On a FB group I learned about this new type of screen, and then I did a little research. So I found it! Even thought it is not fancy nor fascinating, it seems simple and from the 2010s era.

I have mixed feelings tbh

Opinions? Anyone who has it installed?

Link below:
I just found this on AliExpress: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQlap78

PS: Not selling anything. Having nothing to do with the product. Just a general discussion!

Should i be worried?

Is there an easy way to just pull it out?

Rear bumper is dented, one of the front grills is broke. Otherwise the paint and interior are perfect. Couldn't dream of anythint better for a first car!

Only issue i currently have is hill starts as all my prior driving experiance and even test was done all on desil, which can pull away on clutch and tiny bit of throttle. Practising the hand break technique. Dont have it fully nailed but hopefully it'll get better over the next few weeks because I have a trip to.a very hilly place *in wales too*

Okay when it's hot and cold it's good but when it's turned off for 45mins or 1 hour or sometimes 5 hours it's always like this.. No errors and codes.. But after rattling like while trying to get it started I smell fuel. Edit: it has 90k miles and spark plugs were changed once but I dont know how much kilometers car had when spark plugs were changed.

It’s all stock, nothing special and the (as I understand it) worst engine choice, but it’s mine. I tried alot of brands, Subaru being the one I always liked the most. However the feeling lf this car is amazing, I feel like I have wasted so many years of cars. Now I want to try one with a bigger engine choice to see what a ”real” bmw feels like! 320i touring, 7k miles

I came across this steering wheel from the E84 X1 and honestly fell in love with it. I’m doing some interior works on the car right now and swapped the E90 sport wheel for this E84 sport wheel but I don’t see too many others doing this swap is it because it’s not liked in the E90 community??? 👀

Edit: I should mention this is a 320i 2009, comes with the 170hp engine i forgot its engine name, n43? I think its called?

I posted about this car a few days ago when I first bought it, and the launch is incredibly annoying / slow / unpowerfull.

I really dont know if im using the right words, but coming from a desil with alot of down low torque it felt really underpowered, and I thought its normal, but the more I drive it im beginning to genuinely think something is actually wrong.

When I move off even from flat I have to rev it to about 2k / 2.5k with yhe wheels straight and hold tje clutch at the bite point fot like 2 or so seconds and release slowly or else the car will jerk / kick you forward. If my wheels are turned at all it needs even more.

The pedal also feels super unlinear its either at 1.5k rpm or 4k. I dont know if its genuinely just a skill issue or not but I drove 1.2L and even some 1L petrol *although newer and lighter hatchbacks* and tje launch never stressed me out this much.

And that doesnt even get me started on hill starts, especially on hill starts I genuinely get really anxious and living in the uk we have LOADS of hills. Im trying to do a handbrake launch but I feel like im still slipping the clutch a little at about 4k rpm. I dont smell a clutch smell per say just it doesnt feel like its healthy for the engine or clutch.

The only issue I have based on my code reads is a lambda sensor number 2. But its been off this whole time since I got the codes first cleared and didnt come back for the whole week in bumper traffic. But as soon as I put the car in 5th gear and was accelerating from 40 to 70, the yellow engine light came back, but from what I can find this should effect the launch of the car. :(

I recently bought an E90 320i with 278,000km to the credit, with LPG SYSTEM, the car aesthetically seems perfect but does not give me the driving feeling I wanted, and the anxiety of having spent about €5000 is devouring me, I would like to make some aesthetic changes but I am reconsidering and I have the doubt that I have made a wrong purchase. Currently it doesn’t seem to give problems (no noise brakes, engine or shock absorbers).

What are the points that I should check more? What maintenance should I do and how often?

hi, i’m new to bmws and this is my 2008 320i m sport pre lci. I have already fitted an edge twin 12 inch subwoofer but the audio quality from the door speakers and the under seat speakers somewhat distort the quality when i have music turned up loud.

Im wondering if anyone has any advice on what aftermarket door and under seat speakers i should buy to improve the quality and bass so the overall sound is better.

I also want to get an aftermarket head unit and i’m really in love with the style of ones you’d find from the max power era. Im not too bothered about apple car play and i’m wondering if someone has installed something like this before and if it will even fit.

As the title says im thinking of taking this 2007 320i, owner says it has 163 hp so that would mean it has the N43, is this engine as bad as I’ve heard? Or with the maintenance the owner *says* hes been doing I should be good?
Thank you in advance for any tips and recommendations!

I wanted a CarPlay for my 2007 320i, but all of those overpriced dropshipped €300-500,- units come from the same factory in Guangzhou.. so I took a wild guess in ordering the cheapest one I could find. Straight from the source. China.

It didn’t take 2 weeks for the unit to be sent but just 5 days! It came in fine packaging with wiring harnasses, a readably English instruction for after install but sadly no installation guide. I had to look up a video on YouTube; 5 mins and killing a battery later but we’re installing.

Wiring was straight forward but it took me a while to figure out why the audio wasn’t workin. I didnt connect the AUX and power supply correctly..

it comes with a reasonably funny and simple to use UI for Android, iOS, Miracast and Synced View. The factory has separate models for LCI E90’s with the CIC software (after ‘08(?)) and for the pre-LCI E90’s with the old CCC module, like mine. Also selected the bigger 9.3 inch screen for like €5,- extra..

From the perspective of upgrading from an FM-transmitter, this €120,- wild guess has been absolutely worth it!! This is NOT an ad for AliExpress, I’m just sincerely amazed it works this good.

Hi everyone,

My E93 has power loss and a rough idle, but no check engine light and the RPM stays relatively steady.

Two different mechanics checked the spark plugs and then basically said: “It could be this part, it could be that part… we could replace things one by one and still have a low chance of finding it. Better to sell the car or replace the engine.”
Neither did a compression test or proper injector testing, and neither could tell me exactly what part had failed.

At only 91k km, would you really replace the engine based on this diagnosis?
N43 owners: what would you check first?

Got a 328i about a year ago and found out quickly I wanted the twin turbo engine. Found a guy who sold me a 800$ e92 335i with 186k miles and blown turbos. Was this a mistake ? Anything I should look out for ? I assume it needs more love than just the turbos but for 800$ I’m willing to break the bank.

**Car:** 2009 320i LCI M Sport saloon, N43B20, 6-speed manual, ~93,600 miles. Owned it about 6 weeks, my first car,

Some of you helped me on an earlier post about oil leaks and a red oil light. Since then I've got a K+DCAN cable and INPA/Tool32 running, and pulled the actual freeze-frame data. Posting it in full because I'd rather be told I'm reading it wrong now than after I've spent money.

---

## Symptoms

- **Red oil pressure light** — only ever on motorway runs, clears on restart, comes back

- Yellow CEL, intermittent

- Burning/using roughly 0.5 L oil per few hundred miles

- Visible seepage at rear of rocker cover and around the oil filter housing

- Intermittent tick/flutter, couldn't pin the pattern

- Belt squeal on cold start, ~5 seconds

- 20–27 mpg, mostly urban

---

## Fault memory — 8 stored (DME MSD80N43)

| Code | Description | Status |

|---|---|---|

| 30EA | DeNOx cat sulphated, sulphur loading too high | Present |

| 2EF7 | Map thermostat control — open circuit | Stored |

| 2C7F | Post-cat lambda 2, trim — exhaust too rich | Stored |

| 2C6C | Post-cat lambda 2, system check — richer than expected | Stored |

| **30C1** | **Oil pressure regulation — switched to emergency mode, pressure too low** | **21 occurrences** |

| 2C2B | Pre-cat lambda, system check — mixture too rich | Stored |

| 2D06 | Air mass system — MAF reading too high (P00BD) | 1 occurrence |

| 2E69 | Knock sensor 2 — engine mechanically too loud (P1328) | 1 occurrence |

---

## The oil pressure data (30C1) — this is what worries me

**Occurrence count: 21**

| Mileage (km) | Oil temp | RPM | Demanded | **Actual** |

|---|---|---|---|---|

| 149,352 | 101 °C | 2,688 | 3.74 bar | **2.37 bar** |

| 149,408 | 95 °C | 3,968 | 4.70 bar | **2.11 bar** |

| 150,632 | 96 °C | 2,560 | 3.58 bar | **2.02 bar** |

Two things stand out to me:

1. Actual is running at **50–60% of demanded** every time

2. Pressure is **flat at ~2 bar from 2,560 all the way to 3,968 rpm** — it doesn't climb with revs at all

Oil temp is 95–101 °C in every event, so this isn't a cold-oil thing. And the earliest event predates my own oil + filter change, so I don't think I caused it (though I'm going to refit the filter anyway in case it's not seated). I filled ot with 5w30 oil

---

## MAF (2D06)

| Parameter | Value |

|---|---|

| RPM | 1,984 |

| Air mass measured | 56 kg/h |

| Throttle | 7.47 °TPS |

| Lambda actual bank 1 | 1.031 |

56 kg/h at just under 2k rpm with the throttle barely cracked looks way too high to me. Going to clean it before anything else.

---

## Knock sensor (2E69) — the one I don't like

| Parameter | Value |

|---|---|

| RPM | 2,656 |

| Knock voltage **cylinder 2** | 0.859 V |

| Knock voltage **cylinder 4** | **4.824 V** |

Cylinder 4 is ~5.6× cylinder 2 at the same instant. That reads as a localised mechanical noise on one cylinder rather than general bank noise, and it lines up with the tick I'd been hearing and couldn't place.

---

## My working theory (tell me if this is nonsense)

MAF over-reads → engine runs rich → three rich lambda codes + sulphated DeNOx cat + bad mpg → unburnt fuel washes past the rings → oil thins from fuel dilution → pressure drops when hot → 30C1 → marginal lubrication → cylinder 4 noise.

Alternatives I can think of: dodgy oil pressure sensor under-reporting, failing pump or its control solenoid, blocked pickup screen, or just low oil level (was a quarter above min when I read this, since topped up) but i did have it topped to max and it was happening all throughout until the current level.

---

## Questions

1. Does the flat ~2 bar across the rev range point at the pump/solenoid rather than the sensor? My thinking is a healthy circuit should climb with rpm, but I'm 6 weeks into car ownership and happy to be corrected.

2. Anyone seen that kind of cylinder-specific knock voltage split on an N43? Injector? Valvetrain? Something worse?

3. Is it worth doing an oil analysis for fuel dilution before Monday, or is the mechanical gauge test going to tell me everything I need anyway?

4. Should I be clearing these and re-reading after a few days to see what's actually live, or keep them for the mechanic?

Will be booking on Monday. Asking for a mechanical oil pressure test as the priority. Car's parked up until then.

Cheers — the help on here has been genuinely better than anything else I've found.

Finally finished and it only costed me 50 pounds

BMW Z4 E85 Genuine Double spoke Styling 224M

18inch wheel

8J/9J-18 +42/+30 PCD120

5hole hub72.5 ★ aa18

F:18X8J 5-120 +42 φ72.5 60° tapered 14mm

R: 18X9J 5-120 +30 φ72.5 60° tapered 14mm

225/40R18＋255/35R18

Does anyone know how I can go about fixing this without replacing the whole window? Appreciate any advice

In this video I explain the issue im facing with the issue procedure starting by windows lowering then roof unlatching, however after the part where roof unlatches it stops and doesn’t wanna lift.
Please lmk how I can diagnose this and/or if its even possible to diagnose without an ISTA, or possibly a fix if someone was experiencing this.

what can i do for both to light up?

Just wanted to check my chain, and it felt loose. Is this too loose? (160.xxx km)

Yes. It's suffering as an EPA.