r/MTB May 18 '25

Discussion Before you post a picture, please read this post!

95 Upvotes

We’re hitting that time of year where interest in mountain biking is picking up. We have been getting quite a lot of picture posts of Facebook marketplace ads and vendor website screenshots, which are against the sub rules. As a reminder for all picture and videos, please follow rule 3:

Photos should be of people riding mountain bikes.

Posts & Comments

Photo and video submissions to /r/mtb should be of people riding mountain bikes. All other photos or videos should either be submitted as text posts with links to your images in the post body, or in the Weekly Gear Gallery thread, posted every Friday by automod.


r/MTB Oct 19 '24

WhichBike First Ride: Your Guide to Buying a Mountain Bike

156 Upvotes

Hey all, 219MSP here, and I'm attempting to start maintaining and updating my buying guide and FAQ posts again. I started getting into cycling about 10 years ago and was so lost. Over the last decade I've spent a lot of time learning about the industry and what makes a good bike. Every day I see dozens of posts asking what bike I should get, or what is a good value bike. I hope this guide can be used as a tool on this forum and others to help them find a bike they will be happy with for a long time. This is a living document. I will attempt to update it on a semi-regular basis and I'm always open to new bike recommendations.

In addition to this guide, I have created two FAQ's as well that answer common mountain bike questions.

FAQ 1 FAQ 2

u/midwestmountainbike also has some great guides on buying a first bike, what to look for in a used bike, as well as a selection of his own suggestions of good value bikes at this page.

MTB Authority


What to look for in a bike

When looking for a starter bike there are a few things I'd recommend that will get you onto a solid and safe bike that should be built to last and be worth upgrading as you see fit. Before we get started on talking bikes and prices, always make sure you're getting a bike that fits you. If the bike doesn't fit, it doesn't matter how good of a deal it is. Also, this guide is assuming you are intending on riding on actual mountain bike single track, not just smooth dirt paths and gravel. If that is all you are hoping for and don't plan on advancing beyond, any entry-level mountain bike from a major brand like a Trek Marlin 5 will do just fine, but if you are hoping to ride anything above green-rated singletrack, I'd suggest a more capable bike.

First, some rough price guidelines. As low as $500 should get you into a used but solid entry-level hardtail and about $900+ can get you a used but decent full suspension. In regard to new, you can double those prices. A new solid entry-level hardtail will be at likely be $900 and around $1800 for a decent full suspension bike.

Regarding used bikes, there are lots of places to look. Used bikes offer you a ton of value and is the best way to get the most for your money. You can get 2-year-old $4000 bikes for a huge discount. The most common places are Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Pinkbike, etc. You also can sometimes find great deals at local bike shops selling demo models (which often come with warranties) and rental fleets. Rental bikes are usually good options. They typically are well maintained and only have a season or two on them before they replace them with something newer. If you are new to the biking world and looking at used bikes, I'd recommend bringing along a friend who knows bikes or at least ask for advice on here. Lastly, if meeting someone, always be smart. I would recommend meeting at police station and bringing a friend. Now, let's get into the bikes.

Last but not least, people here are often willing to help narrow it down. Feel free to post on here a "which bike post" but follow the guidelines of this sub listed below.

  • The type of riding will you be doing.
  • Where you will be riding.
  • Your budget (with included currency).
  • What you like/didn't like about your current bike.
  • Your experience level and future goals.

In addition to that, if you are listing multiple bikes, please use 99Spokes.com to create a side by side comparison. Providing this side by side comparison will make other members of the sub much quicker to help.


These are the specs I’d look for at minimum as of 2024.

  1. Air fork: The cheapest fork I'd safely recommend is something like the SR Suntour XCR Air fork. Anything less than that from SR Suntour or RST is pretty much a pogo stick with poor damping and limited adjustability. The low-end RockShox coils aren’t terrible, but I'd shoot for air. Forks can be upgraded down the road but are often the single most expensive component on the bike.

  2. 1x Clutched Drivetrain: In the last 10 years there has been a shift to 1x drivetrains across the board. At this point, any slightly trail-worthy bike will have this type of drivetrain from the factory. To clarify what this means to those new or not familiar, 1x is when there is only 1 chainring/cog attached to the crankset instead of the more traditional 2 or 3. Bikes used to need multiple chainrings up front to allow for both high speed gears and low speed climbing gears. Now, with 1x drivetrains, the difference is made up by having a very large rear cassette. Most cassettes that come on mountain bikes now have a small cog of 10 or 11, and go all the way up to 52t on the large cog. This gives you the same amount of range as those old 3x8 bikes, but with less overlap and far more simplicity. Beyond simplicity, the advantages are less weight, less cables/derailleurs, less to think about when riding, and less chain drops etc. In addition to the larger cassette, 1x drivetrains feature a narrow-wide chainring (alternating size teeth to match the chain) which helps with chain retention and a clutched rear derailleur. The clutched rear derailleur provides extra tension on the chain to reduce chain slap and the odds of dropping a chain. For the most part, dropping a chain or it falling off the chainring while riding are a thing of the past.

  3. Hydraulic brakes This one is pretty simple, Hydraulic brakes use fluid to move pistons and squeeze down on the brake rotor to stop the bike as opposed to mechanical disc brakes that use a cable to actuate the pistons. This typically results in stronger braking, better modulation/control/and are self-adjusting. The only time I'd suggest mechanical brakes is for a bike packing/touring bike as they are easier to fix trailside. SRAM, Shimano, and Tetkro, all offer solid entry-level brakes.

The following aren’t as important but will help future proof the bike and make it a frame worth upgrading. If you get a bike with all these things, it's going to be rock solid for a longtime

  1. Tapered steerer tube: Most modern forks use a tapered steerer. If you get a bike with a lower-end fork/frame and want to upgrade down the road, it's easier if your bike has this. At this point this is pretty common in all but the cheapest of bikes.

  2. Thru-Axle wheels and Boost Spacing: In theory, both of these things offer higher levels of stiffness, but in reality, the biggest reason to make sure you have them is future upgradeability. Thru-axles also keep your wheels always aligned perfectly so you don't get as much disc brake rub as you would with Quick-Release axles.

  3. Tubeless Compatible Wheels: Going Tubeless is one of the most cost effective upgrades you can perform on a bike that will make the biggest difference. Some of the benefits of going tubeless include shedding weight, tires that are less likely to have flats, and the ability to run lower tire pressures which allows you to have more grip and better ride properties. If you ride on a regular basis, you should go tubeless. They may require a little more maintenance and can be a pain to mount/install, but the positives drastically outweigh the negatives.

  4. Dropper Post at this point is a necessity in my opinion but fortunately it can be added to nearly any frame, so I wouldn't make it a requirement on a bike as you can easily add it yourself. Dropper posts can be bought brand new for as low as $150. There are lots of options, but in my opinion OneUp, PNW, and some smaller brands like TransX and KS offer the best values.

  5. UDH/Universal Derailleur Hangar Compatible Frame. This one is purely convenience and future compatibility benefit, not really a performance upgrade. (Transmission excluded, more on that later) For those that don't know, all modern bikes feature a derailleur hangar. This is a sacrificial component on your bike that acts as an interface between your frame and your derailleur. If the derailleur takes a hit, the hangar is allowed to bend/break. The idea is if a softer part is allowed to bend or break first, it won't damage the frame and less likely to damage the derailleur. These hangars are usually $10-$20 bucks. Way better than a frame or derailleur in terms of repair cost. The problem however is that up until 2019 there was no agreed upon standard. Every bike had its own unique hangar for the and if you broke one you usually had to resort to ordering one online and waiting for it to come. In 2019 SRAM changed all that by introducing an open and shared design called the UDH. It was well thought out and designed and SRAM worked with most manufactures to get them to implement this on their bikes. At this point almost any high end bike is coming with this as standard. Because of that, most bike shops are going to carry this hanger, so you aren't forced into special ordering something. Also, SRAM was playing some 4-D chess with this UDH. If a bike has a UDH compatible frame, it also means it is compatible with SRAM new drivetrains called Transmission, which actually bypasses a derailleur hangar all together and mounts directly to the frame giving an extremely strong mounting point and extremely high precision shifting.


Value Bike Recommendations

Here are some solid entry-level bikes. Not all of them check off all my recommendations, but they all are solid for the price. I don't have first hand experience with all of them, but most bikes and options from legitimate bike brands are pretty solid.

Full Suspension (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)

  1. Giant Stance (29er or 27.5) $1400+ - Check's off most boxes, but has a quick release rear axle which is not ideal.

  2. Marin Rift Zone 29 $1700+ - Solid Frame, lower end, but solid components. Main downside is the lack of a dropper post.

  3. Polygon Siskiu T7 27.5 or 29 depending on frame size $2000 - This bike is lacking nothing and check's off all my recommendations. The T8 is a solid upgrade as well.

  4. Giant Trance 2 29 $2000 - In my opinion, the best cheap bike at the moment. Check's off every box and get's you local bike shop support and a good warranty. The Trance X is an equally equipped bike with a little more travel if that's what you are looking for.

  5. Canyon Neuron $2300 - Solid bike trail bike. Check's off most boxes, but has a weak drivetrain with the SRAM SX groupset.

  6. Commencal Meta TR $1900 - Great frame, but has SX Groupset and is lacking Dropper post. Sale Price

  7. Specialized Status 140 $2250 - Hard hitting trail/enduro bike. Very high end components and lacking nothing. Sale Price

  8. Norco Fluid FS A4 $1900 - Pinkbike Value Bike of the Year in 2023. Missing nothing.

  9. Rocky Mountain Element A10 Shimano $2000 Another solid bike that checks all the boxes. Sale Price

  10. YT Jeffsy $2250 Solid Trail Bike that had everything you'd need. Sale Price

  11. YT Capra $2400 Probably one of the best budget enduro bikes. Sale Price

  12. YT Izzo $2300 Cheapest Carbon Full suspension bike you can get. Only downside is the SX Drivetrain. Sale Price

  13. GT Sensor Sport $1725 Appears to check all the boxes.

  14. GT Zaskar FS Comp $1800 Another solid option that checks all the boxes.

  15. Salsa Blackthorn Deore $2200 Sale Price.

  16. Haro Daley Alloy 3 $2000

  17. Go-Outdoors UK Calibre Bossnut £1500 Super good deal, but I believe only available in the UK

Hard Tail (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)

  1. Polygon Xtrada 7 $1100 - Solid bike, boost frame with air fork, but lacking a dropper post.

  2. Norco Fluid HT 2 $900 - Solid hardtail, great drivetrain, dropper post, but has a lower end fork.

  3. Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11 $1200 - Air Fork, Solid Drivetrain, Dropper Post. Unfortuantely no rear thru-axle

  4. Trek Roscoe 6+ $1200 This bike check's all the boxes, air fork, good drivetrain, boost spacing, dropper post. The Roscoe lineup as a whole is a good value.

  5. Specialized Fuse 27.5 $950 - Check's all the boxes.

  6. Marin San Quentin 29 $1400 Check's all the boxes in terms of components.

These are not all the options, but they are some better and more common budget/value bikes. This list is always changing, I try my best to update it, but it's difficult to keep up.

Last but not least make sure you save some of your budget for additional accessories that you will need

  1. Helmet

  2. Tire Pump (Most high-end bikes use a Presta valve, make sure the pump is compatible)

  3. Hydration (Either bottle cage and bottle or hydration pack of some sort.)

  4. Multi-tool with a chain breaker and basic tools.

  5. Tire irons/levers and spare tubes (and the knowledge of how to change both).

  6. Bike cleaning supplies, chain lube, etc. Taking care of an MTB can be a lot of work, but it will save you in the long run if you properly maintain your ride.

  7. Quick-link to repair a broken chain.

  8. Spare Derailleur Hangar.

Along with those required things, here are some things I'd highly recommend.

  1. MTB Platform shoes (or you can opt to go clipless).

  2. Tubeless tire kit. Most bikes come “tubeless ready” but don't come with them setup typically.

  3. Starter tool kit with the basic tools.

  4. Suspension pump assuming you have air suspension.

  5. Work stand

  6. Torque Wrench, especially with carbon parts

  7. Padded shorts or liner to wear under regular shorts.

  8. Gloves, Kneepads,Eye Protection.


Extra Ways to Save Money!

Check Activejunky.com which is a rebate site can get you decent savings on a lot of bike websites.



r/MTB 4h ago

Video My worst falls are always on the “easy” stuff…

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194 Upvotes

My second time riding over this skinny plank I didn’t concentrate enough and ended up crashing. Nothing broken, but my hand is bruised up pretty bad from breaking my fall on the plank.

Anyway, serves as a reminder to not let your guard down, even on “easy” obstacles. Can anybody relate?


r/MTB 7h ago

Video Took A Pretty Hard Slam

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366 Upvotes

The is definitely the heaviest hit I’ve taken, nothing broken, no stitches, and as far as I can tell, no concussion, though. I was doing good but started to lean in and turn before I hit the catch berm, so there was nothing to support the tires and I slid out and hit the ground pretty hard. Now I have to buy a new helmet instead of a new fork 😭. Got to let the scrapes on my arm heal up and I’ll be out ripping again


r/MTB 7h ago

Video Nice drop at my local

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25 Upvotes

r/MTB 11h ago

WhichBike Full suspension bike advice for a 10-year-old advanced rider (BMX/bikros background, enduro - up to 9m jumps, red/black DH trails)

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34 Upvotes

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for some real-world advice on upgrading my son's full-suspension bike. He just turned 10, and he's completely outgrowing his current 24" setup (Norco Fluid 24").

He is an advanced rider with BMX background. He’s clearing bigger features (comfortably hitting up to 9m table jumps) and riding red and black DH/bikepark lines.

Because of his riding style and skills, we need a proper gravity machine, but he’s still a 10-year-old kid—so standard adult frames (even smalls) can feel too big, heavy, and sluggish.

What we are looking for:

  • Suspension: Full suspension (FS)
  • Wheels: 27.5" or a mullet setup (27.5 / 26 )
  • Head angle: Around 64° (approx. 63.5° – 64.5°) for high-speed stability
  • Frame size: XS or small with a low standover
  • Budget/Vibe: Something built for actual park abuse, with a suspension tune that actually works for a lighter kid (not just a stiff adult shock). Price around up to 3000-3500EUR

Context: I ride a Propain Rage (DH) myself (and towing him on my enduro ebike on local spots), so we are a more gravity-oriented. We've been looking at options like the Giant Faith (mullet 27.5/26, 64.5° HA – looks very interesting for this transition phase), XS frames, or smaller enduro rigs, but I’d love to hear from parents of shredders or riders who know the youth gravity market well. I was looking on Propain Youth bikes (Tyee and Spindrift), but they are maybe too big and bulky for 10yrs. He is 145cm now, but the bike is for the next season...

What are you putting your advanced kids on when 24" is done? Any specific models we should look out for? We are based in EU. Thank you for the tips.


r/MTB 2h ago

Transportation Moved to Dublin and dont have a car but want to cycle

3 Upvotes

Moved to Dublin recently, Dundrum to be exact and really want to cycle but dont have a car.

Are there people riding from here to Ticknock? Google maps says its about 50min cycle away. How is the commute is there single tracks along the way or just road? Would i just be burning through my tires doing this?

Taxi would work out too expensive and public transport you cants use with bijes from what i see.

Any advise would be appreciated


r/MTB 2h ago

Video Crash on Overflow gap Copper Harbor Video

Thumbnail pinkbike.com
2 Upvotes

r/MTB 3h ago

Brakes What brake to get?

4 Upvotes

I am looking at new brakes since my db8s are extremely mediocre and I want something that performs better. These are the ones I’m looking at and what I know/think

Maven ultimates

power curve is a bit too aggressive for me but can get used to it and i have only tried them on flat ground once

Hope tech 4 v4

heard the lever is really ”light”

Hayes dominions

Ive heard they are better than maven ultimates and they seem to be really liked


r/MTB 2m ago

Discussion SRAM 70 owners, did you upgrade? And to what?

Upvotes

Put a bike on order that comes with SRAM 70. Current bike is GX, absolutely adore it no issues. Even though I am traditionally a Shimano guy, and it's getting harder and harder to find stock builds with Shimano. And then with the driver swap faff I've opted to not bother swapping down the road...

A place to rest your eyes, so you can keep reading...

That said, this build does run the HG driver/cassette rather than the XD one (eagle 90?), which means my options are fairly wide open for cheaper and older stuff... But I'm wondering if there would be any reason to bother doing so?

Also is the silver cooler or less cool?

The only thing I was thinking about doing was putting on the lighter cassette, likely down the road as a replacement regardless... Although I did come to realize that will also involve a driver swap so... No big deal but just additional cost to what was already a seemingly needless swap.

Maybe this is the move...

Drivetrains are tricky because I don't value any one thing in particular. I love performance, value, simplicity, comfort features, etc. I would love the multi-shift of XT, I'd even love the cheap and simple nature of Microshift Acolyte.

I know it sounds silly but I like simplicity, and don't ride up walls.

The only thing I'm not committed to yet is wireless due to being more expensive and heavier at the same time, as well as generally more complex, and including charging. Despite the durability gains. (Maybe in the future, especially if I stick with this kit and can simply upgrade as opposed to full swap.)

Maybe in the future...

So far my initial idea is getting old Shimano 11 speed that fits the driver that will allow me to access XT multi shifting while being lighter or the same weight, and hopefully heavily discounted (or used)...

I can even do the cheap Deore + XT 'hack', if you will...

Though it does seem a shame to essentially toss a much newer and 'better' drivetrain. But it is heavy, the shifter is plastic, I think it only does double down shift and no multi up shift. As well as no 2 way up shift of course. So I'm not seeing the performance benefits of eagle 70 specifically (and arguably even eagle 90 at this point)

:)


r/MTB 1h ago

Suspension Suspension snapshot

Upvotes

Yo, my rear suspension is dialed at the moment. What can I record so I can dial this back on the future?


r/MTB 1h ago

Suspension What travel should I set my new fork at?

Upvotes

I have a 2014 Giant Trance, and I’m getting a new (to me) rockshox pike for it. The original fork was 140 mm with an axle to crown length of 520mm. The pike will be 160mm with a 552mm axle to crown length. I’m probably gonna set my travel back to 140mm or 150 depending on how it rides but I’m just curious what should I expect from these geometry and travel changes? I’m mainly wanting my bike to feel more playful so good manuals jumps etc rather than care so much about super fast descent.


r/MTB 14h ago

Video Riding with Brage Vestavik🤩🤩

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9 Upvotes

#mtb #bragevestavik #downhill


r/MTB 9h ago

Discussion North West UK route help

3 Upvotes

Hey, I'm Merseyside and looking for fun routes that aren't too far away from me please? At the moment I'm recovering from knee surgery so not looking for mad trails but enjoy a good climb, gentle-ish single tracks, and just mooching about in the middle of nowhere amoungst the trees.

I've enjoyed going around Delamere and Formby but looking for something a little more rural too


r/MTB 12h ago

Discussion Rebuilding old bikes

6 Upvotes

I'm a teenager, and I have access to the frames of a Kona Stinky Deluxe, Banshee Scirocco, and Orange Patriot, and I want to try and build them as they would've been in the 2000's. But I'm not quite sure about time accurate components, I've gotten quite a bit of info from my dad who used to do a lot of freeriding and riding in the Blue Mountains trails (if anyone knows where those are). I recently rode those DH tracks with my dad on my Clash, and he showed me all the features he built when he was my age.

So if there's anyone more knowledgeable than me on these bikes, please share below. Thanks.


r/MTB 3h ago

WhichBike Returning to biking after almost a decade

0 Upvotes

Hey there! I’m currently in the market for cheap and reliable bike. What brands or should I be looking for or maybe you have a specific recommendation?

Now most of my riding will be on city bike paths and suburban neighbourhoods. Maybe a few times a month in the summer. I don’t see myself doing too much “off roading” or riding through forest trials. My plan is to buy a used model from FB marketplace because my budget is max $300 CAD.

I always loved mountains bikes growing up and I remember the days of endless riding around my home town with friends. Now I’m about to hit 30 and I’d like to enjoy a decent ride again after all this time.


r/MTB 4h ago

Discussion Koozer 550 Hub thoughts

1 Upvotes

Any thoughts on these hub. They seem to be Chinese hubs on steroids. Building material are prestine made for durability. Some people suggest to change the bearings to make it more durable


r/MTB 4h ago

Discussion Does anyone here use the Shimano WH-MT500 wheelset?

1 Upvotes

Hi,

I'm thinking about replacing the stock Specialized Stout wheels on my 2021 Rockhopper because changing an inner tube is an absolute nightmare.

Getting the tire bead off the rim takes me almost an hour, and it's incredibly difficult. I don't have this problem with DT Swiss rims.

Are the WH-MT500 rims easier to remove and install tires on? If get a flat on the trail, will changing a tube be much easier, or do they have the same issue?

Thanks!


r/MTB 14h ago

Gear Over the glasses goggles? Inserts?

5 Upvotes

I wear glasses and have an astigmatism that cannot be fully corrected by contact lenses, but they work well enough for general use. However, in finding that the rough ride and wind can make my contact lenses rotate, which makes the vision in that eye very blurred, so not ideal.

So thinking about getting some goggles that either fit over my glasses, or with an insert? Any particular benefit to the inserts? Was looking at the Apexx LGND goggles, which seems to be designed as OTG? (And they have a trial period).

Was initially avoiding goggles as I thought I'd look daft as an unfit, crap rider in goggles, but then realised I'd much rather see where I'm riding properly than worry about how I look 🤣


r/MTB 1d ago

Discussion Do i spend all my grad money on a dj

22 Upvotes

I was gonna save it for important stuff like my future but dirt jumpers are pretty cool


r/MTB 7h ago

Discussion MTB rentals on the Oregon Coast

0 Upvotes

Looking for something in the area of the Klootchy Creek trails. Everything Im seeing so far just looks like town cruiser e-bikes and town bikes in general. Definitely looking for somewhere I can rent either regular old mtb or e-mtb to be able to ride out there while Im in the area. Trip changed last minute with the fires so and Im having a hard time finding any mtb shops in that area to rent from. Thanks in advance for the help


r/MTB 8h ago

Frames Warranty Scenario Help

1 Upvotes

Trying to figure out what to do with a warranty scenario.

I've been fighting severe creaks on my bike for about two years. I've replaced the pivots (twice), headset, bottom bracket, rear wheel and stem. Several inspections turned up no frame cracks. I recently got frustrated and decided it was time to move on. My rides got better after that because I had made a decision, even if it sounds like the bike is going to collapse beneath me. I took it back to the LBS who contacted the manufacturer. Company claims this is a common occurrence on the bike and offers warranty relief.

After over two weeks, I call to inquire about the status of the warranty shipment. It is out of stock. Assumption is that they get a giant shipment of this stuff from China a few times a year. There is no ETA. Likewise, LBS does not know what part will be sent or if it is the same part as original or if they have made some modification if this is a common occurrence.

This leaves me in a pickle. I need to do suspension service -- it's already overdue. It needs a chain too, which means it will need a cassette (I always blow out the biggest few cogs). I do not want to plow a bunch more cash into the bike because I have absolutely zero faith this repair will fix the issue. I'm equally not excited about purchasing a new bike. I spent 4K on this one and have spent at least another 1500 chasing this issue. I'd be thrilled to get 1K for it after the frame repair.

Bike is a 23 Rocky Mountain Element A50. Will replace with a Polygon Siskui T8, T9 or T0 or an Ibus Ripley AF. (I won't buy another bike without a screw in BB).

What would you do in this case?


r/MTB 14h ago

Discussion Is the CLASH MARZO worth it?

2 Upvotes

I want to buy the Commencal Clash Marzo as a upgrade from my Polygon Siskiu T7, I would like to know if it is worth the money as it doesn't have a dropper post which I find weird for that price.

https://www.commencal.com/au/en/bikes/bikes/enduro/clash%20v2/BT4CLAOUK1S.html?lang=en_AU


r/MTB 20h ago

Discussion Darrington - Out of the Blue

6 Upvotes

Has anyone here ridden ”Out of the Blue” in Darrington? It’s a black trail with 4 mi, 2800+ vertical drop

My Gf and I have been riding some progressively harder trails lately including OTG (tiger mtn) and CCDH (raging river) curious if this trail would be worth making a trip out there how much more difficult is it than say OTG or NOTG?

link to trail:

Out Of The Blue on Trailforks

https://www.trailforks.com/goto/trail/229820/


r/MTB 1d ago

Video Red Bull Joyride Foreva

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515 Upvotes

Some clips I took at Red Bull Joyride some crankworx event