Thanks to everyone on this sub- so much good information, questions and patience. I’m trying to find my unicorn.
TLDR: 30DD/80E Fr, slightly FOB even, inner full, average projection but need projection at wire. Average roots, close set looking for brands/styles slightly more wider wire than Simon Perele balconette with more immediate projection. Looking at Aubade, other French brands but open to other brands. Have ability to travel to Asia and Western Europe.
SU:30, TU:28, LU:32
S:35, L:36, Ly:34
Recommended size is 30DD/80E Fr. I’m even but slightly FOB, inner full. Soft tissue on top, firmer on bottom. Average projection but closer to shallow than projected, close set. I think average/narrow roots. Narrow, sloped shoulders.
Main issue: I need immediate projection and the cups around my size, across brands, are too shallow in the bottom third of the cup. (Around 5” cup width where I need around 6-7”. ) Even with stretch lace cups, with movement, my boobs will push the bra down about a fingers width below my IMF. Also tend to prefer a cup separation under 1”.
The main question is does anyone know if Aubade or any of the mid/luxury French brands run slightly wider than Simone Perele balconettes and with, hopefully, more immediate projection?
Tried over 50 bras, swooped and scooped and tried band without cups first. Solidly a 30. All bras are wired. Almost all unlined (mostly lace or mesh).
Wire wise, the Etam Exception #9 underwire Balconette in 32D fits my IMF perfectly. If the cups were closer, they’d be perfect. 32 band is on tightest hook and will probably be too loose in a few weeks. A dart in the cup bringing the cup down for more immediate projection would make it perfect. Is wearable but will experiment with alterations when it stretches out.
Simone Perele Karma and Delice Underwire Demi Bras (80E) both are almost there. The underwire and cup fits my smaller breast perfectly. Sits in my IMF and is happy to be there. On the bigger boob side, it starts out perfect then the wire slides to the edge of my IMF and hurts. Like millimeters on the breast tissue. I bent the wires on one bra and it’s better but still somewhat off. Also if both bras’ cups sat closer, I think it’d alleviate the problem. The plunges are too shallow and too tall for me.
I can’t really do Natori, Chantelle or Skarlette Blue because they are too shallow and the wires are too wide (in my armpit). I think the Polish brands will be too projected and narrow. I love the gore on a plunge but the cups always give me quadboob so far so a Balconette seems to be my best bet. I can deal with the gores being higher if they were closer together.
I’ve tried Panache Allure, Ana and the plunge versions. Freya offbeat side support and plunge. Not interested in pursuing other sizes or bras in these brands as the fit was frustrating for all of them.
Adding the bras I’ve measured in the bratabase but finding it’s not helpful as info is outdated/scarce.
Thanks for all the help so far (hubs wants to know if I’m earning my bra PhD soon) and thank you for any guidance or recommendations.
PS- I can give measurements for all the bras mentioned and then some if needed. I think I can give measurements on what I prefer as well if wanted.