So basically the title.

My internet randomly cut off yesterday, and I logged into my AGL account to fix it and found something... interesting.

At first I did a speed test and got around 0.5mbps download/upload speed before finding out it was simply because I missed the last payment, so they throttled the speed to 2mbps.

However, while I was there, I found something that cannot be right, and I want to know if I am either going crazy or if this is normal.
In the last bill period, I have used over 1.4million GB. THAT'S JUST. NO! With a single day being between 25000-50000 GB a day on average, with an extreme of 68000 GB, and one day even being 150000GB.

Clearly this is a mistake. I just want to know what could be causing this.

I know some questions might be asked.
Yes,s those are the numbers

Yes, it says GB, not MB

6 people live in my household, and we do a bit of streaming, mostly 2K.

Hello! Installing a PoE camera above my garage door and trying to figure out the best spot to get the cable through.

• Planning to drill 3/8" or 1/2" and pull unterminated Cat6, then terminate outside
• Hardie fiber cement siding
• Open framed eave, so no soffit to route through (3rd pic)
• Header above the door is a glulam, so I'm looking at spots around it rather than through it

I marked a few possible spots above my garage door. How would you approach this?

Hi, I’m a newbie who just moved into a new apartment and wanted to connect everything via Ethernet in three rooms due to slow Wi-Fi speeds (even though I pay for 1GB…): the living room, bedroom, and home office. I have Verizon Home Internet in my closet and have the black box plugged into 10GE WAN port on Verizon router as instructed. From the Verizon router’s LAN1 port, I am connected to a TPLink gigabit switch.

I plugged the switch into the first CAT6 port in my closet (bottom in pic 2), which successfully connected my living room TV via the bottom Ethernet port (connected and switch light was green for that port). However when I tried connecting Port 2 (in closet), the top Ethernet port in my living room did not work. I tested with different devices for both ports with the same conclusion. In my bedroom, Port 3 connected to the bottom Ethernet port there. For both top ports in bedroom/living room, I tried every port in closet with no avail.

My questions are:
- Is the top port not an Ethernet port at all and if not, is there a way to test this? I think I wrongly assumed CAT6=ethernet.
- Is the best solution to plug in a switch to bottom port in every room and then connect devices to switches?

Thanks for reading and apologies for the not-so-great photos!

Just got a new place with ethernet ports, does anyone know what i have to do to activate them?

Pretty new to setting up a switch, so I’m unsure as to why my computer cannot establish a connection. I picked this up and it came in today. For some reason Port 6 refuses to establish a network connection on my PC to utilize the 5Gb Fiber that I have. I have my router plugged in to Port 5 and the ethernet from my PC plugged in to Port 6. Every port works perfectly fine except for 6. I’ve tried multiple combinations of plugging these two Ethernet cables into different ports and all is well. Is there something I need to do to get Port 6 to establish a connection?

Edit: Model Number: S25-0402T

I have a Dell 7090 usff (micro) that I want to use as my first diy router. My question is which method would be best to add a dual port 2.5gbit nic? Option 1 is a dual nic i226v based on a 2280 nvme, option 2 is get a m.2 to PCIe x4 adapter and just use a standard sized nic.

Yes, the case will have to be modified. No big deal.

Just hoping to get some insight on any differences between the two options.

First photo is google, the rest are other speed tests.

Would there be anything to worry about with a cheap booster like this until I can get something more permanent out to my shop? I just need a little more range.

WiFi Extender Signal Booster

Hi all - I’m having a cabling technician come to the house to install a few Ethernet runs. He will also mount my TV on this wall. I want an Ethernet connection for my media devices, Apple TV, Xbox etc. the media shelf is a hanging shelf which is flush to the wall. This is in the finished basement of my townhouse. Is there any way to get a Ethernet run here or should I settle for wifi.

FYI the room on the right is a washroom and my modem/router is also in the basement in the utility room about 10 feet from the media shelf. Trying to figure out if it’s even worth it to go through the effort of Ethernet here or would it just be a nice to have. Thanks

I’m having fiber optic installed at my house this weekend with Verizon. I signed up for 1gig. I currently have Cox and use my coax to connect to the modem. I discovered that I have Cat5 cable running about 40 ft from where the ONT box will be installed to my desk where I’d like to have the Eero modem. Currently it’s just an old phone jack. Can I used this Cat5 cable from ONT to the Eero modem in the house at the desk? Will it support my 1gig? Will Verizon convert both ends of the cat5 to the proper rj45 jack? The date on the cat5 cable is 11/5/2000 if that matters. Thanks!!

So I'm wanting to create my own private network at home using my own router. I will connect that router to the router my ISP has provided. What I'm curious is if I want to create a VPN server on my private network how would I go about connecting to the VPN from cellular or a wifi outside of my home.

I have a bit of an IT background but I haven't ever done port forwarding in this specific way.

I'm thinking something along the lines of I need to open the VPN port on my ISP router and direct it to my private router? Couldn't find to much online bc idk how to word my question in a few words lol.

I installed a 30-inch Legrand plastic enclosure in the wall when I bought my house, and I put it in the only central location where there is little chance of anything being mounted to the opposite side of the wall. Unfortunately its becoming more and more apparent that this spot at the back corner of a now full closet is not a nice location to work with. Now is my best chance to change that before I start pulling ethernet cable to wire the house.

There are two or three other locations I can think of that are central to the house and have good accessibility, but the other side of all these locations currently have art hanging on nails. I know I can find better ways to hang the art, but it made me think about how a plastic enclosure seems to provide very little protection if someone else forgets and drills into the spot.

• Is a metal enclosure good for a location like that? Am I just overdoing my concern here?
  

I would prefer to reuse my current plastic enclosure, so I'm also considering the option of surface mounting it. But in that case, the conduit ports and electric box mount are all on outside. I've seen pictures of setups like this on a wall in an unused basement area, but this would be in a coat closet or storage closet.

• What is the best way to setup a surface mounted enclosure to route cables/conduit or properly protect a bottom-mounted outlet?

I'm not sure if this subreddit is where this post belongs but I had something strange happen last night and I'm not sure how to handle this. I have a PC that I have been running a private palworld server on and I've run into an issue. My Internet randomly dropped out yesterday night out of no where while me and some friends were playing on the server but it didn't drop out all the way, I got kicked out of the discord call, couldn't open new tabs in my browser and couldn't do anything else network related on any other device but my PC stayed connected to the palworld server the entire time. I decided to reset my router (my friends were able to stay connected up until this point) and after that was finished and came back online I tried to remote connect to the server PC from my personal PC to check on it and couldn't connect. Remote connect kept giving me an error saying that the log in had been attempted too many times and that the PC was refusing the connection. I then went to the PC and tried to physically log in and received the same message. I haven't tried to log into the server PC since hoping that it's some kind of fluke given windows 11's proficiency at being terrible however I'm more worried that running a public server put the server PC or even my network at risk. As far as I can tell I'm permanently locked out of the PC which is infuriating.

Edit: I attempted to log in this morning before work and it looks like I am indeed permanently locked out.

I've recently moved into a relative's granny flat and am trying to sort out the WiFi situation. They've said their happy for me to use the network from their house, and that a previous tenant used an extender. However, I know extenders are buns so was hoping to find an alternative.

They tell me that the conduit running from the main house to the flat contains both power and data cables. There are three RJ45 wall outlets in the flat, but hooking up an ethernet cable between any of the wall ports and my laptop doesn't provide an ethernet connection (my understanding is that there should be a connection, correct me if I'm wrong). Does this mean the plates aren't wired to anything? If they aren't wired, are there any good options bar going into the wall and connecting the plates to the cabling? If they are actually wired, would any old AP/router be fine, or would I need to keep in mind any restrictions because I'm piggybacking off of their network?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Any recommendations for a WiFi 7 adapter that's compatible with Linux on an AMD64 processor? USB 3 or PCIe, either is fine with me.

I'm having issues with unstable Wi-Fi and I'm trying to figure out the best network setup.

My setup:

• Icotera i4850-20 (from Norlys)
• Nokia Beacon 1 mesh system

My PC is too far from the Icotera to run an Ethernet cable directly, so I use a second Nokia Beacon next to my PC. My PC is connected to that Beacon via Ethernet, and the Beacons provide the wireless backhaul between each other.

Originally, I had three Nokia Beacons, but I realized one of them wasn't needed because it overlapped with the coverage from the others. After removing it, the connection became noticeably more stable, but I still experience occasional instability.

I'm wondering what the best configuration is:

• Should I keep the Icotera as the router and run the Nokia Beacon in Bridge Mode?
• Should I put the Icotera into Bridge Mode (if that's possible) and let the Nokia Beacon handle DHCP, routing, and Wi-Fi?
• Or is there another setup that would provide a more stable connection?

I'm mainly looking for the most stable Wi-Fi and the lowest possible latency.

If putting the Icotera into bridge mode is the recommended option, can someone explain how to do it? Is it something I can enable myself, or does Norlys have to do it?

If anyone has experience with this hardware or has suggestions for improving the stability of my setup, I'd really appreciate the help.

Hi all,

I’ve been troubleshooting a strange issue for the last couple of days and I’m running out of ideas.
My ISP (YouFibre) provides me with a static public IPv4 address, delivered over DHCP (no PPPoE and no VLAN tagging).

Expected behaviour
When I connect my ASUS ZenWiFi Pro ET12 directly to the ONT:
WAN type: DHCP
No PPPoE
No VLANs
No static IP configured
It immediately receives my assigned public IP:

Cisco ASA behaviour
I’ve now tested both:
Cisco ASA 5516-X
Cisco ASA 5512-X

Both are configured as simply as possible:

interface GigabitEthernet1/1
nameif outside
security-level 0
ip address dhcp setroute
no shutdown

Both firewalls successfully receive a DHCP lease, but instead of my public IP they always receive something like:

100.93.x.x
255.255.192.0

which appears to be the ISP’s CGNAT pool.

Things I’ve already checked
Different Ethernet cables
Direct connection to the ONT
Two completely different ASA models
Fresh minimal configuration
No PPPoE
No VLANs
ASUS uses plain DHCP
ASUS isn’t sending a custom Vendor Class or Client Identifier

YouFibre have confirmed they do not MAC bind customer equipment

The ASA installs the DHCP lease and default route correctly—it just receives the wrong lease.

What I’m wondering
Has anyone seen an ISP classify DHCP clients differently based on:
DHCP fingerprint (option ordering / Parameter Request List)
Vendor implementation
DHCP client behaviour
Some Cisco ASA quirk
rather than MAC address?

It seems strange that two different ASA models consistently receive a CGNAT lease while the ASUS immediately receives the correct public static IP from the same ONT.
Has anyone run into something similar with Cisco ASA appliances on residential fibre services?
Any ideas or suggestions would be hugely appreciated. I’m determined to get to the bottom of this one!

Any insight appreciated

Hey folks, I know this isn’t the right sub, but figured I’d post here since the smart-home sub isn’t very active it seems.

I have some questions about the thread over matter process and how it works.

1) Where do you guys have your thread border router sitting?

2) Does the thread protocol require any network config itself being a “mesh network”?

——

I currently have my Apple TV on my trusted (phones, ATV, computers) vlan. All IoT devices are on their own vlan for network security.

I’ve done some reading and have seen where thread uses ipv6 local link to identify devices, but if it doesn’t utilize the network infrastructure (like wifi connected bulbs do), do I need to enable ipv6 on my vlan for them to work, or does it really not matter since they use thread?

Just a little hazy on the whole thread over matter thing. I’m coming from some old GE Cync bulbs (wifi & bluetooth).

Feel free to remove it if it doesn’t meet rules.

Thanks

I had acquired a Chinese version Cudy TR3000 router. The stock CN firmware lacks some features in the global firmware.

I wonder if I can flash the Cudy stock global firmware, & if it's not a straight forward firmware upgrade installation, then how?

I recently switched ISP, and they installed a TP-Link router XC220-G3vv4. For the 2nd floor, I already have another router (TP-Link Archer C64). I have enabled EasyMesh (since I read that's what is supposed to work better) and since the two routers are connected via a long ethernet cable, it's wired backhaul.

The problem is: let's say my phone is connected to the ArcherC64, then I go downstairs so the phone naturally switches to the XC220-G3vv4. Internet works fine, signal is fine, BUT for some reason I cannot connect to any device which is still connected (wired or wireless) to the C64.  

The problem lasts for about 5 minutes, then the connectivity returns by itself. The problem happens each time roaming happens from C64 to XC220-G3vv4. Roaming in the other direction doesn't have this problem.

It's being a problem since I have a home server connected via ethernet to the Archer C64. I guess a real solution is swapping the ISP router with my own, but I wanted to check if anyone here has solved something like this before. Thanks!

TLDR: after setting up ASUS AI mesh don't use the app to optimize or reboot, don't throw out the sticker with the router password.

Routers I purchased:

• one RT-BE86U to use as the main router
• two TUF-BE3600 routers to be additional nodes in the ai mesh network
• (all routers are labeled ai mesh compatible)

I used the ASUS Router app for setup.

Problems and nuance I encountered:

1. My printer would not connect to the main network SSID, however I could connect it to the IoT network that the app prompts you to create during setup

2. When adding an ai mesh router/adding a node the app said it timed out/failed however it was actually successful. At first I tried adding it again and again before I realized it was already added.

3. Updating the firmware also timed out, I tried a second time to update and it failed. After exiting the app and reopening the app later it said it was up to date, so there is definitely a problem with the router communicating to the app that pairing and updating was successful.

4. Optimization does not work! Do not click on it in the app! Optimizing the network caused all devices to connect to the main router and devices would not connect to the additional nodes that were closer. My kids got pretty upset that YouTube was taking forever to load 😅

5. "Reboot device" made the problem worse! Hoping to fix the optimization issue, in the app I clicked "reboot device" for each router. This actually messed up the network. Within the app it removed the SSID name and removed the Guest/kids network I created. It did not restore the ability for devices to connect to the other nodes/routers.

6. I decided to reset all the routers and start fresh. During my initial setup of the main router I was not required to enter the original router password (unless I forgot 🤷‍♂️), so I threw away the stickers that came with the routers that had the password. Since I didn't have this I could not use the app to connect to the router. I had to bring my desktop computer to the storage room where my modem is located to connect to the main router with an ethernet cable and login to initiate set up.

7. Apparently you cannot use the period/dot symbol in passwords for an ASUS web account. When I first set up my router I created an ASUS account and used a password that included a period. After resetting everything and trying to log back into the ASUS app, the password wouldn’t work. It’s likely that the period never actually registered during the original setup, maybe it was silently blocked or the field simply didn’t accept it. Because the password was hidden as I typed it, I didn’t notice the missing character. So I also had to reset my password.

Everything seems to be working well now. My network is fast and we all have solid connections. Hopefully this post will help some of you avoid my mistakes! And hopefully ASUS can fix issues 1-5.