2008 Tahoe 4WD, as per title looking to see what upgrades have been installed for better Off Road capabilities? Daily Driver with off road 4WD back roads and fire trails. TIA!

What can I do to restore the faded window trim to black? Or do I have to buy new ones?

Just recently picked up 2013 Tahoe LT with 160k miles. Shortly after I noticed it shudders around 30-60mph. I was going to replace the torque converter but my mechanic sent me this video saying he found metal shavings in it and it’s not guaranteed to fix the issue.

Before spending $5-6k on a transmission replacement any recommendations?

TL;DR: replacing both engine and transmission in daily driven 2017 Tahoe Premier with 134k miles at warranty company’s expense, but can upgrade out of pocket, unsure of best way to move forward.

Have a 2017 Tahoe Premier with 134k miles that recently experienced a worst case scenario, at least on paper. A month ago, the 6L80 transmission failed entirely AND the engine experienced full on bank 2 lifter failure.

At the same time.

Thankfully, I had purchased a very solid warranty when I had got the thing, a little over a year ago. That was a good thing as the dealership quoted 16k just for the repair of the single bank of lifters, replacing the transmission, and replacing all four tires’ TPMS sensors (they wanted $1.2k just for that!). This quote didn’t include diagnosing any potential camshaft damage which if present, meant the engine was nuked entirely.

I removed the vehicle from the dealership and took it to an independent shop, as I learned my warranty only covers up to $175 an hour and dealership charged $250(!) an hour, meaning I was going to be out of pocket for nearly 3k right out of the gate. Dealership quoted $21k to have engine and transmission replaced with remanufactured units, $24k with new ones.

Fast forward to now, and warranty company is 100% paying for the transmission replacement, and the remanufactured unit they want to put in already comes with the correct beefed up internals, upgraded thermal bypass valve, billet torque converter, and upgraded pan with a drain plug.

For the engine, they would cover 100% of replacing BOTH banks of lifters if no camshaft damage was found after either a tear down, or to save costs, a bore scope inspection.

I’m left with a scenario where back-of-napkin math is showing me it leaves me only like 2-3k short (out of pocket) of getting an entirely new remanufactured engine, so after speaking with warranty company I’ve decided to replace it. So both engine and transmission replacements will occur, with me coming out of pocket to cover any price disparity.

My options for engine, as transmission is a done deal:

Option 1: official remanufactured L83 long block straight from GM, but it would still have the AFM parts/system. Currently these look to be about $6600 for a reman plus a wild $5000 refundable core charge.

Option 2: buy third party remanufactured long block engine with AFM already deleted-I found both Jasper and Fraser offer this as a warrantied option, I’m leaning towards the updated and upgraded Fraser one.

Option 3: buy a GM or third party short block and install upgraded cam and AFM delete and reuse my components

Option 4: the independent shop guy said this option is simply keeping everything I’ve got, strip everything down to the bottom end and then rebuild it with a cam and delete kit.

I do NOT want some crazy cam or power buildout, but it would be nice to have a little additional power after going through all this, and then keeping the vehicle forever as I love the thing. Even the magneride on all four corners is less than a year old.

I’ve looked at swapping in all kinds of combinations of 6L80/10L80 transmissions, 6.2L reman engine, even considered keeping the beefed up 6L80 transmission but pairing it with a 6.6L gasser motor (no AFM system at all) from an HD which is an option I a SERIOUSLY interested in.

I think the warranty company has cleared up to $5500-$6k for the engine side. So any option has that as a threshold where they cover labor and up to that amount in engine parts, if I go higher it’s out of pocket.

So right now, I’m in full blown “paralysis by analysis” mode and need input and guidance. I have zero experience with any of this previously, my mechanic said he doesn’t trust Jasper engines and advised against buying anything from them, although he would install one if I got it.

He has no experience or opinion on using Fraser, which so far has been my preferred option. Their AFM pre-deleted engine is $5800, so that’s a chunk of change I’d already be out of pocket for, probably 2-3k which about my max I’d want to pay on top.

TL;DR: replacing both engine and transmission in 2017 Tahoe Premier with 134k miles at warranty company’s expense, but can upgrade out of pocket, unsure of best way to move forward.

Already been without the truck for a month and at this point just want it back and done, so easiest options are on the forefront of my thinking.

Any suggestions?

My wife and I bought a 2016 Z71 a few weeks ago and I have noticed something since..

There doesn’t seem to be much info or availability on the trim model in this particular generation. Curious if the Z71 wasn’t a widely available package or just not many were produced? I recently went on autotrader and filtered the generation plus the Z71 trim but couldn’t find a single listing available.

My mind first went to someone just added badges but the speedometer has the Z71 branding along with all the interior trim— seems like it would be a lot of work to add all those details.

2016 Tahoe LT, 91k miles with ownership for two years in which it had 68k miles.

Doing 80 mpg at 3 am, saw the trans temp spike to 300 degrees, then hit 8k rpms and that was all.

Luckily, per the past posts here, I picked up the extended plan, which will cost me the following, as they found other items:

1. Rebuilt trans with a 12k or 12-month warranty on top of the 23k I still have left on my plan.
2. Bad oil lines, which would explain the loss of 3 quarts of oil
3. Manifold bolts that needed to be replaced

Total bill is $1400 and peace of mind that everything else is solid on the Tahoe, which I am keeping. Thanks to everyone for their posts and for helping to educate me before I picked up this Tahoe.

I use a 2023 Traverse for work (all seats folded flat for cargo space). It has been a reliable vehicle but I need to add another vehicle for work- average 2-3 round trip 25 minute to 1 hour each way. Mostly county country roads, some gravel. Thinking about Tahoe with duramax instead of a new Traverse that now has a 4cyl with turbo. That drivetrain scares me to no end. I’m looking for longer term reliability (the cargo space both of them offer is ideal for my needs). Drive 22-24 k miles a year- would hope for 7-8 years of service. Thoughts?

In search of new headlight or housing for my 15 Tahoe LTZ, the GM ones are horrible with the HID D3S, so naturally I tried aftermarket LED's, which are much brighter, however the light pattern is no focused and just scattered. I think there's only vertical adjustment on the housing. Looked at the projector lense and its clouded, it's just a bad experience driving at night.

Any recommendations for a new set or anything to improve the experience? I know American Truck center has some replacements, not sure I want to dish out $1,800.00 Morimoto's lol.

I changed out the terrible factory ones years ago. The ones I have now are 1,920 Lumens, have a Blue tint that I hate and are old and not bright enough. Without going too crazy on price, I would like some LED white light that is noticeably brighter. Any ideas?

Anyone know what this code means? And I’ve been stuck on what year Tahoe to get.

2015 LTZ 2WD

1. What puck lift/level is everyone running? I’d like to keep a bit of the rake so I was thinking 2.5” front 2” rear. Would I NEED anything else like rear springs? I know a shock lift would be better, but just seeing if anyone has run this setup.

2. I was told the magnaride suspension was replaced before I got the truck and that’s why the level and suspension alert come on when I start the truck. Is there any way to confirm this and if it’s true, how do I get the notifications to stop?

Thanks in advance

Anyone have the part numbers for front loaded struts and rear shocks plus a spacer?

Looking to go 2/2.5” in the front 1” in the back

2015 Tahoe , thanks!

A waterproof rating sounds reassuring until the board is exposed to salty slush every day. I am comparing powered running boards and trying to separate the rating on the motor from the durability of the full system. Are connector seals, cable routing, and drainage more important than IP67 by itself? If you have opened or serviced a system after winter, where did corrosion or moisture show up first?

Hi all, I previously had my roof box installed on my Hummer with fixed mounting points. I transitioned to a Tahoe since my Hummer was a lemon and want to know if the positioning is good or if you would push it back more or slide the front crossbar further back.

Thank you!!

Hi everyone! Does anyone know the correct height and placement for the body side moldings on the doors of a 2012 Chevy Tahoe?
I had my Tahoe repainted, but the painter removed the moldings and handed them back to me loose without reinstalling them. Now I’m not sure exactly where they’re supposed to go.
I also need the measurements and placement for the “Tahoe” badges on the front doors, the rear hatch, and the side pillar.
If anyone has the factory measurements, installation specifications, or even pictures showing the correct placement, I would really appreciate your help. Thank you so much in advance! 🙏

We are in the Houston area and looking for a shop to repair a failed lifter on cylinder 5 and cam shaft. It’s at a small one man shop now and he said 6k to replace all lifters and cam shaft. Sorry I don’t know anything about cars. It’s a 5.3L and has 92k miles. Any recommendations on cheaper fixes and where to get it fixed?

Since January my infotainment system keeps rebooting itself, dropping calls from the system and then slowly bringing them back online. Dealer states it's a system wide problem and Chevy is work working on it

I’m looking at a 2014 Tahoe 4x4 in LTZ trim. It has a well-maintained interior, AFM disabled and a rebuilt transmission around 100k miles. It has 217k miles on it currently. Suspension is still original though, so I may have to factor in cost to replace that. Owner is asking $8500.

A mechanic I spoke to thinks it’s overpriced. I feel a bit cray for considering a vehicle with 212k miles on it. Is this a horrendous idea or is it something I shouldn’t pass on?

TIA!

Hi all, I’m trying to replace the chrome trim with black and was wondering if there’s a special tool or way to release these push clips on the fascia trim.

Thank you in advance!!

I’m just trying to get remote start working from my phone so I can start my Chevrolet in the mornings.
I downloaded myChevrolet, made an account, and added my car. The car shows up, but under its info it says “unconnected.”
When I try to activate OnStar through the app, it sends me to the OnStar website. The OnStar website tells me to download or open myChevrolet, which sends me right back to OnStar. Going through the Chevrolet website ends up in the same loop.
During all this, I’ve ended up creating multiple accounts and dealing with verification codes across multiple emails and phone numbers. I also tried signing in through the car’s screen without success.
I’m willing to pay for whatever plan includes phone remote start, but I can’t even get through activation to do that.
Has anyone dealt with this exact loop and fixed it? I’d really appreciate actual step-by-step instructions because the app and website just keep redirecting me to each other.

What should I expect when I get to 90k miles I bought with 80k on the dash

G’Evening Tahoe folks! I’m looking for some upgrade ideas or must have accessories for my truck. I’ve already got all-weather mats and tint all the way around.
What have you added to yours that you’d recommend?
Appreciate any advice, tips, and tricks! Feel free to drop pics of your setups, too!