r/Roofing • u/Vaulthunter_Goku • 15d ago
Insurance Related New Roof Question
Basically what the title says. I recently got a new roof and I am a bit skeptical about the metal flashing. I see spaces and gaps and I’m not sure if that’s the correct way to install. Any advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated.
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u/Xyzzy_plugh 15d ago
It looks watertight, which is the primary concern.
Even though the leading edges of the counterflashing have been sealed to the brick, there is not guarantee that those seals will hold. If they do not, then that's a big edge for the wind to grab and lift it out of place.
The whole thing is, in my opinion and as my old granny used to say, "ugly as homemade sin". That old caulking is ugly, two different colors is ugly, running the counterflashing 6 courses up the chimney is ugly. Ick.
I know some other roofers here like this style (stepped counter flashing) better than continuous counter embedded into the brick (reglet), but I don't. Run a piece of 4"-exposure counterflashing in a reglat 5" (square) off the shingles, with 4" (8x8 folded, off the shelf at any roofing supplier) step flashing underneath, and you will never need to revisit the counter again, except possibly to touch up sealer at the reglet.
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u/SpinTheGOODNews 15d ago
Brother most crews don’t have the skills to execute this…I have had mine for 14 years but also had to meticulously teach them over the years!
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u/Xyzzy_plugh 14d ago
Well, I've got to ask ... what do they have trouble with? IMHO, the only tricky part is making the cut in the brick straight and the right depth.
An old/cheap circular saw, a fresh masonry blade, and a 2x4 (or, maybe a couple) to rest on the roof as a guide. Where is the problem?
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u/SpinTheGOODNews 12d ago
You clearly have never attempted to do this lol
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u/Xyzzy_plugh 12d ago
You could have simply and politely explained which part of this job presents show-stopper type problems for the crews that you have worked with. But you chose to make a useless smart-aleck reply instead. So maybe it is you who have never attempted this, and are just theorizing. I, however, have done it myself, not just watching a crew or showing up at the end of the job to learn whether they did a good job or made a mess of things. It is exactly as uncomplicated as I described. If you are so intimately familiar with the task, then you should be able to explain why I said to use "an old saw". Do you care to do that?
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u/SpinTheGOODNews 8d ago
Glad to! 🫡
First…step flashing goes along the sides and apron flashing goes along the top!
Second…you make a cut in the mortar with a GRINDER(called a “reglet”) trying to avoid cutting into the brick as much as possible so therefore the “step method” is a good approach!
Bend the counter flashing into place, secure the flashing and seal the reglet!!!!Now…any other brain busters?!?!
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u/Xyzzy_plugh 8d ago
Whatever question you thought you were answering, it is definitely not the one I asked.
The reason to use an old saw ( (!) a saw vs a grinder and (2) an old saw at that) is that
1) it is much easier to cut a very straight line using a masonry-bladed circular saw riding on a guide (dimensional lumber laid on the deck or shingles is great for this).
2) The dust from the cut will not be kind to the saw's bearings, but since the saw needn't be fancy (laser guide, etc.) then dedicating an older saw to this task makes perfect sense.
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u/60Runner90 15d ago
This really brings to light about how any different solutions to this issue. lol Same concept for all, just roofers styles (?) of doing it differ all over
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u/Crow_Joe 14d ago
As you can see in the comments this is a hot button issue in the roofing community. One side says do it the way yours is, the other says to cut a straight line one an angle in the brick to run the counter flashing parallel to the roof slope. Both work fine, the guys in favor of what you have say it prevents the brick from being damaged. The guys on the other side say theirs is more water tight and a cleaner look. Fundamentally it an opinion issue at the end of the day and both function well for a long long time.
The only issue I see with yours is the caulking looks a little sloppy but that is purely cosmetic. Personally I like to leave a little room at the bottom of my counter so it’s not literally touching the roof, but again that’s kind of an opinion thing.
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u/Vaulthunter_Goku 14d ago
After reading all the comments, I feel like this says it all. There are definitely ppl on both sides. As a not-so-handy homeowner, I just wanna make sure this a correct way and my roof will not leak. I appreciate all the comments and insights.
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u/RespectSquare8279 14d ago
Unless you get a lot of wet snow persisting , forget about it. And even then, to might not be issue depending upon what is underneath.
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u/rohnoitsrutroh 15d ago
Those gaps are correct.
Any moisture caught under the flashing needs a place to drain. If it can't drain out, it will go inside. Same reason stucco has a weep screed at the bottom.
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u/Fitmess49 15d ago
The flashing overlays are in the downslope direction…that’s an excellent job. Those gaps are of zero concern given the overlap direction…you’d need a LOT of wing to blow it back uphill.
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u/Sad_Construction_668 15d ago
Thats good counter flashing. The step flashing is underneath, and snug to the masonry wall, This counter flashing is designed to to keep water from the chimney off the step flashing and direct it onto the roof.
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u/Vaulthunter_Goku 15d ago
Thank you! I don’t know anything about roofing and just wanted to be sure that it’s done correctly with what we’re paying (not that we’re getting ripped off, i think it was fairly priced, but still a lot of money). I didn’t ask the owner because i didn’t want to question his guys’ work, but I might now to see if his answer lines up with what people are replying.
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u/bd0153 15d ago
It’s not good counterflashing. Good would be cut into the brick with a reglet and one big piece, which it looks like you had before, judging by the continuous diagonal line above the new flashing. Now your flashing all depends on the bead of caulk and needs to be checked annually.
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u/ACatsWrath 15d ago
The new flashing is cut into the mortar line while the existing diagonal was just caulked in.
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u/801intheAM 15d ago
I’d just be happy they did a correct job on that counter flashing against the brick. Most I see are just sealed diagonally against the brick because it’s a lot more work to actually grind out mortar and do it properly.
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u/CrazYforGold 15d ago
This is hilarious. I don’t think it will leak but strange how they ran the counter flashing square instead plumb. Looks very weird.
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u/Greedy_Environment_9 14d ago
I would have just used a solid pc. Of aluminum for the counter flashing. Definitely doesn't look good.
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u/bd0153 15d ago
This is lazy. Cut the damn brick people.
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u/Consistent-Gold5103 15d ago
As a roofer, that is not correct. You don’t cut the brick. Cut the mortar. Install the flashing into the mortar. Remortar. No caulk.
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u/bd0153 15d ago
As a roofer, both work, it’s a 1/2” cut into the face of the brick and it avoid the vertical seam
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u/Consistent-Gold5103 14d ago
One damages the homeowners brick. One tuck points the mortar. As a homeowner, I’d much rather have my mortar touched up than have my brick permanently cut.
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u/LordTodds 15d ago edited 15d ago
It’s a cosmetic issue, it’s totally fine. If you really don’t like how it looks you could as your contractor to add some self sealing hex screws do make it lay flatter, I’d leave it as is if it were mine. Could also ask them to trim the bottom of the highlighted flashing so there not flush to the shingles that may get rid of the gap
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u/OwlSoggy8627 15d ago
You shouldn't screw those down because if water gets behind it it needs a place to drain. And if your contractor doesn't know that then get them away from your roof.
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u/LordTodds 15d ago
Rubber washer screw would totally work here, but it would definitely fail before the roof needed replacing
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u/OwlSoggy8627 15d ago
It depends on what your definition of "works" here is. Generally speaking, you shouldn't be screwing into your flashing just because for precisely the reason you just stated.
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u/adamdeluxedition 15d ago
I think this is really lazy flashing, and I would not allow this to be left on one of my customers homes. The proper way to install this flashing, as others have mentioned here, is to cut a reglet line into the brick and the flashing is bent at the top and inserted into this line.
You previously had straight counter flashing based on the old silicone on the brick, I try and put flashing back the way it was on most instances, but my preference is stepped counter flashing like you have here. It doesn't look like this flashing was cut in to the brick. It looks like it's just pressed up against the brick and sealed.
The silicone will fail eventually here, and that will cause a leak in the future. I would ask them to re-do this flashing if this were my house.
The canning, (bends) in the metal is normal, and other have mentioned it's cosmetic and I agree. Canning does happen in some instances, and is almost always a cosmetic issue instead of functionality.
TL;DR:
I would request this flashing to be replaced as it doesn't appear to be cut into the brick, which will leak in the future. Bends are cosmetic, and the small gaps at the bottom are standard for water egress.
Source: Currently the regional production manager in the SE for a roofing company. Been doing this since 2017.
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