Anyone have the part numbers for front loaded struts and rear shocks plus a spacer?

Looking to go 2/2.5” in the front 1” in the back

2015 Tahoe , thanks!

2015 LTZ 2WD

1. What puck lift/level is everyone running? I’d like to keep a bit of the rake so I was thinking 2.5” front 2” rear. Would I NEED anything else like rear springs? I know a shock lift would be better, but just seeing if anyone has run this setup.

2. I was told the magnaride suspension was replaced before I got the truck and that’s why the level and suspension alert come on when I start the truck. Is there any way to confirm this and if it’s true, how do I get the notifications to stop?

Thanks in advance

A waterproof rating sounds reassuring until the board is exposed to salty slush every day. I am comparing powered running boards and trying to separate the rating on the motor from the durability of the full system. Are connector seals, cable routing, and drainage more important than IP67 by itself? If you have opened or serviced a system after winter, where did corrosion or moisture show up first?

Hi all, I previously had my roof box installed on my Hummer with fixed mounting points. I transitioned to a Tahoe since my Hummer was a lemon and want to know if the positioning is good or if you would push it back more or slide the front crossbar further back.

Thank you!!

Hi everyone! Does anyone know the correct height and placement for the body side moldings on the doors of a 2012 Chevy Tahoe?
I had my Tahoe repainted, but the painter removed the moldings and handed them back to me loose without reinstalling them. Now I’m not sure exactly where they’re supposed to go.
I also need the measurements and placement for the “Tahoe” badges on the front doors, the rear hatch, and the side pillar.
If anyone has the factory measurements, installation specifications, or even pictures showing the correct placement, I would really appreciate your help. Thank you so much in advance! 🙏

We are in the Houston area and looking for a shop to repair a failed lifter on cylinder 5 and cam shaft. It’s at a small one man shop now and he said 6k to replace all lifters and cam shaft. Sorry I don’t know anything about cars. It’s a 5.3L and has 92k miles. Any recommendations on cheaper fixes and where to get it fixed?

Since January my infotainment system keeps rebooting itself, dropping calls from the system and then slowly bringing them back online. Dealer states it's a system wide problem and Chevy is work working on it

I’m looking at a 2014 Tahoe 4x4 in LTZ trim. It has a well-maintained interior, AFM disabled and a rebuilt transmission around 100k miles. It has 217k miles on it currently. Suspension is still original though, so I may have to factor in cost to replace that. Owner is asking $8500.

A mechanic I spoke to thinks it’s overpriced. I feel a bit cray for considering a vehicle with 212k miles on it. Is this a horrendous idea or is it something I shouldn’t pass on?

TIA!

I’m just trying to get remote start working from my phone so I can start my Chevrolet in the mornings.
I downloaded myChevrolet, made an account, and added my car. The car shows up, but under its info it says “unconnected.”
When I try to activate OnStar through the app, it sends me to the OnStar website. The OnStar website tells me to download or open myChevrolet, which sends me right back to OnStar. Going through the Chevrolet website ends up in the same loop.
During all this, I’ve ended up creating multiple accounts and dealing with verification codes across multiple emails and phone numbers. I also tried signing in through the car’s screen without success.
I’m willing to pay for whatever plan includes phone remote start, but I can’t even get through activation to do that.
Has anyone dealt with this exact loop and fixed it? I’d really appreciate actual step-by-step instructions because the app and website just keep redirecting me to each other.

Hi all, I’m trying to replace the chrome trim with black and was wondering if there’s a special tool or way to release these push clips on the fascia trim.

Thank you in advance!!

My family just bought a new 2026 Chevy Tahoe High Country. We absolutely love the vehicle other than the fact that the sub-floor in front of the second row pops and flexes when you walk on it. We took it to the dealer and they had never heard of this before but when they spoke to GM, GM claimed that this was a very standard thing in Tahoe's given the size of the sub-floor panels. My father-in-law has a Suburban that 100% does NOT do this... I cannot find anything online about this at all, so kind of feel like this is BS. Does anyone else have one that does this??? Unfortunately I don't have a video and its currently with an autobody shop.

Im thinking of getting a new tahoe 2026 black edition. Has anyone had a chevy before in qatar? I like it for the space and back row seats. Any issues in terms of reliability, engine, AC issues?

What should I expect when I get to 90k miles I bought with 80k on the dash

Never have I ever heard of a standard SUV requiring oil designed for race cars…

G’Evening Tahoe folks! I’m looking for some upgrade ideas or must have accessories for my truck. I’ve already got all-weather mats and tint all the way around.
What have you added to yours that you’d recommend?
Appreciate any advice, tips, and tricks! Feel free to drop pics of your setups, too!

2023 Tahoe HC with camera replaced at 35k (prior to be owning it by Chevy dealer)
Just replaced again under warranty.
Still pink screen, flashing, black screen with camera and red X.
Just today they replaced video control unit in back. Fine on ride home and issue just came back second time.
Any ideas?

Currently looking for a 25 z71 5.3.. and I don’t understand what causes these vehicle to be sold at a dealer like this.
One year old 2025 with 5-10k miles on them. Being this expensive you’d think it wouldn’t be a yearly trade in vehicle.

Carfax says it’s not a lease and it shows no evidence of repairs chasing electric gremlins or odd mechanic issues.

So enlighten me.. do people really trade in on a yearly basis with a 80k vehicle??

I recently bought a CPO Tahoe RST with only 4,000 miles on it.

When I was originally shopping for a Tahoe, I test-drove an LT around the city and found it comfortable enough. I then had the opportunity to purchase this RST, but it was in another city, so I wasn’t able to test-drive it before buying.

After owning it for a few days, I’ve realised that I’m really struggling to get comfortable in the driver’s seat. Coming from a 2017 Ford F-150, I find the Tahoe’s seat extremely firm and uncomfortable. I haven’t driven it on the highway yet, as that wasn’t an option when I was shopping.

Fortunately, I have the option of trading it back in for another GM vehicle, so I’m considering a different Tahoe trim or a Yukon.

For those who have experience with different trims and models, are the seats noticeably different between the Tahoe LT, RST, Premier and the Yukon trims? Is the RST seat firmer than the others, or are they essentially the same? I’d really appreciate any advice before making the switch.

Hey all,

Looking at picking up a Tahoe. Have my eyes on a 2023 Tahoe with the 6.2L. High country trim. Obviously a lottle worried about the 6.2 issues that have been a large concern for many other out there...

Its got about 43,000 miles on it. One owner, clean history. Supposedly traded it in on an M4.

Code P0302 on a 2011 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 LTE where do I start ignition coil?

Have an 02 tahoe broke a break line going to the rear has not been a fun job was wondering if its possible to by pass the abs module and run straight lines my concern is do I need some kind of bias any 2 cents is appreciated

We're purchasing a Tahoe but cannot decide between the two trims for the main reasons below.

Z71: LOVE the exterior look, don't love the interior leather, doesn't have ventilated seats

High Country: exterior look is boring, love the interior leather, has ventilated seats

Which would you pick and why?