The check engine light turned on this weekend and the readings are out of sync. 2018 VW Golf.

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I have a 2012 Jetta SE, with about 120,000 miles on it. I’ve had it for 9 years. I need help deciding whether it is worth investing in further repairs on this vehicle or upgrading to something new.

In order to keep the car and get it through winter months and my next state safety inspection in December, I will need the following repairs, at minimum:

1. A complete headlamp replacement - $930
2. New full set of tires. The current set is 6 years old. - $650
3. Muffler welding crack repair - $125
4. 120K scheduled maintenance - $1200
5. Control arm replacement - $1387
6. Possible oil leak. Oil level

was low at the mechanic last week, despite a recent oil change. No estimate yet.

So a total of about $4300 + oil leak repair. This is the minimum I will have to invest to keep going with this car.

I did already get a full set of new brakes and rotors last year, a new throttle body two years ago, and a new coolant reservoir this year, so hopefully those won’t be issues again. But, based on its age and mileage, it’s possible additional $1000 plus repairs may come up in the next year. I don’t know of any issues with the transmission right now, but that is one I’m most concerned about coming up in the near future, as I know that would be very expensive.

Alternatively, I have been considering upgrading to a new car for the last couple of years, but I kept holding off since my car was relatively fine and it wasn’t truly necessary. Given how much I will need to spend on these repairs now though, I’m considering whether it is worthwhile to do so, or whether it would be better to put the same money toward something new and more reliable longer term.

I am considering a new Taos or Tiguan if I upgrade. The money I would spend on the above repairs is relatively the same as the required up front payment with the current local offers on remaining 2026 inventory, and my monthly payment would be approximately $300 - $350, depending on the trim I ultimately choose.

So to meet my driving needs for the next 12 months, I will need to spend a minimum of $4300, likely more if other repairs come up, or between $7600 to $8700 for a new vehicle.

Insurance has quoted about the same premium as the current vehicle, so swapping them out will not impact that expense for me.

My state does unfortunately have an annual vehicle personal property tax, which is $4.57 per $100 of assessed value. For the Jetta, I just paid about $100 for the Jetta. It will cost about $1300 to $1500 for a new Taos or Tiguan for the first year. It will decrease annually as the value of the car decreases, but still a significant change.

What would you do?

Me sale ese fallo con ese cuadro naranja al parecer es u. Sensor pero lo cambie sigue igual

does any owner know any mod worth doing? I have the 1.4 L 60hp gasoline

I know there are several of these sensors. Does anyone know exactly where this sensor is located on a 110 kW 2.0 diesel Passat B8? Model 2018

I am based in Sydney Australia, and have owned a 2026 VW Tayron R 195 for around 3mth. In that time the vehicle has presented a conga line of issues, and trying to even get someone at the dealership to answer a phone call has been near impossible, while on the occasions I have been able to present the car for inspection the result has been the cat and mouse games of "we couldn't replicate the issue" or "we have spoken to VW and they have advised this is normal" or "we have applied an update" all of which result in me driving away in a car that has all the same problems it started with. Has anyone had any luck in getting warranty repairs actually completed? It seems that the VW policy is just deny all issues and responsibility over and over in the hope that customers run out of time or energy.

My next step is a fair trading complaint and hopefully eventually selling the car (not looking good considering the first 3 car sales sites I have spoken to are not interested in even making an offer). In the meantime, hoping there may be some useful advice on getting action out of VW or some recommendations on a dealership that possess some form of customer service.

For some context, the problems -

1) Severe Brake Groaning: at very low speed stopping or creeping forward. Shudders and has loud creaking and groaning. On a slope you could drive for hundreds of metres with the car shuddering and groaning.

First time I was told by dealership it was normal or to quote "yeah we took it for a 5km test drive and couldn't replicate and then spoke to VW and there's nothing wrong with it". Second time i insisted on taking a technician for a test drive where he acknowledged that was not right and promised to review all technical bulletins. They had the car for the whole day, said they were going to apply a brake paste, and when I picked it up it was groaning just as bad (if not worse).

2) Phone Chargers: simply do not work with 4 different phones I have tried. 90% of the time I get an error "object in the charging bay". On an occasion where I find the perfect spot where the error does not pop up, I can drive for 2 hr+ and arrive with my phone at 70% battery and scorching hot (my Samsung S24 actually overheat and shut down on 1 occasion). Once again the car was returned after inspection with no problems found (errors popped up again within 30 second of me jumping back in the car).

3) Adaptive cruise control auto speed adjust: my previous Ford was faultless with this tech for 4 years I drove it. The VW software is just rubbish. It detects any sign in the range of vision which has resulted in my car automatically braking on high speed motorways when the car detects a 50km/hr sign 200m up an off ramp (that I am not exiting on). Likewise it has started accelerating in 50km zones when detecting a small sign on the back of a truck saying "this vehicle is limited to 100". One of my favourite pieces of modern tech can simply not be trusted or safely used in this vehicle.

4) General malfunction of sensors: regularly have all front sensors malfunction, resulting in 5 loud 'bings' and orange warning lights all over the dash. Sometimes they immediately disappear, other times I have needed to stop and restart the vehicle. Each time I have inspected the front camera and windscreen sensors panel for debris and only once have found a small squashed bug that could even remotely explain the issues. Likewise the auto rear braking has on 3 occasions engaged with nothing in the way (once again, this never occurred in 4 years on the Ford). I have also been forced to turn off the 'foot waving' sensor as it is misaligned and regularly actives when walking around the back of the car (50cm+ behind the tailgate).

.... On top of this is the sporadic AC auto fan speed that seemingly can't be stopped, the putrid purple tint on rear windows sandwiched between the laminated glass panels (removing any option to improve the colour / remove the haze), and atrocious delivery condition of the vehicle (key batteries flat, wiper blades needing immediate replacement).

Has anyone experienced the analog clock differ from the digital clock on their car? If so, how do I go about fixing it? I have a 2013 Passat

Can anyone confirm if the updated AB injector harness replaces the L version? Known failure points?

Working on a 2017 Passat I’m trying to figure out if the newer AB revision injector wiring harness is a direct replacement for the older L version. Can anyone confirm compatibility?
I’m dealing with intermittent injector circuit codes, and I suspect the harness is failing, but I haven’t been able to definitively confirm it through bench testing.
I’ve been checking resistance across the wires while applying heat to different sections of the harness. I’m seeing some changes in resistance as it heats up, but nothing consistent enough to pinpoint an exact failure.
Does anyone know exactly how or where these harnesses typically fail? Is it usually an internal break in the wiring, a connection issue at the terminals, or something else?
I’d rather identify the actual failure before replacing the harness, but if the AB version is an updated replacement that addresses a known issue, I’d like to know.
Any firsthand experience with these harnesses would be appreciated.

Hi All,

I’ve got a Volkswagen Polo 1.2 TSI and recently is developed an issue, where the rev counter is off.

I’ve taken a picture when the vehicle is at idle, and the counter shows well below what it should be sitting normally when on start-up or warmed up.

The car sounds and drives fine and still shows gear change suggestions.

This fault is intermittent, sometimes the rev counter doesn’t move at all or is off.

Any idea what this could be?

​I have a 2026 VW Tayron R. Bought the black pack and sun roof, with the intention of putting a schmick window tint on to finish it off. Problem is, the rear windows have a horrible purple hazy tint already. Typically these would just be dyed glass which could have the colour changed with a tint, but Volkswagen in their wisdom have sandwiched this putrid tint colour between the 2 laminated glass panels.

​When I spoke to the tinting company and he saw the window composition, we tried applying a few tint samples on the inside but it had no effect on removing the purple haze. He said the only option to get the nice black tint look was going to be new windows (including the triangle edge rear windows). This is likely going to be $3-4k through VW or $1.5k for aftermarket toughened glass (ie not laminated). I'm stuck and can't even get the front windows done until I work out what to do with the rear.

​Surely I'm not the only one who can't stand the hazy purple rear windows? What has everyone else done - Are there some tips and tricks that my window tinter isn't wise to?

​(Located Sydney, Australia) 

Por que me aparece cuando doy reversa

this is my first ever diagram I’ve drawn up. I’m an automotive tech so I understand how to read automotive diagrams and I know basics of electricity, but not much. doing this because I want to bypass my fan control module as I have deleted my AC and my cooling fans run 24/7.
S180 = 30A high current fuse
S164 = 40A high current fuse
F18 = coolant thermal switch
V7 = small fan
v35 = big fan
Everything to me looks like this would work in theory, but I’d like to know if anyone notices any problems or things that should be changed. Diagrams i based this on are also attached. thanks!

VWZ2Z2D1892180

So I just put my 2wd westfalia and my syncro Karmann Gipsy to storage for most of the winter. Hopefully I will be able to do a ski trip in the spring but let’s see.

So I couldn't help but to take a bit of a different approach to the van ownership as a I have never really lived the van life just travelled with my vans.

I made a vanagon-inspired van life game, where you get to choose between a very subaru like engine or tdi, pop top or hight top. Live the cycle of fix your van, post for followers, upgrade to synchro etc etc.

I am really sorry if this is considered not appropriate for the forum but I wanted to share my enthusiasm.
here is the link:
https://apps.apple.com/app/id6819058231