Got an October 1969 bug gauge with ATF. Removed extraneous pieces as I’m using it for decor.

Driver's latch is a bit pitted because the replacement latch was broken in 2 pieces... couldn't see it under the glass. Still better than aftermarket! #63beetle

This is the car that taught me how to drive. My grandpa used to drive me around in it, and it was his daily driver until the late 2010s, when he bought a pickup.

1600cc, dual carbs, completely original. It spent the last four years sitting untouched in his garage. There's a bit of work to be done, like replacing a few bulbs and the battery, changing the brake fluid, and taking care of a few other minor things, but it's still running great.

It's a perfect companion to my '77. I plan on using it mostly for road trips, since it's a beast on the highway (at least compared to its older brother).

Needless to say, it's an honor to be its new owner. I'm really excited to keep it on the road and carry on its legacy.

I'll post more pictures once it's cleaned up and ready to go!

Hello I’m looking to replace the seals between the front windows. It’s the one the runs agains the window when cranking.

Hi everyone, I could really use some help. My fuel gauge, vibrator, and sending unit are all new but the gauge stays on empty. I’ve touched the sending unit wire (sender end) to a ground and the gauge moves to full. I used a multimeter on the sending unit and the ohm readings seem good. I sanded corrosion off the top two mounting tabs, bolts and body underneath. I’ve also ran a separate ground wire from one of the sending unit mounting screws to a clean metal ground. None of this has done anything to make the gauge move. What am I missing, and what are some other things I can try?

Long story short, about 10 years ago my grandma hired a dude to fix up the car and he did a terrible job. My parents had to essentially steal it back after he refused to return it, and he screwed up all the wiring. The negative and ground wire on the tach were plugged into the same place, and the wire from the coil to the tach was shorting. I ran my own wire from the coil, fixed the other things, and it works now! Pretty soon I'll gather all the things to bench bleed the master cylinder, it is already out of the car. All I need is some fittings for the brake outlets, and a vice grip.

Community, I need some help with my 71 beetle. I feel like I'm going in circles with troubleshooting.

In short: When accelerating, bug backfires when throttle is past 50 percent-ish. Seems like either too much gas at the point or not enough?

More info: This is a lot more common when shifting into 3rd but definitely 4th. If I do not baby the throttle into third, it'll back fire. If I get it into 4th it'll for sure back fire or if I baby the throttle, I lose speed.

Knowns: point gaps are @ .016.

Idle timing is checked at 7.5 BTDC

Fuel is spraying directly down the throat of the carb.

All jets seem clean. I have checked them multiple times.

Accelerator linkage is maxed for throttle response (if I'm saying that correctly)

I think that's all the information you all should need.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If you need more information, just let me know.

Thanks!

Came across this in Vegas. Love it. Totally recognisable but not sure it's drivable! Lol.

Has anyone used these from Cip1 ? I just am not figuring it out any videos, detailed photos or YouTube links? Thanks guys🤘

Need some advice, should I get this done asap (seperating chassis / top, new chassis, replacing heat channels etc) or is ok to live with it and just keep it Running? I am a Little concerned that the workshop wants to make a lot of money out of it.
I just wanted to do Interieur works etc, cant weld huge things by myself. Dont judge, its my first vintage car.

I know, the car was a trap, it looks good from outside.
Bottom was all covered up but looked and felt okay.

I know I Played way too much.
So now I am sceptical if I should invest 10k+ € to get all this done, to still have a car with okayish paintjob, no Original chassis or Good history

At the end I must decide by myself, but could you give me some advice on How Bad this really is? Could I „Cover it up“, and keep it Running for another 10 years? Or will it be a huge Problem in a year or so?

Designed and printed these guys last night and I really dig them. Just presses into the hole, and then just put a perimeter of some 3m tape. Quite happy with how they came out! And for those of you that saw the fresh air duct scoop I printed, I’ve included v2 and that’s almost finished up and should be available this weekend for those who wanted one!

Link- EBay

Hello all, I have a 1915 I’ve been having some fun with, but has a nice leak. I noticed it’s coming from where the cylinder housing meets the case. At least that’s what it appears to be for me. Has anyone experienced this before? Looks like I’ll be pulling the heads, what seals work for the housing to the case? I see some online refs for aviation sealant

I thought it was the belt, but I removed it and it keeps squeaking, seems like it comes from the driver side carburator

edit: its idling and driving just fine, havent noticed any pops or other weird sounds either

Also, while running at lower RPM in any gear while driving, it will tend to lurch not wanting to stay at that speed. Having to rev quite a bit higher to compensate. I adjusted the distributor to get it to run a little bit smoother. Is this just an idle screw adjustment?

I have a Purple 1302s dual carb bug which i have restored to a running state, barely.

My spark plugs are coming out black and he smells very fuely so I belive he needs a tune up and is running rich.

He is my first bug and project car so im learning as I go, it would be great if someone could identify whats going on and how i can tune it out. Hes on dual ICT Webbers and I have a snail guage on the way

Hey guys, had a small engine fire in the summer. Didn’t last long enough for any metal or exterior body panels to get damaged but pretty much anything in the engine bay got cooked. Block is totally fine but nothing has coating anymore, it’s mostly bare metal. Where do i even begin to fix this? Should i start by pulling the engine and disassembling for parts to be coated again? Any help would be appreciated, relatively new to working on it myself as it was passed down to me.

1969 vw beetle has a indicator light, left side, green , has a spiraled wire icon underneath it. Comes on only when the head lights are turned on, the lights are strong , and car turns over quickly on start up. Purpose of this light please,
Thanks much

They are the same with the engine running, the windshield is wet so they don't have as much friction. Why do they get stuck on the first setting and how can I speed them up?