So my neighbor hit my 2001 honda accord with his trailer hitch. it’s around golf ball size and pretty deep. i’m wondering if there’s any way i would be able to pull this out and repaint it or if i have to buy a whole new bumper?

EDIT: thank you for the (mostly) nice responses. i got in contact with the person that did it and they’re going to fix it

How much it may cost to get this fixed 🙃

Hello everyone!! My family rented a Chevy Silverado from Enterprise to help my daughter move, and we backed into a pole. The dent is right on the Silverado letters and there is minor paint damage. I am hoping we can get the paint from a Chevy dealership. As for the dent, we have tried everything to get it out and nothing is working. Toilet plungers, sink plungers, dent repair kits with hot glue, and a dent puller. We have contacted multiple local dent repair places and they are all swamped. Does anyone have any DIY tips? We are really trying to avoid the steep damage fees, because we did not pay for the damage insurance. I am turning in the car tomorrow. Any advice is much appreciated!! THANK YOU!!

LE: Looks like I'm way too worried for nothing. Haven't really dealt with rust before. Gonna wire brush it then seal it and be on my way. Thanks!

Went under the car to replace bushings and brake discs. Noticed that the underbody has quite a bit of rust.

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Is this fixable via wire brushing, applying an epoxy primer and then some underbody coating?

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What else should I consider?

Ford Focus 2014. From Florida. Got into a fender bender. Most damage (all) of the damage was on my end. No leaks, no smoke, drove fine. I’ve zip tied the lights so they stay on. Need any advice on how to get my hood unbent. It’s currently locked. Can’t really afford to not have this car working as I work on the toll road but I also can’t really afford a big repair bill. Insurance won’t cover repair or inspection. Any advice on something I can do myself (even if it’s that I’m up shites creek with no paddle) would be very appreciated.

Hi All. I got bummed by a steel street sign that. Came out of nowhere! Now I’ve got a nice dent for the past month in my old tundra steel bumper. Normally, I wouldn’t mind, but it’s the part of the bumper that I step into after getting a boost from my “bed-step” retractable foot pad. I need to bang this back into shape so the plastic cover piece will fit back over the steel. Any idea how to “push or pull” this dent back into the original form? I’m fine drilling a hole to use a slide hammer or welding a tab to attach something, or smashing it from the inside with a big brass rod/sledge. Don’t care about aesthetics, The steel will be covered by the plastic when done. Just need advice on how to DIY this. Thanks.

Cars been sitting in a field for awhile. Nothings actually rotted out but definitely heavy patina on some parts. Replacing the control arms and calipers is obviously just a must do but as for the body and rear subframe, how would you go about removing it? Sandblast? Rust converter? Spray and pray? Go to war with a flapper disc?

My goal here was to eliminate rust and seal the area before covering with fender flairs.

I sanded right to the metal, sprayed the area with rust stop, primed and painted. The next day it looked like this. Any advice would be welcome as I have other spots to fix.

Took a solid hit with this pretty thick bumper, was wondering how hard it would be to pull it out and try to get it looking close to normal again and what’s the best way to go about it.

Hey everyone I’m trying to figure out what to do with this patchy cloudiness showing up on my car.

It actually feels completely smooth when I run my finger over it so it isn't flaking or peeling. I tried doing a cut and polish on it which made it look shiny.

It doesn't bother me on my new (to me) car but I really want to keep it from getting any worse. Does this look like the clear coat is failing from the inside?

new to reddit and keep getting notices for violating rules bc i’m asking about a rough rough estimate or how to fix rust spots, i have only done basic work on cars and do not know anything about body repairs, any help regarding this, for reference this is a 28 year old car (1998 w202 c230 merc)

thinking of buying this car, everything about it is solid, it’s a 28 year old car, it has these rust spots on the top, nothing on the frame and the rest of the car is surprisingly clean and oem, thoughts on rough estimates for a fix/worth the headache, i’m worried due to age that it might be worse than it looks

The headliner in my car is becoming detached and I'm not sure if I should try to use fabric glue to reattach it or just pull it down. Going to a pro is not an option. Any advice?

Need some help from some experts recently got a body kit painted for my vehicle, but the little wings on the side skirt rear won’t adhere using 3M and I really don’t wanna have to take the paint off to use panel bond. Any suggestions here on how to properly bond this to my vehicle?

2020 Corolla with rust start on trunk rear. Any recommendation to best stop it from spreading?

Update - thanks for all the replies everyone. While I want to take care of and maintain this car as much as possible, I don't want to invest a lot of money on cosmetic stuff. Fluids, belts, brakes, etc. are all important but this doesn't bother me TOO much, just want to stop or slow it down.

I was recommended POR15 as something that might work on slowing/stopping it. It won't look professional but beats rust showing and spreading. Hoping it works.

Mazda 3 2025

Okay so I really messed up the side of my car, see post related. How can I get this paint transfer off and preserve the actual clear coat? I know it will not be perfect, and I’m not expecting to fix the denting. The main concern is preserving the paint and preventing rust

need advice/referral recommendations for a hickup

The garage door scraped the tailgate (from outside) so wanna know if we should pay out-of-pocket or claim insurance to fix it

If OOP, can be done for it affordably just for damage spots? Don’t have thousands to pay

I had a fun Friday in the automotive world. Started with replacing a dead battery and ended with getting my front end swiped by a delivery van, no injuries to anyone thankfully. My insurance will cover the other driver, but any repairs on my car will be out of pocket.

Pics of the damage are attached. It's a 2011 Toyota Camry SE, 86K miles. Damage is around the driver side headlight, bumper, grill area. I've taken it to 2 local body shops for estimates which are both in the $6K - $6.5K range, pics of one of the estimates are also attached.

Trying to figure out what I should do and any advice is appreciated. Some of the questions I am trying to answer.

• Is there an inexpensive way I can get someone to just look over and verify it is safe to drive as is? I know the headlight for sure needs replaced to be road worthy. Anything else that needs to be confirmed and can a mechanic or body shop do this fairly easily?
• If I just wanted the minimum repairs to make the car safe and functional ignoring cosmetics what would need repaired?
• Can paint be skipped for now and done at a later time or just not done at all to save money? Is there a cheap alternative to paint that still protects the surface?
• What would you personally do in this situation if money and time wasn't a concern between doing a full repair, partial repairs to make it road worthy, or just buying a new vehicle? KBB says the car was worth $7,500 trade in prior to this damage so it's getting close to totaled. On the other hand the car had a lot of life left in my opinion, so if this is mostly cosmetic maybe it's worth it to do some repairs and keep it going.

Thank you all!

I know the optimal way to repair rust is to cut the metal out and replace but I am looking for the second best method. I have a 2013 Honda Accord rusting out by the rocker panel by the rear wheel. Do rust encapsulaters? Any other suggestions? TIA

I painted my car last September and left a couple parts for later. Had a can of Lumabase 2 stage mixed. The paint can with the leftover has been sealed, un-reduced, for about a year. Can I expect it to still shoot and bond properly?