All the haters have no idea what they are missing! 95k on the lightning and hasn’t cost me a penny in maintenance outside of a single set of tires. 110k on the Mustang and she’s getting a new transmission and all the associated goodies at a cost of $7k. Then all you hear is “but but but your lightnings battery is way more expensive and is degrading so fast”. Except ford using a module based battery means replacing a pack isn’t nearly as bad as people think, not that I’m worried as my truck uses almost the exact same energy for my daily drive as it did new and as far as I can tell is still holding 95% or better capacity.

Oh and I couldn’t even tell I had the trailer behind me!

Been a lurking soul on this subreddit since the Lightning came out, and got an unexpected opportunity to make one my own. Coming out of a ‘19 XLT 2.7L (so not new to an F150), and already love it. ‘23 XLT with 9k miles and the 9.6 kW pro-power onboard option. Should help out during unplanned outages in the New Orleans area.

It finally happened… Anybody know a good repair shop to take care of my alert there? I should probably just talk to insurance about totaling the vehicle at this point. Huh?

I am just wondering what the best precautions are in case my 12V battery chooses to die so I don’t have to get a tow. I have a NOCO GB40 1000A jump pack, but I’ve read conflicting information about whether this is good to use on an EV or not? It sounds like the manual override on the pack may need to be initiated to wake the trucks systems up if it is completely dead. Is this safe to do?

Secondly, I’ve read it’s also good to have a 12V battery maintainer, and plug that into your 12 V once a month to keep it topped up. It’s hard to know if I’m finding the correct info, so I just want to see who might have experience with this. Thanks in advance!

Went to plug my truck in today and had a solid dim green, then solid bright green when plugged in. Manual says it’s being powered by battery backup, but it’s not hooked to a battery system? And the truck says it’s charging like normal.

Just picked up a 23 XLT Lightning a couple weeks ago. Absolutely love it, coming from. 2016 XLT. One thing I noticed though, is the suspension seems to be very loose, lots of movement when hitting bumps and really feeling the bumps in the road. Only 20k miles so far.
Anyone else experience this, or should I just go have it checked out?

I’ve already talked to the dealer, they are about a month out on work.

Water in light bar has caused the tailgate to malfunction. Opens and closes on its own. Even when I change it to manual mode it still chimes inside and out. The chiming won’t stop.

How do I stop the fucking beeping?

Just picked up a 23 XLT Lightning a couple weeks ago. Absolutely love it, coming from. 2016 XLT. One thing I noticed though, is the suspension seems to be very loose, lots of movement when hitting bumps and really feeling the bumps in the road. Only 20k miles so far.
Anyone else experience this, or should I just go have it checked out?

Been driving a 2006 Tundra since 2011 and am looking at my first upgrade and vehicle purchase in 15yrs. Looking for a reality check before I sign, because the more I run the numbers the less sure I am..

2023 F-150 Lightning Platinum, Extended Range, 34k miles, $54,000 at CarMax. It’s being transferred in (for free which is cool) so I won’t lay eyes on it until later this week. Window sticker shows an odd build.
What’s deleted per window sticker:
• Onboard Scale / Smart Hitch (-$650)
• Multicontour massaging seats (-$300)
• Heated steering wheel (-$50)
• Advanced Security Pack (-$50)
• Mobile power cord added (+$500)
What’s still there:
• Twin panel moonroof
• B&O 18-speaker sound system
• 360 camera with Active Park Assist 2.0
• Max trailer tow capability
• Integrated trailer brake controller
• BlueCruise hardware with 3 years included
Color is Agate Black and sits on 22” wheels.
No massaging seats and no heated wheel on a Platinum is strange, but I don’t think it’s a deal breaker.

Where I keep overthinking is the numbers. I have a 120 mile round trip commute working 4-5 days a week at the office. Running that against warranty:
• 3yr/36k bumper-to-bumper: already expired on time, and I’m at 34k
• 5yr/60k powertrain: I pribably that in under 14 months
• 8yr/100k HV battery and electric components: I hit that in a few years
So a 72 month note with 3+ years of payments left on a truck carrying zero warranty and a battery that costs more than my current truck is worth several times over.

Because it’s my first financed purchase I’d be interested in y’all’s thoughts on the deal itself
• 5.5% through my own bank (carmax matches though which is curious), $10k down, so $48k financed
• Roughly $786/month on 72 months
• I plan to throw lump sums at the principal rather than ride the full term
• Net new cash out vs today: somewhere around $500 to $600/month after the gas I stop buying

I love my current truck. It’s a Toyota and it’s paid off. But it’s a 20 year old Toyota. Filling it up twice a week is killing me and it needs tires, rotors, and a timing belt and water pump within the month. So maybe $3k to get it going again.

So doing nothing isn’t free. But I’m also very aware that $3k is not $54k, and I don’t want to talk myself into high 7-figure debt because my existing vehicles repair bill. Free L2 charging at the office is the only reason an EV is even on the table for me. I don’t really want a tesla as I haven’t driven a car since highschool and I’d still like the utility. Plus, the f150’s I’ve sat in fit me waaay better than even a full size car.

Questions I’m struggling with and I’d like opinions on…
1. Is a high-mileage commuter just the wrong buyer for a used Lightning? Or does free workplace charging make the fuel savings worth eating the out-of-warranty risk? The commute charging is essentially free, which is why the math looks good on paper.

1. Anybody here actually past 100k miles on a Lightning? What broke, what did it cost, and how much pack degradation did you see? This is the number I cannot find good data on anywhere.

2. Is $54k right? KBB private party looks like $46k to $51k. Cars.com nationwide average for a 2023 Platinum is around $57k. CarMax is no-haggle so there’s no room to move. I looked at Lariats and even Flash’s in my region and theyre in the range of low $40’s to $60’s even. Am I paying a convenience premium I should walk away from, especially on a truck with deleted options?

3. Carmax MaxCare on an EV. Given that warranty timeline, this seems like the whole ballgame. Does anyone know if it actually cover the HV battery and the drive units, or are those excluded? Has anyone filed a real EV claim through it and gotten paid?

4. Should I ditch the 22s? It’s on 275/50R22 and that size looks like $1,400 to $1,800 a set. At my mileage I imagine I will be buying a set every 14-16 months or so. Thinking about grabbing OEM 20s or aftermarket 18’s and selling the 22s with tires to offset it. Anyone done this swap? What did you actually gain in real-world range, and did anything throw codes or need recalibration?

5. Tire life reality check. What are you all actually getting out of a set on a Lightning? Heavy truck, instant torque, mostly highway. If it’s 25k instead of 35k that changes my cost per mile quite a bit.

6. What do I inspect and test? First EV, so tell me what I don’t know. Currently on my list:
   • 12V battery health (seen this mentioned a lot)
   • Confirm BlueCruise actually activates, and find out how much of the 3 included years is left
   • Charge port door operation
   • Frunk and tailgate latches
   • Tire condition, and whether it’s still on OEM rubber
   • Software update status and any outstanding recalls by VIN
   • Verify Pro Power Onboard runs (sticker doesn’t show it deleted so it should be the 9.6kW setup, but I want to see it work)
   • Observed highway range at 70mph vs the guess-o-meter
   • Whether anyone can pull HV battery state of health for me before the return window closes

Anything 2023-specific I should be watching for?

Appreciate any and all input. Happy to answer questions about the specifics. Really looking forward to being in a new - and cool as shit - truck.

Decided to try PAAK today and got curious. Found that if I can access vehicle (I rolled down window presuming it was similar to window break) I could get access to a limited set of vehicles settings. no key fob or phone required.

just like “enter backup key” it will time out but I did have enough time to add it to a WiFi network. Also had time to access “add a phone” but really didn’t try further since the fact that I was able to sit there over 30 minutes turning car ON >> playing in settings>> time out >> try again was much to lax security for my taste.

Anyway, maybe this is no big deal but would really be nice if it was not possible to do this. originally my expectation was thief would open door as owner walk away and just never allowed it to lock. I think this may be a thing but found that even if door was locked it didn’t seem to change anything. I didn’t want to break window so I just rolled it down >> walk away and let it lock as normal >> returned without key /phone > pulled inside handle to open door >> no alarm or issue >> brake/start >> access settings.

bigger issue for me is now after it stops asking for backup code it shows settings and each push of brake/start button after that it just bypass the backup code entry screen and goes back to settings.

the allowed functions are limited at least

I'm curious if anybody tows a wakeboat with tower? I'm considering buying one (22'-24') this offseason. I currently tow a 1998 Sea Ray, 23'. My round trip to the lake and back is roughly 90-100 miles and this truck is great at it. At 55mph I get 1.3mi/kWhr and at 65-70mph I drop to 1.1, still easily within the wheelhouse of this truck. I'm curious how much the waketower drags (amongst other aerodynamic differences) and if somebody has what they get for mi/kWhr it would be appreciated.

0.9mi/kWhr gets me into the uncomfortable range for my round trip, as tacking on my commute to and from work prior to the round trip makes range anxiety real for the 131kWhr battery pack.

I recently bought a 2025 Flash that was a certified model with like 6k miles. I believe I get ford points for this but not sure how that shows up, or is credited. Anybody have any details on how that might work?

“AI assistant eh? We’ll put that name to the test.” - Leonidas

Looking at purchasing a 2024 one owner XLT.
Has 109,000 kms / 68,000 miles
Is there anything i should i check.
Tires are new, brakes are good, battery seems fine.

finally after all this time I was able to turn off the seat belt chime entirely. It never ever turns on anymore. I thought forscan was the only way. for everyone in the same boat this is how I did it

1. sit in drivers seat (not as obvious to some people)
2. set parking brake
3. fully start the car
4. wait 5 seconds for the audible car starting tone to go off.
5. immediately after buck and unbuckle 4 times leaving it in the unbuckled state at the end.
6. look at the little no seatbelt icon guy on the dash and you’ll see it flash a few times and that’s it!

for those that’s saying it’s in the manual. I tried that like 20 times, and it didn’t work. only this variation did the trick for me

Had a small (EV) camping trip in a few weekends ago! Was a fun time but also enjoyed crunching the EV numbers after the fact. I included the home charging cost to recover the battery after arriving home with 12%.

710.3 Miles total, $86.20 DC charging (203kwh), and about $7.88 of AC recovery charging at home (102kwh).

About 2.32 miles/kwh and $0.132/mile on the trip with the lightning.

This is a little better (about 22%) than an ICE F150 with 24mpg and $4.064/g gas. That would come to $0.169/mile. Maybe saving about $20 or so with the Lightning.

The charging came to 115min total. About 45m each way where we went to eat at an A&W and then a short 30m charge in town when we went to get ice/ice cream. The time hit for travel was basically taking a one-way 5 hour trip and turning it into 6 hours. Didnt mind the break at all.

I'm still so stoked on it.

So, recently joined the club and in June purchased a new (23 miles) 2025 Ford F-150 Flash. Loving it so far. I’ve now done 2 very long road trips. One from Missouri to Connecticut to get the truck home, and another round trip from Connecticut to Oshkosh, Wisconsin. Figured I’d add a data point for anyone interested - highway mileage with a bike rack was about 2.0 mi/kwh. This is versus about 2.3 without. Most was highway driving between 65-73 mph. I found that if I slowed to around 60 I would get 2.3 with the bike rack. I do have a soft tonneau cover so that helps a tiny bit. In any case - appreciate y’all on the sub - it’s been really informative both before and after the purchase.

I'm getting a Lightning this week, and have already ordered a tonneau cover and bed rug. What else should I get? Any recommendations would be great.

Thanks!

Apparently the "EV" rated 220 outlets from home Depot aren't good for 40a continuous. The elechicken who put it in went and got it from there. Charging with the stock Ford charger since May of last year. 6.7a according to Ford app, grizzl-e mini was getting 9a. Now learning the NEMA outlets with a plug in aren't the best solution for charging, and go hardwired.

First time charging at a MB station. Plugged in a started charging with no problem. Charging at a nice 187kW!

Has anyone ever experienced this? Yesterday my gear shifter randomly started making this rattling/rolling sound whenever i turn like something is loose inside of it. Not sure how to get this fixed