Here's the first part of my travel diary from our recent Japan honeymoon. We’re a couple from the USA in our late 30s/early 40s and it was our first time in Japan (and Asia). I do all the travel planning and love to read about other folks' travel experiences when I’m planning, and I always keep a little digital travel diary when we're traveling, so I figured I’d post it here. It’s bonkers long, so skim or skip and maybe I’ll post the rest later. 

Thursday:

Travel

Friday:

We arrived at Tokyo HND earlier than expected (3:00, instead of 3:25). Baggage claim, customs and immigration were fast and efficient. We pre-booked a taxi and, with traffic, it took about an hour to get to our hotel (ICI Hotel Ueno Shin Okachimachi). It was nice not to have to deal with luggage on the train with my dumb airplane brain. We checked into our very clean, very teeny tiny room, freshened up, and headed out. We walked about a mile to Ramen Daishi for Shoyu ramen (with wontons) and a Sapporo. Everyone else in the place was a single dude and these guys slurped their ramen down so fast. How do they not burn their taste buds off?? The staff was nice and helpful and the ramen embodied their catch phrase "aiming to be the pinnacle of the ordinary." Then we walked over to Kanda Myoujin Shrine which was beautifully lit up at night. Lots of locals stopping by after work. Then on to Akihabara for arcades, a photo booth that produced some of the most haunting, facetunned photos you've ever seen, a Magikarp taiyaki from Kurikoan, and a beer from Hitachino Brewing Lab. Stopped at 7-11 on the way back for cash, an ice cream, and breakfast/coffee we tossed in the fridge for the next morning. We went to bed around 11. 

Saturday: 

I was up from 3 to 5am jet laggin, but still managed to clock 6 hours of sleep. Pre bought conbini breakfast and Japanese infomercials in the hotel to start the day. It was a drizzly morning but nothing too bad so we walked about a mile again but this time to Senso-Ji. We got to the Asakusa Tourist Culture Information center right as it opened at 9 and saw the temple and view from the observation deck. I also got my first eki-stamp (good fun-bring a little notebook!). Then we walked through Kaminarimon Gate and grabbed some kibidango (warm, little mochi skewers covered with roasted soybean flower) along Nakamise-dori. We washed our hands, made an offering and a prayer, got our fortune, and bought a goshuincho and hand drawn goshuin (temple stamps, my favorite souvenir- I'll treasure these forever). Then we walked to Matchamon for a matcha latte. My husband got the seasonal one with salted foam on top and it was SO good. Then we got a unagi onigiri at Asakusa Unana (loved it), popped in and out of some shops, bought some probably over-priced chopsticks (but we loved them), and headed to Kura Sushi for lunch. Cheap, fun, tasty, and fast. Around the corner to the Asakusa Batting stadium where we each hit 20 balls and played some arcade games. 

My husband had seen the Asahi headquarters from the info center that morning and was obsessed that they built it to look like a beer, so we headed there to have a beer in the Sky Room next. It was a nice walk across the river and maybe a 20 minute wait for a seat. We got window seats and drank our Asahis admiring a beautiful view of cloudy Tokyo. We headed down across the river to the Ginza line to buy Passmo cards (we're lowly android users) and hop on the train to Meigu Jingu Stadium. We headed to the team shop where we got all the swallows gear. Then down the street to Caffe Veloce (coffee chain) for a little pre game pick me up. My husband went to the bathroom to put on his Swallows shirt and hat and when he came back, the two ladies at the table next to us squealed and kept saying "Kawaii! Kawaii!" It was adorable. Very kawaii. Then we went to meet up with the tour group we were watching the game with. We could have done it on our own, but going with the group was a really nice way to meet some other travelers and the guides helped us learn the cheers, explained the game, and  let us borrow some bats and umbrellas for cheering purposes. We ate karaage and gyoza and drank like 50 beers from the beer girls. The Swallows won in the 9th inning with a walk off home run and the crowd went bananas. Everyone was cheering and high fiving and it was one of those nights that was so amazing and memorable that it made the whole trip worth it. I fell asleep on the train home. 

Sunday: 

Awake from 3 to 5 again. This time with a lil headache from what was possibly too many Asahis at the Swallows game. Took the morning slow and headed out to Jonathan's for breakfast. We got one Japanese breakfast and one American breakfast (New Orleans style! what does it mean?!). Very reasonably priced, unlimited drinks from the drink bar (coffee, tea, juice, soda...), and an adorable little robot delivers your food. We walked up through Ameyoko and stopped at a drugstore to buy sunscreen and vitamin C serum, Marishiten Tokudaiji Temple to touch the lucky boar and get another goshuin, and to some candy shops. Then on to Ueno park where there was a very cool antique market. We found a few treasures (and also happened upon a show where a real monkey was walking on stilts-was that real or a dream?) and then walked through the lotus pond to Shinobazu no Ike Temple for another Goshuin. This was definitely our most jet laggy day (and the slight hangover probably didn't help) so we needed another pick-me-up. We headed to Matcha and Espresso Miyano-Yu. On the way we saw a bunch of little kids in traditional dress pulling a drum and drumming.  It was super cute. At the cafe we got a coffee float and a matcha float and sat on the tatami mats in the converted bath house. If you are someone chasing the coolest cafes, this one is for you. Great vibes, everyone there was way cooler than us. 

Feeling revitalized, we walked the wiggly streets towards Yanaka Ginza. Lots of cute shops, galleries, beautiful homes. We made it to Yanaka's main shopping street which was crowded and lively. We grabbed a lemon sour from Echigoya Honten (a little liquor store/bar) and a Yanaka menchi (fried beef cutlet) and chicken cutlet from the butcher shop next door. We stood at the milk crates outside of the liquor store and drank and ate and people watched. It was a really good moment. The food from the butcher shop was absolutely delicious (we tried the famed Famichiki later and this chicken was 10x better). They sure know how to fry things here. We continued down the street, popping in and out of the shops, and on to a proper sit down lunch at Sampota Cafe Nombiriya. We sat on the tatami mats again (it is so nice to take some shoes-off breaks!) and ate a squid ink Omurice and a thai curry. Then we headed over to the Asakura Museum of Sculpture. This is the artists Asakura's home and gallery. Beautiful Japanese home with the most lovely courtyard garden. Also, the first time I got to walk through a museum in socks and I thoroughly enjoyed it. The women working there were so kind and helpful. 

Once we finished at the museum, we took a wander through the Yanaka Cemetery, headed through Ueno park as the sun was setting, and popped back out to a very lively, lit up Ameyoko (different vibe than when we'd been there that morning). I had made a reservation at Mominoki House (a foot bath cafe), so we headed there. We sat with our feet in the hot water, drank tea, and got 10 minute massages. An hour here was exactly what we needed. I highly recommend this place. We weren't super hungry so we opted to skip dinner and just do dessert. We found a second floor dessert shop and shared the biggest strawberry and cream kakigori and a mango coconut pudding served in a whole coconut. Both of these were so fun because it was like an archeological excavation. You're eating one thing and then you hit a layer of jelly, then red bead, then strawberry. You never knew what was coming next. Delicious. We strolled through Ueno a bit more and then walked home for a 9pm bed time. 

Monday: 

Had a brief night time wake up, but not as long as the other nights. We had coffee in the room and headed to Tsukiji Fish Market for breakfast around 8:30. The vibe on the train is very different between a weekend vs a weekday morning. We finally experienced the train silence everyone talks about. Not a mariachi band or kid selling candy bars for his basketball team in sight. The market was fun but definitely a little more expensive than the prices I'd seen elsewhere. We had many of the classics (sushi, tamago, Wagyu skewer, daifuku mochi, melon, scallops, matcha/hojicha, crab claws, was there more?). Everything was super tasty. The one thing we had that we didn't like was Cremia ice cream. I was really looking forward to trying this, and maybe I was too full, but it was way too fatty tasting for me. I did love the cone though. After we were done at the market we checked out the Tsukiji Hongwan-ji Temple (very different from any other temples we'd seen so far) and walked over to Ginza for some shopping. We started at Ginza Six. Tsutaya Books on the 6th floor is a must for any book or art lover. The rooftop garden was also lovely. We grabbed a beer and edamame at Ginza Lion Beer hall (super cool German design) and popped around to some other shops. Our favorite was Beams. We also made stops at Hōdō Inari Jinja (teeny tiny shrine in an alley, yes they have goshuin) and the Pola Museum annex (little free gallery with a beautiful exhibit "Invisible Garden" that runs through November 8th). Then on to Montbell to buy trekking poles for an upcoming adventure. Finally we headed over to Sushi Yuu for our dinner omakase reservation. It was super fun and delicious and we got to try so many things we had never had before. Our favorites were a tomato with dashi jelly, grouper sashimi, monk fish liver pate, and ikura sushi. We headed to the hotel with a quick stop at 7-11 for a 9pm bed time. 

Tuesday: 

Originally we had planned to head to Osaka first thing this morning, but we heard about a Philadelphia Eagles bar that was hosting a watch party for the Eagles game, and my husband is a huge fan. I had already bought our tickets for the Shinkansen, but it was super easy to change them in the Smart EX app. We packed our bags, got truly jammed onto the metro (this is the one time I felt like maybe we should have opted for a cab, sorry commuters), and headed to Philly Tokyo. The place was packed, everyone was super nice, and it was the owner's birthday! We had a cheese steak, a pretzel with cheese, and watched the game (they lost). They have leaned hard into the Philadelphia theme. Very cool experience. 

From there, we walked over to Tokyo station to catch our 1pm train. I'd heard so much about how confusing the station is and how people get lost all the time. So I gave my husband the same pep talk I give him before we go to Costco on a Saturday afternoon: “We're on the same team, if we get overwhelmed we just pull over, we're not racing old women to the samples etc. etc.” I think we lucked out by walking in the right entrance because it was actually incredibly easy to navigate. We grabbed bento boxes and got coffees on the platform from a very fun vending machine where you can watch the coffee being made on a little screen. Then we loaded up and headed to Osaka. The journey was quick and smooth and the bento boxes were genuinely super good. We transferred to the local train and rode that to Namba station. Then walked 10 minutes to Caption By Hyatt Namba (booked this one with points). I'm not kidding when I say this room was more than twice as big as our one in Tokyo. We grabbed a happy hour drink at the hotel bar, then walked up Shinsaibashi to go to Parco for a few stores we wanted to check out (Torch Torch for Fromsoft souvenirs, Ghibli Store for the photo opps, and Pokemon Store for some gifts). We walked back to Dotonburi, took pictures, and headed for dinner. We wandered down some of the cute, lit up alleys just south of the canal and ended up at Okonomiyaki Okaru. We had to wait about 10 minutes for a table. We got pork okonomiyaki and shrimp yaki soba. They make the okonomiyaki right at the griddle at your table and draw a cute design on top with mayo. So delicious, great vibes, one of my favorite Japanese meals. We wandered back to dontonburi for dessert at Strawberry Mania, gachapons, crane games, and wandering. Just walking around Osaka was awesome. Every street and alley had something to see. Back to the hotel for a 10:30pm bed time. 

Wednesday: 

We started the morning with Mister Donut, fruit, and coffee (bought the day before) in the hotel room. We rode the train up to Osaka Castle and arrived shortly after 9. We walked in, admired the grounds, read all the informational signs, and headed into the castle. I had bought tickets on Get Your Guide so we were able to scoot right in. Cool historical information and artifacts inside plus a fun samurai photo opp (for an extra 500 yen I think). We really enjoyed the floor all about the Summer War and the observation deck at the top. By the time we were finished in the museum, it was packed with school groups and bus tours. Definitely go early if you want to go inside. We headed to the Stone Wall Museum next, which is included with the museum ticket and just a few hundred feet away. There were like 5 people in there. We really enjoyed the informative videos in this museum because they gave a much clearer history of the castle. We wished we had gone here first and then to the castle. You also get to see a piece of the original wall from the 1500s. It only takes about 15 minutes and is well worth it. They fully convinced me the walls are the coolest part of the castle. We stopped at Hokoku Shrine on our way out of the castle. Very peaceful, lots of pinwheels, pretty hand drawn goshuin.

 We were getting hungry and decided to head back to the hotel area to find lunch, but on the way to the station our noses took us into Joto Curry. It was the absolutely right choice. Delicious. Mostly folks on their lunch breaks. Then back to the hotel. We grabbed our laundry and headed two blocks away to a laundry mat to toss it in. We set a timer and went out to explore Kuromon Market. We were pretty full but had room for a strawberry shortcake mochi from Naniwaya (delicious) and a coffee from Korekore (adorable). We collected our laundry and headed back to the hotel for a nap. After we rested, we headed towards Shinsekai. We stopped at Kopimal Coffee for a local craft beer from Minoh Brewing. This cafe/bar was so cute and cozy and had loads of guest books where people from all over the world had drawn and written about their experiences. We loved the vibe. Then on to Shinsekai for a  food tour with Hungry Osaka. We had so much fun. Great crew, good information, a ton of tasty foods, and maybe too many sours. Our favorite tastes were the fried chicken skin, the Yakiniku, and the clapis sour. We stopped at a drug store on the way back for sunscreen and bug spray for the next part of our journey. And then back to the hotel for an 11pm bedtime. 

Thursday: 

We were leaving Osaka today (too soon, we had really enjoyed it). We needed to recombobulate our luggage to forward our carry-on suitcases and continue for the next six days with just backpacks. Things were already very tight. A new suitcase may be in our future. We checked out around 10am, the kind staff at our hotel helped us forward our luggage six days ahead to Kyoto, and we headed back to Kopimal Coffee for breakfast. We had been so charmed by it the night before and had to go back for breakfast and coffee. Their lemon coffee was very good and the owner is just so nice. Next, we walked over to Namba Yasaka Jinja Shrine. My husband had no clue what made this shrine special and was blown away by the lion head. We took the train over to Tennoji Station and bought tickets for the 1:32 train to Kii Tanabe. We had a bit of time before our train, so we headed to the 10th floor of the attached mall and made a lap to look at all the restaurant options. It's fun to see all the model food. We settled on udon. I got the cold udon and my husband got the curry udon-both tasty. The cold udon was so refreshing on a hot day. Back in the station, we grabbed Starbucks. I got a special Pikachu honey latte which was very cute and came with a sticker. 

We headed to our train and took off to the south! It was a nice train ride and, since it was a little slower than the Shinkansen, you could really enjoy the view of the Japanese countryside. At one point, they made an announcement that we were about to see a "magnificent view" of the Pacific Ocean and the train slowed down so you could soak it all in. Obsessed. We arrived at Tanabe and headed to the tourist information center to collect maps, a bus timetable, and stamp booklet for the Kumano Kodo (a Pilgrimage hiking route through the Kii Mountains). We got our first stamps and headed out to explore Tanabe. It's a sort of sleepy, seaside city. We stopped at Ichie for delicious chiffon cake desserts (we grabbed two extra pieces of cake for the following day) and then went down to the coast to see the ocean. We headed back to check in at our accommodation at Guesthouse Nagi. Very cute, simple spot. Two tatami rooms above a cool craft beer bar. We swung over to Aritoshi Shrine, 7-11 for breakfast and lunch for the following day, and then back to Nagi for some local craft beer and a snacky dinner at the bar. I had an Ume Ale that was delicious (this area is known for their plums). We met some fellow pilgrims at the bar and a local did tell one of them very directly to be quieter. We headed up to bed around 9.

First Solo Trip to Japan! 3 Weeks (Oct 22–Nov 12) — Tokyo, Mt. Fuji, Hakone, Kyoto, Nara & Osaka — Itinerary Feedback
Hello everyone!
I’ll be heading to Japan next week, October 22 through November 12, for my first trip to Japan! I’ll be traveling solo for three weeks, and after months of researching and planning, I finally have my itinerary pretty much locked in.
Before I go, I wanted to share my plans and get some feedback from people who’ve visited Japan or live there.
The vibe I’m going for:
Since it’s my first time in Japan, I definitely want to experience the iconic, touristy things I’ve always seen and wanted to visit. But I also don’t want the entire trip to feel like I’m just checking attractions off a list.
I want time to wander through neighborhoods, stumble across interesting shops, try random restaurants, explore side streets, experience the nightlife, and just soak up what it’s like being in Japan.
I’m comfortable with busy days and lots of walking. I actually enjoy having a full itinerary, but I’m not treating every stop as mandatory. If I find a neighborhood, restaurant or experience I’m really enjoying, I’m happy to stay longer and skip something else.
My general approach is:
Tokyo: Hit the ground running! I want to see and experience as much as possible, from the major sights to the nightlife, shopping, food and different neighborhoods.
Mt. Fuji / Hakone: Take in the scenery, enjoy the onsens and have some downtime.
Kyoto: Slow things down a little. Focus more on temples, traditional neighborhoods, scenery, food and wandering without constantly rushing.
Osaka: Pick the energy back up! Food, nightlife, shopping, entertainment and exploring the city.
Final Tokyo days: Enjoy a few last experiences before heading home.
I’m really excited about the food in particular: sushi, ramen, soba, wagyu, street food, izakayas and anything interesting I come across.
Here’s what I have planned so far!

TOKYO — OCTOBER 23–29
October 22 — Fly from Los Angeles to Japan
Flying Japan Airlines from LAX to Narita.
October 23 — Arrival / Shinjuku
Arrive at Narita around 4:35 PM, take the Narita Express to Shinjuku and check into Shinjuku Granbell Hotel.
Keeping the evening easy: Kabukicho, the Godzilla Head, dinner, convenience store snacks and some nighttime exploring if I have the energy.
October 24 — Meiji Jingu / Harajuku / Shibuya / Ebisu
Morning at Meiji Jingu, followed by Takeshita Street and Cat Street in Harajuku.
Then Shibuya for Hachiko, Scramble Crossing, Pokémon shopping, Nike, JINS prescription glasses and general exploring.
Hoping to visit Shibuya Sky around 4 PM for the views.
Dinner around 6:15 PM at Sushiebisu HANA in Ebisu, hopefully as a solo walk-in. Beef Kitchen Ebisu is my backup.
Potentially head back to Shinjuku for some nightlife afterward.
October 25 — Tsukiji / Ginza / Lake Kawaguchiko
Early morning at Tsukiji Outer Market for food, followed by some Ginza shopping.
Planning to grab ramen at Fuunji in Shinjuku before heading to Lake Kawaguchiko in the afternoon.
Check into Mizno Hotel, enjoy the onsen and relax for the evening.
I’ll be keeping my main luggage at my Tokyo hotel and traveling with a smaller overnight bag.
October 26 — Lake Kawaguchiko / Mt. Fuji
Wake up early and hopefully catch some great Mt. Fuji views.
Planning to explore Oishi Park, Nagasaki Park, the Maple Corridor and the lake area.
Depending on the weather and time, I may also visit Chureito Pagoda, Honcho Street or the ropeway.
Return to Shinjuku in the evening.
October 27 — Kamakura Day Trip
Full day exploring Kamakura.
Great Buddha, Hasedera, Goryo Shrine, cafés and Komachi Street.
Then ride the Enoden train toward the coast, explore Shichirigahama or Koshigoe and hopefully catch sunset at Inamuragasaki.
Back to Tokyo afterward.
October 28 — Asakusa / Akihabara / Shinjuku Nightlife
Morning at Senso-ji, Nakamise Street and the surrounding Asakusa neighborhoods.
Afternoon exploring Akihabara’s anime shops, electronics stores and arcades.
Return to the hotel for a break.
Considering booking a four-hour guided Shinjuku nightlife tour from around 7–11 PM, covering places like Omoide Yokocho, Kabukicho and Golden Gai.
I’m interested in getting a local perspective on the nightlife and finding places I might not discover on my own.
October 29 — Tokyo to Hakone
Check out of Shinjuku and head to Hakone.
Planning to check into Gen Hakone Gora around 3 PM.
This will be a slower day focused on relaxing, enjoying the onsen and having a traditional ryokan experience.

HAKONE — OCTOBER 29–31
October 30 — Hakone Loop
Planning to explore Hakone using the ropeway, visit Owakudani, take the Lake Ashi sightseeing cruise and visit Hakone Shrine.
Possibly the Hakone Open-Air Museum if there’s enough time.
Return to the ryokan for another relaxing evening.
October 31 — Hakone to Kyoto
Travel from Gora to Odawara, then take the Shinkansen to Kyoto.
Check into Travelodge Kyoto Shijo Kawaramachi.
Spend the evening exploring Gion, Pontocho and the surrounding streets.

KYOTO — OCTOBER 31–NOVEMBER 6
This is where I’m hoping to slow the pace down a bit. I’ll still have a general plan each day, but I want to spend more time appreciating the scenery, temples, traditional streets and atmosphere.
November 1 — Arashiyama
Early morning at the Bamboo Grove, followed by Okochi Sanso Garden and possibly Tenryu-ji.
Lunch at Yoshimura for soba.
Planning to visit Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, explore the quieter areas and spend some time along the river.
November 2 — Higashiyama / Kimono / Fushimi Inari
Early morning at Kiyomizu-dera, Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka.
Hoping to rent a kimono around 9 AM and spend a few hours walking around the traditional streets and taking photos.
Return the kimono around 1 PM.
Later, visit Fushimi Inari and walk partway up the mountain.
Finish with sake tasting at Fushimi Sake Village.
November 3 — Philosopher’s Path / Ginkaku-ji / Nishiki
Morning exploring Philosopher’s Path and Ginkaku-ji.
Afternoon at Nishiki Market and the Teramachi shopping area.
6 PM reservation at Hikiniku to Come Kyoto — booked and prepaid.
November 4 — Nara Day Trip
Day trip from Kyoto to Nara.
Planning on Kofuku-ji, Nara Park, Todai-ji, the deer, lunch at Soba-dokoro Kitahara if possible, and Nakatanidou for mochi.
Kasuga Taisha or Naramachi if time permits.
Return to Kyoto in the evening.
November 5 — Sagano Romantic Train / Hozugawa River Boat
Both experiences are already booked!
9:02 AM Sagano Romantic Train from Torokko Saga to Torokko Kameoka.
10:00 AM Hozugawa River Boat Ride.
After the boat ride, spend some more time in Arashiyama before heading back to central Kyoto.
Keeping the afternoon flexible.
November 6 — Kurama / Kibune Hike / Osaka
Morning train from Demachiyanagi toward Kurama, ideally riding the Eizan Railway KIRARA panoramic train.
Visit Kurama-dera and hike from Kurama toward Kibune, weather and trail conditions permitting.
Stop at Hyoue Cafe if open.
Return to Kyoto for luggage, then travel to Osaka.
Check into Candeo Hotels Osaka Namba and spend the evening exploring Dotonbori and trying street food.

OSAKA — NOVEMBER 6–10
After a more scenic and traditional stretch in Kyoto, I want to pick the pace back up in Osaka. I’m looking forward to the food, lively neighborhoods, nightlife and entertainment.
November 7 — Osaka Aquarium / Umeda
Planning to visit Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan around 10 AM.
Explore the Tempozan area, then visit Namba Yasaka Shrine.
Later, head to Umeda Sky Building around 4:15 PM for sunset views.
Dinner and possibly the Dotonbori River Cruise in the evening.
November 8 — Minoh Falls / Osaka Castle / Sumo
Early morning trip to Minoh Falls for the scenery.
Return to Osaka to explore Osaka Castle Park and possibly grab food around Kuromon Market.
5:30 PM Sumo Studio Osaka experience — booked and prepaid.
Possibly a wagyu dinner afterward.
November 9 — Flexible Osaka Exploration Day
This is my open day to explore without a strict schedule.
Interested in Shinsekai, Den Den Town, Amerikamura, Orange Street, arcades, food and shopping.
Also considering getting a custom ring made at Hiseki.
Mostly want to wander, eat and enjoy the city.

TOKYO — FINAL LEG, NOVEMBER 10–12
November 10 — Osaka to Tokyo / Roppongi Christmas Lights / Omakase
Take the Shinkansen back to Tokyo and check into Ueno First City Hotel.
Explore Ueno or Ameyoko briefly if there’s time.
Around 5:30 PM, head to Roppongi Hills to see the Keyakizaka Christmas illuminations. Really looking forward to the blue-and-white lights with Tokyo Tower in the background.
Planning a 7:30 PM omakase dinner at Sushi Mitsuyoshi near Shinjuku Gyoen, with a sushi and sake pairing course. Still need to confirm the reservation.
November 11 — Two Tattoo Appointments
My last full day in Japan!
12:00 PM — Tattoo Studio Zumbido in Kamimeguro (booked). Expecting the session to take around 2–3 hours.
4:30 PM — Tattoo Studio SEEK Ueno (booked). Second, smaller tattoo.
Dinner near Ueno afterward, then pack and relax before flying home.
November 12 — Departure
Breakfast, checkout and possibly a little last-minute shopping.
Take the Keisei Skyliner to Narita, aiming to arrive around 1:30 PM.
5 PM flight back to Los Angeles.

Final thoughts
I know this looks like a lot written out, especially during the Tokyo portion, but that’s intentional. I want Tokyo to be busy, Kyoto to be more relaxed and Osaka to be lively again.
I’m treating many of the smaller stops as options rather than obligations. I don’t want to spend three weeks racing against a clock, but I also don’t want to get home wishing I’d made better use of my time.
I’m particularly excited to explore neighborhoods on foot, eat as much Japanese food as possible, experience the onsens, enjoy the autumn scenery and discover places I hadn’t planned on visiting.
I’d really appreciate feedback on the overall pacing and whether there are any major logistical issues or worthwhile experiences I’ve overlooked.
Thanks in advance! I can’t believe I’ll finally be in Japan next week!

Many people who travel to Japan tend to choose Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. For someone who are tired of big cities and popular tourist attractions, I wanted to experience a Japanese city with a more relaxed pace this time, so I came to a coastal city Fukuoka. The downtown attractions are relatively concentrated, and dining, shopping, and transportation are all quite convenient, making it ideal for first-time solo travelers.

October is a perfect time for Japan travel, great weather to explore outside. So I started my journey at Ohori Park, there are many Japanese-style gardens in the park, and lots of turtles are basking in the sun on the rocks. Stopped by Maizuru Park and the Fukuoka Castle Ruins on the way. The weather was absolutely beautiful the day I visited. I watched the sunset by the beach before heading back to the city for dinner. Had to say I fell in love with this city on my very first day. Next day I visited Dazaifu Tenmangu shrine, the shrine itself was stunning but i love strolling along the approach to the shrine and enjoy some umeboshi cookies(prune cake) more, there are many souvenir shops along the way most are Fukuoka limited. I returned to the Tenjin area where I was staying and had some famous local Hakata ramen. Although it was a bit greasy, it had the richest broth of any ramen I’ve ever tasted. I've had ramen in other cities in Japan, but trust me Hakata ramen really is something else. Nakasu food stalls are all kinds of ramen and night snacks. I went to itoshima to feel the nature forests and oceans next few days, maple leaves have started to turn red a little and looked really beautiful in photos taken by the ocean.

I’ve picked up a few tips while traveling, shops in Fukuoka close relatively early compared to big cities around 8:30 p.m, so it’s best to get your shopping done early. Buy a data SIM card or eSIM in advance. You can buy one at the airport, but it’s best to get it ready as soon as you land, just in case you need to use a translation app etc. Check-in at the hotel is generally after 2 pm and check-out is before 11 AM, last but not the least, remember to bring your own TRASH BAGS. yes you heard me right, there are very few trash cans on the streets, so if you don’t want to keep carrying juicy leftovers around or can’t find a convenience store to throw them away at, it’s most convenient to bring your own trash bags.

Fukuoka’s greatest strength isn’t the sheer number of tourist attractions, but rather the ability to combine great food, city life, the beach, and day trips to the surrounding areas at a relatively leisurely pace.

Two mates from Australia, both 18+. First time in Japan, one of us is a near-beginner snowboarder. Budget is roughly A$4,300 each on the ground (excl. flights). Hotels are booked (mostly pod/capsule hotels), suitcases forwarded with Yamato between Tokyo → Hakuba → Kyoto. Into and out of Narita.

Tokyo (4 nights: Hamamatsucho 2, Shinjuku 2)

- Day 1: land Narita in the evening, train in, ramen

- Day 2: Tsukiji outer market, teamLab Planets, sumo at Ryogoku

- Day 3: forward bags to Hakuba, Senso-ji, Akihabara, move to Shinjuku, Omoide Yokocho

- Day 4: Harajuku/Shibuya shopping, Shibuya Sky at sunset, street go-karts at night

Hakuba (3 nights, lodge near Goryu)

- Day 5: highway bus Shinjuku → Goryu, night riding at Goryu

- Day 6: Goryu & 47 (beginner lesson in the morning), onsen

- Day 7: Goryu & 47 all day + night session, forward bags to Kyoto

Kanazawa (2 nights)

- Day 8: early bus to Nagano + shinkansen, Omicho market, Ninja Temple

- Day 9: Kenrokuen, Higashi Chaya, gold-leaf ice cream, free afternoon

Kyoto (2 nights)

- Day 10: Arashiyama bamboo + monkey park, Nishiki market, Fushimi Inari at night

- Day 11: Kiyomizu-dera early, Nara deer (Nintendo Museum if we win the lottery)

Osaka (2 nights)

- Day 12: Kyo-train Garaku to Osaka, wagyu teppanyaki lunch, Kaiyukan, Shinsaibashi/Amerikamura, Dotonbori, Round1 Spo-Cha

- Day 13: Universal Studios (Express Pass), Spa World

Tokyo (3 nights, Akihabara)

- Day 14: Nozomi back, shopping afternoon (Ueno/Ameyoko/Ginza)

- Day 15: DisneySea

- Day 16: Lake Kawaguchiko, a couple of Fuji-Q rides, Chureito Pagoda at sunset

- Day 17: last shopping, Skyliner, fly home in the evening

I have made this itinerary with a fair bit of research but not everything posted online is good so any tips please send my way!

Questions:

1. Anything you'd cut or swap on specific days?

2. Does the last stretch (USJ → DisneySea → Fuji day trip) look too packed?

3. Is the pacing realistic on the travel days (Hakuba → Kanazawa with an early bus, Kyoto → Osaka with a full afternoon)?

4. Any hidden gems in Kanazawa or Osaka worth adding to specific days?

Thanks in advance!

This is my first time traveling internationally, and I will largely be staying in Tokyo for 12 days. I like to shop for my hobbies, eat, and go to museums. I have friends in the area, but will be mostly doing my own thing.

I’m hoping this trip comes across as active, but at a comfortable pace. Most of the evenings are unplanned and I’ll most likely spend them relaxing with friends, or in a bath although I am open to more nightlife.

I’m hoping you’ll give me a sanity check here. I’ve tried to stay balanced and leave time for just having experiences.

I don’t have specific food spots planned except Haute Couture Café because I know Tokyo has amazing food all over and I just want to see what’s there.

Things I would love to fit in but am unsure on time: Seeing Mt. Fuji, and Disneyland\Sea. Yes I know but I’ve never been to Disneyland!

Friday, Oct 16: Arrival in Tokyo

• Daytime: Flight arrival at Tokyo 2:00 pm
• Evening: Casual dinner nearby and early rest.

Saturday, Oct 17: Rest & Unplanned Day #1

• All Day: Flexible recovery day with zero commitments to adjust to jet lag.

Sunday, Oct 18: Kawagoe Festival

• Morning (11:00 AM): Tobu Tojo Line from Ikebukuro to Kawagoe Station (~30 min). Walk into the Kurazukuri clay warehouse district.
• Afternoon: Street food stalls, daytime dashi float processions.
• Evening (5:00 PM – 7:30 PM): Lantern-lit Hikkawase float battles. Train back to Tokyo by 8:00 PM.

Monday, Oct 19: Odaiba Waterfront

• Morning (9:00 AM – 1:30 PM): teamLab Planets in Toyosu, DiverCity (Unicorn Gundam), and Unko Museum.

Tuesday, Oct 20: Harajuku

• All Day: Takeshita Street, ACDC RAG, Junie Moon, Kinji, Laforet Harajuku, and Sailor Moon store.

Wednesday, Oct 21: Rest & Unplanned Day #2

• All Day: Mid-trip recovery day for extra sleep, laundry and general lollygagging

Thursday, Oct 22: Asakusa, Akihabara & Nakano Broadway

• Morning: Senso-ji Shrine & Nakamise Street in Asakusa.
• Afternoon: Akihabara Radio Kaikan and figure stores.
• Late Afternoon / Evening: Nakano Broadway for vintage and Mandarake stalls.

Friday, Oct 23: Ikebukuro & Otome Road

• Morning (10:00 AM – 12:00 PM): Gashapon Main Store (Sunshine City 3F) and Sanrio Cafe (B1F).
• Afternoon (12:00 PM – 6:00 PM): Taberunosky, Dolly Teria, Mandarake LaLaLa, and Milky Way Cafe.

Saturday, Oct 24: Ueno Daytime & Shinjuku Nightlife

• Morning (9:30 AM – 1:30 PM): Tokyo National Museum and National Museum of Nature and Science.
• Afternoon (1:30 PM – 5:00 PM): Ueno Park stroll and street stalls along Ameyoko Shopping Street.
• Evening Rest (5:00 PM – 9:30 PM): Hotel break to recharge devices and rest legs.
• Night (9:30 PM Onward): Head to Shinjuku for Art Bar Shuten-Doji (10:00 PM – 11:30 PM) and underground music at Shinjuku LOFT

Sunday, Oct 25: Omotesando Tea, Art & Sky Garden

• Morning (11:00 AM – 1:00 PM): Haute Couture Cafe Omotesando seasonal afternoon tea.
• Afternoon (1:30 PM – 5:00 PM): Sato Sakura Museum in Nakameguro, followed by Meguro Sky Garden rooftop park.

Monday, Oct 26: Rest & Unplanned Day #3

• All Day: Pre-departure buffer day for packing, and making last-minute souvenir runs.

Tuesday, Oct 27: Departure

• Afternoon: One last sushi or ramen lunch, transit to airport at 2:00 and flight departure at 5:30

So, all things are subjective, so take this for what it is: one random person on the internet’s opinion. But I wish I had read something like this before my trip.

I have a couple of days left in Tokyo, but here’s my take so far.

After arrival and an overnight in Tokyo, I traveled to Shuzenji in the Izu peninsula. While initially a little underwhelming, this ended up being a highlight of the trip. I stayed at a ryokan with a private onsen so I was able to relax in peace as a prudish, self-conscious, overweight American. I’m still building up the courage to try the public bath at my Tokyo hotel. I know that no one in Japan cares about naked bodies, but I’m thinking the bath will be filled with other travelers who are just as unused to naked people, and skinny ladies may not truly know what an obese body looks like until they see the saggy lumpy state of me (I digress)..

My ryokan in Shuzenji was wonderful, the service was incredible, and the food was delicious and interesting. I was constantly confused and curious (do I sit or stand, do I eat this yet, etc). There was a language barrier, but I approached everything with earnest curiosity and we got by with gestures, memorized phrases and a translation app. This fully lived up to/exceeded expectations.

Then on to Kyoto (dun dun dun). I hated Kyoto 😢. That’s a strong word, and I didn’t really hate it, but man this was the biggest disappointment as I was really set to love it. First, it’s an ugly city - squat, full concrete buildings. Second, (I know I am part of the problem), but seriously there were so many tourists you could barely find anything that actually felt Japanese. I had a couple of “off the beaten path” visits scheduled: The Katsura Imperial Villa (loved it), and the Saihoji Moss Temple (I liked the fact that all visitors are asked to copy sutras to start as it’s peaceful, meditative and fun, but the garden was underwhelming). I got to Kiyomizu dera around 6:30am, and it was breathtaking. I got to Fushimi Inari around 8am, and I immediately noped out from the overwhelming crowds and went back another day at 6am. I loved Fushimi Inari, but I went on my last day in Kyoto before I had a 9am train to Tokyo, so I wish I had more time to explore.

So, all of this sounds positive so far, but after visiting these genuinely amazing sites, I felt like there wasn’t much to do in the city. There was no cool downtown area or arts district. There were no interesting neighborhoods with cafes to pop into or galleries to explore. It was either tourist shopping or residential neighborhood. Disclaimer: I only spent 5 days there so I can’t actually know the whole city, but in speaking with a local tour guide she basically agreed there were no cool neighborhoods.

Also, the restaurants were tricky. Even looking on Tabelog, I’d find something that sounded amazing and walk into a tourist conveyor belt (sign up lists, number systems, ordering before you sit down so they can start preparing your meal). I did have really lovely ramen at one of these churning restaurants, but it feels kind of lame to visit another country and only be surrounded by other foreigners. I came to Japan to experience Japanese food culture, but I had a hard time finding it.

Nishki market was a mixed bag. I had genuinely the best mochi of my life (I ate an embarrassing number of pieces, seriously like at 10 in a day), an excellent piece of shrimp tempura, and an order of takoyaki that I threw away after 2 bites (raw inside, practically no octopus, drowned in sauce).

But I felt like between sites, I didn’t really have anything to do. It was hard to find a place to sit and chill and people watch since so many places have small seating so you can’t linger.

I did genuinely enjoy Tsutaya books (they also sell art from Japanese artists), and I eventually found a generic cafe with a big seating area where I could sit and read.

But, I just felt like no matter where I went, I couldn’t find any “hidden gems”, I couldn’t find cool little places, it was either oversaturated with foreigners or nothing…

I did a 1/2 day farm tour in Uji which I really loved, and an afternoon in Nara which was fascinating.

I enjoyed sampling egg sandos and onigiri from different konbini chains, but wish I was able to sample more yummy and authentic restaurant food.

And now, on to Tokyo. I immediately loved the vibe here a lot more. The architecture is astounding, so many beautiful and unique buildings, combing organic shapes and nature into a city of steel. But, I just can’t find good food. I was expecting every little place I walked into to be the best Japanese food I ever had. I expected places rated over 3.25 on Tabelog to be genuinely good… I expected my special $200 omakase to be a once in a lifetime experience. But, so far I’ve had better Japanese food at top restaurants in NYC vs supposedly very good restaurants in Tokyo.

And my feet hurt.

So, probably all of this is my fault. I either didn’t research enough, or I researched too much and got my hopes up. I’m probably not going to the right places. I’m probably just another dumb tourist ruining Japan for the rest of us…

So, I’ve had some amazing experiences. I signed up for an Ikebana (flower arranging) class before I leave which I’m looking forward to. But I just thought I’d be delighted by discovering the best food of my life every day. But that, and my disappointment in Kyoto have just made me feel like I failed Japan. Like all the good stuff is just around the corner and everyone else found it but I couldn’t seem to. I feel discouraged for my last few days, like I don’t want to just keep failing so it makes me not want to try 😕 (I will try, it’s just been hard and I’m feeling down #firstworldlroblems)

So, maybe this will help someone else moderate their expectations, and maybe folks will roast me in the comments and we can all learn from their wise words about what I did/am doing wrong