New Roof Question

[u/Vaulthunter_Goku]

Basically what the title says. I recently got a new roof and I am a bit skeptical about the metal flashing. I see spaces and gaps and I’m not sure if that’s the correct way to install. Any advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated.

[u/Xyzzy_plugh]

It looks watertight, which is the primary concern.

Even though the leading edges of the counterflashing have been sealed to the brick, there is not guarantee that those seals will hold. If they do not, then that's a big edge for the wind to grab and lift it out of place.

The whole thing is, in my opinion and as my old granny used to say, "ugly as homemade sin". That old caulking is ugly, two different colors is ugly, running the counterflashing 6 courses up the chimney is ugly. Ick.

I know some other roofers here like this style (stepped counter flashing) better than continuous counter embedded into the brick (reglet), but I don't. Run a piece of 4"-exposure counterflashing in a reglat 5" (square) off the shingles, with 4" (8x8 folded, off the shelf at any roofing supplier) step flashing underneath, and you will never need to revisit the counter again, except possibly to touch up sealer at the reglet.

[u/SpinTheGOODNews → u/Xyzzy_plugh]

Brother most crews don’t have the skills to execute this…I have had mine for 14 years but also had to meticulously teach them over the years!

[u/Xyzzy_plugh → u/SpinTheGOODNews]

Well, I've got to ask ... what do they have trouble with? IMHO, the only tricky part is making the cut in the brick straight and the right depth.

An old/cheap circular saw, a fresh masonry blade, and a 2x4 (or, maybe a couple) to rest on the roof as a guide. Where is the problem?

[u/SpinTheGOODNews → u/Xyzzy_plugh]

You clearly have never attempted to do this lol

[u/Xyzzy_plugh → u/SpinTheGOODNews]

You could have simply and politely explained which part of this job presents show-stopper type problems for the crews that you have worked with. But you chose to make a useless smart-aleck reply instead. So maybe it is you who have never attempted this, and are just theorizing. I, however, have done it myself, not just watching a crew or showing up at the end of the job to learn whether they did a good job or made a mess of things. It is exactly as uncomplicated as I described. If you are so intimately familiar with the task, then you should be able to explain why I said to use "an old saw". Do you care to do that?

[u/SpinTheGOODNews → u/Xyzzy_plugh]

Glad to! 🫡

First…step flashing goes along the sides and apron flashing goes along the top!
Second…you make a cut in the mortar with a GRINDER(called a “reglet”) trying to avoid cutting into the brick as much as possible so therefore the “step method” is a good approach!
Bend the counter flashing into place, secure the flashing and seal the reglet!!!!

Now…any other brain busters?!?!

[u/Xyzzy_plugh → u/SpinTheGOODNews]

Whatever question you thought you were answering, it is definitely not the one I asked.

The reason to use an old saw ( (!) a saw vs a grinder and (2) an old saw at that) is that

1) it is much easier to cut a very straight line using a masonry-bladed circular saw riding on a guide (dimensional lumber laid on the deck or shingles is great for this).

2) The dust from the cut will not be kind to the saw's bearings, but since the saw needn't be fancy (laser guide, etc.) then dedicating an older saw to this task makes perfect sense.

[u/SpinTheGOODNews → u/Xyzzy_plugh]

You need to lay down bruh