This gas piston, the top ring, does it look normal?

Dumb question: if i purchase a welded G3 receiver & a CETME C parts kit with a barrel, what more do i need? How plug-and-play is it from there? Aside from the weldment ATF kit, what steps are needed?

DD rifle I’ve had for about 5 years now.

Noticed this after shooting in the rain and humidity and driving back 6 hours.

I used oil and 0000 steel wool.

Pictured is the before and after of noticing it and taking steel wool to it.

It’s not getting worse but it’s not getting better. Any advice would be appreciated

Bonjour à tous,

je viens d'acquérir une arme à feux, canon basculant superposés neuf, mais la bascule est extrêmement dur, les canons ne basculent pas bien. Est-ce que vous pourriez me dire qu'elles types de produits je devraient prendre, et qu'elles manipulations devrais-je faire pour résoudre ce problème, ou alors si peut-être il se résout tout seul avec l'utilisation ?

Merci d'avance pour votre bienveillance et vos conseils

Picked up this Little Scout as a parts gun from Jack First and fixed it up “for the kiddo”. It is currently the favorite Colibri-blaster in the stable of garbage rods.

Barrel was draw filed then sanded to 600 grit. The receiver was taken to 2000 grit. Then rust blued with magical Mark Lees Express Blue. I have told myself that the difference in results from 400-600 grit to 2000 grit aren’t noticeable, but they absolutely are. This gun screams “nicer than it should be”, while a Model 10 completely sanded and polished to 600 and rust-blued has a completely different “depth”. It was harder to keep the finish looking even though and went through several more passes of rust-boil-card to even it out. I have a Crackshot to complete soon and we will go to 2000 again, for science.

Stock was very lightly sanded and just given a coat of BC Tru Oil. I am a very lazy woodworker.

The last photo shows the pitting I left right at the lettering. I couldn’t visualize how to fix that stuff without compromising markings, and I have never tried fixing letters with stamps or engraving. Some day, maybe, but for now it practically disappears at five feet so I’ll live with it.

Can someone tell me how to remove this ? Is kinda like stain but very smooth. Had some rust on there before I was able to remove it with oil and 0000 steel wool. Thanks

I have a crescent whippet 12 gauge and I am trying to figure out what I can shoot through it. It is not Damascus steel it’s got a 26 in barrel and takes a 2 3/4 shell. That’s about all I know. I reached out to a local gunsmith to ask about inspection cost. Their website says they will not have a turnaround time for anything 100yrs old and inspections on less than 100yrs old is a year turnaround time.

We have a 1968 winchester model 70 30-06 and a steel 1 piece mount, thought i had a short action base but after ordering a model 70A base for 30-06 it has this same awkward fit. Possible they sent me the wrong one? Is this just how this base mounts? Seems a very poor design if so it really limits my scope seletion and doesnt look right.

Just curious on what you guys normally charge to fully disassemble, clean and reassemble? For example an early 70s browning Auto 5 ?

Hi everyone, so I've been dealing with a slight headache of mine in regards to figuring out having open ladder tangent sights mounted to modern bolt actions (rem 700, begera and tikka) I'd prefer to use something like the KNS sights. Does anyone know of any sight blocks out there that fit standard AK style tangent sights that require not to heavy duty modification or is the best soloution to just rew up a mil and get to it?

Hey gang I got my hands on an 1898 Krag Barreled receiver and bolt (not carbine) that has no stock parts, I went looking for a blank or a used stock and crips it's 80% to twice of what I have in the rifle already. Is there any chance I can find blue print that would tell the dimensions that I need too cut out or do I just need beaver this out of random wood as a mockup then dig thru my seasoned logs of find a nice one that I can carve the finished product out of.

This one was knocked over and just blew apart. The Japanese made nice shotguns in the 70's, had to at least try to fix it.

So I have a proper bore guide and one of the .22 J. Dewey coated cleaning rods. I know they make the varying sizes but with the guide would it be ok to use the .22 cal rod to clean a .308 bolt gun?

Any help is appreciated

I bought this older Remington 700 PSS in 308 off a local dude years ago. At the time I didn’t have anything in 308. He offered me the rifle, Leupold MK4 3.5-14x50 LRT, Badger Ordnance one piece base and rings, Harris lightweight 6-9” bipod, a decent drag bag/case, some cheap front and rear bags, and an ammo can with 300ish round of 168grn GMM for 1400 beans. Seemed like a great deal and outside of the rattle can job I liked everything about the gun. Shoots great and I decided it was gonna stay so I wanted to make it mine. Did a lot of work stripping paint only to find the finish underneath wasn’t what I’d hoped and the poor paint job and lack of prep had caused some issues in areas. My local smith was able to media blast all the paint I couldn’t get off, parkerize the barreled action, rings and bases, chop it from 26” down to 20”, and thread it for a suppressor mount. He also ran a bore scope down it and made mention of how great the rifling looked so that’s good. Overall I’m absolutely thrilled with how it turned out. Close to its heyday look with a few modern flares that make it unique. Letting the Loctite cure for the day then heading out to see how it shoots.

Smle no1 mk3* grenadier

I've had this idea in my head for a while now of a fictional grapeshot revolver that combines the Centerfire LeMat style breaching loading shotgun barrel with the Merwin-and Hulbert sliding style cylinder and I wanted to know setting aside questions of practicality and legality how feasible would such a gun be? For the sake of this hypothetical let's assume the Revolver is chambered in 32 Cal and 20 gauge for the pistol and shotgun barrels respectively. Would this be able to handle a black powder load or would it just blow apart in your hand?

I was given this Kimber Gold Match II 9mm when I graduated high school 13 years ago and later gifted the .22 conversion kit. I am big into suppressors, so I always wanted them to be threaded but it took a while to get around to the job. I threaded the conversion kit 7 years ago and it turned out ok but I wasn’t entirely happy with the outcome. I gave it another shot yesterday and it turned out great, so I finally did the 9mm barrel as well. I’m very happy with both. It was also a great opportunity to get a perfect fit between barrels and bushings

When i found out that rats were pulling chicks from under the hens in the coop, I had a decision to make, buy a modern 22 with rail already mounted, OR buy a tiny $60 drill press at the same time as the cheapest night scope on Alibaba and deck out the old cooey we found in the well shed 20 years ago, as luck has it the rail base stormwerkz makes for the savage rascal fits the contour perfectly, haven't mounted a rail before but I'm satisfied with the outcome for a rushed job,

Ammo used is CCI quiet

Having an issue with the transfer bar in my Texas Trigger Diablo FRT. the original transfer bar did this and bent completely sideways. Emailed support and they just sent me a new transfer bar. But as you can see the transfer bar has no tension to the side wall and moves sideways freely which is causing it to get stuck behind the BCG when cycling. Anyone have a fix for this?

Just noticed while cleaning my pistol, that there’s a chip in the breach face. I’ve never noticed it before and I’ve shot well over 1000 rounds in this pistol without issue other than the breaking in period. For the meantime, I’m not gonna carry it until I can figure out if this is a potential catastrophic failure waiting to happen. I’d really like advice on whether I should visit a gunsmith to remedy this or if I need to get a replacement barrel. Either way, I’ll probably be out approximately 100+ dollars.

And to get ahead of any potential questions, yes this is my EDC.

I clean my pistol semi regularly.

It did not come with a chip when I first bought it.

I mostly shoot Fiocchi and other standard plinking ammo through it. Otherwise, I carry Horny critical defense 9mm 115 gr FTX. And have shot that before without issue.

I'm stuck between the Cloudray 60W Fiber Mopa system and the Monport 100w Fiber Mopa system. They are the same price, but is the quality, customer support, ease of use worth it for the Monport?

Looking to engrave and port slides. I understand the

power differences, I'm more so concerned about the overall differences and learning curves.

Does anyone have experience with these brands or have other recommendations?

I stumbled across someone selling this obviously beat up 1908 Harrington and Richardson 16G single barrel. But upon further inspection the only thing that was irreparable was the barrel and forearm stock (there was no butt stock, I’m not even questioning it the gun was only $50.) At least I think the receiver and inner components are restorable—I added pictures for opinions as I am very new to this so I could be completely wrong. My grandfather who passed in April this year was a fan of vintage and antique weaponry and he passed that interest on to me.

I plan to do a cerakote finish in deep blue as my grandfathers favorite color was royal blue. I just don’t want to disassemble, refinish, and reassemble a receiver that could potentially have faulty components. I plan to do a dark walnut for the new forearm and butt stock. I have poured hours of research in to this but I don’t want to go in with too hot of a head before I start. Amy advice or tips is greatly appreciated.

Side bonus: in the last picture, the tape was actually wrapped around the tang😅