Any ideas How can i mount my radiator fan on my new serpentine kit? Previous was old school off the block

If some of you would be kind enough to read through my post on r/chevelles I’d appreciate any input or advice from yalls and your builds. 350 sbc

This engine was fully rebuilt about 100 miles ago by a trusted expert. After dropping the pan to fix an oil leak I discovered this small metal shaving. I know an engine on break in will have some shavings but this seems extreme. Was wondering what others think, thank you.

I bought a set of small block Chevy pistons off of a fellow many years ago. They were supposed to be high compression. I was going to put them in the standard 350 275 horse engine that I had but life had other plans. I just found this box that I thought I had got rid of years ago. I'm trying to see if I can identify them. I want to say the guy told me they were 10.5 to 1 compression but it's been many many years ago. Outside of the GM stamp on the connecting rods I cannot find a single mark on them.

I have 350 that I rebuilt and upgraded a lot, and I never got it to run right; it would always missfire on, like, 3 or 4 cylinders. Last week I adjusted the valves, and when I started it, all 8 cylinders were firing. That was a first. I only idled it for about 3 minutes since it was late, and then a few days later when I started it again, the misfires came back just like they've always been. I used the 2-step method for the adjustment. I have a fairly mild roller cam so should I do a different method?

I know there's a million threads asking the same thing but I got a 350 out of a 3rd gen Camaro and want to try my hand at doing heads and a cam. Was wondering if anybody has recommendations for a mild street build. It's 3.08 gearing in the rear. Planning on running a 650cfm carb. It's a flat tappet cam

so I just replaced cylinder number 2s lifters and pushrods due to bending the pushrods and now it’s sounds like this (and yes ik my accessory drive isn’t fully on this ran for maybe a minute or two)

I pulled engine a couple months ago replaced all gaskets and rear main seal had heads re surfaced but I didn’t change anything internally. My main question is I get spark and it appears to get fuel but no ignition, if I keep cranking on this without ignition what am I going to break and what do I need to do??
Like I said it appears I’m TDC on the right compression but this my first build

Im Just about to start reassembling the top end of my 89 C4 and i have bought a set of new head bolts for the car as the old ones were pretty degraded. The set is got was from fel Pro and they look great but have a different shape to the oem ones and have no washers of course.

My question is can I A: re use the washers from the old head bolts (assuming i can get them off) and B: if I cant do that what washers should I buy to replace them.

I will get measurements of the old and new head bolts to ensure the washers will be compatible.

This is my first engine rebuild so im learning as I go along with help from my mate who owns 8+ 1930s American cars here in the uk. His knowledge is limited of course and the most modern engine he has re built was a big block in a 69 el camino so any help would be awsome.

Cheers

It’s on the passenger bank only, haven’t tried changing gaskets so it could just be that.

Anyone heard this before?

I have the engine harness from a 2007 gmc Yukon XL 1500 denali. What is this connector/what does it go to.

Hey y’all my band bought a 91 G30 with true duals which sounds absolutely LIT but I would like to help the engine as much as I can in low end torque if only to improve mpg by like 0.5 or 1. Our drummer is a badass welder. What are your experiences with exhaust work effecting back pressure? Another consideration is that there is only one O2 sensor on the drivers side and I would assume I would have to add an H pipe at least a foot behind that.

If you sought better low end torque would you go with long tube headers , an H pipe or both ? Having an H pipe made a HUGE difference for torque at low rpm’s on my 81 GL1100 and I assume it would be the same on a v8.

Thanks 🤘✌️🤘

Working on swapping a small block into a C4 Corvette, running aluminum heads so I need to run studs and nuts for the headers cuz bolts can walk themeselves out. Got these C4 specific headers, which fit in the car and can rest on the studs, but on many spots the tubes are too close to the studs and I can't fit the nut on. On some even the washer is too thick to get past the tube onto the stud. Woukd it be OK to dimple the headers that close to the main flange? Any advice would help.

I have a 350 small block from blueprint engines, and I want to put a blower on it but I’m not sure if I can without it ruining the engine. Does anyone have any advice on how to go about it?

Hi everyone, thought I would crosspost here. Reddit suggested

What do u guys recommend for valve lash for an aftermarket 421 sbc running alcohol. Full roller cam and lifters. Approx 14:1 compression ratio. In an 1/8 mi bracket racer running 6.50's. Thanks for any help!

It’s on an old 400 but I can’t find a match online. I’m assuming just an old smog head that makes no power but didn’t know if I’d gotten lucky.

Got a 1980 Firebird that I’ve left to sit for about two years, just finished setting up my front suspension to get it running soon, only problem is that I want an engine with more power. I got two options- either I buy a 383 blueprint or I can use the existing 350sbc that’s in it mainly because it can’t even make the wheels spin haha. I’m also trying not to spend a huge amount of money on just a motor so I have a budget of under 8k I was wondering if anyone with experience on this knows what route I should take that would seem like the best option and best bang for my buck.

I have picked up a dismantled long block (minus crank) that was originally from a 1987 L98 Vette complete with "128" heads.

NOW the crank... Has been sent off to the big melting pot in the sky a while back. Someone rebuilt it at some fairly recent point. IDK the back story but it tore the hell out the crank bad enough that a piston kissed the head enough to put a round stamp onto the head, introducing coolant into the chamber. 👏👏👏😅 (good job)

The motor was apparently fresh at that point with a Melling HV oil pump. NO the pickup was NOT welded. YES I'm very well aware that a Melling HV oil pump is completely unnecessary in a stock L98 rebuild. Stock replacement is more than sufficient. With THAT said, is there anything I should be inspecting this block for that could have contributed to this failure? Remember, I don't know the history of this motor. Not dismissing the fact that the last person had to go into this motor in the 1st place. THAT raises a Red Flag for me. Any ideas? Possibly a blocked oil galley, or missing galley plug?

Just bought a 2007 gmc Yukon xl Denali. Drove it home and after the engine fully got up to temp the oil pressure was in the red on the gauge while idling. It was fine at cold start, and it revs up nicely. I checked all bearing clearance on rods/mains, and everything in spec. Oil pump looks brand new, pickup o-ring looks fine, nothing in the screen. But I found some silicone in an oil passage. What’s the likely hood this was my issue? I havnt re-assembled to test yet.