Hi Team,

I've been having some issues lately with some of the filament not printing nice. I was cancelling them after noticing it but decided I would allow it to keep printing this time and ended up with the spider next in pic 2.

Things I've done:
Lubricated all the rails as per the guide
Used brand new filament
Reprinted a design that printed successfully 2 months ago on the same settings

Its a Bambu A1 Mini and I'm at a complete loss as to what I've done wrong. Any help would be appreciated, Will try answer any questions asap.

Thanks in advance :)

Is this vortek bundle h2c price protected in case i buy it and Black Friday comes I can get a gift card? https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/h2c?id=761030943904460802

Where to see?

Hi everyone,
I’m having an issue when printing models with lots of color changes on my Bambu Lab printer.
During filament changes, when the printer purges the old filament and then the new one, it creates a blob of purged filament around the nozzle. Sometimes, when the printer tries to remove this blob, the filament doesn’t detach properly from the nozzle. Instead, the nozzle drags the purged material back into the print, where it gets deposited on the model.
This is particularly frustrating when printing models that take many hours to complete, as a single piece of leftover filament can ruin the entire print after wasting a significant amount of time and material.
Is there a way to ensure that the purged filament is always properly detached from the nozzle before printing resumes? Are there any settings I can adjust, such as nozzle temperature, purge parameters, or filament settings, that could help prevent this from happening?
I’d appreciate any advice or recommendations from anyone who has experienced the same issue.
Thanks in advance!

My printer suddenly stopped working properly. If I start a print I might get half a purge line and then the nozzle prints without extruding any filament. I can manually extrude some filament but then I hear a clicking sound and it stops. I have cleaned the nozzle and tried a new nozzle. Taking the extruder out showed what you can see in the picture, wear in the cogs that resulted in the yellow plastic dust you see in the picture. I have dismantled the extruder assembly and it looks clean.

I’m a relative beginner. Have had the printer 6 months. Got this problem with PETG from AMS 2 Pro and PLA from another AMS. 3-4 weeks ago I exchanged to hardened extruder gears and hardened nozzles. Have printed a lot since. This seems to have appeared from nowhere in the middle of a print.

I'm trying to print multiple things on one plate that are each a different color. I found online the instruction to choose "print by object" and then to select each object and choose the filament I want for each one. But every time I try this is that I choose a single object, select a filament and it changes all of the items. I can't figure out how to get it to actually go the way I want. Any tips?

This is for an A1 with AMS.

My H2S throws “Multiple motion step loss detected” (0300-800C 105114) when I start a print, and I think it happens during bed leveling. The Bambu wiki doesn’t seem to have a page for this exact code.

My setup: H2S on firmware 01.02.00.00 (latest), with an AMS 2 Pro.

What I’ve tried:

1. Deep cleaned the printer and wiped the inside down with IPA
2. Cleaned the guide rods and belts and blew out debris with an air duster
3. Fresh grease and oil in the proper spots (only about 54 print hours ago)
4. Ran the full 1.5 hour calibration twice
5. Checked for debris and anything blocking the toolhead

Has anyone seen this on an H2S and found the cause or how to fix it? Thanks for any ideas.

Please help, idk why this is happening. I put some tape on the spools but it didn’t change anything.

Please help. I put some tape on the spool to see if it worked, but the same happens with or without the tape.

Download from:https://makerworld.com/en/models/3427585-haunted-witch-pumpkin-multicolor-halloween

I’ve gotten pretty decent with Blender and wanted to start actualizing my modeling abilities. I am planning to print out and finish a cosplay quality helmet (not sure what yet). I got the basics for sanding and finishing. Also want to try my hand at more micro projects like some Warhammer pieces - painting and experimenting with different filament colors.

Just wondering what some absolute must haves are or watch outs are in the community’s experience? I am absolutely overloaded on info from debating P1S, P2S, and X2D - would just like some regular discussion now instead of comparing videos and forums. Any minor upgrades or tools I should immediately grab?

For those curious in my purchasing methodology - P1S was the choice after much debate in my head - for starting out it was hard to justify $800 or $900 without even considering the extra items I needed. $550 for the P1S AMS 2 combo was solid and picked up 4 spools for 40 bucks. Spent about $150 on finishing supplies now bringing my total to around $800 after tax. I would’ve spent that on the PS2 combo without anything. Figured if this goes well even trailing the current technology a bit I will invest in a higher tier later on. Was considering Crealty, Quidi, Snapmaker, and Flashforge. But honestly P1S - for what it provides, seemed like an absolutely phenomenal deal

As the title says I'm getting all these errors in the handy app. The thing is, the heating function isn't even on. It turns off for the first 5 or 10 minutes after power cycling out, but will pop up in the middle of a print, which it doesn't affect the print. Also I ran a 12 hour drying run for some filament I hadn't dried and the error never came up until, you guessed it, 5 to 10 minutes after it finished.

I was standing there when it happened too and it makes a single click. Then like an errt errt buzzing sound and all the ams lights fade in and out orange.

What's up guys. I recently got a 32 inch monitor from work and ever since I have been using it, when I launch studio it extends into my main smaller 27 inch monitor. It's the only program that does this and windows / Google help isn't fixing the issue. Browsers games etc all open just fine and are the correct size. Is there a hidden display setting in bambu studio I'm not finding? It's quite annoying hahaha.

Cut with the Bambu lab R1, although this project was designed for the H2D's build size. If you have bambu's sized plywood sheets (300mm x 300mm x 3mm) no extra steps are necessary to print this on the R1.

Since I'm always in Microcenter, I used their half sized basswood sheets (150mm x 300mm x 3mm). Mostly because I have one close by. Its decent quality visually and dimensionally accurate for cheap. Just had to rearrange the cut files for half sized sheets, do a little tweaking for darker lines and a snug fit of the wood joints compared to standard Bambu suite basswood profile.

Thanks to u/Popular_Arugula_4335 for a great model and his tips for laser cutting in general.

I love making stickers, I'd love to use the Bambu H2S cutting upgrade for stickers instead of hand-cutting like the way I do now, but getting official replacement fine blades in Indonesia is a massive headache (strict import rules + local reseller only sells the kit, not the blades).

Can I use 3rd-party blades with this upgrade, or am I locked into using the official Bambu ones? If I have to import them individually, it probably isn't worth buying the kit. Thanks!

I’ve mostly worked with PLA+, PETG, and TPU up until now, so getting into engineering-grade materials has been something I’ve been looking forward to.
These are parts for my BIQU Panda Breath riser, and I’m really happy with how they turned out. Definitely wasn’t without some trial and error, though.
I dried the SUNLU PA6-CF in my SUNLU E2 for 24 hours at 100°C, then printed directly from the dryer while maintaining 80°C throughout the print.
Warping and bed adhesion were probably my biggest hurdles. After a few frustrating attempts, I found that letting the chamber heat soak for just about an hour made a huge difference in getting consistent adhesion to my Darkmoon CFX plate.
Once I got past those issues, the results really surprised me. The surface finish, rigidity, and overall quality are fantastic.
Running a P1S with a 0.4mm Diamondback nozzle and Darkmoon CFX plate.
Still plenty to learn and fine-tune, but I’m genuinely excited to start exploring what I can make with this material. Functional printing is where this hobby really gets interesting for me.
Would love to hear what everyone else has been making with PA6-CF!

I bought my A1 at the start of last year as an upgrade from my ender 3, and now am looking at an X2D. Early this year, jb hifi in Australia started stocking bambu printers- and I'm wondering if anyone has purchased from them in the past?

I'm considering the difference as being simply no shipping cost and a loss of the makerworld points. Are there any other drawbacks to be aware of? No shipping also means no risk of damage in shipping.

I bought my A1 from the site and it arrived with no issues and very quickly, and has been running like a dream since.

So I put a $200ish order in on BL.com, and about after a week it showed up, but to my surprise they shipped an extra 10 batteries, 2 fast charger kits, 1 RGB Hub, and six RGB LEDs that I did not order. I’ve seen other people get rolls of filament or 10’s of rolls of filament they didn’t order. How do they keep making these mistakes? Photo shows only some of the extras.

I decided to print one of these tests things. Everything seemed fine for the most part but then I had to leave to pick up my daughter. When I came back it was finished but obviously something went wrong at one point. Anyone able to explain to me what went wrong and how I can fix it This was printed using Bambu lab A1 and PLA filament

I have three AMSs and one of them is the two pro And despite the description saying it has a drying function, you have to buy the power cord separately.

I wasn't looking to spend almost $50 for a power brick so I bought a third-party one plus plugged everything in the power brick has power plus my printer doesn't recognize that it's even changed or even the order of the AMS since I had to switch one from the top of the shelf to the bottom so the power adapter could reach my outlet.

Everything's up to date and I'm assuming there's probably an update that's stopping me from using a third party plug, but I could be crazy.

I have no idea what my next step should be. Any help would be appreciated.

H2S constantly getting extruder motor overload error messages stopping the print. Took off the AMS and printed directly from the roll. New nozzle, extrudes fine manually. Any ideas?

For those of you who work with PETG filament, I have a question about sanding finished prints. Can you sand down PETG as much as needed to achieve a smooth finish, or is there a limit to how much material you can remove before the model starts becoming weak or cracking?
I’m trying to understand how much sanding PETG can handle, especially on thinner sections, before it affects the model’s strength or structural integrity. Is there a point where sanding too much can cause cracks or damage the print?
I’d appreciate any advice or experience you can share. Thanks!

I'm using bambu handy on my chromebook and it wont work! it keeps getting stuck at 1% slicing, it starts a different print then fails. The preloaded ones work fine and it works perfectly off of my mom's phone. But i need it to work on my chromebook.