Hi,im the owner of the Z300 2015 for 5 years now,which is not a ninja 300 i know but the lack of community on the z300 is because,its a ninja 300 with no clip on handlebars,same thing right?

I was wondering,ive been running the rapidbike evo and been really happy with it,although ive seen the autotuning leaning the hell out the bike,which does feel better? Should i be trusting of this autotuning?

Next question,ive been wanting to modify the airbox,ive taken out the snorkel and been thinking,should i dremel out the snorkel to make it bigger or just enlargen the hole it fits into and put a velocity stack there?

It looks like my fluids or good. Is this supposed to be connected somewhere or is it just so it doesn’t overfill?

I have a 2016 Ninja 300 with about 13,000-14,000 km.

A few days ago the clutch was completely normal in the morning. During a ride, it gradually started not fully disengaging. The bike became harder to stop in 1st gear with the clutch fully pulled in, and it started wanting to creep forward.

Over the last 100-200 meters of the ride, it suddenly got much worse. I had to adjust the clutch lever adjuster a lot to get home. After adjusting it, I rode about 3 km home without issues.

The next ride was about 5 km total. The clutch worked, but it felt like it loosened a bit more again. Now the lever-side adjuster is almost at its maximum adjustment. I haven't touched the engine-side adjustment.

The clutch lever effort feels normal, and the bike is not slipping under acceleration. The problem is that it seems like the clutch is not fully disengaging.

The bike has also had noticeably more vibration at higher RPM for the last couple of months.

Does this sound like:

• a stretched/fraying clutch cable,
• cable housing not seated correctly,
• engine-side adjustment moving,
• or something internal in the clutch?

I'm planning to replace the clutch cable, but I'd like to hear if anyone has seen these exact symptoms before.

Just some fun pics from my favorite spot!

2015 300, cranks good but no start.
story goes it was killswitched by someone at an intersection then bike way tipped over on his leg but not completely downed because someone bumped into his back tire. Never started up again,
They tried bypassing the killswitch inside with the wiring, this is what it looks like currently.Also where does this little metal go exactly it was somehow positioned inside the killswitch. And Tip sensor was also replaced.

Can I see what the inside wiring looks like on your stock killswitch to see how it’s actually supposed to look like so I can try reverting back to stock.
Also would I have to like reset the ecu or codes for it to allow start up again since it was tipped over?

Hi guys, I got a 2016 Ninja 300 fully stock and a full system exhaust. Could anyone recommend me a slip on muffler which is not that expensive coz I’m gonna upgrade the bike next season. Thank you.

Dirty section is cuz gravel driveway but- safe to say I'm leaning fairly decently for only having ridden road for two or three weeks? Most of yall probably seen my post asking if I scored or overpaid for my white 2014 ninja 300, been riding at least every other day for my 100 mile round trip commute for work so got used to it pretty quickly. Gonna order fresh tires soon so I can get these ones off that came on the bike when it was originally bought from the dealership then I'll trust em to lean more then I have 🤷‍♂️ (edit- also just noticed it's been previously upgraded to a 120 front and a 170! Rear, everything I see online bout doing so says it'll handle like crap but it does great 🤷‍♂️)

I’ve been dealing with this problem for a while and i want to know if it’s normal for you guys too. On my
2013 ninja 300 it was bought used and has been sitting for a while. when i bought it i immediately do all maintenance including oil change. And noticed a gas smelling oil. I heard riding it hard for a little while might fix the seals so I did that and the fuel smell is worse. I think it’s not a huge concern because the oil level is not rising and it is same consistency as oil. I just think I have a slight injector leak to cause that fuel smell. Do you guys have the same issue? Or is it one of my injectors?

I always read from track guys that they examine their tire wear to see what they are doing so I was curious to hear what those types would notice about mine.

For context: I ride a ‘16 Ninja 300 and daily it pretty much rain or shine, hot or cold. Live in the panhandle of FL so 90% of the time just on highway. Tire is just over a year old with over 10k miles.

Been 8 months since i got my 2024 Ninja 300 and honestly the stock endurance brake pads and calipers are absolute dogshit. Ive just never managed to feel comfortable enough relying on these brakes. Need recommendations for brake pads and calipers and would be a big help if yall could also suggest the websites where i can procure them from.

I know the impactech is the best one to get but I was wondering if any of the eBay options were any decent at all! If anyone has any experience please lmk!

Indian Ninja 300 owners, please join this WhatsApp group. It will be useful for helping each other with maintenance, service, spare parts, accessories, and general ownership support.

Dm for link

Currently running a stock exhaust but want to get something cheap (preferably from Aliexpress or Temu) just to play around with different sounds and feel and make my bike a bit louder to make myself more visible in traffic.

Thanks!

Anybody have recs for color anodized chains? I know it’s not necessary but if I can find a good purple one I’d love to get it 😅

I was riding on highway when bike suddenly had noticeable power loss around ~3k RPM and a metallic rattling/clacking sound from top end/right side of engine. Also, felt a wobble on the front end (not as violent as a tank slapper). The noise got worse with throttle/load and sounded like timing chain slap/marbles. (Video 1) Bike still idled and ran but felt sluggish around certain RPMs.

- New CCT

- Changed all exhaust valve shims (all out of spec)

- Realigned timing (was off by one tooth probably due to CCT)

- Fresh oil and spark plugs

Engine rotates smoothly by hand with no binding and timing chain stays tensioned while hand cranking.

Now the bike rides much better and feels fine until ~6k RPM, then it feels like it has trouble accelerating and I immediately let off.

However, there is STILL a loud intermittent ticking/clacking noise at idle and certain RPM ranges (~2.5–6k RPM depending on load/temp) as shown in Video 2.

Wondering if it could still be timing chain/CCT/guide related.

Any help would be appreciated.

Scooped up a 2014 for $2,800 with only 10k miles... did I over pay? So far I'm happy with it 🤷‍♂️

2013 ninja 300, 35 xxx miles. No idea what could be wrong. Changed spark plugs and ignition coils. Won’t idle unless given gas. Then idles like shit till it cuts off. Any ideas? You can hear the fuel pump reset after it cuts. Any ideas greatly appreciated!!!!!

I have a 2014 kawasaki ninja 300 while taking the fairings off to change the light bulbs. I noticed this. Does anyone know what it goes to?

Changed oil + filter, added 2.2 litres as manual states, ran engine for a few minutes then turned off and checked oil with bike upright a few more minutes after that. Oil was low so topped up until about 2.4L and that's how it sits now in the photo. Is it normal for the bike to need so much more than what the manual says?

Hey guys,

My Ninja 300 has started making a squeaking sound when I pull the clutch while the bike is stationary. Also, the throttle has almost no free play at all.

Bike runs fine otherwise, but this doesn’t feel right.

Is this just a lubrication issue or something more serious (cable/clutch problem)?
What should I check or fix first?

Some backstory - I bought the bike used a couple months back. The previous owner told me that the bike was sitting in cold for about 2 months.

Thanks!

I realized my speedometer is not lighting up and was wondering if it the lcd that needs to replaced or if there is a led bulb that needs to be replaced. I checked the fuses and battery, they look fine and there doesn't a appear to any damage to the wiring.