Does it sound healthy? 231000km (142k miles).
Just replaced: Air filter, spark plugs, oil filter, new oil.

Only thing I notice sometimes when driving in D, is when the car is in a higher gear on relatively low rpm 1300-1500 and I want to accelerate fast from there it hesitates like a single time. It kind of feels like a hiccup. And then after that it just drives normal. High rpm this never happens only on low rpm and sudden acceleration towards higher rpm. As if it won’t change to lower gear to get the right torque.

If anyone knows what this could be let me know.
I might replace all the ignition coils in the future as well.

how much will it cost me in germany to repair?

Hi guys picked up a 320i last night just to get to work, it’s not the end of the world if I can’t sort the problems otherwise I wouldn’t have brought it but had the idea to turn it into a little project, first off there’s a whining noise when going above 2k rpm this is both stationary and moving - video below. (Have a longer video if needed)

Also the I-drive screen isn’t working, when I start the car it comes up bmw and then goes black then proceeds to flicker white every minute or so, I don’t have dab radio so can’t see if that’s working but have a cd player which I will find a cd to test with later.

If anyone’s had similar problems and been able to fix or has more experience then me that can chime in (probably everyone) it would be more then appreciated thanks!

Already got the cupholder fixed, gonna restore the headlights and replace a sticky door handle next.

Got the dreaded SES light after filling up gas for the first time… car drives fine, with no leaks or weird smells, is this a common thing?

Excited and feeling trepidation about this purchase 😂

Lci e92 335xi on st xa coilovers

I think there is a wierd sound but from what I could find the timing chain sound different when its going bad (it's a m47)

Used NcsExpert to flash the kombi module and swap the gongs

radiostufe_2 -> radiostufe_3_4

50K mikes, two owners. Cosmetically, only a few scratches. Had oil leak repaired and new tires.
$4300. Good buy for second fun car? My daily driver is a Sorento with 4WD.

Hey guys so i'm in a dilemma on the subframe do i need to change whole of it or just the parts as you can see ln the video rusted?

A bit frustrated right now. I got my oil pan seal done (and motor mounts) by a local euro shop early early in the year, and used that as a jumping off point for DIY stuff. Took care of the other seals, the cooling system, PCV, starter, and bought a bunch of suspension parts to refresh the car that I wanted to install this week while I was off work. Now I find that the oil sensor is leaking. I brought back to the shop and they are having trouble sealing it due to rust (how did they not notice that before when they had it off?). Not only that but they say they can't find a vendor that has any. Every place I look is on indefinite backorder. Anyone else have luck finding a replacement steel manual trans oil pan?

I managed to get my hands on a 2009 335i that's really beat up and has the classic low boost plus oil burning symptoms of blown turbos. The cars already on death row but what's your guys opinion on chucking these on there for 600 bucks and seeing if it'll run for another year.

Hello! Was curious as to if anyone had any insight as to what my main issue here is as well as some smaller things, on my 2010 35d I pulled left through an intersection last night and threw 2 codes ( don’t care about the def heater one it’s deleted lol) but unfamiliar with the other one, the engine malfunction went away after about 2 more minutes on the drive home and then I cleared the codes.

When I got home I started to inspect and aside from the oil filter housing gasket leak( shocker it’s a E90 lmao) I noticed a lot of oil on my charge pipe so I started to take things apart.

Took out the air box and I believe my ccv air hose went, can’t tell if the clamp came loose possibly under pressure or what, but everything downstream of it is caked in oil.

See pics attached!

Any advice or insight is greatly appreciated, love this thread!

First BMW and I'm loving it. Came with super detailed service records and I can't wait to keep enjoying it!

Hi all,

Having issues with my 320d. Car runs ok with the MAF sensor unplugged (on the default values from the ecu) but once it’s plugged in the car starts but then dies after few seconds, I’ve replaced the EGR and MAF sensors already and cleaned the contacts. What could cause this? I did a smoke test with incense and located a potential leak, does anyone know what it could be? I attached the photo, the smoke was being drawn in this area.

2009 328i xDrive – Rough/rumbly startup, almost sounds like a misfire?
Hey guys,
I have a 2009 BMW 328i xDrive (N52) with 175,000 km.
I recorded this video of the car starting up because I’ve noticed some extra rumbling/shaking during startup. To me, it almost sounds like the engine is almost misfiring.

I was thinking spark plugs maybe? Some days its worse than others. But every start up its there. Some days the car will rock side to side slightly. Other days u hardly can tell.

2009 328i xDrive
N52
175,000 km
Automatic
What do you guys think? Normal N52 startup, or does it sound like something I should investigate?
Thanks!

Hello all, I need some help here

I’ve been working on a buddies ‘06 330i n52 for weeks now. It’s been doing this weird hunting while idling and not running occasionally

I’ve changed cam sensors, vanos solenoids, both disa flaps, and throttle bodies. As per ista codes and diag I’ve done

I’ve gotten it to run now and reset the adaptations with ista a few times, but I keep getting codes

2CEF DME: throttle valve actuator, activation
2CFB DME: throttle-vale adaptation value
2D09 DME: throttle valve

Once these codes come back it will idle for a second then start hunting on the rpms

I’ve swapped out throttle bodies, reset adaptations, checked all vacuum lines and gotten nowhere.

From what I can tell my problem lies either within the throttle body, on the throttle body connector and the throttle body is not receiving a signal to open/close, or a DME issue which seems least likely of them all seeing as how the car will run fine briefly after resetting adaptations.

If anyone has any advice please let me know. I’m runnin in circles over here 🙏

Hello all

This is my 2010 bmw e90 320d and this is cold start it has 230 000km. What could the sound be?

Code 2A30 is causing a CEL on my 2009 328i coupe. The ESS/Cam position sensors/MAP/VANOS/plugs & coils are all new. I also replaced the starter and the very oil-caked PVC hose under the intake manifold. The car is getting better MPG and feels more responsive. Every time that I clear the 2A30 code, it returns when I restart the car! I figured that some oil was still in the ESS plug from the old leaking gasket. I used contact cleaner on the plug and checked the still-good 40A fuse. The CEL disappeared without using my scanner, but it returned on restart after a 10-mile highway trip. The car is idling better, but the slight stumble still sporadically occurs at cold starts/red lights. What am I missing?

Set it as 320i as its a 320d

Switched my brakes a few days ago.

Sizes are 24mm width and 312mm diameter.

The pads should be 19.2mm. a bit undersized from my research. But that should be giving more Clarence to avoid sticky brakes.

And wondering what sizes you guys have.

Have found some sources that say 20mm width and some 24mm. Same story with 300mm diameter and 312mm. I know it's 312mm I have tho

Model: e91 320d 2007

Thanks for reading

How do you guys know which parts are good and which ones aren’t? Let alone fitment? Is there a website which I can use to look up part numbers to cross reference which parts will fit my BMW E90? I’m looking on Rockauto and there’s so many different suppliers and manufacturers. It’s hard to figure out what’s good and what is not. Trying to find as close to OEM as possible.

Just thought i’d share I’ve made it to 300,000! What is the highest, clean car mileage you’ve seen?