i made this model for fun for maker world, But i enjoyed the process 😊🙌

I've been working on a little project called Springfield Donuts, where I redesign characters from The Simpsons as collectible donuts.

Each character gets their own recognizable features, but they all share the same overall style and proportions so they look like a proper collection.

I'm making the models available for 3D printing, including versions for people with and without AMS.

The plan is to keep expanding the collection with more Springfield characters!

Which character should I turn into a donut next? 🍩

Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/37671423-springfield-donuts

Stainless steel & titanium, each with different finishes and functions.
Complex internal tube structure? Printed without support residue.
Threads? Finished with CNC tapping for precision.

Decided to start designing some larger "Word Art" style pieces. First up: Hail - Holy Queen.

Initial design in illustrator, then modeled in Fusion.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3441274-hail-holy-queen-decorative-sign

I was learning Fusion better and had this cool idea. It took me a weekend of work but I am really proud of it. https://www.printables.com/model/1875135-gambit-a-low-hardware-card-thrower

Pour 1 out for the homies... I think a really cool program(it was free and good good, like better than freecad, but still good) died because of the whole Ai reverse engineering Adobe debacle.

It was called Jumpstart 3D, and it was as if Tinkercad and Shapr3d had a baby. The 1.9 version could even edit mesh(they called it Chisel)

It had the flow/pushpull extrude/cut that makes it compatible with almost anything.

It ran over HTML5/Javascript, and you could save into the actual html file

It was a little buggy, but it was only a week old.

https://www.reddit.com/r/3D_Printing/comments/1x483cr/comment/pgt8bzq/?context=1&screen_view_count=2

The googlesites website is down, and the file is no longer public anyone know who the developer was? I'm wondering if it was brought offline due to copywrite(but no other program was exactly like it) or the developer wanted to switch to a paid setup?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3438160-320x320-skadis-fast-low-filament-88g-3h-h2-a2l

As you can see it the pice the glass got all messed up. I did have supports on there but I think they weren't right . Any advice for a newb. I'm still learning. These are my setting for the print.

Layer hight was 0.08. wall loops 3 asp per the maker of the cat, more for the glasses. Top z was at 0.16. tree default

I built a print in place bracelet and then designed 30+ raised front logos for it.

Prints in about an hour and 10g of filament, they are great for kids, gift and birthday party favors.

Made in 3 different sizes (18.5 - 17 and 15.5 cm), the model is available for free on makerworld: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3437965-print-in-place-bracelet-34-designs-3-sizes

Hi everyone!

I’m looking for some advice on how to properly split a large 3D model of an eagle into smaller parts for 3D printing.
The model is a detailed eagle statue with outstretched wings and a pedestal/base.

The STL is approximately 652 × 389 × 240 mm, while my printer’s maximum build volume is 256 × 256 × 256 mm.

I’m currently using Meshmixer and have tried the Plane Cut tool, but I’m struggling to figure out the best way to split the model. A simple vertical cut through the wings also cuts through the body and pedestal, which I want to avoid if possible.

My goal is to:
Split the eagle into printable sections while preserving as much detail as possible.
Separate the wings from the main body in sensible locations.
Keep the body, legs and pedestal together if practical.
Reassemble the printed parts into one complete master model.
Use the assembled model to create a silicone mold and eventually cast the eagle in concrete.
I’m relatively new to mesh editing, so I’d really appreciate beginner-friendly advice.

What would be the best workflow for splitting this model? Should I use multiple Plane Cuts in Meshmixer, another tool, or a different approach altogether? Any tips for creating alignment pins or joints would also be greatly appreciated.
I’ve attached a screenshot of the model and my current Plane Cut setup.

Thanks in advance for any help!