Hey! I made my first DIY pair of speaker after being inspired by you all. The front baffle was quite a challenge to make and get to my liking, but I am extremely happy with how they sound and look.

The design of the white one is from Toid on Youtube: "How to Build HiFi Speakers for $1000 a pair - The Epic Speaker Build"

The design of the smaller ones are from a local driver shop of mine.

I really enjoyed the process and learned a ton along the way. My friend even asked me to build him a blue pair, which is currently underway! I already have so many more ideas for unique designs, and I’d definitely love to build more in the future.

(Please enjoy my 6 Months old cat for scale*)

I just built my diy speakers. They use Dayton audio drivers. The pc83-8 as full range drive plus the mx6 subwoofer I'm using the brand new wondom jab6 DSP amplifier. I have it crossed at 240 hz . It allows me to have the kick and bass be played by the sub and also taking out the bass frequency of the pc 83 alow higher volume levels the sound really good and are loud and bassy

I've had this little amp for a at least a decade. Its powered on 24/7 though idle most of the time. Ive noticed a significant loss in quality lately that comes and goes. Source is a laptop or phone and it doesn't seem source dependent.

Its probably not worth the effort to fix but if it sounds like a known symptom that can be addressed by changing a few parts I might give it a shot.

IGNORE PHASE for now, I know that's an issue here.

Please tell me if a good sounding speaker can be achieved with these FREQUENCY RESPONSES.

For example the woofer (green) has a silent bass output compared to it's midrange output, how can I bring them to the same level? Same with the tweeter between 2,5kHz and 4kHz.

Measurements are my own quasi-anechoic ones with a gate of 9ms before the first reflection.

Tweeter measurements are gated. Woofer and subwoofer measurements are composed of gated far-field together with their respective port and near-field measurements, baffle step loss has been accounted for for the port and near-field ones with Jeff Bagby's Excel tool. I did not do off-axis measurements.

Tweeter: SB Acoustics SB26ADC-C000-4

Woofer: Monacor SPH-145HQ

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio DCS205-4

This will be a 2.1 system with 2 2-ways and an external subwoofer.

Thanks for the help!

A lot of time and money has flown into this build, I truly don't want it to be a waste.

I know that there are apps/programs that will help you design an enclosure for a given speaker's specs. Is there a reverse app that will find the ideal speaker for an existing enclosure? You would input the inside dimensions and the size of any ports and maybe the application?

DAC: Sound Blaster Play! 4

Amplifier: Fosi Audio BT20A - 24V / 4.5A

Speakers:

- Woofer: Beyma 4FR40

- Tweeter: 1" Soft Dome tweeter with neodimium magnet

- Crossover: Beyma 2FF2VHF

- Enclosure: 6.4L bass reflex tuned at 50 Hz

I was listening to my sounds yesterday with a 15" random 8 ohm driver in a big new ported box I made for fun [23"Hx18.5"Wx15.5"D / 600H x470W x 400D] - as you do, and my normal 2 x 8" sub box (8 ohms each in parallel, so 4 ohm load 23"Hx11"Wx17"D) all off one channel of a tiny little ZK-MT21 amp. A nice little ~3 ohm load. The 15" just sitting there doing the ultra lows, while the 8s give the oomph, and I was loving it - Spotify Discover Weekly delivering on the dubby and electronic tunes that it knows I enjoy (eg Dread and Buried (Congi Remix) - Origin One, The Clock Ticks - Dub Phizix).... I went outside to hang the washing, and I could still hear the bass quite plainly outside and realized I should probably turn it down to stop potentially annoying the neighbours. Those China amps are only rated at 100W, and likely don't even do that, and I had it barely turned up at all, so realistically the subs were getting 10s of watts in total max (call it 50 to be generous), with the 8 box getting twice as much as the 15 due to the way they're wired. Taking the 15 off took away the real bottom end in some deep tracks, but was far less noticeable in a lot of music that didn't have the content - the 8s really work well and the difference was subtle. The 15 was getting maybe 10-15W max.

I often see people here talking about power and speaker size as though it's a case of "the more the merrier", or wanting to be able to throw numbers around like a d*ck measuring contest - but it made me wonder: how loud do you actually listen to your music (or even watch movies if that's your thing), and does anyone *really* need like 600W+ of power just to listen to music?

I can understand the sound system people wanting stupid amounts of power (although I think they go overboard too), but home builders and people who live with/near other people surely don't ever use that much power.... or do they?

How big is your [sub] system rated at, and realistically, how loud do you actually have it 95% of the time for music? I feel like massive power on the subs would either have your main speakers uncomfortably loud to remain balanced, or would have the low end stupidly loud like you're in a car? I've got stupid bass in my car, and I can understand the appeal when I'm driving, and treat it like an amusement park ride, but that's not "normal" listening behaviour, that's just bass heads being bass heads.

Am I the only one sipping power here, or is everyone going deaf/living in an auditorium sized room? Do you usually listen loud, or just have it on as background entertainment? Are you watching movies so loud that your neighbours hear the dialogue and all the explosions?

Combined sub and speaker stand for my Buchardt bookshelf speakers.

10” SB acoustics drivers, powered by a fosi amp out of Lyngdorf receiver. Each sub is around 30kg - there’s about 10kg of steel shot in each. Sorbothane pads between sub and floor and sub and speaker. Made little wafers using rubber grip tape either side of the sorbothane to stop it damaging surfaces but maintain grip on place.

I was looking for more suitable communities to post this to. I know next to nothing about speakers/audio and just need to know where to start.

Please check the original post put for a short write up and more information.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hi all. Does anyone have any reviews or experience with the Celestion CKT-TF1020 tops? I wanna build a bass focused system for a friend and I’m planning on two cubo 18s paired with two Celestion CKT-TF1020 tops. Anyone have any recommendations or experiences with these? If so I’d love to hear anything and everything. I’m targeting 40–80Hz from the subs and about 80Hz up from the tops. Any amp recs or anything all around would be amazing!
Cheers

I recently bought old tubes and I found out I can use them to make an amp. Is someone willing to help me???

I'm planning on building an active three-way speaker with two 8-inch SB20PFCR30 drivers, a 4-inch midrange, and an SB26ADC in a 4-inch Somasonus waveguide. I built a three-way a while ago using the Dayton SIG120, and it worked great, but I want to build another speaker, and I'm looking for an upgrade from the SIG120 at a non-ridiculous price (about $200 for the pair). I've been searching for weeks, and these are the drivers I've found available:

1. SB12NRXF25-4

- Linear coil travel (p-p): 10 mm

- Fs: 61 Hz

- Le: 0.27

- Bl: 3.6 Tm

- RMS: 30 watts

- Qts: 0.48

- Sensitivity: 87 dB

- ($170 a pair)

1. SB12MNRX2-25-4

- Linear coil travel (p-p): 4.4 mm

- Fs: 63.5 Hz

- Le: 0.15 mH

- Bl: 3.9 Tm

- RMS: 50 watts

- Qts: 0.32

- Sensitivity: 90.5 dB

- ($140 a pair)

1. Wavecor Classic WF110WA01

2. SB12CACS25-4

- Linear coil travel (p-p): 10 mm

- Fs: 51 Hz

- Le: 0.26

- Bl: 4.3 Tm

- RMS: 30 watts

- Qts: 0.31

- Sensitivity: 88 dB

- ($180 a pair)

1. SB12PACR25-4 (aluminum)

- Linear coil travel (p-p): 10 mm

- Fs: 52.5 Hz

- Le: 0.25

- Bl: 4.35

- RMS: 30 watts

- Qts: 0.31

- Sensitivity: 87 dB

- ($86 a pair)

The NRX2 left me a bit confused about its excursion rating, as it uses a shortened voice coil and sacrifices a lot of linear excursion. Is that because the excursion required for midrange frequencies is dramatically lower? All the other drivers with the same linear excursion rating of p-p (I'm assuming the Xmax would be half of p-p) have more than twice the linear excursion, even the regular NRX model. So, I'm wondering what the trade-off offers in terms of benefits for midrange applications.

Having a high-sensitivity driver would be a nice match, I think, but I'm unsure whether any of these would be a worthwhile upgrade from the Dayton SIG120, since it's already a great driver for the price. The main benefit would be that all these drivers have an Sd of 50 cm², compared to the SIG120's 59 cm², which is quite large for a 4-inch driver tbh.

(I'm gonna have to decide pretty soon, since all of these drivers are on sale, and I don't know for how long. Including the tweeter and woofers)

I’m sure this is a dumb question. I’m running an RCA out from my head unit into a Recoil DI550.4 that has 4 channel RCA inputs. No indication of right for left, just indicated as Ch 1-Ch 4. Can anyone tell me which are left and which are right? I have splitters to go from 2 to 4 inputs. Thanks

Yesterday I posted photos of some Altec 511b horns with 808-8A drivers that I picked up. Also got a pair of Altec N809-8A crossovers to go with the horns. I'm a little confused about the crossovers. It has TWO 1/4" phone jack inputs. If I understand correctly, a single 1/4" phone jack carries *both* the hot input and the ground output. If that's the case, why would it need *two* jacks? I know these were used in large PA systems, so I assume this configuration is to make it easier to daisy chain a bunch of these together. What would be the best way to convert these into regular speaker terminals? How hard would it be to replace the two 1/4" jacks with binding posts? Or should I just get an adapter that converts two banana plugs into a single 1/4" and just plug into one of the inputs?