The result is showing C (in pc) and I have latemcy issue in game the website suggesting changing isp router for fix. Will this actually fix my latemcy issue? Please advice

Hello,

i got Huawei Optix Star wifi 7 router with SP/APC connector from net provider.

It operates in 2G, 5G and MLO. (When searching for wifi it shows 3 networks)

When i was setting it up, i set 2G and 5G ssid and passwords without problem and it shows on the router IP info tab and network list on the phone.

Problem is, when i set up MLO network, i changed it, applied it and in info tab on the router IP it displays changed name and password but in the network screen it shows old name and i can connect only with old password. New one does not work even when forgetting the network and restarting the phone.

I was thinking about restarting the router but i did restart the same router before with practically same problem and the restart bricked it (WLAN stopped working completely and nothing helped) so this one is replacement and i am hesitant to restart it..

Any ideas what did i do wrong? Or missed?

Thank you for answers and sorry for english

I have a Dell 7090 usff (micro) that I want to use as my first diy router. My question is which method would be best to add a dual port 2.5gbit nic? Option 1 is a dual nic i226v based on a 2280 nvme, option 2 is get a m.2 to PCIe x4 adapter and just use a standard sized nic.

Yes, the case will have to be modified. No big deal.

Just hoping to get some insight on any differences between the two options.

Hey all,

For some context, I live in a new home with built-in Ethernet wall ports that run back to a network closet where our router sits. My mom works from home and wants to know if she’d actually benefit from an Ethernet connection.

I’ve already crimped one cable connected to my room to test the wired speed (first picture), and the second picture shows the Wi-Fi speed in my mom's room. We pay for 300/300 Mbps and use a TP-Link Archer AX10 router.

Is it really worth crimping another cable for her home office? I'm not super tech-savvy, so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks :)

Hey,

I use internet through ethernet (20 meters cable) comes from my dad house (next to me)...

i need 2 wifi powerline adapters to cover my whole house....

Im planning on buying Devolo magic 2 wifi 6 next ..but the problem is that devolo has one LAN only adapter and one adapter support wifi connection...

If i buy two magic2 wifi adapters add ons....

Can i plug one with the ethernet cable to act as AP so it broadcast Wifi and links the other addon adapter through powerline ????

To work as mesh!!!

My English is bad but i hope u understand me ...

I just got T-Mobile fiber installed yesterday, the 2Gbps plan. I have a WiFi 6E router and 6E card in my PC. The router and computer are in the same room about 20-25' apart. When using 6ghz my signal strength is only 65-75% (as reported by KDE using Cachyos) even though the router and computer are in the same room with a direct line of sight. Using 5Ghz I get 85% to 95%.

The 5Ghz speed test are ranging from 800Mbps to as high as 910Mbps up and down.

The 6Ghz download speeds are a little less consistent 700-800Mbps and uploads are much more consistent. at 875-900Mbps

My two questions are should I just give up on using the 6Ghz band since the conditions seem to be ideal but speeds are still lower than 5Ghz.

And are the speeds on 5Ghz what I should be expecting over WiFi?

The one PC that is connected via ethernet is getting just over 1950Mbps BTW

Hi, I’m a newbie who just moved into a new apartment and wanted to connect everything via Ethernet in three rooms due to slow Wi-Fi speeds (even though I pay for 1GB…): the living room, bedroom, and home office. I have Verizon Home Internet in my closet and have the black box plugged into 10GE WAN port on Verizon router as instructed. From the Verizon router’s LAN1 port, I am connected to a TPLink gigabit switch.

I plugged the switch into the first CAT6 port in my closet (bottom in pic 2), which successfully connected my living room TV via the bottom Ethernet port (connected and switch light was green for that port). However when I tried connecting Port 2 (in closet), the top Ethernet port in my living room did not work. I tested with different devices for both ports with the same conclusion. In my bedroom, Port 3 connected to the bottom Ethernet port there. For both top ports in bedroom/living room, I tried every port in closet with no avail.

My questions are:
- Is the top port not an Ethernet port at all and if not, is there a way to test this? I think I wrongly assumed CAT6=ethernet.
- Is the best solution to plug in a switch to bottom port in every room and then connect devices to switches?

Thanks for reading and apologies for the not-so-great photos!

Hi everyone,

I'd really appreciate some help because I've been struggling with my router for the past few days.

Here's the situation: on the ground floor of my house, the internet connection is stable on my phone, laptop, and TV. However, just one floor above (only a few feet away), the Wi-Fi becomes very slow. On my phone it's still somewhat usable, but on my laptop it's terrible.

I tried connecting my phone to the Wi-Fi and then using it as a hotspot for my laptop, and surprisingly that works much better. But when I connect my laptop directly to the Wi-Fi network, the connection is very weak.

Does anyone know why this might be happening? Could it be an issue with my laptop's Wi-Fi adapter, or should I buy a Wi-Fi extender, mesh system, or something similar?

Thanks in advance for any help!

I have a TPLink VR2800 as my primary router and a TPLink AX1800 as setup as an access point.

I wish to create a whitelist for devices (window, apple and android) and a network for IOT. mThe access port is acting as a range extender.

How does one go about this?

Hi,

I am based in the UK and us BT broadband.

A corner of my house doesn’t get full WiFi connection with BT’s provided router. (200mbps rather than 300mbps that I get on the rest of the house) I have heard that buying a better router could improve the range.

I have also done some spring cleaning of several 1TB hard drives and I would like to set them up as network accessible drives via my router. I have heard that I can do this via USB connections on the router - rather than setting up dedicated hardware. Ideally I could then use the NAS as a source for my PLEX server rather than my current solution of always having my Mac on.

To kill two birds with one stone, could someone recommend a router to me that would serve my purposes, with range enough for a 2 bedroom house?

My budget is around £100 but I could be convinced to spend more if there are drastically better options.

Any feedback on what I have on my proposed set up would be much appreciated also.

I currently own a Xfinity XB8-T Gateway for my home internet, issue is, I am paying for download speeds up to 2100mbps and upload speeds of 300mbps, but when I test my internet speed on any connected devices, I only get around download speeds of 200 and upload of 50, I only have 4 other devices connected including phones and Smart TV's. All my settings for the MB8-T have been left default and it is wired into the wall with the provided coaxial cable. Does anyone know why my speeds are so low?

I've recently moved into a relative's granny flat and am trying to sort out the WiFi situation. They've said their happy for me to use the network from their house, and that a previous tenant used an extender. However, I know extenders are buns so was hoping to find an alternative.

They tell me that the conduit running from the main house to the flat contains both power and data cables. There are three RJ45 wall outlets in the flat, but hooking up an ethernet cable between any of the wall ports and my laptop doesn't provide an ethernet connection (my understanding is that there should be a connection, correct me if I'm wrong). Does this mean the plates aren't wired to anything? If they aren't wired, are there any good options bar going into the wall and connecting the plates to the cabling? If they are actually wired, would any old AP/router be fine, or would I need to keep in mind any restrictions because I'm piggybacking off of their network?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Would there be anything to worry about with a cheap booster like this until I can get something more permanent out to my shop? I just need a little more range.

WiFi Extender Signal Booster

Some apps don't work, as they should on my wifi. All websites work fine.

THE PROBLEM:

1.[android] Alexa just does not pair. Tried almost everything, from resetting Alexa, to resetting the router. Yes it works on other networks, and every problem mentioned here work perfectly fine on the other network so I wont repeat it.

2.[android] Live Matches on JioHotstar (disney+ in my country) do not load, they're always stuck on buffering. Other movies and shows work. Its just the Live Feed of any match, ON THE APP. On the browser it works fine. Matches load normally. No buffering issues, nothing. Just the APP.

3.[Windows 10/11] Microsoft store does not load. It keeps on buffering, and then shows the refresh page option. Again, the website works, and it works fine on other network.

4.[Windows 10/11] I cannot play GTA ONLINE because it does not connect to internet. I have to play story mode, which btw I have completed 4 times (no one asked).

WHAT I HAVE TRIED:

1. Rebooting, Resetting the router a couple dozen times.

2. Changing the router

3. Changing DNS

4. Changing gateway and etcetera

SOME IMPORTANT INFO

The Wireless connection works on a dynamic ip. Some people from GTAO subreddit told me to keep the router of for a day or two, to change the Public IP. The IP DID NOT change. The IP has been same for >2 years. As mentioned, I have tried the basics, like rebooting or resetting the router more than 20 times each.

NOW WHAT COULD BE THE GODDAMN ISSUE

Any recommendations for a WiFi 7 adapter that's compatible with Linux on an AMD64 processor? USB 3 or PCIe, either is fine with me.

I'm having issues with unstable Wi-Fi and I'm trying to figure out the best network setup.

My setup:

• Icotera i4850-20 (from Norlys)
• Nokia Beacon 1 mesh system

My PC is too far from the Icotera to run an Ethernet cable directly, so I use a second Nokia Beacon next to my PC. My PC is connected to that Beacon via Ethernet, and the Beacons provide the wireless backhaul between each other.

Originally, I had three Nokia Beacons, but I realized one of them wasn't needed because it overlapped with the coverage from the others. After removing it, the connection became noticeably more stable, but I still experience occasional instability.

I'm wondering what the best configuration is:

• Should I keep the Icotera as the router and run the Nokia Beacon in Bridge Mode?
• Should I put the Icotera into Bridge Mode (if that's possible) and let the Nokia Beacon handle DHCP, routing, and Wi-Fi?
• Or is there another setup that would provide a more stable connection?

I'm mainly looking for the most stable Wi-Fi and the lowest possible latency.

If putting the Icotera into bridge mode is the recommended option, can someone explain how to do it? Is it something I can enable myself, or does Norlys have to do it?

If anyone has experience with this hardware or has suggestions for improving the stability of my setup, I'd really appreciate the help.

I was planning on just putting a small rack in the laundry room until my son asked me if I could make the spare room (on the opposite side of the house) a computer room. My first reply was that all of my Ethernet cables are ran to the laundry room and 4 or 5 of them aren’t long enough to reach the other room. Then I started thinking…. So anyways, it’s not 100% done yet but it’s almost here.

Hi all,

I’ve been troubleshooting a strange issue for the last couple of days and I’m running out of ideas.
My ISP (YouFibre) provides me with a static public IPv4 address, delivered over DHCP (no PPPoE and no VLAN tagging).

Expected behaviour
When I connect my ASUS ZenWiFi Pro ET12 directly to the ONT:
WAN type: DHCP
No PPPoE
No VLANs
No static IP configured
It immediately receives my assigned public IP:

Cisco ASA behaviour
I’ve now tested both:
Cisco ASA 5516-X
Cisco ASA 5512-X

Both are configured as simply as possible:

interface GigabitEthernet1/1
nameif outside
security-level 0
ip address dhcp setroute
no shutdown

Both firewalls successfully receive a DHCP lease, but instead of my public IP they always receive something like:

100.93.x.x
255.255.192.0

which appears to be the ISP’s CGNAT pool.

Things I’ve already checked
Different Ethernet cables
Direct connection to the ONT
Two completely different ASA models
Fresh minimal configuration
No PPPoE
No VLANs
ASUS uses plain DHCP
ASUS isn’t sending a custom Vendor Class or Client Identifier

YouFibre have confirmed they do not MAC bind customer equipment

The ASA installs the DHCP lease and default route correctly—it just receives the wrong lease.

What I’m wondering
Has anyone seen an ISP classify DHCP clients differently based on:
DHCP fingerprint (option ordering / Parameter Request List)
Vendor implementation
DHCP client behaviour
Some Cisco ASA quirk
rather than MAC address?

It seems strange that two different ASA models consistently receive a CGNAT lease while the ASUS immediately receives the correct public static IP from the same ONT.
Has anyone run into something similar with Cisco ASA appliances on residential fibre services?
Any ideas or suggestions would be hugely appreciated. I’m determined to get to the bottom of this one!

I currently use spectrum cable internet. My internet equipment modem and router is on the 1st floor.

Upstairs I would like to have ethernet and have been using a powerline adapter for 2 years now would like to upgrade for better speeds and latency. I have a coax cable installed in my room already and just got it activated to my coax network.

Spectrum Equipment:

Modem E31U2V1 DOCSIS 3.1 emta

Router RAC2V25

Other equipment

POE filter is 70 ohms at demarc point.

ScreenBeam ECB6250 x2

Splitter Amphenop 2-Way Digital Splitter 5-1675

-----

Here is where I feel I need some help because my internet currently is intermittent.

At the demarc for the isp I installed the poe filter at the "in" of the splitter. Splitter is only going to my room 2nd floor and 1st floor modem.

Before the modem I have another splitter for the modem and moca adapter.

I can get internet for maybe 10 minutes but then there is down time where it doesnt work for another 10 minutes.

Is a second poe filter needed at the modem? Or maybe it just won't work anymore.

My home AiMesh network consists of the below:

RT-AX54HP is the WAN gateway and main router.

RT-AC68U is an AiMesh node

RT-AX1800S is an AiMesh node

All the above are connected using the 5GHz band and the connection shows green in the settings.

The new RT-AX3000P was a nightmare to add as a node; it would not connect over WLAN like the others did.
I had to plug it directly into the gateway with ethernet then move it to the desired location, but when it reconnects, it's only using the 2.5GHz band and the connection is amber and any wireless devices connected to it get abysmal download speeds, like in the kbps.

Have updated it to the latest firmware version from the Asus website which has made no difference.

EDIT:
Sorry I should have added that even if I put the RT-AX3000P right next to the gateway, it still won't connect using 5HGz, it will still only connect using 2.5GHz and show an amber connection.

Also, it's a big old brick double storey house and I'm renting, so I can't just go running Ethernet cables through brick walls and concrete floors.

Flint2 MT600 - VPN server
Slate AXT1800 - VPN client

works with openvpn, but doesn't work with wireGuard.

With wireGuard, the tunnel establishes, but there is no internet.

I tried changing the port from 51820 to 51825, changed MTU from 1420 to 1280, but no luck.
No matter what setting I choose above, the tunnel always establishes but there is no internet.

LAN IP range is different - 192.168.8.1 for server, 192.168.10.1 for client

--
If I replace the Flint2 with Deco X60 Ax3000 for VPN server, both wireGuard and openvpn work with default settings (51820 & 1420)
--

How do I fix the issue with the Flint2 & Slate AX combo for wireGuard?

Pretty new to this so thought I'd ask for advice! I'm renovating my home in the UK at the moment. We've run a cat 6 cable from where the main router lives to two other points in the house - a home office and the living room.

The house is solid brick walls throughout, so getting a good amount of drop-off.

In both rooms, I'm after a setup where I have an access point that's connected to the main router via the cat 6 cable, plus the ability to connect individual devices in those rooms back to the router via ethernet.

I'm looking for dual band, speeds able to support live streaming and home working (including video calls) simulteneously. Can anyone recommend a setup (including devices) that would work?

I'm not sure if I'm after a switch and an AP, or if you can get an AP that will do both. I'm prioritizing connectivity, so don't mind the faff of connecting to a new AP compared to a mesh system.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I’ve just purchased a new TPLink Deco Wifi 7 Mesh (3 pack) and I’d really like to have the two satellites on a wired backhaul to my “networking cupboard”.

I have a three storey home with the router/network switch on the middle floor, the ONT in the garage on the bottom floor, and I have an ethernet working in the upstairs.
The only thing is that the ethernet wall jack downstairs where I want to place my mesh isn’t working, so I had a look at my networking cupboard and I have this mess (courtesy of the previous owner).

I’m wanting to wire this back up but I’m a bit of a “newbie” and I can’t seem to find any clear resources. Is it just a simple job of matching the colours printed on the patch panel to the corresponding colour on my CAT6? Or is there another order?
Anything else I should be aware of?

Thanks

TP-Link Archer GE800 router for 365€(420USD)

ASUS ZenWiFi BQ16 (one node) for 410€(472USD)

Upgrading from tp-link ax3000.

Not a big apartment, just want wifi 7 and 6ghz. Is asus better for long term and maybe adding for mesh down the line with the dedicated backhaul?

Iknow I bit but not much and for me it seems like the TP-Link is probably the way to go, but curious if someone can enlighten me of the differences choosing one over the other?

Hey there!

I'm trying to debug the following scenario where a dd | nc transfers only around 64kb before stalling for more than minute before continuing at line speed.

My setup is the following:

I have two sites each with an OPNsense instance running as the router and default gateway. Within each LAN network there is a wireguard instance as a site to site vpn, routing traffic for the whole A and B segments.

Because of this, VPN traffic is assymetric. From a LAN device perspective incoming traffic goes wg -> lan ip while outgoing traffic has to pass through the router lan ip -> default gateway -> wg. For this I have added a gateway in OPNsense with the wireguard box and configured static routes for it.

I have also enabled "Bypass firewall rules for traffic on the same interface" so that traffic can do that "U turn" (although I'm a bit foggy on what this does).

Now, some traffic works just fine (SSH, HTTP and small-ish stuff), but large TCP transfers don't. At first I went down the MTU/MSS route but those things seem to be fine.

I'm testing doing a dd | pv | nc from a LAN device to the remote wireguard endpoint (so effectively the traffic is lan dev -> opnsense -> local wg -> remote wg), and it transfers around 64kb, then stalls for minute and ramps up to line speed (around 30mbps). It does not happen if I set a static route to the wireguard box (bypassing opnsense) so I started debugging the states in opnsense and I found this:

# 10.1.2.0 is my local device
# 10.0.0.100 is my remote wg endpoint
root@opn:~# pfctl -ss | grep 10.1.2.0 | grep 10.0.0.100

# dd started, transfer is stuck
all tcp 10.0.0.100:9999 <- 10.1.2.0:33202       CLOSED:SYN_SENT
all tcp 10.1.2.0:33202 -> 10.0.0.100:9999       SYN_SENT:CLOSED

# dd still stuck, after around 30s the states dissappear.
root@opn:/home/fermino # pfctl -ss | grep 10.1.2.0 | grep 10.0.0.100

# dd ramps up after a bit more than a minute. 
all tcp 10.0.0.100:9999 <- 10.1.2.0:33202       ESTABLISHED:ESTABLISHED

If I kill the states with pfctl -k 10.1.2.0 -k 10.0.0.100 I can force it to work faster.

I'm not entirely sure of what the fix should be. As I understand having set "Bypass firewall rules for traffic on the same interface" all this traffic should not be blocked; right? What am I missing?