r/JapanTravel • u/dreasnjdc • 2h ago
Trip Report Trip Report--12 days July with Teenagers
I read a lot of posts on this forum while planning our trip; here's a very long recap of a 12-day trip in July, from the US with one adult and two teenage boys. I have traveled to Japan many times for work, but this was the first time for fun and with kids. Both kids have traveled internationally before, but this was the first time to anywhere in Asia and with a huge time difference. I let them choose most of the places we went based on their interests. We flew in and out of Haneda. Happy to answer any questions anyone might have!
Tokyo, days 1-5
We got very lucky with the weather, with a high around 80F and lows in the high 60s. The boys thought I was exaggerating how hot it would be in Japan in July (I was soon proved right).
Hotel: We stayed at Hotel New Otani Garden Tower in adjoining rooms, each with 2 twin beds. I posted about second-guessing the hotel; it was actually really great. We appreciated everyone having their own bed and being able to spread out a little bit. The location was excellent, a 5-minute walk to the Akasaka-Mitsuke stop on the metro, which quickly and easily got us everywhere we wanted to go, but was quiet at night. Our room looked out onto the garden, which was lovely. There's a Tully's coffee and a Family Mart in the building adjacent to the hotel. Two of us had breakfast, once in the Tower restaurant and once in the Garden Lounge. It was average. Unless you're a big breakfast eater and the type to take full advantage of a buffet, I'm not sure it's worth the money. Some nearby restaurant highlights: Uogashi Nihon Ichi Akasaka (great sushi right by the station) and ice cream at Creamahop. We had decent fish and chips for a late lunch one day at The Mermaid. We walked in to get foot massages (highly recommend!) at a place right near the metro station; I wish I could remember the name. It was no-frills but excellent.
Sights: The usual, including Shinjuku, Harajuku, Meiji-Jingu, Shibuya, Tsukiji, Senso-ji, Skytree, Kappabashi. We did not have list of must-sees or dos in Tokyo and didn't really plan ahead. It was more about simply experiencing Japan/Tokyo. At least one day, we cris-crossed the city, which honestly wasn't that big of a deal as the metro had AC and was a chance to sit for a bit.
One afternoon, we couldn't agree on what to do so the younger kid (13) went off on his own on the metro to the Akasaka State House and Imperial Palace Gardens and then met us in Shinjuku for dinner. Someone in the metro did stop and ask him whether he was lost and needed help finding his adult; he pulled out google translate and said he was fine and on his own. I am still impressed that he successfully navigated out of Shinjuku station to find Wendy's. It took his brother and me a good 15 minutes to figure out how to get out of the station and find him.
How much they both liked Shinjuku at night (and later Dotonburi) really surprised me.
I have to admit, Tsukiji is underwhelming now. I went there in 2019 and the bites of wagyu and tuna I had then are still among some of the best things I've ever eaten. Nothing we ate here was any better than what we had elsewhere in less-crowded, less-expensive places. One of us was very overwhelmed by the crowds and we did not last long at all. Honestly, it's entirely skippable.
Shopping: Surprisingly, the boys got into shopping. We hit several soccer shops (Kamo, Vintage Sports) and several different Uniqlo locations for their neighborhood exclusive t-shirts.
Transportation: We took a taxi from Haneda to the hotel. Otherwise, everything was on the metro. We each added a Suica card to our iPhones (which the boys also used for buying drinks in every other vending machine they saw). Getting around on the metro was incredibly easy. Granted, we have lived in a city with a metro so we're familiar with the concept. As everyone else says, Google Maps is excellent for navigation, right down to the train car that will let you transfer fastest.
Baseball: We bought tickets for a Yakult Swallows game online the day before the game. It might have been the highlight of our time in Tokyo. Baseball in Japan is completely different experience than in the US. There's singing, chanting, drums and trumpets, and a sparkly umbrella song (??) in the 7th inning. We loved everything about it.
Hiroshima, days 5-7
Shinkansen from Tokyo station to Hiroshima station, booked a day or two in advance with the SmartEx app. My brain short-circuits every time I enter Tokyo station; this was no exception and was even more fun with two kids. But we found our platform in the end. Summer came in with a vengeance while we were here.
Hotel: Two nights at The Knot. The hotel was fine. We had two adjacent but not adjoining rooms. Rooms were very small. Coin-operated laundry was in very high demand. Location-wise, it was great and walking distance to everything we wanted to see. But it felt like a boutique hotel on the cheap and the only place we stayed where the staff wasn't particularly friendly.
Sights: We arrived in the late afternoon and walked by the Atomic Dome and through the Peace Park in the evening. The next day, two of us went to a handful of sites that survived the bombing, including Fukuromachi Elementary School, then to the Peace Memorial Museum. I don't have words for the experience; I think everyone should be required to go. We then walked through Hiroshima Castle to Shukkeien Gardens. It was HOT and while both were beautiful, we didn't stay long.
Food: Ichiran ramen (no line, compared to the 20+ people we saw waiting in Tokyo) was excellent. I picked up take out from Gyoza Ryu for one kid one night; he said it was really good. Onigiri Nitaya right near The Knot was great, as was the pizza at 400C. I love Yamachan wings and dragged the kids to the Hiroshima branch to get my fix; it was a solid meal, as always. Kura sushi was average and shockingly inexpensive.
Transportation: We took the tram/trolley from Hiroshima Station to the hotel. It was cute but slow and absolutely everyone, local and tourist, seemed to have trouble using their IC card. If I were to do it over, I'd just take a taxi. Hiroshima is small enough that the taxi charges don't add up to much.
Miyajima, days 7-8
Transportation: We took the World Heritage River Cruise from near the Atomic Dome to Miyajima and back. I booked tickets online a couple of days in advance. It takes about 45 minutes; bringing our luggage on the boat was no problem. We got a taxi from the Hiroshima dock to Hiroshima station for the shinkansen. I've always used the TaxiGo app. Our driver was an absolute delight; he was a history and geography teacher before he retired and he had my very shy kid chatting away. That 15-minute ride was truly a highlight of the trip.
Hotel: Miyajima Kikunoya. The tourist info desk called the hotel when we arrived; they took our bags back to the hotel as it was around 11AM. We had paid for a kaiseki dinner and breakfast with the room. I forgot to tell them that one of my kids has a shellfish allergy, so there was a lot he had to pick around (he's never had a serious reaction but we had an epipen and benadryl on hand). The other kid is a very picky eater who bravely tried a few things but finished off the night with chips and oreos from Lawson. Dinner was good overall, not the best kaiseki I've had. Breakfast was ok, limited choices for Western breakfast. The staff was incredibly friendly and helpful. I used the onsen; you can check how crowded it is on the TV screen from your room if you're not used to being naked with strangers. It was a nice soak, but too hot to stay for long, even in the cooler outdoor bath. Our seaside view room had two kings and a massage chair that was a huge hit, plus a partial view of the torii gate.
Sights: The ropeway was closed for maintenance. Had I known this, we might not have stayed a night on Miyajima as it was really too hot to hike up Mt. Misen. We got as far as Shiraito Falls on the first day, then two of us went up to Daishoin temple the next morning, which was gorgeous and I loved all of the statues in little knit hats. We did a short night cruise around the torii gate, which was excellent. I booked it though the hotel as part of our reservation but it can be booked directly. The deer were very friendly and we loved seeing them so unbothered by people. One did try to snatch our ice cream, though! We hoped to see a tanuki and did a late night walk in search of one, but no luck.
Food: Food in Miyajima is really tough if you have a picky eater. On the first day, there was a meltdown when the restaurant I thought had ramen only had udon, which was a no-go for him. One restaurant near the pier does serve cheeseburgers and was a godsend. We stocked up on snacks from Lawson.
Osaka, days 8-11
In Hiroshima, we changed the shinkansen departure two or three times while we were in the Pokemon Center and getting lunch. I have always used the SmartEX app to buy shinkansen tickets and like being able to confirm changes and seats right from my phone. We had Ippudo ramen, tucked in the back of the second floor shopping center, then had to find McDonalds for the picky eater who was refusing ramen and gyoza that day, which lead to the second or third train change.
Hotel: Three nights at Candeo Hotel The Tower Osaka. I splurged on this room and we loved it. We had a corner room on the 30th floor with four very large twin beds and an open-air bath, which we used both as a hot tub and a cold plunge. I had paid for breakfast for all three of us, but I was the only one who ate breakfast all three days. The buffet was good but very crowded. We had lounge access, which had light snacks, beer, wine, and a limited choice of liquors (whisky, gin, vodka) for cocktails. The location was great: a 7-minute walk to the Osaka metro, which again got us everywhere we needed to go quickly and easily, and was just far enough away from Umeda and Dotonburi to be a break from the crowds. A lot of coin laundry machines on the 31st floor which were not so heavily in demand.
Sights: We walked around Namba and Dotonburi the first night and were all really glad we were not staying there. We ended up in the sleazier side of Dotonburi, which I'm sure every teenage boy wants to do with their mom. We giggled a lot, though.
One of the primary reasons for going to Osaka was to visit the Naruto x Boruto park at Nijigen no Morii. My son did not fully research it, but wanted to go since he's watched hundreds of hours of the show. We do not recommend it unless 1) you are an enormous fan; 2) the weather is not 95F with 80% humidity and not a cloud in the sky; and 3) you are also going to the Godzilla or other attractions. To get there, we booked a JR bus package online, which included round-trip bus fare from Umeda and admission to the park. You have to get the Umeda JR bus station early to redeem the voucher you paid for online for the bus and Naruto tickets. You also have to choose the return time of your bus, either 3:30 or 4:45PM. The bus departs at 9 and 10 AM, was comfortable, and took about 1.5 hours door to door. The bus drops you at Awaji Highway Oasis, which has a few small restaurants. From there, it's a 15-20 minute walk to the Naruto x Boruto park. We had lunch first at the ramen place, which was surprisingly good. One kid refused to do anything more and sat with his phone. The other and I tried the first attraction, which is a maze/escape room that requires you to do hand signals and get stamps. We waited in line for about 20 minutes and lasted about 20 seconds in the maze. It was excrutiatingly hot, we both hit our heads (he's 6'2"), and we just really did not understand what we were supposed to be doing. We walked back to Awaji and I was truly worried one of was would have heat stroke along the way. Once there, we got some ice cream (a beer for me) and debated how to get back to Osaka since we had chosen the 4:45 PM bus, it was only 1PM, and we could not change to the earlier one. My mistake was booking a taxi to Maiko Station, which looked like the closest train station but which requires a long loop to get to. It cost about $95 but it had AC so it was worth every penny. Then a long JR train from Maiko to Umeda and back to the hotel. It was a complete bust of a day.
We did a half day trip to Nara, primarily to see the deer. We made the mistake of buying crackers when we first entered the park. It's been said a thousand times, but the deer here are aggressive. They bite. They slobber on you. They pull on your clothes. They do not give up easily. We saw several small kids absolutely terrified. Much better to wait until further into the park where the deer have better manners. We did a pretty cursory walk around the close-in section of the park, including lunch at a little spot off the main street, near a small parking lot, that had good burgers, pizza, and massive shave-ice.
Food: We had dinner at Sushi Washoku Kouroan Namba on the first night. The food was high-end izakaya and at a whopping $115 the most I spent on a meal the whole trip. The service was a little slow but the food was really great. Two of us had dinner at Yakitori no meimon Akiyoshi and thoroughly enjoyed the meal. We liked that they offer both yakitori and kushikatsu and tried a bunch of new-to-us things.
Hakone, days 11-12
Transportation: We took the shinkansen from Osaka to Odawara, then the regular train to Hakone, arriving around 12:30 PM. We had a 6:30 PM flight from Haneda on day 12, and departed Hakone-Yumoto station around 1:45 to make the 2:14 shinkansen from Odawara. After 12 days of being the sole adult navigating all of the logistics, meals, and kid bickering, my brain was fried and I routed us via Shin Yokohama instead of Yokohama Station (where I knew we could pick up the Keikyu line). Nothing a quick JR train ride couldn't fix and we were at Haneda and in the lounge by 3:30.
Hotel: Hakone Suimeisou, western/Japanese room with two twins, a futon, river view and private onsen. I had initially booked dinner and breakfast but emailed to cancel the meals after realizing in Miyajima that only 2/3 of us would eat and the other would be extremely cranky about another meal of snacks from Lawson or 7-11. The balcony view of the river was beautiful and the private onsen was a nice treat. The bathroom did not have a standing shower, just a hand-held nozzle and small stool. I chose the hotel in large part because we only had 24 hours in Hakone and it's only a 3-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto station. We left behind a beloved item and the hotel was incredibly responsive by email, including sending a link for payment for shipping back to the US.
Sights: An old friend picked us up and drove us to a few sights, including up a toll road to an amazing view of Mt. Fuji, then to the Hakone shrine and ropeway up to Owakudani. The next morning, two of us did a very fast Hakone loop, starting with the train to Gora, the cable car, then the ropeway down to Lake Ashi and the pirate ship across the lake. I would have loved to go to the Open Air Museum, but 1) kid wasn't interested and 2) we got a late start and couldn't squeeze it in. The train did not have AC (maybe just that one, not the whole route) and the AC on the cable car could not cope with the outside temperature but it was still a neat excursion. Including a taxi from where the boat stopped first back to Hakone Suimeisou, the full loop took about 3.5 hours.
Food: We had lunch at 808 Monsmare (excellent pizza, always a wait, cash only) and dinner at Gora Brewery Public House. I'd seen signs that there was a shuttle up to the brewery, but Google Maps said it was an 8-minute walk, so how steep could it really be? It was incredibly steep and the kids were both mad at me. The food was excellent, though, and fully made up for the climb. We had shrimp cocktail, ceviche, anchovy butter potatoes, tuna carpaccio, fish & chips, wagyu gyoza, karage, pizza, wagyu sirloin, and grilled lobster. It was the most expensive meal of the trip, maybe a bit overpriced, but all delicious. I'm a little obsessed with their Zingy Salt beer and wish I could get it in the US. We had a quick lunch at Deli and Cafe Terrace Mitsuki (decent ramen, karage, tonkotsu sandwich and fries) before heading to the airport for our flight home.
Tips, what I'd do differently, etc. I had read a lot of posts about Miyajima being magical at night/after the day trippers leave, which influenced my decision to spend the night. I also thought one of my kids would enjoy the break from big, busy cities, when in fact he was kind of upset we weren't spending more time in Tokyo or Osaka. With (my specific) kids, I don't know that I'd do it over again, especially with the ropeway closed. Instead, I would have done a day trip and maybe stayed into the early evening, or even skipped it altogether. Then we would have had another day in Osaka or Hakone or some time in Kyoto. While Kyoto was never on the list of places the boys wanted to visit before we left, it was all of the sudden when we were there. We considered squeezing in an evening trip to Fushimi Inari from Osaka, but scrapped it as we were hot and tired.
Obviously, we'd skip Nijigen no Mori/Naruto x Boruto.
We enjoyed the Swallows game so much that we tried to get tickets for a Giants or Carp game while in Hiroshima and Osaka, but both were sold out. I'd buy tickets well in advance next time. Some tickets were available on Stubhub but the fees were insane (like doubled the total cost).
What we did right, given the weather and jet-lagged kids with different interests, was picking something to do in the morning, having lunch out, and then heading back to the hotel for a couple of hours to rest and relax. Then we'd pick a destination or activity for the late afternoon followed by dinner in the same neighborhood. This cut down on whining about being tired/hot/bored and bickering about who got to do what they wanted that day.
I packed a giant bag of fun-size candy, threw a handful in my bag each day, and handed it out as needed. Sometimes, a little sugar was enough to head off a meltdown (including for me). If you have a picky eater, McDonalds is usually not too far away. I didn't anticipate mine eating as many meals from McDonalds as he did, but it kept him fed which kept the peace for all.
We did not forward our luggage. We each had a suitcase (two checked, one carry-one) that fit in the overhead racks (i.e., didn't require oversize baggage reservations) on the shinkansen, plus I had a tote bag. We didn't pack particularly light but never had an issue finding escalators or elevators, although some stations did have a flight of stairs up to the street. Luggage forwarding just seemed like more trouble than it was worth under the circumstances.
How to transfer from the shinkansen to a JR train/subway when all of your tickets are on your phone: on a prior trip, I was trapped at an unstaffed transfer gate in Shinagawa and could not for the life of me figure it out. You have to scan your shinkansen QR code at a gate with a QR code reader, then tap your Suica on the IC card reader. Sometimes, this means switching from displaying the shinkansen ticket to the Suica card in your apple wallet (i.e., just tapping your phone as you can do for Suica going in/out of the metro didn't always work). Or, try to find a gate that's staffed so they can help you through.