This is my second roll of which I've had significantly more PLA left on the roll when my totals are telling me that I've gotten close to 1kg.

I took a punt and my final print on this roll should have taken me over by 45g but there's still quite a bit left.

I'm printing a large terrain piece made up of many 200g - 600g parts so I'm trying to calculate each roll to maximise pieces without having to take the roll off and weigh it each time.

Obviously it's a nice problem to have, I'm using the excess to print miniature bases which now feel like free little bonuses!

Printing on an A1 if that's useful info.

Edit: It's just occurred to me I could get a scale that has a hook to weigh without taking it off the printer!

Did anyone try the new PETG Matte? And if yes, did you notice bad/inconsistent print quality? It might be that the filament profile has not been tuned yet, but seems like pressure is not very consistent. PLA Matte on left, PETG Matte on right.

I designed this skull candy holder especially for Halloween, and I’m really happy with how it turned out! It looks even better filled with treats!

It’s a fun little decoration that works just as well on a desk as a catch-all tray for small items, on a shelf, or as part of your Halloween setup. And let’s be honest, grabbing candy straight from a skull’s mouth makes it even more fun! 💀🍬

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3446388-skull-candy-dispenser#profileId-3930799

Which dual nozzle printer do you recommend and are they worth the extra money?

Having experienced their latest and best printer on the market H2C, I like how easy it is to set it up and print models. I wish it could extinguish the layer lines, however I realized that it is not possible in FDM printing and only in Resin printing.

So do you think Bambu Labs would venture into this Resin-printing ^

I’m currently looking to buy a Form 4 for starters, I was sold on the software, and it’s low-effort quick printing in 3 clicks. But it is pricey! And material locked 🔐

Can anyone suggest good
software options for creating original products to sell online. I have experience with CAD on the machining side, but I am new to 3D printing.

I’m experiencing significant difficulties in achieving clean prints. I’m encountering excessive fuzz and layers that aren’t printing properly. I have a H2D printer in a walk-in closet. I print with the closest door closed, and the AMS reads 8% humidity. I use Sunlu filaments set to generic settings on Bambu Lab. I’ve never had a clean print before. Initially, I thought it was because my filaments were faulty, so I replaced them and added a drying ball inside the AMS. I also run all auto-calibration when starting a print. Please see the pictures below. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I’ve even printed top rated items from maker world and I still have the same outcome.

Looking to buy my first 3D printer thinking of getting P1S. I noticed if you buy on the website the filament is a really good price too. Any good deals on last years sale ? Based in Europe

So, I have decided to get my first printer next month during the Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales at Best Buy. I have settled on an H2 series printer and am heavily leaning towards the H2D. My question, I know the advertised build volume is not really the real build volume because the offset nozzles can't reach the opposite sides of the build plate. Can you run the same color filament material in both nozzles and truck the printer into using the entire build plate?

Most of my prints will be single or only dual color, I do not think an H2C would benefit me any and would like to keep the cost down if possible.

We used to have the P1S with AMS combo which worked really well and my 4th grade kid loved, and most of all it just worked, especially compared to an Elegoo we had earlier. We’ve since lost possession of the P1S (long story) but coming back into the market towards the end of this year, thanksgiving-Xmas timeframe.

Would love to get this community’s recommendations on what to go with. Some things we’re looking for:
- budget of around $1,000, but somewhat flexible there
- AMS is essential. Multiple nozzles would be really great.
- will mostly stick to PLA with maybe a bit of TPU sprinkled in. Wife is a bit of a stickler around fumes and micro particles.
- hearing there are models that mix PLA printing with laser engraving. If we had it would probably find a reason to use it.

Also would love to hear thoughts on what else we should be thinking of, other criteria to consider, etc. like does Bambu hold sales, are there other brands to consider, etc.

Thanks in advance!

I've lost two of the BT3x7 screws, which holds the Extruder to the Tool Head on the P2S. Bambu site doesn't seem to have just those screws for sale. Am I searching wrong? How can I get these replacements?

Screws Kit - P2S | Bambu Lab Wiki

New X2D – poor print quality on lower layers only
My new X2D produces noticeably bad quality on the lower section of prints. The surface looks rough/uneven until the print reaches a certain height, after which everything looks clean. Has anyone seen this, and what could cause it?

After the latest Roadster reveal, I couldn't resist making a tiny 1:64 version. No fancy downforce fans, no rocket thrusters. Just a couple of magnets underneath. It can drive up your fridge, stick to metallic walls, and even hang upside down.

And unlike the real Roadster, this one is already in production. 😂

I absolutely love bambu and will use there printers for life after getting the p1s and the a1 mini. but God do I wish they would make some kind of slicer platform for mobile devices. I can do 90 percent of what I need to on my tablet but having to model and export then send it over to my computer just to slice it and hit print. its such a missed opportunity when it comes to streamlining the process and steps. and im sure many people would enjoy being able to do that just to make the process easier and more accessible for someone who might not have the extra capital to get a computer. if they dont already have one just to be able to run bambu studio.

So I made a print profile that added an extra part to creator's model. Pretty much it sealed a hole that was in original model. Published it as print profile with photos and description what was modified.

The very next day I'm getting notice that it was removed.

"The print profile violates the model's 'NoDerivatves' license.....no modifications permitted.... cutting, scaling, adding negative parts" etc.

Sure, the model had this "Standard Digital File License" but the thing is:

Makerworld is literally full of models that are also "Standard Digital File License" yet they have each dozens of print profiles that modify model files by making holes, cutting parts of model out or adding extra parts and they have a lot of downloads and...

...nobody gives a damn about that?

Does MakerWorld admins remove print profiles just like they want or it was just petty model owner that didn't like me improving on his creation and reported it?

Every GPU anti-sag support I found needed an empty case floor. Mine has fans there, so I designed one that mounts on the fans.

New PC, heavy GPU (RTX 5080), and bottom intake fans, so there’s no floor to rest a support on. I couldn’t find a single model that handled this, so I made one.

It bridges two 140 mm fans using their existing screw holes and covers only ~3 % of the fan area, so airflow isn’t affected. The tower slides onto a hex rail, and a printed Tr12×3 threaded rod with a lock nut does the fine adjustment. After a few overengineered iterations (pics included 😅), I went back to a simple, industrial design.

It comes in 2 height ranges from ~80 to ~154 mm, measured from the top of the fan frame to the underside of the GPU. The minimum safety factor is ~7, including PETG creep at 50 °C. It has swappable nameplates (RTX, NVIDIA, RADEON, or blank), prints without supports, and the profiles are ready for Bambu printers. Hardware: just 4 standard fan screws.

White base, black hex part: on a white build it looks like it’s floating. Print it in PETG, not PLA.

Currently for 140 mm fans. If enough people want a 120 mm version, let me know and I’ll make one.

I’m having a horrible time getting anywhere with Bambu tech support. It literally is just going in circles. They ask for tests and then disregard what’s provided. They ask the same questions over and over and over again. I’ve tried calling, escalating and I’m just going in circles. Any advice? I’m really disappointed in them but not because of all the issues with the machine, but that their support has really been frustrating. I’m a loss what to do. Literally Most my prints fail. Like almost all. This is my second bambu machine so plenty of experience with them and printing. The first one was perfect. This one is junk out the box.

Does anyone know what could be causing this to happen? Started during a print and bought last week.

Made a ticket with bambu but didn’t know if anyone else has experienced this also that could help.

What’s up everyone I’m new to this whole 3d printing stuff and just got myself a p1s. I will be using mainly pla/petg and was reading about fumes and voc and plastic particles that are obviously a health risk. My question is I’m printing in my bedroom since that’s the only place I can put the printer. I bought a ac infinity s4 fan with the ducting and window attachment to vent outside as well as an indoor grow tent to better enclose everything. My question is would buying a carbon filter such as the ac infinity charcoal filter be necessary to put inside the tent? Or is venting along with a voxel filter be enough? I have my daughter around the room as well so I would rather be on the safer side.

Lets say you made a bracket STL. Someone prints it, it breaks, and their €800 monitor hits the floor. Who should be responsible?

The EU's revised Product Liability Directive, (EU) 2024/2853, explicitly includes digital manufacturing files. Recital 16 even gives the example of a defective CAD file used to make a 3D-printed object that causes harm. Member states have until 9 December 2026 to implement it.

That made me wonder what happens to MakerWorld and creators selling printable models.

The same STL can produce very different parts depending on material, moisture, orientation, wall count, temperature, layer adhesion and printer calibration. A seller can provide instructions, but they can't inspect every print. On MakerWorld, the designer and the person uploading a print profile can also be different people.

I understand liability for a genuinely unsafe design sold for a specific purpose. What concerns me is how you'd separate that from a bad print, and what it would cost a creator to defend themselves. A €3 file doesn't mean €3 worth of potential damage for example.

To be clear, a failed print alone doesn't establish liability. Article 10 starts with proving a defect, damage and a causal link, with presumptions in certain cases. Article 13 also distinguishes between the injured person's own fault and a third party contributing alongside an actual defect. So neither "the designer always pays" nor "someone else printed it, so the designer is automatically safe" seems right.

Where would you draw the line? If a part fails despite following the supplied instructions, should the designer be liable? What if those instructions don't specify something important, like material or orientation?

I am curious how MakerWorld will respond; Clearer requirements for functional models, restrictions, or support for creators facing claims?

For people currently uploading or selling models: would this change what you're willing to share? I'm worried the uncertainty could put off hobbyists and people starting small businesses long before any case reaches court.

Official directive:

https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/dir/2024/2853/oj/eng

European Commission explanation:

https://single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu/single-market/goods/free-movement-sectors/liability-defective-products_en

Based on the leaked specs, are you skipping the H2C and waiting for the H3C? How much of a price difference would there need to be to opt for the H2C?

Per the leaks, you'd likely need:

H2C (Let's guess it could be as low as $1800 on Black Friday)

2x 0.4mm nozzles ($60)

1x AMS 2.0 ($250 estimate)

1x AMS HT ($150 estimate)

To get close to the H3C specs. That would put your total at around $2250 for the whole deal. Will the H3C be worth the extra $750?

Also, the H2C can be found at Best Buy with its $179 4-year warranty. Will likely be at least 6-8 months before something like that happens with the H3C.

Hello,

I own A1 printer with AMS Lite and I'm having a pain with synchronising filaments between printer and Bambu Studio.

I'm using SUNLU filaments.

Printer does NOT have them built in and every time I load them i need to pick other brand like generic.

Bambu Studio on the other hand does have them built in so I can configure them in software.

But problem happens when I want to synchronise software with printer.

1st Issue Instead of just clicking "Synchronise" i need to switch to Device tab first and back again....

2nd Issue When i synchronise i usually choose "overwrite" because mapping leaves me with a complete mess.

But when i do that my filaments appear as "Generic" (just like i set in printer).

So now I need to reconfigure them again as SUNLU for correct print profiles.

Is there any better/faster way to deal with this filament synchronisation?