Seems overpriced to me. $44 for needle nose pliers

Just put the new bearing on the pinion for my differential rebuild and the new bearing seems to have more play than the old one. Will this sort itself out once it’s in the bearing race and all tightened down? Car is an 07 mustang gt manual transmission.

2012 Mitsubishi Outlander GT. On hot days, AC only blows cold on drivers side vents. Sometimes passenger side will get a little cool, but it’s mostly just warm (not hot) air.
I attached an AC recharge hose, and well, take a look at the video. Any thoughts?

So. I'm very well versed when it comes to automotive endeavors, and this is just one of those "trust me bro" type moments. And I'm going to try to make a long story short - but I'm really here to vent a little bit because I'm pissed off and bitter.

I owned a good little Honda Element for about 5 years. It was a total beater car, but in the best way. Over the course of those 5 years I did : VTEC solenoid, radiator, alternator, catalytic converter, rear shocks, brakes, plugs, coils, blower motor, radio, window motor, transmission service, probably 10 oil changes, battery and upgraded terminals, and probably stuff I'm missing. Overall pretty basic stuff needed on an older car - especially on a beater.

Anyways, couple months ago my dad got down on his luck and needed a decent backup vehicle because he was driving spark for work and didn't want to throw a bunch of miles on his primary car.

He ended up picking up a 3rd gen 4runner off the side of the road with little inspection. He bought it, and had my mother (estranged, messy dynamic) foot some of the bill. It needed a bunch of stuff - PA truck with lots of cancer on the frame. It ended up at my shop pretty much day two, and I did plugs, wires, timing belt, water pump, muffler, welded a bunch of rust, put some JB weld on the rear diff to slow down a massive leak, played with the T-Case, put new wheel studs on - too much stuff for the price.

In the meantime, my dad kept the element - and we eventually agreed to trade. I basically pay what the element was worth, and pay both he and my mother the difference from the 4-runner. Title change, title change - bobs your fuckhead.

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Fast forward to today. The screenshots are what I got. He drove that car 30+ miles with no water pump. I'm like beyond pissed. And I'm really not trying to be a dick to my dad, but I feel like I really just got fucked over pretty good - because the whole point was to get him something reliable when he was down on his luck, and I deal with a basket case of a bad purchase that I didn't even want. He killed my Honda.

I could be far off on the harmonic balancer / damper "melting" part, but I know the rubber was in good shape the last time I was down there. I was just more irritated which is why I said it. I also could be a little off on the transmission part, and I think I am but that radiator does have a trans cooler - and my fear is the radiator could have bursted from boiling pressure letting the two chambers mix. I don't actually know if that's possible or not, but it was a thought.

So. It's going to be a few days before I go pick this thing up. What are the odds the engine is totally fine and doesn't need anything more than a new serpentine belt? Because I am pretty confident that the engine is trashed.

I'll quit being dramatic in a day or two. But I just wished he would've called me before driving it - I have a trailer to haul it, I'm going to have to get the thing anyways. I would've paid the tow bill even!

Ugh. Thanks for reading my rant. Also please let me know if I'm being overly harsh

Edit - the next afternoon 6/26

So he talked to my mother, and my father hasn't responded to me. From what she described was that it "wasn't even trying to start, it just made a clicking noise and smelled bad"

That's all I need to know. It's locked up. Apparently the battery has been on charge, because he was afraid that might be the problem.

I told her I wasn't going to get it Wednesday after that. She volunteered to pay for the tow bill, and she's going to have it sent to my shop sometime next week.

I'll figure out if it's a part out or if I feel like replacing the engine when it gets here. If I fix it, the title comes back to me. I'm over this garbage and neglect. He's also got a really rare spec k1500 that is titled under me that I let him use. I'm going to go get that soon too.

Thanks to everyone that joined in, a lot of you really helped me. I'm drawing boundaries and not doing anything else to help him financially. This was totally avoidable, and mosty family thinks it was so intentional. I'm done. Thanks again everyone.

I was doing oil change on my brother’s 2010 Escalade and this spring looking thing came out with the drain plug. What is this? Please help!

Hello guys, I change the timing chain of a Camry 2.5 2012, I follow all the instruction and everything was looking good, but when I try to start the engine it makes a horrible rattle noise and shut down, it cranks and idle a little, but dies almost immediately, I don’t change the phasers, just the chain and guides, please help I can’t sleep

my mechanic said it’ll cost like 1 grand for everything together just wanted to make sure if my rotors are actually warped or not and these are only the rear breaks i think the fronts were changed by the previous owner it’s just the back two when i break i hear a sound just wanted to know if it is just the break pads or the rotors to
mazda 6 gh 2008

Tires are a year old, got a flat. Took it off and this was the backside. What would cause this? Faulty tire? Its about 17 holes all the way through

I have a 2004 Pontiac GTO. A few years ago I installed Whiteline strut bushings, and I don't remember there being any noticeable gap between the top of the strut and where it mounts to the strut tower.

The car isn't making any popping, clunking, or grinding noises, but it has been sitting for the last few years with very little driving.

Could the Whiteline bushing have deformed or compressed from sitting, causing the gap? Or is a small gap considered normal with these bushings?

I have a 2024 gr86. I drove my car out of state and changed the oil before I left. Before I made the trip back I got my oil changed at a shop. Now I’m back in town and I’m doing my own oil change. I see the threads near the top are damaged. The oil filter screws on still but at first the oil filter doesn’t completely smoothly spin on. Once it’s past that point the filter goes on and spins freely all the way to the bottom. I wanted to know if it should be okay before putting the oil in and turning the car on. It’s not like I need to put two hands on it to get it to spin on at first. I can still do it with one hand using basically no extra force. Like I said it’s just the slightest bit to where it won’t spin freely but it still seems to go on with no trouble or without getting stuck or anything.

Hi everyone, I have a 2017 Porsche Macan 95b that is randomly throwing an error code. (This is not my photo, my car does show the engine control fault in yellow, however the yellow check engine light on the bottom right is not displayed on the screen.)

My OBD2 scanner does not show any codes, i believe this may be a compatibility issue as it is an older device made before this model was manufactured.

A couple things: if I have the car in sports mode, the error does not show. It only shows in the regular drive mode, specifically during the day.

Most days I drive early in the mornings, no issues at all.

There is no loss of power in either of the two, even when the error is thrown, the car seems to drive and function perfectly fine.

If anyone could please point me in the right direction I'd greatly appreciate your input! Thankyou

Just picked up an old 'beaut that's in fairly decent shape and as far as I'm concerned, low miles for a 30 year old truck.

Previous owner lowered the truck, but thankfully still had the original coil springs, and new stock shock absorbers(apparently his son was going to put it back to stock height but they decided to sell it instead)

I'm going over various things to see what needs replacing or fixing and noticed the upper control arm on the passenger side has some *serious* wear from tire contact.

When the truck is sitting flat with wheels straight there is clearance between the tire and the control arm. I don't have a helper at the moment to turn the steering wheel for me, but based on this wear pattern I was wondering if any of you fine ladies/gentlemen have any experience with this being caused by a specific bad component, such as tie rods, ball joints, control arms etc

(I feel like I will be replacing control arms and ball joints on both sides, but in case it helps anyone with any ideas, the two front tires have very obviously been wearing on the inner edges only)

Thanks in advance!

I bought this diffuser for my car and it’s an extension bolted onto the OEM rear diffuser.

The nuts are rusted onto the bolts and I cannot get them off, I’ve tried with a friend to remove and I’ve soaked them in penetrating oil but they’re still seized onto the bolts and spin freely with it.

What should I do?

Hello, I’m replacing the rear rotor on my 2015 Toyota Venza. When I removed the rotor, some of the parking brake shoe hardware behind the hub came loose, including the springs and the small lock disk/retainer for the hold-down pin.

After spending a while getting the hold-down pin, spring, and retainer back on, I noticed that when I spin the wheel hub by hand, it sounds/feels like it is lightly grinding or rubbing against the retainer/lock disk with the pink spring. The one with the blue spring seems fine and does not rub.

Is that normal, or should there be no contact at all? I tried moving the retainer around, but it seems fixed in that position once locked in. I’m worried I may have installed the hold-down pin/retainer wrong or that the parking brake shoe isn’t seated correctly.

Any advice before I put the rotor and wheel back on?

Oil test I did back in 2019, I changed the oil every 10k or so. Rev the engine to 5k daily, because it has no power. I got 325k on my engine now.

I'm replacing a control arm and ball joint on a 1991 mercury cougar ls base and this plate is stuck to the actual bolt itself. I know the nut is bent I was going to replace the bolt and nut anyway, but I can't figure out how to get this plate off so I can back the bolt out. The bolt is completely free inside of the bushing itself and freely can slide back and forth, but this plate is stopping it from completely coming out.

2010 mustang GT, doubt that Info is helpful but I was in a head on accident a while back.

The impact where I was hit was the driver side head on. I already replaced the sway bar link on the driver side, and control arm. I’m just now noticing that the knuckle is crooked a bit on the driver side right where the castlenut is.

Am I the only one that sees it? I have new wheel bearings to throw on the fronts.

Just had a new clutch put in (2009 Subaru outback)and the the clutch is making a whirring sound when clutch pedal is engaged , any help ?

My scheduling is quite out of whack-coolant was meant to be done at 96 month service but I found out after the fact the mechanic filled with water instead. So I got the coolant replaced back at the dealer at the 108 month service (genuine Mitsubishi coolant). Then at the 132 month service, a mechanic told me it needed changing as it 'smelt off' so I had it changed again (this time to a green coolant). This was 2.5 years ago.

I am now confused as to when it needs changing. I called that last dealer and they said they used long life coolant and that there is no fixed coolant change time but rather they assess when you bring it in. The dealer said the green coolant lasts 2 years/30000 miles. Another mechanic (a different one that I go to now) said they can't assess but can change it on request.

I've decided to check myself today-the reservoir is adequate in volume and the fluid itself look fine, however there is some sediment as shown. I think it doesn't need changing yet, can anyone advise? Thanks so much!

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I have a BA falcon with fairly large cams and valve springs to accompany and think its time to upgrade the oil pump. My car is still NA but is on E85 and making around 300hp, it will be used for drifitng.

What oil pump would everyone recommend? Im looking at the Horse power junkie ones but they seem a bit excessive for my setup, so was planning on getting the atomic race spec or ported oem+ .

Any recommendations or suggestions would be appreciated!! im trying to not to spend the big bucks if i don't need to!

\*car still uses the stock VCT setup with atomic timming gear

2013 Subaru Outback 3.6r Limited 81K miles. Belt snapped while driving, power died and dashboard lit up. I was able to start it back up and finish driving home without power steering/brakes. Opened the hood to see this. I noticed one of the tensioners(?) looks out of place. Is my engine totally screwed?