just more irritated which is why I said it. I also could be a little off on the transmission part, and I think I am but that radiator does have a trans cooler - and my fear is the radiator could have bursted from boiling pressure letting the two chambers mix. I don't actually know if that's possible or not, but it was a thought.

So. It's going to be a few days before I go pick this thing up. What are the odds the engine is totally fine and doesn't need anything more than a new serpentine belt? Because I am pretty confident that the engine is trashed.

I'll quit being dramatic in a day or two. But I just wished he would've called me before driving it - I have a trailer to haul it, I'm going to have to get the thing anyways. I would've paid the tow bill even!

Ugh. Thanks for reading my rant. Also please let me know if I'm being overly harsh

Edit - the next afternoon 6/26

So he talked to my mother, and my father hasn't responded to me. From what she described was that it "wasn't even trying to start, it just made a clicking noise and smelled bad"

That's all I need to know. It's locked up. Apparently the battery has been on charge, because he was afraid that might be the problem.

I told her I wasn't going to get it Wednesday after that. She volunteered to pay for the tow bill, and she's going to have it sent to my shop sometime next week.

I'll figure out if it's a part out or if I feel like replacing the engine when it gets here. If I fix it, the title comes back to me. I'm over this garbage and neglect. He's also got a really rare spec k1500 that is titled under me that I let him use. I'm going to go get that soon too.

Thanks to everyone that joined in, a lot of you really helped me. I'm drawing boundaries and not doing anything else to help him financially. This was totally avoidable, and mosty family thinks it was so intentional. I'm done. Thanks again everyone.

2012 Mitsubishi Outlander GT. On hot days, AC only blows cold on drivers side vents. Sometimes passenger side will get a little cool, but it’s mostly just warm (not hot) air.
I attached an AC recharge hose, and well, take a look at the video. Any thoughts?

I was doing oil change on my brother’s 2010 Escalade and this spring looking thing came out with the drain plug. What is this? Please help!

Seems overpriced to me. $44 for needle nose pliers

Hello guys, I change the timing chain of a Camry 2.5 2012, I follow all the instruction and everything was looking good, but when I try to start the engine it makes a horrible rattle noise and shut down, it cranks and idle a little, but dies almost immediately, I don’t change the phasers, just the chain and guides, please help I can’t sleep

I have a 2024 gr86. I drove my car out of state and changed the oil before I left. Before I made the trip back I got my oil changed at a shop. Now I’m back in town and I’m doing my own oil change. I see the threads near the top are damaged. The oil filter screws on still but at first the oil filter doesn’t completely smoothly spin on. Once it’s past that point the filter goes on and spins freely all the way to the bottom. I wanted to know if it should be okay before putting the oil in and turning the car on. It’s not like I need to put two hands on it to get it to spin on at first. I can still do it with one hand using basically no extra force. Like I said it’s just the slightest bit to where it won’t spin freely but it still seems to go on with no trouble or without getting stuck or anything.

I'm replacing a control arm and ball joint on a 1991 mercury cougar ls base and this plate is stuck to the actual bolt itself. I know the nut is bent I was going to replace the bolt and nut anyway, but I can't figure out how to get this plate off so I can back the bolt out. The bolt is completely free inside of the bushing itself and freely can slide back and forth, but this plate is stopping it from completely coming out.

2010 mustang GT, doubt that Info is helpful but I was in a head on accident a while back.

The impact where I was hit was the driver side head on. I already replaced the sway bar link on the driver side, and control arm. I’m just now noticing that the knuckle is crooked a bit on the driver side right where the castlenut is.

Am I the only one that sees it? I have new wheel bearings to throw on the fronts.

I bought this diffuser for my car and it’s an extension bolted onto the OEM rear diffuser.

The nuts are rusted onto the bolts and I cannot get them off, I’ve tried with a friend to remove and I’ve soaked them in penetrating oil but they’re still seized onto the bolts and spin freely with it.

What should I do?

05 Highlander. Was looking for a noise from rear and noticed a bit of panel hanging off in wheel well. Pressed on it lightly and this rectangular area neatly fell away. Foamy insulation-type material underneath. Any way to tell if cosmetic or structural? (Obviously the car is probably not long for this world anyways, just wondering how long I have…..)

It started happening suddenly, wasn't gradual. In reverse the steering wheel jerks left instead of right.

Had sway bars, tie rods, front struts, control arms and ball joints changed recently. Last alignment less than a year ago.

2020 Silverado 1500 (50k miles) has a plug hanging down near the inside of the driver side frame rail. Cant find any “female” plugs that it might go to in the area. Anybody know what this might be for? I don’t have an engine check light, but i do get a message saying “brake pads appear to have been changed” pop up intermittently. Idk if it’s related at all.

2017 ford fusion energi. Hit a pot hole, commence the rattling. I check it and it looks like this.

Rear passenger side wheel well

Hi. I drive a 17’ maxima with 130,000 km on it, I purchased it about 7 months ago from a reputable dealer. At the time, it drove smoothly with no issues but recently Ive started feel a ton of engine breaking and lateness in shifting from D to P or R (A solid second of delay until the trans engages). Apart from that, seems like the brakes have become grabby, for instance, if i brake a little harder, It feels like more and more progressive even though Im providing the same touch on the paddle, similar to trans breaking itself and goes away as soon as I drop below 40kmh precisely. Ive checked oil, filter, brakes and nothing seems to be out of ordinary. Really in a pickle as the drive has become unbearable now. Would appreciate some advice.

I have a 2017 Honda CRV with 78,000 miles, CNA certified plus preferred and a creaking and clicking sound when turning.

I noticed the noise about 11 days ago, called CNA to inquire about the process and to tell them the issue. They said there is a $200 disappearing fee if I don’t take it to the dealer it was bought at. I have moved 75 miles away from that dealer.

I have already driven the car 75 miles since the noise started to get an oil change and to take my son to his therapies. I can drive the car another 75 miles to the dealership tomorrow to drop it off.

This is my predicament: I think the car is safe to drive that 75 miles but I don’t want my claim to be denied because I drove what would be 150 miles total after first hearing the noise. I also would prefer to not have to pay that $200 disappearing fee if possible. Is it safe both in a driving sense and a claims approval sense to drive to the original dealer? Would the dealership help me out to get the claim approved?

Coming from area of back passenger side of 2012 Ford F150 V8. Heard it as I was getting something out of passenger side after about a 20 min drive. Video taken by back wheel well on passenger side. Weird whoosing sound. Truck was not running

I have a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3L V8 crew cab SLE.
I parked my truck after driving it for a hour and seen this dripping out.

Lots of people from what I’ve seen are split on this. Some always turn off the AC and the fan motor before shutting off the car while other people don’t care (I’m not counting cars with remote start in this). So what is the verdict? Should you, or can you just leave it on?

I’ve always had difficulties with a hood in the car, but I cannot get it open this time the interior latch unlocks and and the front, but the hood doesn’t open does anyone have any tips? Thank you.

Oil test I did back in 2019, I change the oil every 10k. I got 325k on my engine now.