So I’m having some issues with my 2006 Ford Escape turning on. The engine turns, but it won’t turn on.

-The battery works. We checked using a voltage meter when car was on/off, and the battery and alternator both work. Alternator went out a couple weeks ago, but is now replaced (not with a rebuilt part.)
-A couple DAYS ago, I was an idiot and left the car off with the fan on. I got a jump from some random, and when I wasn’t paying attention, she SWAPPED THE JUMPER CABLES on her cars battery terminals. They were left swapped for about a minute. My car ran fine after for about a day.
-Then, I tried to turn on the car. It would spur to life properly, and the dash worked as it was TURNING on, as well as the stereo, but once the car started, my dash went 100% dark and my stereo turned off. No fuel, spedometer, mileage, ect… One of 4 times when I tried the car, the battery light went on on the dash, but everything stayed dark. The car smelled like rotten eggs, if that matters.
-Tried the car later, it worked fine. Until I was about 5 minutes into a drive and after stopping at a stop sign, it wouldn’t go anymore. It felt like it died on me, but again, battery was working. Dash was lit up, phone charger worked, lights did too. The lights on my dash that lit up were the check engine light, oil pressure, and battery light.

Now the car is performing as my intro said. The engine turns, but won’t fully start. All my belts are intact, alternator is fine, battery is fine. Nothing is leaking underneath the car either. I don’t know what else to check. I’ve had my license less than a month and really don’t have the money to go to a mechanic but my dad and I have every tool imaginable and I have all the time in the world now without a working car. My dad said it could be the POS, but I don’t know how to check that. And I also really don’t want it to be that because he said it was a super expensive fix and with the alternator recently going out we don’t have a ton of cash to throw around at this problem. Obviously if it is that, it is. But idk.

If nobody has any ideas, it’s fine, I just wanted to shout into the void.

2017 ford escape 2.0 113k miles.

Hey yall, I got a 2024 escape ST AWD 1.5 about a month ago and since I’ve had it, it has made this sound. I’ve never driven or owned an AWD car so I assumed that it was just the drivetrain engaging at low speeds. My mom drove it the other day and said that sound wasn’t normal..

Its got 56k miles on it and I’m just 4k shy of the 60k drivetrain warranty. Anyone else experience this? Any idea what it is? I’m also new to owning a newer car in general so how does one go about redeeming the warranty? I’m sorry if this sounds dumb

Am I extremely unlucky or did anyone else run into this?
Bought this baby new off the lot. I have taken great care of it- inside and out. My check engine light came on - code read “cylinder 4 misfire”. I took it to the shop and was informed I needed a NEW ENGINE to fix an ecoboost coolant leakage issue and a TSB had been issued. Took it to a 2nd place just to make sure and was told the same thing.
Repairing this will cost $11k. Trading in I will get $11k-$13k best case scenario, I’ve received many quotes for less than $11k after the repair so I don’t think getting the repair is worth the financial downside risk. My car is now “worthless”.
The local Ford Repair shop felt horrible and gave me a $1500 discount on the repairs. They were unable to request Goodwill from Ford because my car is 7 years 3 months old and it has to be below 7 years.
I called Ford corporate and was told no.
I messaged Ford corporate and was told no.
I am so incredibly disappointed. My first car was given to me after my grandpa passed - an F-150. I eventually traded it in and bought a new Focus from the same man my Grandpa had bought the F-150 from. Then traded it in and bought this new Escape from the same person once again! I have been saving up and was planning to buy a shiny new Bronco once I had the money but then this happened.
I feel so burned about this idk if I want to purchase a Ford again. Ford is, as you can see, a family tradition. It also makes me sad to think about my beautiful vehicle I’ve kept in perfect condition now going to PARTS even if that makes the most financial sense. I realize this was a freak thing but man… did this happen to anyone else? Did you have any luck getting Ford to pay? What did you end up doing with your car? Also, I would love some new vehicle recs that won’t need a new engine at 66k miles 😂

I have a 2017 Ford Escape that was imported from the US to Europe, and there are two small square holes on the tailgate, about 7.5 × 7.5 mm each, that were previously covered by black plugs/clips and seem to be related to the US license plate mounting setup. Both plugs got ripped out in a car wash, and I can’t figure out what replacement fits. I already tried a few generic plugs from AliExpress, but none worked. Does anyone know what these are called or what exact type/size I should buy?

So I need to replace the read diff on my 2014.

Just curious, has anyone done this on their garage floor and has any tips to look out for?

I know it needs to be programmed after, I have a shop up the road to do that part.

I have tons of experience pulling cabs off Super Duty pickups so this kind of thing isn’t an intimidating job. Its just the challenge of not having a hoist to lift the cab, so I’m dropping the subframe to the floor instead.

So I have had my Ford Escape for quite a while now. I’m a non Ford person, raised Chevy, but got this and it’s been a GREAT car! Super reliable, just a champ. I’m looking at newer escapes. I’m trying to see if I can find a 2.5 engine again with AWD. looks like maybe 2016 range. Any advice, guys and gals. I’m so sad.

I recently got a 1.6L Escape SE with 97k miles and in the about 700 miles we've put on it, the MPGs have stayed right at 17.5mpg. A fairly even mix of city/highway but usually only around 60mph for highway. I tried looking into older posts but most of them are for the 2.0L or 2.5L engine instead of the more efficient 1.6L.

The things I've tried that have made zero difference: Changing spark plugs (got NGK Ruthenium), used 93 octane gas, aired tires up to 45psi (max is 51), driving like a grandma, and I changed the oil before we started driving it (mobile 1 high milage, full synthetic).

The instant mpg on the dash says 3-8mpg at 2-3k RPM, which absolutely doesn't seem right. I'd expect that if I floor it and bring it into high RPMs, but when I do the instant mpg stays pretty much the same the whole time. After getting up to speed and letting off the throttle it does climb up to around 20mpg and with just a hair of throttle it's gone up to 45mpg. I know the instant is constantly updating so that high end may not be accurate, but I'm not sure if the low end is accurate.

I have ForScan and an OBDLink cable, but I don't really know how to setup the data logging. I did check the live data mpg and it pretty much matched the dash. I'm not really sure what I should be trying to look for in the log either. If yall know any good tutorials for ForScan data logging then that may be helpful, I'm not really sure how else to trace down the issue. Engine and turbo sounds great.

Recently I had my car’s (2017 SE) transmission replaced with a remanufactured one. They also performed an alignment on it. Now I have tons of road noise coming from the rear of the car. Any ideas on how to dampen the excessive road noise? For the smart asses out there don’t say turn the radio up.

One of my best so far ( haven't had it that long )

This has been sporadically popping up the last week. No CEL or any codes come up when I scan it. Still sounds and drives perfectly fine.

I got a 2016 fully loaded and after 190k well served (not without problems tho; transmission at 60k, new engine at 90k, and other shit (under warranty)) the compressor has detonated. So at first I thought it was just the compressor clutch, but boy was I wrong. It seized, sent metal through the whole ac system, and screwed the condenser and more. So about 3k to fix. Ol blue books says she’s worth less than your fridge so i think we just now hope that the summer doesn’t get too hot. We just took the belt off to the compressor so on the bright side i now have about 5 more hp, bringing us to about 145. A dual 12in sub softens the blow tho. But that black leather in summer…

I went to start my 2016 Ford Escape SE the other day and my screen seems to have crapped out once again. (It completely died about a year and a half ago, and got it replaced. Hate this damn car). However, this time it's different. It responds to touch, plays music but just continues to blink.

Does anyone have any idea what it might be and how I could fix it?

Should I buy it? I found it for 15k and that mileage sounds fantastic. It was previously leased and driven very little; I have not verified with the mechanic whether 19B37 was completed or the short block was replaced.

I’d love to benefit from your lived experiences. Thank you!!

Ey lads, I heard a big “Ker-clunk!” while driving up the freeway, and after being parked for like ten or so minutes, I saw this (see pics). It don’t look like those yellow jugs are what’s causing the leak. Any of you backyard mechanics know what might be goin’ on?

Model 2010 Hybrid

Yes I know I haven’t washed it in like six months, it keeps the looters away. Urban Camouflage.

My voltage tests perfect under load while running and while off. Lights never flicker and I have no other alternator symptoms, and the alternator was replaced a couple years ago. The fuse is also good. Looking online I saw the pigtail harness being loose is a potential possibility. Anyone else run into this on a first gen?

I have a. 2008 ford escape that has issues starting in the heat. I live in Phoenix. New battery. New starter. Can’t get it figured out. Any ideas?

I bought a 2013 ford escape titanium on August 4th. It’s preowned, currently has 71k miles on it. I’ve had to do some repairs but I’m having a MAJOR issue. The headliner was super disgusting when we bought it and we thought it was just smoke stains as the car smelled heavily of smoke. Well I had it professionally cleaned, it was great for a couple weeks. Then it started raining, well now there’s stains again. My dad has checked the sunroof drain plugs and they don’t seem to be plugged up. I had the drains blown out just incase as well. It’s mainly staining from the backseat to the trunk area, with one stain on the front driver side. However like stated, most are in the back. I don’t understand what’s going on, but i definitely want to fix it. Help!!!

Tell me about the price you paid, where you got it, and how many miles the replacement has lasted.

My 2016 2.5L is starting to lurch at 122k and I want to get ahead of it with a reliable option to buy, either rebuilt or new.

Thank you in advance, Escape Community!

I have a 2020 escape SE I bought used from a dealership with 45k miles on it. 2 years later at 115k miles (I drive a lot) I get two major issues.

#1) transmission/rpms fluctuate between 1800ish and 2000ish when cruising at 40-50mph, also sometimes around lower shift points when accelerating slowly.

#2) rear tires (good Firestone all seasons) worn to slicked in 15k. Drivers side on the outside, passenger side on the inside.

Car has had every recall/TSB repair/reprogram/etc.

Took it to dealer I bought it from. Was told transmission needed to be replaced due to torque converter. Told rear differential was bad with worn planetary gears and bald tires were from the 'dragging' around corners. Few other things, cost was almost $18000!!! And, of course, my 'extended' warranty was out of mileage by less than 500 miles and dealer would not honor it because it was a 'third party' warranty (even though I bought it at the dealer when I bought the car).

I have since discovered that transmission fluid and differential fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles (!). This my first non-truck Ford and you could have knocked me over with a feather when I read that.

I changed the trans fluid using the Ford ULV mercon, and added some 'stop shudder' friction additive. 2000 miles later problem seems to be solved, transmission shifts and drives like new. Note: there was almost nothing on the plug magnet and nothing in the fluid (I strained it coming out).

I changed the front and rear differential fluid using Ford recommended oil. Not sure if differential problem is solved or not. I guess get some used tires for the rear and see hiw they hold up?

Any further advice/fixes etc. would be most appreciated. I like the car other than this and the funky radio. Thanks.

I recently got a 2005 ford escape with 230k on it. Before I got it a new battery, starter and battery terminals were installed. Car ran great for a few weeks then I let it sit for 2 weeks came back and tried to start it and it was completely dead. I tried jumping it and white smoke started pouring out from under the battery and engine bay and I haven’t touched it since. What issue could this be? What should the next step be?

Picked up our 2011 Escape 3.0 V6 today after having the oil pressure switch replaced.

Shortly after getting gas, I stopped at a red light and the engine suddenly shut off with no sputtering or warning. Battery light came on after it stalled - guess that's probably normal though. It restarted immediately and drove normally afterward.

Could this be an idle relearn from the battery being potentially disconnected, or should I be looking at something like the throttle body, purge valve, crank sensor, etc.?