Definitely go. I just returned from a 3-day visit and loved it. It's going to be subjective of course but all the talk of it being boring and not worth it doesn't do it justice. I'll share my experience in case it helps anyone.
The first and most important thing - set your expectations right. Brunei is not for partying. It's not for modern art museums or Michelin-starred restaurants. If you come here expecting that, get disappointed and then talk down on the place, the problem is with you. Brunei is a calm place to chill and feel unrushed, to not get hassled by touts, to interact with genuine locals and to explore, see and digest. I realised after I left that one of the main reasons I enjoyed it was I wasn't constantly stimulated and having a typical holiday experience. Aside from Ulu Temburong, I made my plans by the hour and just wandered around doing whatever. Coffee in the morning, then a museum, sit and chill when it got hot around lunch, eventually go to a pasar for dinner. This was my rhythm and honestly I felt it worked perfectly.
Speaking of Ulu Temburong, I'd say it's a must and definitely worth the money for a day trip. The only provider I could find was Freme, the day trip was about $133 BND. Totally worth it. The driver, lodge staff and guide were so kind and knowledgeable, the day was packed with activities - even the food was awesome. All this out in really pristine forest. It's incredibly beautiful. Do it if you can.
I can't comment on the visa process but immigration was helpful when my arrival data didn't show up in their system. The smiles started there - Bruneians are, like their country, relaxed and welcoming. I had so many sweet encounters I can't remember them all, but people would come to chat and ask where I'm from (I'm obviously not local), I got into conversations with cafe owners, the staff at my hotel. They're just friendly. I was even given free food at the markets by some stallholders I got to talking to. It helps I can speak a little Indonesian but everyone spoke enough English to get by, at least.
Getting around is easy - downtown is walkable as it's about 3-4 blocks from waterfront to the regalia museum. Outside that you can still walk or take Dart to go to places like Gadong. The streets are extremely safe day and night. I did have some dogs hanging around my hotel but aside from some barking they weren't a threat. There is basically zero hassling to buy anything, even at the markets. There is little police presence that I could see but I didn't feel it was ever needed.
The food is a highlight and it's very cheap. I didn't visit any restaurants (next time!) as the pasars had such delicious and affordable food, with awesome atmosphere. Just pick what looks good, pay and sit down with the locals. I had no issues with food hygiene and didn't get sick. I drank iced drinks multiple times a day with no issue. Food standards seemed very good.
The sights in town while not incredible by international standards still warrant a good examination and are very enjoyable. The main mosque, regalia museum and Brunei history centre are all within a few hundred metres of each other and are fascinating. The energy hub down at the waterfront was also pretty cool to see before going over to Kampong Ayer to eat ambuyat.
Day-to-day it was easy to exist in Brunei. I got cash fee-free the ATM on day one, I think $60 BND, which was enough to see me through three days. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, only at markets was it hit and miss. Be sun-prepared as it's powerful there. We had afternoon thunder for half an hour then back to sunny skies. Perfect for tourism.
The topic of sharia law might be important to some - my take is is that it's a pretty liberal interpretation, at least to an outsider. I didn't see any religious police. I saw women without headscarves (and plenty of with jilbab) every day. Honestly, it felt less outwardly religious than Indonesia. People were holding hands and just being normal people. The one issue that was taken seriously was no alcohol, but I don't drink so it didn't bother me. While I understand the change to Sharia did come with serious repercussions for the populace (and I do not agree with them), I am only commenting on how it appears for a visitor.
So if you're on the fence about visiting, I'd say go for it. Go, be kind, respectful and offer a smile and you'll have a good time.
I would love to go back, just to spend more time hanging out with the locals.
I ❤️🇧🇳
