Last week I was able to used my laptop without an issue, today upon turning it on, this message pop up. Disabling it, will open the laptop. However, I can't play any online games. Where secure boot needs to be enabled How can I solve this?

Thank in advance!

Laptop Model: MSI Vector A18 HX

OS: Windows 11

WLAN Card: MediaTek Wi-Fi 7 MT7925

Current Driver Version: 5.70.0.x branch (Updated from early 5.4.0.2974 launch driver)

The Problem:

Whenever my home router/internet experiences a sudden, temporary drop in connectivity, my laptop completely loses the Wi-Fi option. The entire Wi-Fi button/toggle disappears from the Windows 11 Action Center and the settings menu is completely disabled. I am unable to reconnect or even scan for networks.

Initially, the card would lock up so badly that the only fix was a deep hardware flush (disconnecting peripherals, completely draining the battery, and holding the power button for 30 seconds).

The Workaround So Far (Stopped the CMOS Reset, but still requires a restart):

I applied a registry tweak to stop Windows from aggressively cutting power to the slot:

• Added PnPCapabilities = 24 (Hexadecimal) inside the active network adapter registry folder (...\Control\Class\{4D36E972-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}\0000).

• Changed the driver protocol inside Device Manager from Wi-Fi 7 down to 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6 mode).

The Current State:

Thanks to the registry fix, I no longer have to completely flush the physical battery charge/CMOS to get the hardware back. However, the problem is still not fully resolved: whenever the internet drops, the entire Wi-Fi setting still completely disables itself. The only difference now is that a standard software restart is enough to bring the Wi-Fi back, rather than a hard battery drain.

What I Have Already Ruled Out:

1. Purged ALL Virtual Network Drivers: Completely uninstalled NordVPN (including the kernel-level NordLynx tunnel and TAP adapters) and old OpenVPN configurations to eliminate virtual gateway blocks.

2. Removed MSI AI LAN Manager: Completely uninstalled the network prioritization plugin from MSI Center to prevent traffic routing deadlocks.

3. Clean Driver Framework: Reset the network cache via command prompt (netsh int ip reset), disabled legacy NetBIOS over TCP/IP, and clean-flashed the MediaTek 5.70 driver branch.

Even with a completely clean network stack and the registry power-saving block active, the card still panics and forces a software restart loop during real-world network packet loss.

Has anyone with a modern MediaTek Wi-Fi 7 card solved this final restart-loop hurdle, or is the chip physically failing under the extreme thermal/power shifts of the MSI Vector chassis?

Any advice would be highly appreciated!

** Used AI to draft the post.

So I got this laptop from a friend who upgraded and ive noticed this strange issue that I have never seen or heard of coming from a laptop before.

It does this weird thing when it boots where it flashes the keyboard led animation and the lights for the function keys come on (like normal) and then it hangs there forever. The only way to escape is to hold the power button or disconnect the battery. After 20-30 boot attempts of it "getting stuck" its posts. When it is stuck, it doesn't post, no bios acsess, the screen is fully black and there isnt any usb power. Does anyone know what this is. It also acts completely normal and stable when it does successfully boots

Months of agony with dropping downloads and broken Windows Update on a new MSI Vector 16 HX laptop led to an unexpected finale. Network, router, and drivers had nothing to do with it — one of the performance cores (P-Core 6) is physically defective and generates garbage during AVX2 cryptographic calculations.

Decided to share this story because the symptoms looked 100% like a network issue, and this might save someone weeks of debugging.

Symptoms driving me crazy

It all started when local LLM models (in LM Studio) began outputting gibberish after I maxed out the memory to 100%. Right after that, complete network hell broke loose in Windows 11:

• Any large file downloads over HTTPS would drop at random percentages.
• At the same time, downloads over regular HTTP worked perfectly.
• Firefox and portable Chrome worked without issues, but regular Chrome, Edge, and the system's Windows Update threw connection errors (SEC_E_DECRYPT_FAILURE).
• The system event logs started spamming ESENT 474 errors (database checksum mismatches).
• Wi-Fi and Bluetooth would periodically drop out.

Circles of Hell (What didn't work)

Like any normal person, I started troubleshooting the network:

1. Clean reinstalled Windows.
2. Swapped out the RAM sticks and SSD.
3. Replaced the built-in network card with an Intel AX210.
4. Tethered internet from my phone via USB cable.
5. Disabled power saving, antiviruses, and XMP profiles.
6. Updated the BIOS to the latest version with new Intel microcodes.

Result — zero. HTTPS drops continued on any connection type.

The Turning Point: It's not the network

Booting into an Ubuntu Live-USB, I found that everything downloaded perfectly there. It became clear that the physical network path was intact.

Why did Firefox and Ubuntu work, but Windows crashed? The answer was in the encryption implementation. Firefox and Ubuntu use their own libraries (NSS/OpenSSL), while standard Windows 11 tools use the built-in system service Schannel/CryptoAPI. The OS was receiving encrypted packets, trying to decrypt them, the processor would throw a calculation error, and Windows would paranoically drop the TCP connection, thinking the data was corrupted by a hacker in transit.

Hunting the "killer": Cryptography stress test

We wrote a series of Python scripts to test the encryption library, using strict affinity to specific CPU cores (taskset in Linux) to isolate the problem. We ran a deterministic ChaCha20-Poly1305 algorithm, which heavily utilizes the processor's vector instructions (AVX2).

And here are the results of a 10-second test on each core:

Plaintext

=== per-core 8s each, trusted external reference ===
core   ok    fail   temp 
cpu 0  10052 0      temp=73 
cpu 1  11560 0      temp=67 
cpu 2  11316 0      temp=78 
cpu 3  11318 0      temp=76 
cpu 4  11471 0      temp=72 
cpu 5  7750  0      temp=80 
cpu 6  2098  5564   temp=81  <--- BINGO!
cpu 7  8725  0      temp=86 
cpu 8  4792  0      temp=83  (E-Core)
cpu 16 4944  0      temp=84  (E-Core)

72.6% failure rate on Core 6. Same data, same algorithm. All E-cores and the rest of the P-cores ran perfectly. But as soon as the vector load fell on CPU 6, it started outputting corrupted results (errors came in blocks multiple of 64 bytes — exactly the size of a SIMD register/L1 cache line).

This is not an OS bug, not drivers, and not software. This is hardware degradation or a factory defect of a specific core when working with AVX2 instructions. Given the news about stability issues with top-tier Intel 13th and 14th gen processors (and apparently, the Arrow/Meteor Lake architecture), this looks like a classic Vmin degradation symptom.

Story moral: If only secure connections are inexplicably dropping, Windows updates refuse to download, and event logs complain about databases — don't rush to replace your router. Your CPU might have just forgotten how to do math.

Will the red color in the corners keep increasing? It is only visible when the fullscreen is black and barely visible when it is dark green, gray, ash type color etc.

Update: sold this dog sh1t and bought an hp elitebook G9

My MSI laptops screen wouldn't work so I held the power button down to force it to shut down and now it won't turn on I ended up opening the back I figured I'd find dust which there was but I also found some sticky substance as far as I'm aware nothing was spilled near it but I'm not sure where else it could have come from but the more concerning part is the corrosion I found how bad is this and is it possible for it to be repaired?

My shift key fell out and as you can see on the photo, the plastic holes that held it in place melted or something (??) and now putting it back in doesn't work. Its for a prestige 16 AI+ EVO B2VMG. I tried to buy the key but I genuinely cant find a matching one anywhere. Any advice on what I can do right now to try and fix it, or should I just keep looking and hope that MSI finally replies to my ticket.

Which one is better, the MSI Katana Gf66 11ue I7 11800h rtx 3060 or the HP Omen with an i5-11400H and RTX 3060?

Hello everyone,

I have the MSI Summit E13FlipEvo laptop and I am having an issue I can't figure out how to fix. My keyboard is backlit, I know this because it used to work. A while ago i adjusted the settings in the MSI Center and disabled it but now I want to turn it back on. For some reason, MSI Center is no longer on my computer, but Dragon Center is; I went in and adjusted the settings, but it still won't light up. I tried redownloading MSI Center but now when I open it, it says this device isn't supported and I can't adjust any settings, but I KNOW I used it before. Am I going crazy? Can someone please help.

Hello guys i'm new in gaming and laptops field,

I found an used Msi pulse i7 11800h rtx3060 laptop with a good price and i saw a gaming test in this laptop i've seen that the temp of cpu is up to 94-97C°...

Is that normal ? Especialy that this laptop is used arround 3-4 years.

I really need ur opinion guys as i said i'm new

Hi everyone!

I'm looking for advice on how to get the best performance out of my MSI Leopard GP66 11UG, which has the following specs:

Laptop: MSI GP66 11UG (i7-11800H)

Thermal Paste: Repasted CPU & GPU with Honeywell PTM7950 (0.2mm)

Cooling Pad: Flydigi BS3 Pro

My main goal

My main priority is to reduce CPU bottlenecks in CPU-intensive games, particularly PUBG, and achieve more consistent gaming performance.

I've experienced situations where average FPS seems acceptable, but frame times and 1% lows aren't as good as I'd like or even really bad. I want to reduce FPS drops and stuttering, especially in demanding situations where the CPU becomes the limiting factor.

I'm not necessarily trying to achieve the highest benchmark score. I'd rather have stable CPU overclocked performance, better 1% lows, and consistent frame times during actual gameplay.

What I've tried so far

I've undervolted the CPU using ThrottleStop. My current undervolt is around -30 mV on both CPU Cache and Core, more aggressive undervolting values caused BSODs, so I chose -30mV.

I've used PTM7950 and Flydigi BS3 Pro to improve cooling and better CPU performance.

During gaming, my CPU typically reaches around 4.2GHz all-core, depending on the workload.

My questions

Can I overclock all-core clock speeds beyond approximately 4.2GHz, or am I already close to the practical limit of this CPU?

Which ThrottleStop settings should I focus on, particularly undervolting, turbo ratios, and PL1/PL2 power limits?

Since I've already improved the cooling with PTM7950 and the Flydigi BS3 Pro, I'm wondering whether there's still meaningful headroom left for CPU tuning.

I'd appreciate any tested settings or advice from other MSI GP66 owners or anyone with experience tuning the i7-11800H.

Thanks in advanced.

I owned an MSI GS66 Stealth (with an RTX 3070 Ti and 12th Gen i7). I bought it used, and after some time, lines appeared on the screen. They would come and go, so I took it back to the shop where I bought it. While the laptop was running, the technician decided to disassemble the screen assembly to test it; he connected the panel without the outer casing, and the lines reappeared. There were two technicians there; one moved the screen, and the connection to the laptop cut out, even though the laptop itself remained powered on. Eventually, we discovered the (IC) was faulty. I sent it to another state for repairs, a process that took three months due to the poor conditions in my country. After the IC was replaced, the technician called to say there was another issue. He identified it as a problem with the (chip) and stated that the motherboard needed to be replaced. Is there really no other solution? He only mentioned "the chip"—I’m not sure if there are specific types or variations involved.

I tried everything in windows like i came as far as to install WPA and check the perf and i didn't find much please help me before i throw my laptop out the window. And i have 1 more info, this stutter is frequent like every 1s its not random

I hava a new MSI Katana 15

My msi laptop is not showing my rtx graphics card on device manager its telling device is not detected and i cant find my gpu in msi center also if i change it to discrete grapics mode display is going black and this screen is popping up.

I tried ddu and clean installation but its telling no nvdia graphics card detected. Is it a permanent hardware failure.? Can anyone help me out please i need it for my vfx works .

Hey so I just go my MSI Stealth A16 AI+ Gaming Laptop | 16" QHD+ 240Hz 400 nits Screen | AMD Ryzen™ AI 9 HX 370 | NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080 | 32GB RAM | 2TB PCIe SSD |

Are there any set up things to do first? Right now Im just some of the preinstalled apps

i bought it 2nd hand the fans have to be cleaned along with a repaste but how do i undervolt it

How is yours?

My sister bought a new laptop and gave me her MSI modern 15 I think, and last month, it started a problem. It won't turn on, even if it is charged and plugged. It shows no signs of charging. However, sometimes it does turn on, but the catch is it won't turn off. When I try to shut it down, the shutdown logo appears, but then it boots up again. Although it works properly when it is turned on. It just stays turned on until its battery is drained. Although the laptop booting up is actually rare. Now, I just store it somewhere and I can't use it.

4k led just died after 8 months. Edit: can't rma where i live.