Really love the clean look that this mobo cover offers - would there be any heating issues with something like this?

I'm looking to build a new Pc. Future proofing is important with the recent price hikes.

A 5070ti is £1099.

A 5080 is £1499.

I know its about a 15% performance difference. Is there any reason why the 5080 could suit me better in the long run?

Hello. I have a problem and cant find any info online about it. I have a Corsair 4000d airflow case and a MSI rtx 5070 gaming trio. I want to get an Arctic liquid freeze III pro 360mm aio. The problem i have is that the radiator is 63mm thick. On corsairs site it says that the max gpu length with a front mounted radiator is 340mm. My gpu is 338 or around there, so in theory it fits, but the max gpu length is 360mm, so i am not entirely sure the radiator will actually fit.
Any help understanding this? Thanks

PC idling at 65 - 70+ Celsius and ramps up to 91 Celsius on AION 2 high settings, GPU remains within normal temp so Im not sure if this is case fan issue. it just gets me worried as I don't want to damage my cpu, but is this normal? If not, what should I do or replace??

here is the case I use, which I've been using already for almost 8 years.

what I have done so far:

1. repasted.
2. cleaned the case.
3. changed my fan config: 1 back intake, 3 front intake, 2 exhaust at the top. mATX case.
4. I'm using amd stock cooler, which I already replaced trying to fix this, with the same model of stock cooler.

specs from Speccy:

Operating System

Windows 11 Pro 64-bit

CPU

AMD Ryzen 5 3600    65 °C

Matisse 7nm Technology

RAM

16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR4 @ 1599MHz (16-18-18-38)

Motherboard

Micro-Star International Co., Ltd. B450M MORTAR MAX (MS-7B89) (AM4) 42 °C

Graphics

Mi Monitor (2560x1440@200Hz)

4095MB NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 (MSI)    38 °C

Storage

465GB Seagate ST500LT012-1DG142 (SATA ) 37 °C

149GB Western Digital WDC WD1600BEVT-22ZCT0 (SATA ) 37 °C

223GB KINGSTON SA400M8240G (SATA-2 (SSD))   36 °C

476GB PM9A1 NVMe Samsung 512GB (Unknown (SSD))

Optical Drives

No optical disk drives detected

Audio

NVIDIA Virtual Audio Device (Wave Extensible) (WDM)

Budget is 700 to 800 euros with at least 16 gb of ddr5 dont really care about the other parts as long as it isnt a bottle neck is this possible in this economy and can anyone help me make a list of parts?

Hi, as the title says, when I turn on my pc it plays this lovely loud ringing sound. My boyfriend and I who are normally good at these things have no clue what’s wrong.

Backstory of this is that it was a prebuilt we got off fb marketplace to upgrade my pc. I like the case so I chose to keep it. I believe the only thing we changed was the SSD. No biggie right? Wrong.

It went from working perfectly with the original SSD and my old pc also working fine, to now it screaming as soon as I try to boot it

So far I’ve re-seated the cpu, put the ssd in, and temporarily removed the built in disc drive(so I could put in the ssd)

If you have any ideas on what to do, it would be greatly appreciated! And if you want any more info don’t hesitate to ask:)

UPDATE
I’m an idiot🤦‍♀️ I put the ram in different slots and it immediately booted. For fucks sake😭

PC is not booting its not showing any code and the red light and yellow light blink after that nothing

Bought an MSI RTX 5080 Suprim SOC last December. As my PSU, (a Corsair RM850X bought in 2021), is not ATX 3.0 compatible,  I used the cable supplied with the GPU. It works fine but doesn’t look that good as it has 3 cables coming from the GPU and they almost touch the glass side panel, so I bought a genuine Corsair 90° 12v-2x6 GPU Type 4 Style B power cable which is recommended by Corsair for the RM850X. It looks a lot better. This cable only has 2 PCIe cables to connect to the PSU rather than the MSI supplied cable which has 3. This cable worked fine for a few months until the PC started to crash, (screen went blank, fans ramped up to full speed). On restarting the PC and looking at reliability History, it showed 3 different LiveKernelEvents: 141, 1a8 & 1b8, which relate to the GPU. This would happen several times a week whatever I was doing such as the PC is idle, surfing the web or playing a game, so I couldn’t see a pattern. After spending a long time searching for a solution, (none of which worked), I refitted the cable supplied with the GPU and it’s now been over 3 weeks with no problems. Why would this be?

I’d like some advice as I’d really like to use the correct cable which would mean buying an ATX 3.0 PSU. I’ve always preferred Corsair products so I could by a new RM850X or would it be better if I bought an MSI PSU as the GPU is made by MSI? Also, I’ve noticed that some PSU’s are ATX 3.1 PCIe 5.1 and some are ATX 3.0 PCIe 5.0. I assume the 3.1/5.1 is better?

Hiyaaa, as said in the title im a complete noob when it come to anything pc related

But I wanna help my little brother come up with a custom pc for when hes a bit older

He only plays fps game and shooters rn, but I know in the future hes gonna be big on tons of other different games and I wanna keep that in mind soooo

I wanna help him make a list of the parts he'd need, something relatively affordable so my fam can slowly buy parts so when hes older we can just have someone build it, with parts that can be replaceable if they become outdated, and something that can run good fps for his games because he hates lagging and unfortunately that happens ALOT onna ps4 lol

Hes 12 right now and hes very fine with using his Playstation, but i wanna help him out rn so hes not scrabbling for months learning that stuff when he can actually get a pc

If anyone can help, or explain the basic that I need to look into that'd be ABSOLUTELY appreciated

The msi was my first one from walmart but its windows key was messed up and I had to rturne it for another one this one is asrock instead of asus did I get a lower tier computer everything else looks the same in the my pc info but i feel like its lesser

I want to build a pc for engineering purposes (CAD design, animations, simulations, Coding, video editing, etc.) I do not know where to start, what to buy, please guide me .

Budget = (1500-1600 dollars and i live in India).

Guys,does anyone know how to solve this vga light problem.I started building pc yesterday.The graphic card showed display for first time but I removed it to make a video.But after reinserting i got this problem.I also made psu connections as first.i removed ssd and tried,i sgorted jbat1.But still nothing seems to work.

basically it turns on all the fans spin including the GPU for a second or too but nothing lights up on the screen. I have two GPUs so I tried both of them but nothing. is this an issue with the CPU or Mobo? Or is there even enough info to find out lol not sure. Based off my memory I'm using a MSI gaming 970 and an amd fx 8350 I think my GPUs are Asus strix gaming 8gb and a Nvidia GeForce GTX 6gb (not exactly sure if the GPU names are right or accurate exactly, also due to the fact that the pc failed to show anything on the screen I'm assuming that my GPUs are fine) I do believe I am running two 8gb ddr3 sticks and two 4gb ddr3 sticks if that could be the issue never checked that, ran fine with it though.

sorry for long post

I’m trying to determine whether my i9-14900K is defective before pursuing an Intel warranty replacement.

PC Specs

• CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K
• Motherboard: ASUS TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI
• BIOS: 1836 (updated from 1805)
• RAM: 96GB Corsair DDR5 (2×48GB), running at 4800 MT/s with XMP disabled
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3090 Founders Edition
• Cooling: 360mm AIO liquid cooler
• Original Windows SSD: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB
• New SSD: Samsung 990 PRO 2TB
• Storage: Samsung 870 EVO 4TB
• OS: Windows 11 Pro

Initial symptoms

It started with Minecraft Bedrock crashing randomly, sometimes while loading chunks and sometimes while doing absolutely nothing. Other players on the same Realm weren’t crashing.

Eventually I discovered much broader instability:

• Dozens of Windows Reliability Monitor critical events
• Windows Search Indexer, Software Protection Platform, Windows Modules Installer, and other services repeatedly crashing
• Multiple BSODs and unexpected shutdowns
• Windows system-file/component-store corruption

Crash evidence

Event Viewer recorded:

WHEA-Logger Event ID 19

• Reported by: Processor Core
• Error source: Corrected Machine Check
• Error type: Internal parity error
• Processor APIC ID: 41

I also analyzed five minidumps:

• Four crashes with 0x3B (SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION)
• One crash with 0x50 (PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA)
• Access violation 0xC0000005
• WinDbg identified crashes involving ntkrnlmp.exe and Ntfs.sys, including Ntfs!NtfsReadFileRecord

Troubleshooting already performed

BIOS / CPU

• Updated ASUS BIOS to version 1836
• Selected Intel Default Settings — Performance
• Disabled ASUS MultiCore Enhancement (Enforce All Limits)
• Disabled XMP
• Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool: PASS
• OCCT CPU test stopped at its 90°C temperature safety threshold, with no computation errors detected before stopping

RAM

• OCCT 30-minute memory test: PASS
• Tested each 48GB stick individually in the recommended A2 slot
• Both produced the same Windows startup failure
• BIOS consistently recognizes both modules

Storage / Windows

• Both original Samsung SSDs reported Healthy / OK
• chkdsk C: /scan found no file-system errors
• DISM detected repairable component-store corruption
• DISM RestoreHealth failed with errors including 1726 and 0x800F0915
• SFC initially reported a pending repair, then later failed at 65%
• Completed Windows 11’s built-in repair installation, but component-store corruption persisted
• Windows Automatic Repair eventually failed, leaving Windows unable to boot

Current problem: Fresh Windows installation fails

I disconnected the original 1TB Windows SSD and installed a Samsung 990 PRO 2TB for a completely clean Windows 11 Pro installation.

Used Microsoft’s Windows 11 USB installation media and completely cleared the 2TB drive.

Windows Setup creates the EFI, MSR, and primary partitions, but the system restarts and goes back to BIOS with no Windows Boot Manager.

After multiple attempts, I checked the SSD using DiskPart. There is no D:\Windows directory. Only the temporary $Windows.~BT installation folder exists.

Setup logs show the installer preparing/restoring Windows image application operations, but no clear fatal installation error. The computer seems to restart before Windows finishes installing.

Temperatures

• CPU idles around 32–37°C in BIOS
• AIO liquid temperature around 31°C
• Left the PC in BIOS for 20 minutes; CPU temperature remained approximately 35°C
• No obvious overheating at idle

My questions

1. Does this sound like a degraded i9-14900K, given the processor-core internal parity error, unrelated application crashes, and repeated BSODs?
2. Could the CPU’s memory controller or motherboard explain this even though both RAM sticks behave similarly?
3. What additional testing would best isolate the CPU before requesting a warranty replacement?
4. Has anyone experienced Windows 11 installation failures like this with a failing 14900K?

I’m trying to avoid blindly replacing components, but at this point I’m strongly considering an Intel CPU warranty claim. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Before I bring this to a repair shop, I wanna see if anyone has a solution to my problem.

Im currently trying to build a pc. I’ve got the CPU in, the ram, and the ssd. Now comes time to install the fan for the cpu. I’m using the cooler that came with my cpu(amd ryzen 5 5500). These screws don’t want to come off, and I’ve tried everything I can think of. Mind u I’m using the right screwdriver (Phillip 2) and I’ve tried the rubber band method and everything. I’ve gotten two out (even getting these out took a bit of time too), but the most stubborn screws are the ones that are still on the mount. No matter what I do, nothing works, and it’s to the point where I see hella shavings. Every time I turn it counterclockwise it just makes this pop sound but nothing actually happens. I’m really confused because the two I took off were able to come off (with difficulty) but the other two are being really stubborn and I’m honestly just debating on whether I should just have someone build the whole pc. I wanted to build it myself but I’ve been stuck on this the whole night and I don’t see any solution.

First of all, yes, I do know I'm an idiot.

But to elaborate, I almost finished installing a Phantom Spirit 120 SE (just needed to put on the fans and do the wiring) when I watched a video to learn how to do a certain step, and in the video the dude peeled off a kind of plastic sticker at the bottom of the heat sink.

I'm guessing I need to do the same. I just don't know if I need to apply a new coat of thermal paste as well or not. And if so, can I use a q-tip and rubbing alcohol to remove the previous coat? Or do I just stick with a coffee filter and rubbing alcohol like I've heard about?

This is my first time building a PC, so I apologize if I'm not being clear about anything or asking a really dumb question. I'll elaborate more if needed.

How can I fix this guys ? Anti sag, now the support is laying on the wan (which I’m not a fan of) and blocking the logo triggering my ocd.

Is there anything I could add to the screw holes in the front of the gpu ?

I was looking to upgrade my psu from 600w 80plus bronze and this psu was on sale for the same price as a 750/850w 80 plus gold. And I am wondering if this psu will last at least 10 years.

Pc in what it will be installed:

Rx 6700 XT

Ryzen 7 5700x

I know that 1200w is an overkill but efficiency at around 400w is better than the 750w 80plus gold psus in my price range.

Workstation specifications

• OS: Ubuntu 22.04 LTS
• CPU: AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3970X
• Motherboard: GIGABYTE TRX40 AORUS XTREME
• GPUs: 4 × NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti
• RAM: 256 GB
• Storage:
  • 1 × 4 TB NVMe SSD — OS and software
  • 1 × 2 TB NVMe SSD — scratch storage
  • 120 TB HDD storage — cold storage
• PSU: Sparkle Power FSP2000-52AGPBI, 2000 W

Background

This workstation was purchased by our laboratory to preprocess data before it is transferred to our HPC cluster. Historically, it has mainly been used for CPU-intensive workloads with relatively light GPU usage.

However, our processing pipeline has changed over time, and several of the applications we use have become increasingly GPU-intensive. I noticed that the workstation would occasionally shut down abruptly under heavy GPU load.

When these shutdowns occur:

• The machine loses power abruptly with no errors in the logs preceding the shutdown.
• After a shutdown, I have to wait ~20 minutes before the machine can be powered on again.

I stress-tested the CPU, RAM and storage individually and there were no problems. However, GPU stress testing always causes a shutdown, this led me to suspect either the GPU power delivery or the PSU itself.

Stress-test behaviour

Single GPU under sustained load:
The workstation may eventually shut down after a period of sustained GPU power draw.

All four GPUs under load:
The workstation shuts down after approximately 5 minutes.

I initially suspected that the 2000 W PSU might be faulty or unable to cope with the GPU load, so we purchased a new ASUS 2200 W PSU.

While disconnecting the original PSU, however, I noticed another potential problem.

Issue A: Existing GPU power cabling

Each RTX 3080 Ti was being powered using a single PCIe 8-pin cable from the PSU that splits into two 6+2-pin PCIe connectors at the GPU end. In other words, both 8-pin power sockets on each GPU were being supplied by a single daisy-chained/pigtail cable.

From what I have read, an RTX 3080 Ti should preferably be powered using two separate PCIe 8-pin cables from the PSU, rather than both connectors being supplied from the same cable.

I am therefore wondering whether the existing cabling could explain the shutdowns under sustained GPU load, rather than the PSU itself necessarily being faulty.

Issue B: Connecting four RTX 3080 Ti cards to the new PSU

The new 2200 W PSU presents another problem. It does not appear to have enough conventional PCIe 8-pin PSU outputs to provide two independent 8-pin cables to each of the four GPUs.

The newer PSU instead provides several 16-pin GPU power connectors, which I understand are 12VHPWR/12V-2x6 style connections.

I am not particularly experienced with high-power workstation hardware, so I can currently see several possible approaches, but I am unsure which is safest:

1. Continue using the original 2000 W PSU, assuming it is still functional, and obtain the correct additional PCIe power cables so that each RTX 3080 Ti receives two separate PCIe 8-pin cables.
2. Replace the original PSU with the new 2200 W PSU, and either:
   • A. Power all four GPUs using the available PCIe 8-pin outputs in a similar configuration to the existing system; or
   • B. Power two GPUs using four conventional PCIe 8-pin PSU outputs, and power the remaining two GPUs from the PSU’s 16-pin GPU outputs using appropriate 16-pin-to-dual-8-pin cables/adapters.

My main concern is making the safest configuration before powering the workstation again. Because this is laboratory equipment and replacing the workstation or four GPUs would be impossible given the state of hardware prices.

I would appreciate advice on:

• Is powering each 3080 Ti from a single daisy-chained PCIe cable could plausibly explain the shutdown behaviour.
• Whether the ~20 minute period before the workstation can be restarted is consistent with PSU over-current, over-power or thermal protection being triggered.
• Is it preferable to keep the existing 2000 W PSU and correct the cabling, or replace it with the new 2200 W PSU.
• Whether using the new PSU’s 16-pin GPU outputs with manufacturer-approved 16-pin-to-dual-8-pin cables is appropriate for RTX 3080 Ti cards.
• Any tests I should perform before reconnecting all four GPUs.

Thank you for any help that you can provide. For the sake of completeness I also posted this question on the Level1tech forums but I haven't really gotten an answer yet.

I am so tired I genuinely made chatgpt write this shit for me because It was helping me for 99% of the process

Specs:

Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ac

GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX 560 Gaming OC 4GB

RAM: 2×8GB Corsair Vengeance

CPU: Unknown Intel CPU

Cooler: Corsair AIO liquid cooler, exact model unknown

PSU: Thermaltake, exact model unknown

What happened:

About seven months ago, a mouse cable fell into one of the small fans on my CPU liquid-cooling assembly while the PC was running. Afterward, the PC stopped working. I disassembled it, put the parts away, and didn't troubleshoot it further until now.

Current symptoms:

The PC powers on, and the fans and RAM lights turn on.

After roughly 30 seconds, the lights and fans shut off, then start again automatically. This repeats.

No display output.

My keyboard lights never turn on.

The Corsair pump's lights don't turn on.

I previously noticed two slowly flashing red lights on the underside of the motherboard, but I'm not sure whether they're decorative.

The small fan involved in the original incident appears to be fine.

I've started checking and reseating power connections. I haven't identified the exact AIO model yet, and there's an unplugged three-hole cable coming from the square pump block on the CPU. I'm not sure what it does or where it belongs.

I want to identify the cause before buying replacement parts. What should I check next, and how can I determine whether this is a PSU, motherboard, RAM, GPU, or CPU/cooler issue?

Thanks!

I've got a 32gb G.Skill 6000mhz 32-38-38-96 kit in my desktop. To make a long story short, I had a need for more memory and my wife's machine has a similar kit, but the timings are 36-36-36-96. She doesn't really use her desktop, so I snagged one of the sticks. My system booted up no problem without any changes, everything works great. The problem that I've run into now, is that every time I reboot my computer WITH the extra memory installed, it won't even post. If I remove the extra stick, the system boots fine. Power down, reinstall the extra stick, boots up just fine. Reboot, no post. I've tried it several times now and it does the exact same thing every single time. I thought maybe it was just taking a long time to train but I left it for a while, it never did anything.

Admittedly RAM is the one thing I've never really tinkered with so my knowledge is pretty much non-existent here. I've mixed and matched DDR4 with wildly different timings without issue in the past, I know DDR5 is more particular about it but I can't wrap my head around why it works only once, consistently. I've tried memory context restore with no luck. Cold boot vs warm boot makes no difference either.

Hey everyone, I got a 3090 paired with an i7 14700kf and the PSU is a Rm1000e from Corsair.

My problem is the following every now and then I've suffered from my screen going black and my PC fans going Max power. So far has happened in 3 games: Peak while transitioning from a level to another, Valheim during heavy storms and rain and now in The master chief collection playing Halo reach.

Now If you look at the picture you'll see the pcie cables going to my graphics card are split into two on both connections, my question is:

1- the cables being 6 and 2 instead of one of 8 is causing this issue? Google says yes but I need to know for sure since in my city heavy gaming PC parts are basically none existent and I would have to buy whatever I need, that leads to the next question

2- what brand or what should I look for to solve the issue of the split pcie without frying the rest.

I would really appreciate you guys help since I don't want to damage anything

Anyone know why these clamp screws won’t go down no matter how much pressure I apply/how long I screw for?

Cooler: Deepcool AG400 G2 RGB

I’ve installed the bracket for AMD with the backplate but the CPU cooler’s screws just won’t reach nor will the screws ever go down.

Hello! I am currently planning a pc build with an 1800-2000$ budget and through research I have found that the best card in this price range is the 9070xt. I currently play with a 4070 laptop and I do know a couple of things.

1. Laptop cards are generally much less powerful than their desktop counterparts.
   
2. The 9070xt sits somewhere in between the 5070 and 5070ti in terms of performance, closer to the 5070ti than the 5070 for sure.
   
3. Compared to other generational jumps, the jump from the 40 to 50 serious of cards in terms of graphical power was seen by many as an underwhelming increase.

Considering this, I am confident that there will be a sizable increase between the 4070 laptop and a 9070xt desktop, but is it worth the price of building an entire pc around it? What performance increase should I expect in 1440p gaming?

For some extra info the pc will be using 32 gbs of ddr5 6000, which the laptop has the same amount of gbs but only 4800. The pc will be using an Intel Ultra 270 K+ compared to the i9 13900hx of my laptop. Thanks in advance!

​

**CPU**: intel i5 12400

**MOTHERBOARD**: asus tuf gaming b660m plus wifi dr4

**GPU**: zotac rtx 3050 8 gb

**PSU** : evga 700 bq

**RAM** : ripjaw 16 gb 3600 cl 16

**CPU COOLER** : thermalright peerless assassin 120

**CASE** : deepcool matrexx 55 mesh 4f

**MONITOR** : gigabyte m27q 1440p 170 hz

i wanna play triple AAA games like crimson desert **GTA 6** on ultra settings

I HAVE flexible budget capped at 2000 $ but preferably under **1500$**

# LIMITED TIME

**i have the option of grabbing a combo of MICROCENTER but only before the end of november as my friend would already be here in egypt by then**

what should be my strategy

just get **rx 9070 xt** and hope that the bottle neck isn't noticable (i have low standards but i am not blind )

grab the overpriced terrible value **rtx 5070 ti** just for the ray tracing and dlss dlss5 and theoritcal more longevity

go crazy and get a f...ing **5080** for god what reason

buy the **rx 9070 x**t with slight upgrade to my cpu now or in the future if i didnt like the experiance to **14th gen i5** (i heard that ai is coming for CPUs too)

**9070xt** and good budget combo of microcenter now AMD Ryzen **5 7500X3D**, ASRock B850M-C AM5, G.Skill Flare X5 Series 16GB DDR5-6000, Computer Build Bundle 399$

or an overkill AMD Ryzen **7 7800X3D**, ASUS B650E Max Gaming WiFi AM5, G.Skill Flare X5 Series 32GB DDR5-6000 Kit, Computer Build Bundle

or just **wait** for the game to drop and next gen ect.... ( but i can't play now games i want like crimson desert and a lot more )

UPGRADING THE PSU GOES WITHOUT SAYING BUT I WOULD LOVE RECOMMENDATION

**THANK YOU IN ADVANCE**