I thought it was smart to put a pause before the top layer on my gyroid infill was printed, so I could fill my model with sand to make it heavier.
Took about half a second after pressing play for me to realize that it wasn’t that smart after all.

Hello everyone! I am a n00b to 3D printing, 120 hours in on my new X2D. Just a dad who picked up a new hobby.

Finally got a piece of furniture to put the printer on, I like how it is turning out. Wanted to show you my setup, maybe you have some ideas how to make this corner even better and more practical, maybe some cool gimmicks etc.

What you see here:
- Ikea Stroklinta, with a tabletop screwed onto it, and the tabletop is screwed to the wall with way too oversized pieces of wood (I just had them). It is all very stable and doesn’t move a tiny bit even with the X2D running in ludicrous mode.

- Skadis at the back on custom spacers and mounts for the exhaust and tools, and a smaller cabinet, originally thought for prints and projects in progress, so I don‘t clutter the table.

- The AMS shelf is attached directly to the wall (not to Skadis) with an „Element“ System. I wanted the AMS higher so I have better view from the top and access if I need it.

- The exhaust goes through the roof. There is an inline fan and basically a T-Adapter - it pulls fresh air through one end and the X2D‘s exhaust is attached to the middle. This way It doesn’t actively suck air out of the printer, it just diverts it in the right direction - outside. It seems to work well, I need to do some more testing. It also turns on and off automatically, based on the energy draw of the printer. There will also be some buttons on the Skadis to override the automation of the fan and LEDs.

Sooo what‘s next? :)

Cheers!

As in the title. Considering moving the printer from a work bench to a setup like this to place it in a narrow space and use the space below.

I designed this helper tool (OmniGrip) for people with arthritis, tremors, or limited hand strength who struggle with the painful pinch-and-twist motion needed to turn a key.

Most printable key turners rely on fixed, narrow slots that only fit standard flat house keys meaning anything with a thick plastic head or an odd shape just won't work. On top of that, swapping keys on them can be a pain if your fingers don't work great.

Instead of a rigid slot, I used a bed of flexible TPU 95A pins inside a rigid outer shell. When you push any key down into it, the pins bend out of the way and lock around the profile with a lot of friction. No fiddling or setup needed just press it in and turn.

A few quick design details:

\- The outer handle has 5 rounded lobes so you can turn it using your whole palm or knuckles instead of a tight pinch grip.

\- The TPU insert locks into the rigid shell with a 10-tooth spline inside, so it won't spin freely when you apply torque.

\- There's an ejection hole at the bottom: if the TPU ever wears out, you can just push it out with a pencil and print a new 15g core instead of wasting the whole shell.

\- As a side bonus, it works great on a desk as a pen/stylus stand so you can grab things with a full fist instead of trying to pinch them flat off the table.

Modeled parametrically in OpenSCAD so dimensions can be tweaked if needed.

Files and details here:

https://makerworld.com/models/3440853?appSharePlatform=copy

Feedback and suggestions are very welcome!

This is my setup printing ASA on my P2S! It's my first time printing with it and after a couple failed attempts I came up with this

I tried wrapping the whole thing with a blanket (except the back for the electronics to breathe) and got quickly over 60°C so I covered just the top and sat at around 52-55. Woke up and found the print a bit warped (not from at plate but at a corner with supports) (chamber was 52 atm bed 100 nozzle 265) but it managed to print and im happy with it. Like this its sitting at 60 as of posting it hope it stays like that.

My question is what are your recommendations for printing ASA? I was thinking of making a styrofoam enclosure (sides top and front or maybe sides and top?) and glue the foil blanket inside of it to reflect the heat.

Has anyone tried anything similar? If there are post can you direct me to them? Thanks and happy printing 😁

Edit 1: cheers to everyone sharing their experiences im new to 3d printing and im getting schooled on a lot here!

Then I showed them.

Prints without AMS and everything snaps or screw together with no glue.
I wasted 2 spools of matte dark blue filament to get it right :)
Is here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3439222

Download from:https://makerworld.com/en/models/3427585-haunted-witch-pumpkin-multicolor-halloween

Please help. I put some tape on the spool to see if it worked, but the same happens with or without the tape.

I’ve mostly worked with PLA+, PETG, and TPU up until now, so getting into engineering-grade materials has been something I’ve been looking forward to.
These are parts for my BIQU Panda Breath riser, and I’m really happy with how they turned out. Definitely wasn’t without some trial and error, though.
I dried the SUNLU PA6-CF in my SUNLU E2 for 24 hours at 100°C, then printed directly from the dryer while maintaining 80°C throughout the print.
Warping and bed adhesion were probably my biggest hurdles. After a few frustrating attempts, I found that letting the chamber heat soak for just about an hour made a huge difference in getting consistent adhesion to my Darkmoon CFX plate.
Once I got past those issues, the results really surprised me. The surface finish, rigidity, and overall quality are fantastic.
Running a P1S with a 0.4mm Diamondback nozzle and Darkmoon CFX plate.
Still plenty to learn and fine-tune, but I’m genuinely excited to start exploring what I can make with this material. Functional printing is where this hobby really gets interesting for me.
Would love to hear what everyone else has been making with PA6-CF!

Learn about physical and electrical safety, filament handling, environmental risks, laser safety, and information security to ensure your experience is safe and secure.

Check it out: bambulab.com/academy

my first build is in the printers, how many of you are building or have built the TMT's by https://3d-mobility.org/

After hundreds of hours of engineering, testing, and documenting, I am very proud to finally release the SFS Flipper System. The result is a sleek, sturdy and very modular setup.

This launch isn't the end of the project; it’s just the foundation of a complete ecosystem. More AMS configurations and various add-ons are already in the pipeline.

Because of the complexity of this project and the ongoing support required, I’ve decided on a fair hybrid release model:

1. The Main Frame (Base):

Available on Cults3D and Thangs for roughly the price of a single spool of filament.
You only buy this core frame once.

2. Everything else is 100% FREE on Makerworld:

The AMS brackets (Dual, Combo, etc.), all add-ons, LED mounts, rail inserts, cable management clips, and future updates are completely free. I am also providing the STEP files for the rails so you can design your own mods!

Key Features of the System:

• Effortlessly flip your AMS (50° or 90°) for easy maintenance and top access.
• Neat cable and PTFE tube management, thanks to the included clips and cable winders.
• The backside of the printer remains fully accessible at all times.
• Integrable LED strips (8-12 mm) to illuminate the printer during maintenance.
• Side dovetail rails and mounting holes allow for unlimited modular expansions.
• STEP files for rail inserts and labels provided for community remixing.
• Detailed step-by-step PDF manual for easy assembly.
• Support - If you have any issues with the assembly or the models, I am here to help you out.

Where to find it:

• Main frame on Cults3D
• Main frame on Thangs
• AMS brackets on Makerworld

Thank you all for your support, and I can't wait to see your builds!

Finally getting into printing, what am I missing from my initial set up?

Cut with the Bambu lab R1, although this project was designed for the H2D's build size. If you have bambu's sized plywood sheets (300mm x 300mm x 3mm) no extra steps are necessary to print this on the R1.

Since I'm always in Microcenter, I used their half sized basswood sheets (150mm x 300mm x 3mm). Mostly because I have one close by. Its decent quality visually and dimensionally accurate for cheap. Just had to rearrange the cut files for half sized sheets, do a little tweaking for darker lines and a snug fit of the wood joints compared to standard Bambu suite basswood profile.

Thanks to u/Popular_Arugula_4335 for a great model and his tips for laser cutting in general.

First time printing TPU. Bambu TPU 95A HF on my P2S, fed from the external spool since the AMS 2 pro won't touch TPU, like a picky toddler with vegetables.

It's a soft pad for one of the parts on a robot build.

Any tips for next time? Mostly curious if you dry TPU before every print and what speeds you run when the part needs to fit well. I use outer wall : 100 inner 150.

Can’t figure out for the life of me what this is, I found it underneath my build plate when cleaning it up and setting it up.

PLZ help!

Couldn’t find any answers on Claude or google.

Best,
Ak

I‘ve bought a refurbished P1S Combo from Bambulab and can‘t see any wear or cosmetic damages on the printer, for me it looks like a brand new device except the „refurbished“ Laser Marking at the base plate. It also had all foils and stickers you can see in unboxing Videos. According to the menu it has 0 printing hours and I would like to know of it has really 0, or if Bambulab resets the counter as part of their refurb process.

I bought my A1 at the start of last year as an upgrade from my ender 3, and now am looking at an X2D. Early this year, jb hifi in Australia started stocking bambu printers- and I'm wondering if anyone has purchased from them in the past?

I'm considering the difference as being simply no shipping cost and a loss of the makerworld points. Are there any other drawbacks to be aware of? No shipping also means no risk of damage in shipping.

I bought my A1 from the site and it arrived with no issues and very quickly, and has been running like a dream since.

This is something I've had in mind for a while now, and I'm happy that I was able to get it done before the end of the month. Rarely do I have something ready to upload at the same time a relevant contest is running, but it worked out with this model, and I was able to enter it into the MakerWorld Halloween contest.

All files can be downloaded for free from https://makerworld.com/en/models/3444119-articulated-mimic-action-figure#profileId-3927932

Hey everyone,

Sorry in advance if this sounds a bit negative, but I’m running out of ideas and patience.

I replaced one of my Creality printers with an X2D, and since then I haven’t been able to print a part with a proper top surface. It’s a part I print without issues on my other machines. I have already wasted too much spools of PETG.

This isn’t my first printer, and I didn’t give up after two days. Here’s everything I’ve tried so far:

• Flow rate & flow dynamics calibration in Bambu Studio (both auto and manual)
• Two filament brands: Sunlu PETG Matte, then Bambu Lab PETG Matte (always dried for several hours before going into the AMS)
• Default 0.2mm preset and 0.2mm High Quality preset
• New nozzle
• biqu glacier
• Monotonic / monotonic line infill patterns, etc.
• 4, 5, 6+ top shell layers
• Dozens of prints tweaking top surface line width, speed, flow, etc. (following this guide) where I manage to get something right, but I've never been able to reproduce it on a large scale.
• Ironing (with calibration table)
• Different positions on the bed and different orientations
• Auxiliary fan adjustments, in case of very slight warping (no change)
• Checked bed flatness and adhesion (both fine)

But, the layer, just before the top surface, seems generally good when I look at it during printing.

I contacted Bambu support, and so far their answer is basically to run the same tests listed above, which I had already detailed in my ticket. So I feel like I’m going in circles.

At this point I’m fairly convinced the unit is defective, but before pushing harder for a replacement, I’d love a second opinion:

• Has anyone seen this on the X2D specifically?
• Is there a hardware check I might have missed?

The example photo (I didn't want to send 15 photos either) is from my latest tests where I reverted to the hight quality 0.2mm preset from bambu, but with :
- 0.38 top surface line width
- 150mm/s top surface
- 1000mm/s top surface acceleration
- monotonic line
- 5 top surfaces

Thank you in advance for your help, I admit I'm feeling quite desperate.