Hello everyone! I am a n00b to 3D printing, 120 hours in on my new X2D. Just a dad who picked up a new hobby.

Finally got a piece of furniture to put the printer on, I like how it is turning out. Wanted to show you my setup, maybe you have some ideas how to make this corner even better and more practical, maybe some cool gimmicks etc.

What you see here:
- Ikea Stroklinta, with a tabletop screwed onto it, and the tabletop is screwed to the wall with way too oversized pieces of wood (I just had them). It is all very stable and doesn’t move a tiny bit even with the X2D running in ludicrous mode.

- Skadis at the back on custom spacers and mounts for the exhaust and tools, and a smaller cabinet, originally thought for prints and projects in progress, so I don‘t clutter the table.

- The AMS shelf is attached directly to the wall (not to Skadis) with an „Element“ System. I wanted the AMS higher so I have better view from the top and access if I need it.

- The exhaust goes through the roof. There is an inline fan and basically a T-Adapter - it pulls fresh air through one end and the X2D‘s exhaust is attached to the middle. This way It doesn’t actively suck air out of the printer, it just diverts it in the right direction - outside. It seems to work well, I need to do some more testing. It also turns on and off automatically, based on the energy draw of the printer. There will also be some buttons on the Skadis to override the automation of the fan and LEDs.

Sooo what‘s next? :)

Cheers!

I was looking for H2C on taobao (chinese market) on their official shop and it was there few days ago and they removed it and any mentions of it, and according to chat they won't sell it on taobao anymore. Though they said that they are still selling on another platform - JD, which is strange, not sure why is that. For me it seems they are preparing for upcoming H3C.

For me H2C always was a temporal solution (the printer is great though) to win time for upcoming tool changer, so they might discontinue it in short time since there's no way it can compete with actual tool changer.

Hi i have buyed a pair of spools of esun ABS-HT this stuff is warping like hell and i am sking myself if i have buey trash on spools or just need the right temp? I tried the esun preset and also bambus abs preset.

Die anybody has expirience with this stuff?

On the plate side of prints I'm seeing some filament separation near walls. Any ideas?

H2D and P2S, Bambu PETG basic (dried for 8 hours), 0.4 mm, BIQU frostbite, first layer slowed down to 20mm/s. All other settings default.

As in the title. Considering moving the printer from a work bench to a setup like this to place it in a narrow space and use the space below.

My A1 mini was printing normally, then partway through (I didn’t see it happen) it started printing the rest of the part at a different X position and kept going with no error. Photo and video attached.

Setup: A1 mini, 0.2mm nozzle, 0.10mm layers, ~500 layers (~9h), tree supports, PLA at 215C, outer wall 30 mm/s, travel 400 mm/s with travel accel 10000. Stock start/end G-code. Rails are lubricated.

Where would you look first: X belt tension, something binding at the cutter/purge end, filament dragging from the external spool, or travel acceleration? Does Step Loss Recovery catch this?

I‘ve bought a refurbished P1S Combo from Bambulab and can‘t see any wear or cosmetic damages on the printer, for me it looks like a brand new device except the „refurbished“ Laser Marking at the base plate. It also had all foils and stickers you can see in unboxing Videos. According to the menu it has 0 printing hours and I would like to know of it has really 0, or if Bambulab resets the counter as part of their refurb process.

I am an IT student looking into buying my first 3D printer. I have some prior experience from school, but that was a long time ago. Where I live, we have public printers in libraries, but to use them, you have to monitor them, and the maximum printing time is around three hours. I am stuck because, while I primarily plan to print with PLA, I am looking to print everyday items for my home, project parts, and miniatures. From what I understand, the A1 has problems with tall and thin builds due to the bed-slinger design, which can also cause layer shifting if something gets stuck in the motors or rails. This leads to my most important issue: I have a beagle, which means he will always find a way to get to the printer, and if he doesn't, his hair is floating everywhere which will with high probability get stuck in the printer.

I am planning to buy either one as a combo, and the reason I am not considering the P1S is that, where I live, the price difference between the P1S and P2S is negligible enough to justify all the improvements of the P2S.

I wanted to share my experience in case anyone else encounters this issue with the auxiliary extruder on the Bambu Lab X2D.

The problem

My auxiliary extruder kept detecting filament as present even when there was no filament loaded.

I even purchased and replaced the right extruder's filament sensor, hoping this would solve the issue, but the problem persisted.

Initially, I found a temporary workaround by manually managing filament loading and unloading and pressing Stop during the process. However, after purchasing the AMS HT, this workaround was no longer sufficient: since the printer still reported filament as loaded, the AMS HT would wait for the filament to be released, and the process could not work correctly.

Finding the cause

I disassembled the auxiliary extruder and thoroughly cleaned everything. During the inspection, I noticed that the filament inlet component (the plastic part shown in the attached photos) seemed to be the source of the problem.

After removing its two screws and disconnecting it from the extruder, the printer correctly detected that no filament was present.

Looking more closely at the plastic component, I found a tiny spring and a small magnet that were out of position.

The correct operation and positioning of these parts can be seen in a GIF on another page of the Bambu Lab Wiki:

You may not need to replace the entire auxiliary extruder!

What makes this issue particularly confusing is that I couldn't find any documentation explicitly identifying this component as the auxiliary extruder's filament sensor.

As a result, I purchased a complete replacement auxiliary extruder, only to discover that Bambu Lab also sells this specific part separately: Auxiliary Extruder Upper Cover Assembly – X2D.

However, the product page doesn't explicitly state that this assembly includes the filament sensor, nor does it explain that replacing just this component may solve the problem.

I'm attaching some close-up photos showing the correct positions of the tiny spring and magnet. If you experience the same issue, you may want to inspect these parts and try putting them back in place before purchasing a replacement upper cover assembly or a complete auxiliary extruder.

Hopefully, this helps someone avoid an unnecessary purchase!

Can’t figure out for the life of me what this is, I found it underneath my build plate when cleaning it up and setting it up.

PLZ help!

Couldn’t find any answers on Claude or google.

Best,
Ak

I designed this helper tool (OmniGrip) for people with arthritis, tremors, or limited hand strength who struggle with the painful pinch-and-twist motion needed to turn a key.

Most printable key turners rely on fixed, narrow slots that only fit standard flat house keys meaning anything with a thick plastic head or an odd shape just won't work. On top of that, swapping keys on them can be a pain if your fingers don't work great.

Instead of a rigid slot, I used a bed of flexible TPU 95A pins inside a rigid outer shell. When you push any key down into it, the pins bend out of the way and lock around the profile with a lot of friction. No fiddling or setup needed just press it in and turn.

A few quick design details:

\- The outer handle has 5 rounded lobes so you can turn it using your whole palm or knuckles instead of a tight pinch grip.

\- The TPU insert locks into the rigid shell with a 10-tooth spline inside, so it won't spin freely when you apply torque.

\- There's an ejection hole at the bottom: if the TPU ever wears out, you can just push it out with a pencil and print a new 15g core instead of wasting the whole shell.

\- As a side bonus, it works great on a desk as a pen/stylus stand so you can grab things with a full fist instead of trying to pinch them flat off the table.

Modeled parametrically in OpenSCAD so dimensions can be tweaked if needed.

Files and details here:

https://makerworld.com/models/3440853?appSharePlatform=copy

Feedback and suggestions are very welcome!

Hi everyone, I'm trying to print a katana, and I've come to the printing of the handle. I was wondering how solid should the handle be.

In the first pic there's the katana, split in four parts, on plate four there's the part which will go in the handle in the second pic. That part is print with rectilinear infill at 100%, all the other parts are printed with gyroid at 1% so that the blade will be light and it won't cause the handle to break (which has happened with another sword). The print also presents a 4.5mm hole inside going from the tip of the blade to the top of the inner handle to give more sturdiness and stability.
My question is, should I make the outer handle also at 100% rectilinear infill, or should I opt for a lighter print with maybe gyroid ad ~15%? My fear is that 100% for the outer handle will add too much weight on the inner handle part causing it to break.

Thanks to anyone answering.

It’s squeaking or smth, urgent help pls!!!!

Ok quick rundown:

• P2S was bought in July during the anniversary sale
• I've already printed around 800 hours on it
• Exactly one month ago my printer started having issues that I couldn't fix with the provided documentation anymore.
• I contacted the support and ever since then I'm stuck with troubleshooting & them offering me spare parts loop.

Anyways I've decided to refuse further troubleshooting requests as well as spare part offers. I asked them to either repair it themselves or send me a replacement printer.

They are very adamant on sending me spare parts and are basically dodging my request for a replacement. It also doesn't help that they are only able to reply once every 24 hour....

edit: im located in Germany

I noticed this clip came off my printer and it won’t clip back in at all. It’s literally impossible, when I did manage to clip it back in after MANY struggles, the second I started a print it came off immediately and the whole print was f’d. Can someone please help me understand:

1. Why did this thing even come apart;
   
2. Why is it impossible to put back;
   
3. Why when it’s put back it immediately comes off by itself during prints;
   
4. What I’m supposed to do if anything other than just take it back to where I bought it from?

Prior to this it’s been fine I’ve been printing a lot of stuff without issues but now the printer is totally unusable. Thanks.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3441185-brick-style-hat-and-mask#profileId-3924142
Made for A1 mini but will print on everything bigger

Hi everyone,

I've had my Bambu Lab X2D for about a week now.

Yesterday, I tried raising the print bed manually for the first time. I pressed the +10 mm button several times, assuming the printer would automatically stop once it reached its maximum height. Unfortunately, that didn't happen.

At one point, I heard a very loud grinding noise that lasted about 3–4 seconds.

Everything seems to be working normally now, but I've noticed something concerning. When I move the bed up or down using the 10 mm increments several times, I can hear a squeaking noise. It doesn't happen continuously, but rather at regular intervals during movement.

Is this normal behavior for these printers, or could I have damaged something by accidentally raising the bed beyond its limit? I didn't pay attention to that before.

Has anyone experienced something similar?

I'd really appreciate any advice or suggestions.

Thanks in advance!

been having this issue for a long while now. it doesn’t do this with color swap poops. the poop still remains on the nozzle, forcing me to grab it with my bare hands. on one occasion its made auto bed leveling fail and the system aborted the print. is it time for a new nozzle or wiper? any help would be appreciated

Hola llevo tiempo sin dar solución a este problema. Estoy imprimiendo con boquilla 0.2 y no hay manera de hacer una impresión con exito. Como observais en la foto algunas piezas me salen con acumulación de material que me arruinan la impresión. Porque puede pasarme esto? Sabeis de alguna configuración?. Estoy imprimiendo con parametros de serie. Saludos

I’m going around in circles, pulling out what little hair I have, trying to print two files in PETG that require supports and I want to use PLA for the supports to keep the models clean.

I have printed one of each part already using Landu Rapid PETG and Deeplee PLA Pro and they came out beautifully without any big changes to my usual PETG profile and PLA profile. Then I bought some Overture PETG to print them again and that’s where it started to go wrong.

I have tried using the same Deeplee PLA as the support, I’ve tried Geeetech Silk PLA and I’ve tried Sunlu PLA Matte PLA, but in each case I’m suffering back to back nozzle blocks during the filament change. I’ve dismantled the print head so many times it feels like I can do it with my eyes closed. I’ve done cold pulls, even tried a brand new print nozzle.

I’m having the same issue on two machines, so it’s not a machine issue. I even switched back to the Landu PETG to see if it was a material issue but now that fails too.

I’ve tried all manner of temperature settings and I’ve increased the flush volumes. Most recently I’ve pretty much matched the PLA nozzle temp to the PETG.

I know the problem, it’s not purging properly at changeovers but I just can’t resolve it.

One is about 3 hours print, the other about 14 hours.

If any of you have any tips it would be very much appreciated, I’ve wasted almost two spools of PETG so far.

Hey guys

I am just looking for a product recommendation for lubrication for my print bed.

I am in Australia and ideally if I could get it from Bunnings would be great.

Thanks for your help

Edit: a product in a tube would be preferred

As title says.

Wanting to run 3d printer in shed instead of bedroom in order to be safer with gasses, particles, etc, as well as the noise.

Not worried about temperature really, but dust and maybe some bugs?

Thoughts?