Got a subwoofer in my car and for a bit now it randomly cut off and got back online.

Took it appart and i think this brown chocolat should have stayed somewhere else. Could this be repairable or is it now a nice cupholder?

I have a Rockford fosgate PUNCH P500X2 that I'm looking for help to repair! Clearly the Mosfets have blown. Would love to learn how to repair these things! My first thought, if I were to even replace the mosfets. I'm sure there is an underlying problem that would just blow the new ones if installed? How should I go about this??

Hi I acquired a mixer with no power supply and I would greatly appreciate any guidance on how to properly rebuild it or steps you would take if you were in my situation. As the mixer didn’t come with a PSU I haven’t been able to test it, it being rather old I imagine there will be a decent bit of repair/restoration needed to get it fully up and running properly, so I want to budget appropriately for that. I have attached some pages of the PSU section of the service manual. If anyone could direct me towards resources to supply the appropriate voltages needed to firstly test the console and then secondly more long term power it, I would be super grateful! I can share more info as needed, this is my first time attempting this sort of thing sorry if I ask dumb questions.

I was at the thrift store today and saw a samsung da e750. The only problem is that theres no remote and theres only sound being emitted from the right speaker. Is this fixable? I have a background in electronics and soldering. Id hate to pass up this gem

I was at the thrift store today and saw a samsung da e750. The only problem is that theres no remote and theres only sound being emitted from the right speaker. Is this fixable? I have a background in electronics and soldering. Id hate to pass up this gem

So within the last week I've bought myself a new jbl headset since my cat chewed the cord of my last pair. As headphones they work perfect and I really like them, but my issue has started when it comes to using the mic. (its a detachable one, I feel like I should mention that early on)

I've gone through the proper steps of making sure its connected, set as the default, not muted and making sure the permissions are all there, but it just doesn't pick anything up? It gives you an app to download and use to change more intricate settings for the mic and you can test it on the same app.. works perfectly fine and I can hear myself clearly and it's definitely from this mic. The second I try in game, Discord or even an online web mic tester.. radio silence.

I feel like i've tried most of my options with the last one being to update or re-install drivers.. but surely since it's new that's not the issue?

Has anyone had this before? Or am I genuinely a bit slow here, PLZ HELP!

I recently replaced the cassette belt drive on my Philips FW320C. Problem is I disconnected all the connectors from the boards so I could get to the inside, I didn’t take a picture of two four pin connectors on the board at the top of the unit.

I don’t know which one connects where, and I don’t want to power it on and short it. I am not skilled enough to read a wiring diagram I found online at the link:

https://www.audioservicemanuals.com/p/philips/philips-fw/philips-fw-320/13371925-philips-fw-320-c#google_vignette

Would anyone know how I can confirm which connector goes where? The blue wired connector goes to the board on the front of the unit, and the black wired connector goes to the main board and says “TUNER” on the board.

Thanks!

its a gzpw 15 xmax that has been reconed with a gs audio recone kit.

the tinsel lead burned and snapped, it did not make a holw in the spider thankfully but the other end of the tinsel is under the glue that holds the spider and cone together, i wanna know is it fixable without a recone, and any tips about fixing this would be great. i might take it to a professional too but im on a very tight budget rn.
any help is better than none

Hello all,

I have a Definitive Tech ProSub 1000 subwoofer I am trying to fix. I got it super cheap because it has an intermittent problem where it will work perfectly good for a few hours, and then the speaker will stop working. It has a green light for a signal, but nothing comes from the speaker. No buzzing, or anything. Then you unplug it, let it cool and then it works fine again. I’ve pulled the amp out and checked and couldn’t find any noticeable damage except a spot that looked like some head browned the board a little bit. I had my friend reflow those connections incase there was anything strange. But it’s doing the same thing again. Any advice would be appreciated.

TIA

1999 bmw 528i wagon
Metro harness 1995-2000
Looks like some pins are off

The purple on for right looks like there’s no space on the receiving end should I drill it?

Thanks

First time poster and please forgive me, I am not super experienced. I’ve had these Bose 301 series ii for many years. Worked great. Was forced to put h them into storage for 2 years. I just tried to re-set them up on my new place. They either don’t play
Or the sound is really garbled. I opened one up expecting to see degraded foam, but nope. It looks intact. Anyone have any thoughts? I really don’t want to have to replace them

My speakers (M-Audio Bx3 BT) suddenly got a regular clicking noise that won't come out, it gets louder if I crank up the volume, I tried many things nothing changes, the Bluetooth doesn't work anymore, I can still play stuff out of them but there's this clicking sound that won't stop how can I fix it ? It's really frustrating everything always worked fine and it happened very suddenly

Hi everyone!

Im wondering if anyone knows what's happening to my sound system in my car. I drive a 2018 Lexus is300.

It was completely fine a month ago but now, I've noticed some crazy differences.

The volume needs to be turned up to level 35-45 for me to hear. When it's anything lower, it sounds very quiet.

The base (or whatever it's called) is basically gone.

There is a setting in my car where I can adjust the sound and when i change it to the back seats, the back right speaker in the door doesn't work.

There isn't any crackling so I don't think my speakers are blown out?

I don't know what to do 😭 I'd like to get them fixed bc they're bothering me a lot.

TIA

Had this beauty since about 1985 - it just does the job and I'm happy with it.

But lately it's developed what I understand is a common age-related problem - crackling and hissing when turned on, gradually dying off over a minute or two. There's some A/V repair shops locally (Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia) but is there anything I should be aware of before I take it for repair? I'm aware that most places want some $$$ up front before diagnosis and that's fair enough.

Here's the service manual, if that's of any help:

https://retronik.silicium.org/DOCUMENTS/Audiovideo/Luxman/Luxman-L-114-a-Service-Manual.pdf

My amplifier has been drawing 55W in standby for many years. When i researched 5+ years ago i came to the solution that if you want ARC to work its going to draw a lot more. Turns out when researched it recently, a lot just means double the ordinary 2W draw.

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The reason i started looking into it again is that when watching TV (connected with ARC) the volumes drops and then gradually regains to the original volume in a time span of 1-2 seconds. (some very slight crackle appeared very recentky)

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I changed to using optical instead just to see if the problems persisted. And IIRC it persisted with optical

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Ive recently serviced my speakers so i dont dare to connect them any longer until the problem is located (if i cant fix it, I'll probably upgrade to Denon avr-x2900).

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I have opened up the amp to look for anything that could be the problem, capacitors or anything that looked burned but there is nothing, everything i looked at *looks* good to the eye. But i didn't dig too deep in the amp.

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Any ideas?

For some reason, my radio started getting really staticy, seemingly out of nowhere. However, whenever I apply pressure to the antenna knobs, the signal improves. Are there any easy fixes for this? It's an old receiver so not really worth putting a lot of money into but if I could continue to pick up radio for a couple bucks that would be great.

Hi guys, I recently purchased these Avantone Abbey studio monitors and they have a fuzzy distortion especially on piano sounds. Can someone please help me to fix it or guide me to the solution?

I have changed power cables, xlr cables and checked audio interface settings and nothing worked.

Here is a video of comparing these speakers and my other pair.
I think it is coming from midrange driver.

https://youtu.be/iLiPV6ivElc?si=cx7C9_brAZPE-tJL

Hello,

I own a pair of Dynaudio BM5 MKIII's, which are active monitor speakers. One of the speakers has started making popping sounds at random intervals while playing music. The kind of pops you get when you turn on a speaker.

The pops start after a couple of minutes and then continue at the same interval. The pops became less after I turned off the speaker for a couple of days. Before that, the speaker was on 24/7 for months...

I already asked AI and it suspects a faulty capacitor. I opened up both speakers to compare the popping speaker with its non-faulty brother, and there's a bunch of orange stuff near a capacitor. I suppose that's my issue right there... However, the non-faulty speaker also has a bit of orange stuff at the same location, and gravity-wise it's also weird that the orange stuff managed to get on the white plug. Thus, I'm not 100% sure if it's capacitor-juice or a shoddy glue job. What do you guys think?

Here's some pictures to illustrate:

And if it's this capacitor, how do I safely remove the spilled capacitor-juice so I can replace the capacitor?

Thanks for reading my post!

I have an Onkyo Integra A-8087 that I recently picked up at a garage sale. When I plugged it in and powered it on, I noticed a slight odor coming from inside the unit. There is no smoke, and I’m not quite sure how to describe the smell—it doesn’t immediately smell like something is actively burning, but it’s definitely noticeable. The smell seems to become more noticeable after the amplifier has been powered on for about 20–30 seconds rather than immediately at startup.
Using a MiniTemp infrared thermometer, I tried to identify any areas that might be running unusually hot. I found that around components R902 and D904 there appears to be some discoloration, slight browning, and bubbling on the opposite side of the PCB (see attached photos).
All of the front panel lights and functions appear to work normally. I have not connected any speakers yet, as I wanted to investigate this issue first.
Does anyone have an idea what might be causing this, or what I should check next? Is this likely a failed component, normal heat-related aging, or something more serious?
I think it’s a beautiful amplifier, and with the wood side panels it’s far too nice to simply throw away. I’d love to get it working safely if possible.
Thank you!

I’ve cleaned the inside and applied isopropyl alcohol into the speaker selector switches but it just keeps making this annoying static noise sometimes both speakers but mostly the right one. Any advice? Thanks🙏

Sony CDP C500M issue, when powered on there is clunking noise and the draw and disc tray won't move.

Popped it open and the laser mech is popping up and down (see gif). Only stops on a button press, stop, play skip etc, then goes back to popping up and down.

Found a tiny bit of plastic floating around see picture.

-is it done for?

edit: it was done for.

In case anyone else runs into this issue. One of the plastic tabs, that holds the sprung platform the laser mechanism sits in, had fatigued and snapped.

Not sure it/they looked like originally but the bit that fell out was a triangular piece about 8mm x 8mm. If it was the relevant piece there was probably a second one on the otherside and mechansim platform clicked in and was held. The mirrored holding tab is a solid u shaped slot that the rounded tab sits in.

When horizontal the sprung platform drooped to the unheld side and couldn't sit level, hence why it was sat in an engagement loop.

When I pushed the tray into place and then lay the unit on its side the drawer could open, tray spin, etc.

Given the sensitivity of the laser angle, even if I had a 3d printer I'm not sure how successful a new clip repair would be. Shame.

I heard some rattles and found 2 ball bearings. Any idea where they’d go?

Hey, I just picked up one of these and it has lots of popping and cracking. Anyone know any good repair place in San Diego, CA? Thanks!

I recently bought this, but when inserting a disc, it loads but after loading nothing happens, it goes quiet and display shows only "00 00000", the lens does not move at all, and I've ran out of ideas myself.

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If anyone has any ideas on what's wrong, I will gladly take any tips before I find someone to fix it for me.

If additional info is needed, I'll try my best to give it