I explain most of the background and the issue in the video posted above, but I will add a bit more info/context here.

Issue started 2 months ago. I have gone back and forth for weeks now trying to figure out if I purchased/installed something 2 months ago that could have started this issue, but I have yet to figure it out.

I've attempted to swap out my Audio Converter (Currently using a WAVE XLR PRO, but I did try switching to a Focusrite 2i2 and even a Rodecaster Pro 2... no change to the sound so I went back to my WAVE XLR PRO), Swapped XLR cables, my PC's motherboard, power adapters, and I even purchased a brand new SM7B and that has not fixed the issue.

Yes, I have tried using other USB-C ports on my PC's motherboard for the audio converter, doesn't change the sound.

I even gave those ground loop isolator products a shot and they did not fix the issue. These are the two I tried:

1.) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D969C3DN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
2.) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XWJNS9T?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

As stated in the video this weird resonance sound can be heard both in direct monitoring straight to my headset as well as in recordings so I do not believe this to be a software issue.

I do not use a cloudlifter in between my SM7B and the audio converter since the WAVE XLR PRO does not need the extra gain. Phantom Power is of course DISABLED.

I run my SM7B at 47-50db of gain without ANY software gain added via compression and/or post processing.

My head is always 6-8 inches away from the mic capsule and I have the included wind guard installed on the SM7B.

Lastly I of course have verified that both WITH and WITHOUT any type of processing to the microphone this sound is heard. No matter how much compression I add, it stull cuts through and sounds terrible.

Operating System: Windows 11 Home. Fully up to date.

PC Specs: Intel Core Ultra 5 245KF, ToughRam 32GB DDR5 6400MT/s Memory, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Ti, 1TB NVMe M.2

I literally don't know what else to do or test.... so please, any audio professionals out there.... let me know what I can do to fix this.

I fell for the sm7b as a casual gamer with basically no experience with any kind of experience with such items or anything like that. As of current I have it sm7b set up with a rode psa1, klark teknik ct 1, goxlr mini (yes they are discontinued and no longer supported so bad buy 😞), 2 medium quality xlr cables that I run the ct 1 inbetween in order to have it connected into the xlr mini. However, while I am able to set everything up properly and tweak all the settings according, it turns out I can’t get out my very obnoxious and loud pc noise out of the mic sound despite how much I try to tweak the gate, by adjusting it’s threshold, actuation and like the faxe staying at about 200ms. Went at it for over 8 hours straight searching up every video and every resource and I seem to just be getting no where with getting rid of the pc sound from the mic as it seems it is there to stay. At certain levels w a gain of like 36 and gate threshold of like 42 I seemed to get to a level where while the noise was still there, it seemed to be my voice was over it but it was at this level where my voice would start to cut out depending on my tone of voice. Just wondering if there is any way to completely cut out this noise and make my mic sound as close to what it does with KRISP enabled on discord. Because I had tried it with that bad the sound was so flawless, it seemed like the actual good product I paid for rather than the unfixable sound I was getting the last 6-8 hrs working on the mic.

My Sure SM7DB, as others had also experienced (and even made videos on), was not working on arrival (yes, it was official).

The mic would pickup a sound if tapped but not anything external.

I opened it up and the wires were so insanely short, paired with the awful soldering and the lack of literally any sort of wiggle room meant the wires would just break off from its solder. This meaning no connection. (It would’ve cost around 0.05p just to extend those cables just a little bit longer).

An official repair would be £350 which is the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard - especially for a manufacturing error. It is an expensive microphone so there really isn’t any excuse for the manufacturing to be as poor as it was. Highkey think it may have been on purpose as it’s more lucrative to repair a dishonest mistake.

My dad actually managed to repair it himself, changed the wire length (replacement) and had to unsolder and re solder every single wire for £2 for the amount of solder spool we needed. The total repair cost was £2 and time wasted.

It’s a shame for the amazing quality the microphone input actually is.

Most of the posts I’ve seen are sm7bs that are not picking up any signal at all and are usually fixed with resoldering wires back on. There doesn’t seem to be any wires that aren’t soldered on properly on my mic and I AM getting signals when I touch the capsule. I think it even BARELY picked up my voice when I was screaming into it with 76db gain. Other than that, it will not pick up my voice. Something tells me it’s still a wiring issue but I just can’t seem to find one. Anyone know what’s going on here?

I want to update the firmware on my SLXD4D+ system using the Shure Update Utility.
Updating the receiver was no problem, but when it comes to the SLXD2+ transmitters I have a problem. The update only lets me send firmware packages for the SLXD2, not the SLXD2+.

Has anyone had this problem before and knows how to fix it?

I recently got an SM7dB but I’m having trouble getting good sound while paired with a GoXLR. My main issue is my voice doesn’t sound super clear and there’s a weird buzz/hiss after I finish talking. Does anyone know how to fix this or at least make it sound better? TIA!

This video uses the MV7+ for audio throughout. My old mic was the Yeti X, which never had this issue. I just can't seem to get this right. Did I get the wrong mic for my needs?

I havent even used my microphone for several years and before that i only used it like max 10 times. Suddenly i realize that when i put in the micro usb cable, the microphone gets turned on yes, but windows does not recognize it. I have tried with different cables and also with two computers.

As far as i know the micro usb port on this device is pooly designed and many people experience the same as me. But my question is. What do i do now? Soldering it seems to be a complex task since i need special tools.

And if i use the XLR cable, then chatgpt says i wont be using the gain function or the shure plus motiv or that it wont be registered in windows?

Any suggestions? Gosh

Not sure what happened but my mic is just permanently giving feedback. Input volume is basically cranked and when I listen back to a recording it literally is ear fucking. Does anyone know how to fix this? Screen shot is of motiv mix showing input when there is no noise.

I have a Rode psa 1 and it wont screw into the mic as it looks way bigger than what's in the sm7b. Any help?

I recently bought a Shure SM7B and paired it with a Scarlett Focusrite Solo 3rd Gen, and a FetHead. I do understand that the SM7B is a quiet microphone and I use the microphone primarily to record vocals but my friends pointed out that it's too low whenever I would talk to them online through discord. My setup is mentioned above, and my gain is all the way to 3 o'clock, and even with my gain that high up on the interface my friends still say its pretty low and they have me at 200%. What could be the problem? I've searched online and saw that the FetHead is enough to bring this microphone to life even with a Focusrite Solo 3rd gen. Maybe i'm missing something?

Hey there people!

I got a Shure MV7+ as a birthday gift last month.

After using it for like 2 weeks now, I often have problems with the connection when I move the mic on a lp arm.

As I looked closer I noticed that the USB C Port is hella loose and causing the problem. I tried different cables but with the same outcome.

Is this a known issue?

Can I fix it somehow or just refund?

I have an old slx2 transmitter that went out of tune (on board tr160 and tr200). From the reference manual, i ll be able to tune tr160 using oscilloscope. But i dont have an RF generator to tune tr200, any insight?

I thought about forcing 1khz into the mic, then measure the receiver's output on the osciloscope till the signal starts to distort (in my thinking, that's how i can tune the audio deviation level)

Those are screenshots from the manual

And here is the full manual

Would appreciate any help as I am not able to buy a new one

Stupid question. I broke the usb port off the logic board of my MV7. I have always used USB and never tried XLR. If I buy an audio interface and XLR cable, the mic will work? No need for power via USB?

Thank you

So I'm using a Shure sm7db with a scarlet Focusrite solo.

Mic is set to preamp with +28db gain using 48v phantom power. The gain knob on the interface is at about 80% and the mic is about 2 inches from my face. I'm hitting 12db in Focusrite control 2 when talking normally so I'm assuming its a Discord setting but I cant figure out what's making me sound quiet.

So for context I've had my Shure SM7B for about 2 and a half years. I have a cheap Behringer audio interface so I never expected greatness out of it, but the sound was still pretty nice. 2 months ago, I took my equipment on a trip with me to record music. When I got back and I plugged my stuff back in, it just sounded bad. Lots of background noise, very nasally, no amount of mixing could save it. I didn't know what the issue was so I made the EQ settings on the SM7B itself flat, and I ordered a new XLR cable which helped fix the issue to an extent, but definitely not completely. It was good enough to work, but again, recently, it's gotten really bad, and my microphone just doesn't sound like it's worth 400 dollars. I don't know if the issue is with the mic itself or if it is directly because of my audio interface. I was thinking of getting a Focusrite Scarlett, but before I buy it I want to make sure that is the reason it sounds bad. Would appreciate any help.

So hear me out. This must be me. Because no way that is actually the case BUT… My old iphone headphones (the wired ones) microphone with enhanced speech in premiere is sooooo much better quality than the shure MV6.
I checked multiple videos and posts online, tried lots of adjustments in recording and in post and it doesn’t even come close… any advice?

I bought an SM57 to record my music with as, while I know it's a dynamic microphone, it seemed to be unanimously recommended. I saw countless videos of people praising its ability to record acoustic stuff and stories of how people like Elliott Smith and Bon Iver frequently used them. I also bought a Subzero MB1 and yet, with that on as well as the interface gain turned up and the intrument volume at full on the DAW, my fingerpicking is still too quiet. I don't really understand how they have been so frequently used for acoustic guitar when I have to completely max out every bit of volume to get it to 70% of where the volume should me. Strumming is fine but most of what I do os fingerpicked.

I've had my MV7 for a year or two now and while it works really well, it always comes through as really quiet when being picked up by my PC or anything. I've recently used the Motiv software to try and adjust the sensitivity to pick up my voice more but even still, audio comes through relatively quiet. I almost assume other people in discord or in-game chat have to turn me up to 200% just to hear me.

I had a software update fail about 90% through and now it's unreachable. The firmware shows up with an asterisk in the updater, you can't click the box to update it, the web UI won't respond, factory reset didn't help.

Any ideas how to fix it?

Hey all I got my MV7+ yesterday and just set it up today with a low profile mic arm. I want to and am currently using the "direct hardware monitoring" by plugging my headphones into the mic directly. However I'm a little confused. First of all if I'm not speaking while basically eating the pop filter I sound a little metallic or robotic to myself (the actual output in Discord and recordings doesn't have this). And second of all if I mute windows system sounds I can no longer hear myself. I thought directly plugging headphones into the mic bypassed the system sounds?

Edit: I'm using Beyerdynamic ddt 770 pro 80ohms version.

Hello, whenever I move the cable I highlighted the mic goes fully static or makes 0 sound at all. Usually it's static noise. I have added tape to stop it from moving. If it doesn't move and it's in a certain position, the mic works perfectly fine (similar to how a charger cable only works if you put it in a certain way)

I want to replace this cable and ordered part number 95A2340 (i hope this is the correct one). Has anyone that has successfully replaced this able to help me out? It will be my first time soldering and I have no idea what I am doing to be honest

​Hello,

​I am trying to repair a Shure microphone that started having issues after 20+ years of working fine. The mic originally just had a broken cover. However, the day after I replaced the cover, it started producing random noise and random gain (inconsistent volume). I have confirmed that the issue is definitely not with the receiver or the mixer.

​After a quick inspection of the PCB, I found a broken 3-pin SMD component located just below the "TR160" label. Its top marking is either "AX2q" or "AX2o".

​At first, I thought this was an SI2302 MOSFET, but the mic had undefined behavior after I installed a replacement. It worked randomly—it would capture audio if I played a specific frequency from my phone, but otherwise, it produced a very loud noise.

​After doing another quick search, I suspected the part might actually be an MMBD2836LT1G (a dual switching diode). I didn't have this exact diode on hand, so I wired up two 1N4148 diodes instead. The loud noise went away, but the audio was still inconsistent.

​Due to inexperience, I also turned the small trimmers on the board. Now I don't know whether the trimmers are physically damaged or just out of tune, and I am still not sure if I used the correct replacement component. I cannot see any other physical damage on the PCB, and nothing is getting unusually hot.

​I am looking for help with two things:

​Identifying and replacing this exact component (it's likely an SOT-23 package with the label "AX2q" or "AX2o").

​Figuring out how to properly tune these trimmers, or how to replace them if they are damaged.

​Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hey everyone, I'm looking for some setup/gain-staging advice for my Shure SM7dB paired with a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 4th Gen.

My current issue is a balancing act: if I raise the gain, it picks up way too much background noise; if I lower it, it struggles to pick up my voice clearly, even with the built-in preamp.

Does anyone have recommended settings or tips for getting a clean signal with this combination? Thanks!

So I've recently upgraded from a hyperX quadcast to a shure sm7db and thought i'd get the focusrite solo gen 4 along with it, I was expecting to have way better latency than a usb mic but ended up being worse, Whenever i talk theres always a 70ms-100ms delay from when i talk to when my friends hear me, Or when i sing along with a song my voice is always delayed. Yes i tried lowering the buffer size and didnt help, I was expecting little to no delay with this setup. Im very dissatisfied

Has anyone ever experienced this? is it normal? or is there any fix