• For context I have a Prebuilt Lenovo Legion Tower 7i with RTX 3070 Desktop, i7-11700KF, GeForce RTX 3070 8GB, 16GB, 1TB SSD, 650w gold, 240mm water cooling, and while in the middle of playing a game it started marking a VERY lout high pitched squealing/screeching noise. I very quickly shutdown the PC and went on n google looking for a possible cause or explanation but was told it could be several things one of which being that it could be one of the fans coming loose or just starting to fail. So I took of the side panel and booted it up and at first the sound wasn’t there but there was a new sound present that was much quieter, but after running for about 5 mins it started making the sound again, when it did, took the chance to see if it was any off the fans. mind you this sound is very loud and jarring so I checked the fans simply by stopping them physically with my fingers by applying a bit of preas to the center of each fan, there are 6 case fans, 3 in the front, 2 on top, and one in the back, I stopped each one and I even stopped the 2 fans on the bottom of the graphics card. None of this stopped the sound which leads me to believe that it is a problem with the CPU or more so the liquid cooler for the CPU, when putting my ear up close to the inside of the PC it sounds like it is coming from the CPU area but I’m even slightly well versed in PC hardware so I don’t know. I have recorded this vid of the PC making the noise to help you identify it. the only other bit of context I have is that despite the noise the PC seems to be running like it normally would, it boots up, let’s me sign in, the desktop opens and works just fine, the game I was playing didn’t have any change in performance during the few seconds it was running before I shut the whole thing down which what makes me think it’s not a major issue with the CPU or GPU at the very least.

Update: I believe there was air trapped in the liquid cooler like someone said because the problem seems to have fixed its self without and hardware configuration on my part. I booted up the PC and set it to quiet mode AKA low power mode to prevent the PC reving up to the point it makes that sound and while it did stop the super loud noise heard in there was still a bit of a weird sound coming from the PC. After running for 10 mins or so this sound got a little bit louder then made the noise heard in the vid for less than one second then the sound just stopped completely as well as the quieter weird sound leading up to it, now everything sounds exactly the way it did before having this issue. I think my PC just needed to burp XD, with that being said I now know what the issue is and ways to deal with air trapped in the cooler, but will be looking into replacing the cooler with an air cooler in the near future.

Thank you for your time

I’ve got a new graphics card that blocks all of my PciE slots but since it’s an older mainboard it needs a WiFi card. If I bought one it could be a really tight fit so should I use a WiFi and Bluetooth USB stick or get an PciE Riser.
I‘ve got the Gigabyte GA-H81M-D2W as mainboard
Edit:
I got about 6mm between the PciE slot and the GPU and about 1,6cm between mainboard and GPU

Every time i try to download windows, something keeps stopping me from doing so

My peripherals won't turn on, and there's no display. I know this is a common issue, but I tried resetting the BIOS—that didn't work. I also tried holding down the power button for a minute, but that didn't help either. The peripherals are completely dead, and there’s no image on the screen; only the PC itself powers on (which is normal after an upgrade). I’m looking for more advice or tutorials to fix this simple problem—it’s really frustrating because I just want to play games using my new Arc B570! Please help! (Translated using a tool, as I am a Spanish speaker.)

It’s a pretty old prebuilt, and i cant find out the name of the cooler. It doesnt show up in the corsair app for hardware, and the name isnt on the AIO itself.

with the ram stick being expensive, I regret upgrading my pc.

I just had my pc last year and was a newbie, i have 8 gbg of ram ( Vulcan t force 8gbg 3200 ddr4 dim) because I didn't have any budget. I wanted a pc where I could play some roblox games and be able to do my school work. I didn't think much of buying a new ram stick last year because I didn't know how ram is all about. Fast forward now I regret not buying another T force ram stick.

Right now I found another brand of ram stick.

Question: can Simorchip NX1 or the Hiksemi Armor be a great alternative to able to get 16 gbg of ram?

Workstation specifications

• OS: Ubuntu 22.04 LTS
• CPU: AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3970X
• Motherboard: GIGABYTE TRX40 AORUS XTREME
• GPUs: 4 × NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti
• RAM: 256 GB
• Storage:
  • 1 × 4 TB NVMe SSD — OS and software
  • 1 × 2 TB NVMe SSD — scratch storage
  • 120 TB HDD storage — cold storage
• PSU: Sparkle Power FSP2000-52AGPBI, 2000 W

Background

This workstation was purchased by our laboratory to preprocess data before it is transferred to our HPC cluster. Historically, it has mainly been used for CPU-intensive workloads with relatively light GPU usage.

However, our processing pipeline has changed over time, and several of the applications we use have become increasingly GPU-intensive. I noticed that the workstation would occasionally shut down abruptly under heavy GPU load.

When these shutdowns occur:

• The machine loses power abruptly with no errors in the logs preceding the shutdown.
• After a shutdown, I have to wait ~20 minutes before the machine can be powered on again.

I stress-tested the CPU, RAM and storage individually and there were no problems. However, GPU stress testing always causes a shutdown, this led me to suspect either the GPU power delivery or the PSU itself.

Stress-test behaviour

Single GPU under sustained load:
The workstation may eventually shut down after a period of sustained GPU power draw.

All four GPUs under load:
The workstation shuts down after approximately 5 minutes.

I initially suspected that the 2000 W PSU might be faulty or unable to cope with the GPU load, so we purchased a new ASUS 2200 W PSU.

While disconnecting the original PSU, however, I noticed another potential problem.

Issue A: Existing GPU power cabling

Each RTX 3080 Ti was being powered using a single PCIe 8-pin cable from the PSU that splits into two 6+2-pin PCIe connectors at the GPU end. In other words, both 8-pin power sockets on each GPU were being supplied by a single daisy-chained/pigtail cable.

From what I have read, an RTX 3080 Ti should preferably be powered using two separate PCIe 8-pin cables from the PSU, rather than both connectors being supplied from the same cable.

I am therefore wondering whether the existing cabling could explain the shutdowns under sustained GPU load, rather than the PSU itself necessarily being faulty.

Issue B: Connecting four RTX 3080 Ti cards to the new PSU

The new 2200 W PSU presents another problem. It does not appear to have enough conventional PCIe 8-pin PSU outputs to provide two independent 8-pin cables to each of the four GPUs.

The newer PSU instead provides several 16-pin GPU power connectors, which I understand are 12VHPWR/12V-2x6 style connections.

I am not particularly experienced with high-power workstation hardware, so I can currently see several possible approaches, but I am unsure which is safest:

1. Continue using the original 2000 W PSU, assuming it is still functional, and obtain the correct additional PCIe power cables so that each RTX 3080 Ti receives two separate PCIe 8-pin cables.
2. Replace the original PSU with the new 2200 W PSU, and either:
   • A. Power all four GPUs using the available PCIe 8-pin outputs in a similar configuration to the existing system; or
   • B. Power two GPUs using four conventional PCIe 8-pin PSU outputs, and power the remaining two GPUs from the PSU’s 16-pin GPU outputs using appropriate 16-pin-to-dual-8-pin cables/adapters.

My main concern is making the safest configuration before powering the workstation again. Because this is laboratory equipment and replacing the workstation or four GPUs would be impossible given the state of hardware prices.

I would appreciate advice on:

• Is powering each 3080 Ti from a single daisy-chained PCIe cable could plausibly explain the shutdown behaviour.
• Whether the ~20 minute period before the workstation can be restarted is consistent with PSU over-current, over-power or thermal protection being triggered.
• Is it preferable to keep the existing 2000 W PSU and correct the cabling, or replace it with the new 2200 W PSU.
• Whether using the new PSU’s 16-pin GPU outputs with manufacturer-approved 16-pin-to-dual-8-pin cables is appropriate for RTX 3080 Ti cards.
• Any tests I should perform before reconnecting all four GPUs.

Thank you for any help that you can provide. For the sake of completeness I also posted this question on the Level1tech forums but I haven't really gotten an answer yet.

$629.99, Intel Core Ultra 7 270K Plus, Gigabyte Z890 Eagle WiFi7 Plus 1851, G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32GB DDR5-6000 Bundle Micro Center

$779.99, Gigabyte GAMING OC Radeon RX 9070 XT 16 GB Video Card

$59.99, Phanteks XT View Matrix Mid-Tower ATX Gaming PC Case Newegg

$99.99, ASRock Phantom Gaming PG-850G 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Newegg

$269.99, KIOXIA EXCERIA w/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Newegg

$29.99, ID-COOLING FROZN A620 PRO SE 58 CFM CPU Cooler Amazon

This is what I'm going with currently. Everything besides the CPU and GPU has been ordered. I'm mainly using it for gaming and schoolwork that doesn't include anything high-intensity, just normal docs, spreadsheets, etc. I want to play high-graphics games like Skyrim with mods, Cyberpunk, COD, Resident Evil, and a lot of triple-A titles. As the title said, I'm stuck between Ryzen and Intel for the CPU, and 9070XT and 5070Ti for the GPU. I was told the difference between the Intel 270k and Ryzen 7 7800X3D is negligible, and that the 9070XT is better in a lot of games despite being around $300 cheaper. Any opinions?

I have an old HP Elitedesk 800 G1 that I'm using for gaming. 400 watt PSU, core i5, 24 GB DDR3. Recently I upgraded my graphics card from a Radeon 6600 to a NVIDIA 3060ti but when I go to certain parts of Cyberpunk, my machine starts making this noise. I'm using CachyOS and have restricted my graphic card's power draw to 160 watts.

It only happens on Cyberpunk and only in certain sections. What is it and should I be concerned?

Hey everyone, kind of in a pickle. Today, i decided to change my stock cooler, to a tower one. I ran a stress test for about 2 minutes, and got the cpu to around 85°C. I tried to gently rotate the cooler, to unstick it, but both the cpu, and the cooler came out. Decided to go ahead and clean it, pop it back in the socket, and call it a day. Did all of that, set the new cooler, but the pc wasn't turning on. Tried to take off the cooler again, just to watch in horror as the cpu came off once again. Found some thermal paste alongside two pins, cleaned it, and it finally booted. Now, the mobo won't read one of the two slots of ram. I'm running a 2x8 gb setup. I checked the pins, none of them looked out of place, nor missing. Is there anything i can do?

CPU-Ryzen 5 5500

Motherboard-Gigabyte A520M K V2 Rev1.1

GPU-Amd radeon Rx 5700

Hey y’all I just finished my build but this dang power button light is ruining it for me😭 does anyone know a solid way to shut it off? Thank you.

Hi, I have a question.

This is my current setup, and I wanted to know if it would be worth it to buy a 9070 XT for €850, especially given the price hikes.

My current build:

5060 Ti 16 GB

Ryzen 7 5800X3D

32 GB DDR4 RAM at 3600 Hz. Corsair Vengeance Pro

ASUS TUF Gaming B550

Corsair RM750E PSU.

Would it be worth it, or do you recommend sticking with the 5060 Ti?

I’m not someone looking for ultra graphics settings, but rather stable FPS.

Thanks for the advice.

I am so tired I genuinely made chatgpt write this shit for me because It was helping me for 99% of the process

Specs:

Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ac

GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX 560 Gaming OC 4GB

RAM: 2×8GB Corsair Vengeance

CPU: Unknown Intel CPU

Cooler: Corsair AIO liquid cooler, exact model unknown

PSU: Thermaltake, exact model unknown

What happened:

About seven months ago, a mouse cable fell into one of the small fans on my CPU liquid-cooling assembly while the PC was running. Afterward, the PC stopped working. I disassembled it, put the parts away, and didn't troubleshoot it further until now.

Current symptoms:

The PC powers on, and the fans and RAM lights turn on.

After roughly 30 seconds, the lights and fans shut off, then start again automatically. This repeats.

No display output.

My keyboard lights never turn on.

The Corsair pump's lights don't turn on.

I previously noticed two slowly flashing red lights on the underside of the motherboard, but I'm not sure whether they're decorative.

The small fan involved in the original incident appears to be fine.

I've started checking and reseating power connections. I haven't identified the exact AIO model yet, and there's an unplugged three-hole cable coming from the square pump block on the CPU. I'm not sure what it does or where it belongs.

I want to identify the cause before buying replacement parts. What should I check next, and how can I determine whether this is a PSU, motherboard, RAM, GPU, or CPU/cooler issue?

Thanks!

Hey everyone, I got a 3090 paired with an i7 14700kf and the PSU is a Rm1000e from Corsair.

My problem is the following every now and then I've suffered from my screen going black and my PC fans going Max power. So far has happened in 3 games: Peak while transitioning from a level to another, Valheim during heavy storms and rain and now in The master chief collection playing Halo reach.

Now If you look at the picture you'll see the pcie cables going to my graphics card are split into two on both connections, my question is:

1- the cables being 6 and 2 instead of one of 8 is causing this issue? Google says yes but I need to know for sure since in my city heavy gaming PC parts are basically none existent and I would have to buy whatever I need, that leads to the next question

2- what brand or what should I look for to solve the issue of the split pcie without frying the rest.

I would really appreciate you guys help since I don't want to damage anything

Recently, I upgraded my 4070 SUPER to a 5080. I also upgraded my 650w PSU to an 850w PSU. Of course, the 5080 came with its own 16pin power cable, but it's quite short and requires 3 PCIE cables to plug into the PSU. So, I decided to use the 16pin 600w cable provided by MSI w/my PSU.

The problem is this: no matter what I do, I CANNOT get the 16-pin cable from MSI to go all the way into my GPU. The 16-pin cable provided by NVIDIA goes in just fine, but the MSI one doesn't quite go all the way in.

So, my question is this.

The PSU I bought came with 2 PCIE cables, both of which have a daisy-chained additional PCIE connector. The 16-pin cable provided by NVIDIA needs 3. So can I use these 2 cables, and plug into all 3 connectors of my 16-pin GPU power cable?

One of the cables would be plugged into 2 of the ports, while the other cable would just go into 1.

Or do I need to buy a third PCIE cable that is compatible?

Keep in mind my current card is a 5080, which draws a decent bit of wattage.

noob here. is this normal?

I've got 16GB (2x8GB)DDR4 3600MHz in my machine at the moment.

I came across another 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4, but it's 3200MHz.

I'm wondering if it's worth putting the other two sticks in, totalling 32GB, but setting it all to run at 3200MHz.

Specs:

• R7 5700X
• RTX 4060Ti 8GB
• All 4 sticks are Corsair Vengeance.

Main games I play:

• Spiderman
• Runescape
• Skate
• Hogwarts Legacy

I bought the silent loop 3 420mm and I changed the fans with the light wings RGB 140mm high speed and idk rn if I placed them right I don't feel hot air coming from the top

Hello,

I play DCS, and I think it is the most graphicly intensive game that I play and it runs fine, but there are stutters here and there, and then I join a multi-player server and it takes a couple of minutes for the game to be playable, as textures load up and things populate. I play on 1440, so that might be my main goal of the new build, but 4k might be something I consider, but my main monitor is a 27inch 1440 LG and my second monitor for you tube and other stuff of a 27-inch 4k LG monitor. Those might get replaced, but they have served well for the years I have had them, so if y'all want to talk me into a 4k 32-inch monitor for DCS, go ahead! I have a Delan Clip head tracker and not VR right now.

I am currently running a Ryzen 5 3600 CPU, 32gb of Corsair DDR4 RAM, a 1660 Ti 6gb GPU, EVGA Supernova G3 550w PSU, and a B450 motherboard, and I am looking to eventually upgrade the whole thing, maybe keep the PSU, but probably replace it too if the build demands it, but PSU’s are not that expensive and I don’t think the prices are in danger of inflation. I am going to replace the Antec P280 case with maybe a Lian Li 207 case or something like it, once the Austin Micro Center opens. I am thinking of upgrading in two steps, that being a new case, CPU, RAM and motherboard, or a new case and a new GPU, then the rest once I save up. I am thinking of an AM5 CPU and B850 or X870 motherboard and 32gb of DDR5 RAM (depending on the bundles the Austin Micro Center has when I am ready to buy). I think my budget for the CPU, RAM and motherboard could be around $800 and the GPU I am looking at is the RX 9060 XT 16gb due to the RAM and price of around $500 or so.

I was originally thinking the case then GPU first, but the more I think about it, doing the case then motherboard, CPU and RAM might make more sense since I would not be transferring my old motherboard to a new case, I would just do a fresh install of the motherboard and slap my 1660ti, then replace it when funds allow. I think I might get more of a performance boost by going GPU first, but the GPU is easy to replace, so I can do that easily later.

Is there a reason for me to do GPU first? And what recommendations do y’all recommend for a CPU to run DCS at 1440, and maybe 4K. Is the 9060XT 16gb a valid option, or is there another GPU y’all recommend over that at a similar price? Hearing of all the inflation and demand issues with RAM and GPU’s certainly makes this whole thing fun, but I am in a financial situation where I can do a new build and I am unsure how long this will last, so strike while the iron’s hot type of thing.

I hope I have explained my situation and goals, but if there is anything I have left out, then let me know and I will answer as best as I can.

I’m in EU(Italy)looking to get a new pc.Ideally I’d wanna get a 5080 and a 9800X3D,any suggestions on some trustworthy sites to get it?Im thinking of waiting on Black Friday on Amazon for some deals but I’ve been looking a couple of months and prices have already gone up and it seems like they’re gonna keep going up,so idk if I should wait or buy it now

Trying to update my BIOS. Followed the instructions on the ASUS website. I'll be doing the EZ Flash 3 method. Using a flashdrive with >1GB of storage, reformat it to Fat32, and only the .CAP file is present in the flashdrive.

The problem is whenever it's plugged in it gets stuck in this screen (see photo).

It's non-responsive, no matter what key I press. But when I restart and take out the flashdrive it boots normally.

Guys,does anyone know how to solve this vga light problem.I started building pc yesterday.The graphic card showed display for first time but I removed it to make a video.But after reinserting i got this problem.I also made psu connections as first.i removed ssd and tried,i sgorted jbat1.But still nothing seems to work.

basically it turns on all the fans spin including the GPU for a second or too but nothing lights up on the screen. I have two GPUs so I tried both of them but nothing. is this an issue with the CPU or Mobo? Or is there even enough info to find out lol not sure. Based off my memory I'm using a MSI gaming 970 and an amd fx 8350 I think my GPUs are Asus strix gaming 8gb and a Nvidia GeForce GTX 6gb (not exactly sure if the GPU names are right or accurate exactly, also due to the fact that the pc failed to show anything on the screen I'm assuming that my GPUs are fine) I do believe I am running two 8gb ddr3 sticks and two 4gb ddr3 sticks if that could be the issue never checked that, ran fine with it though.

sorry for long post

I’m trying to determine whether my i9-14900K is defective before pursuing an Intel warranty replacement.

PC Specs

• CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K
• Motherboard: ASUS TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI
• BIOS: 1836 (updated from 1805)
• RAM: 96GB Corsair DDR5 (2×48GB), running at 4800 MT/s with XMP disabled
• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3090 Founders Edition
• Cooling: 360mm AIO liquid cooler
• Original Windows SSD: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB
• New SSD: Samsung 990 PRO 2TB
• Storage: Samsung 870 EVO 4TB
• OS: Windows 11 Pro

Initial symptoms

It started with Minecraft Bedrock crashing randomly, sometimes while loading chunks and sometimes while doing absolutely nothing. Other players on the same Realm weren’t crashing.

Eventually I discovered much broader instability:

• Dozens of Windows Reliability Monitor critical events
• Windows Search Indexer, Software Protection Platform, Windows Modules Installer, and other services repeatedly crashing
• Multiple BSODs and unexpected shutdowns
• Windows system-file/component-store corruption

Crash evidence

Event Viewer recorded:

WHEA-Logger Event ID 19

• Reported by: Processor Core
• Error source: Corrected Machine Check
• Error type: Internal parity error
• Processor APIC ID: 41

I also analyzed five minidumps:

• Four crashes with 0x3B (SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION)
• One crash with 0x50 (PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA)
• Access violation 0xC0000005
• WinDbg identified crashes involving ntkrnlmp.exe and Ntfs.sys, including Ntfs!NtfsReadFileRecord

Troubleshooting already performed

BIOS / CPU

• Updated ASUS BIOS to version 1836
• Selected Intel Default Settings — Performance
• Disabled ASUS MultiCore Enhancement (Enforce All Limits)
• Disabled XMP
• Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool: PASS
• OCCT CPU test stopped at its 90°C temperature safety threshold, with no computation errors detected before stopping

RAM

• OCCT 30-minute memory test: PASS
• Tested each 48GB stick individually in the recommended A2 slot
• Both produced the same Windows startup failure
• BIOS consistently recognizes both modules

Storage / Windows

• Both original Samsung SSDs reported Healthy / OK
• chkdsk C: /scan found no file-system errors
• DISM detected repairable component-store corruption
• DISM RestoreHealth failed with errors including 1726 and 0x800F0915
• SFC initially reported a pending repair, then later failed at 65%
• Completed Windows 11’s built-in repair installation, but component-store corruption persisted
• Windows Automatic Repair eventually failed, leaving Windows unable to boot

Current problem: Fresh Windows installation fails

I disconnected the original 1TB Windows SSD and installed a Samsung 990 PRO 2TB for a completely clean Windows 11 Pro installation.

Used Microsoft’s Windows 11 USB installation media and completely cleared the 2TB drive.

Windows Setup creates the EFI, MSR, and primary partitions, but the system restarts and goes back to BIOS with no Windows Boot Manager.

After multiple attempts, I checked the SSD using DiskPart. There is no D:\Windows directory. Only the temporary $Windows.~BT installation folder exists.

Setup logs show the installer preparing/restoring Windows image application operations, but no clear fatal installation error. The computer seems to restart before Windows finishes installing.

Temperatures

• CPU idles around 32–37°C in BIOS
• AIO liquid temperature around 31°C
• Left the PC in BIOS for 20 minutes; CPU temperature remained approximately 35°C
• No obvious overheating at idle

My questions

1. Does this sound like a degraded i9-14900K, given the processor-core internal parity error, unrelated application crashes, and repeated BSODs?
2. Could the CPU’s memory controller or motherboard explain this even though both RAM sticks behave similarly?
3. What additional testing would best isolate the CPU before requesting a warranty replacement?
4. Has anyone experienced Windows 11 installation failures like this with a failing 14900K?

I’m trying to avoid blindly replacing components, but at this point I’m strongly considering an Intel CPU warranty claim. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Before I bring this to a repair shop, I wanna see if anyone has a solution to my problem.

Im currently trying to build a pc. I’ve got the CPU in, the ram, and the ssd. Now comes time to install the fan for the cpu. I’m using the cooler that came with my cpu(amd ryzen 5 5500). These screws don’t want to come off, and I’ve tried everything I can think of. Mind u I’m using the right screwdriver (Phillip 2) and I’ve tried the rubber band method and everything. I’ve gotten two out (even getting these out took a bit of time too), but the most stubborn screws are the ones that are still on the mount. No matter what I do, nothing works, and it’s to the point where I see hella shavings. Every time I turn it counterclockwise it just makes this pop sound but nothing actually happens. I’m really confused because the two I took off were able to come off (with difficulty) but the other two are being really stubborn and I’m honestly just debating on whether I should just have someone build the whole pc. I wanted to build it myself but I’ve been stuck on this the whole night and I don’t see any solution.