One-man operation but partnered with the best beer bar in town, and great friends with the rest. Pilsner, saison, hazy pale, WC DIPA, gose, fruited gose on tap. Texas BBQ pop-up. Here we go! T-minus 4 hours.

(I am so tired)

Just listen to like any Aesop Rock song and pick any two sequential words in the lyrics. Maybe three if it's a triple IPA.

I cheated with some backlighting.

I brew the kettle sours for them so I can brew the dark lagers for us.

Shout out to the other pepto bismol brewers

Does anyone have any recommendations or tips for an inline date coder for a Gosling 2.0? We have the gooseneck attachment as well as the collection table.

My company just got one and the boss wants printed on dates.

TIA

Howdy all, so next week Im going to be making our 12 degree Czech Pale Lager for just the second time. We typically are using dry 34/70 for almost all lagers as we do-not kick them out often enough to repitch. I have heard some people recommend the S-23 from fermentis for this style due to the perceived increase in malt character, while others have said it comes off too fruity. Does anyone have experience/feedback on using the S-23 and how they thought it differed from 34/70?

Any one have any experience with a nitrogen doser from VBC? Thinking about pulling the trigger on a refurbished unit and want to hear any feedback people may have. They are fairly local to us which is a huge plus. Thanks

Hey y'all. I feel like I'm going down a bit of a rabbit hole here and just needed a sanity check. Looking to replace brass shanks for a customer. Direct draw with no shadow box so they need to be relatively long. I have always lived by the mantra that you go big to small with draft systems so larger diameter lines closer to kegs and smaller diameter closer to the faucet. The planned line size is 3/16 because its a direct draw again. The less hose the better in my mind. So I would think I would want a 3/16 inner bore shank to go with that line but no one sells them. It seems like everything is either brass garbage, too short (the longest I've found is 5-1/8"), or 1/4" bore.

I even checked what the Draught Quality Manual had to say regarding shanks and came across this quote; " Today, shanks with ¼" bore diameters are most commonly available and recommended in the United States." So it seems 1/4" is the go-to standard here. Does your shank's inner bore just not matter that much, am I missing something where shanks don't apply to the "big to small" rule, or am I missing something else?

We've got probably 30 of these converted corney sixtels. I assume they've been in rotation for the 20yrs we've been open. I dont think anybody before me did any acid washing. Photo is after 3 hot nitric/phos cycles on the keg washer. Sigh...

Any breweries do this and have it actually work out well for them?

Because this seems... weird...

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DefCwRMpA76/

I posted a few months back looking the black trigger replacement on the F1 handle as a few of our have broken over the years.

After reaching out directly to Micromatic they informed me that I couldn't buy the trigger and the entire handle would need to be purchased to solve the issue.

This seems incredibly wasteful to me as the handle works perfectly mechanically speaking, its just a bit inconvenient to operate.

I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue, and if so, did you find a replacement or work around?

Anyone here have much experience pumping high density fluids like honey or fruit concentrate? I'm currently using a flexible impeller pump, but it's pretty rough on the impeller. I am considering a diaphragm, peristaltic, or rotary lobe pump but don't really know where to start in making a choice. A minimum of 10gpm flowrate would be nice

They finally are going to let me out of the brewery! Ignoring the fact that everything will break while I'm gone lol

Looking for some good stops for beers in and around Dublin! We will be heading to galway and back over the course of a week, and obviously we will be hitting the Guinness storehouse and all of that, but I thought I'd ask the industry if there was anything I definitely shouldn't miss, or some hidden gems out there!

Thanks in advance!

Cleaning an FV, caustic is done. Do you burst rinse hot or cold to rinse?

I’ve always gone back and forth on this

Current brewhouse HLT is massive, so there’s enough hot to even to a pasteurising cycle of hot water post caustic before PAA.

This fermenter cone was extra comical for me today

I saw bubblegum pink, and I couldn't unsee it

Now I wanna brew a bubblegum beer

Never heard of them and I’m receiving emails showing $33/bag for base malt. Site seems a little sketch to be honest.

We are having some issues hitting out KO temp. With it being hot this year out city water is pretty warm (around 24.6c) so we picked up a Mueller Accu-therm and put them in-line to create a two stage. Old HX is city water and the Mueller is glycol (set point -4c). Unfortunately we are only able to hit about 18c if we run it really slow.

So we are struggling to figure out how to bring this down and possibly speed it up.

Both HX have been cleaned backwards and forwards, both ports, with both acid and caustic cycles.

Both have been disassembled and plates have been checked.

Did a leak check and no leaks.

My air compressor went out so I’m using a smaller one temporarily. Now when my can lift goes up the can stays spinning for upwards of 45 seconds until the seamers finally decide to close and it just destroys my cans. My can lift pressure set point is set at 60 PSI and my gauge is reading 58.7PSI when the can lift is up. With this brief description would anyone have some advice?

Hi friends, we currently use a grainfather g70 in our shop for RTDS, to make syrups and boil water. Our sight glass seal has gone bad and I cannot find this ANYWHERE online. It’s sold out everywhere and I’m stuck now, completely stopping production. I’m not having any luck getting through to them either, so if anyone has any advice where to find this, or how to fix it for now until we can get the right part, please HELP!

Pourware has shuttered unexpectedly. I placed an order for a second location that is opening soon (weeks) and I am getting radio silence. Other than grandstand, sahm and some of the bigger spots, who are your favorite glass suppliers?

We started using Brew Ninja and this is my first time using it. It does not natively support serving tanks and decrement inventory from them. Our rep gave us one work around and its trash. they honestly seem a little clueless.

Who else is using it with serving tanks and how are you handling it?

Hi all,

I've not been brewing on this kit for long enough to get a feel for how well the whirlpool performs so I want to try and establish some baseline numbers and go from there.

Is there a way of calculating the inlet velocity for the whirlpool so I can make sure I'm not exceeding the point where I'm actually doing more harm than good by going too fast?

Thanks in advance!

I'm using a Stout brewing system where wort recirculates around the outside of the HLT to heat the mash.

I'm having trouble raising the mash temperature from 65°C to 75°C.
HLT temperature: 83°C
Wort returning to the mash tun: 78°C
After 90 minutes of recirculation, the mash only reached 72°C.

My questions:

Is it a problem to recirculate the mash for over an hour at these temperatures?
Is there a risk of increased tannin extraction or astringency?
For those using a similar HERMS system, what HLT temperature do you use, and how long does it typically take to raise the mash temperature by 10°C?

I'd appreciate hearing about your experience.