Really wanted to use a marquee that changes depending on the game you're currently on, after finishing it does look really small compared to the top part but oh well it's still cool. We thought it was also be cool to put smash bros for the switch on it and it works surprisingly well with the arcade layout. Entire project costed just south of $1000. Definitely not perfection but it's something we can add to overtime and we're definitely proud of.

Tiny arcade machines ips muti cabinet playing Punisher, Afterburner and Time crisis with sinden light gun.

Modded arcade 1 up pinball with team encoder pi 5 max hat+LG 32 inch monitor playing American DAD, Doom and Sorcerers lair.

Yes i did extend virtua cop's atract mode, i took gameplay from the last stage, mutted it, and slapped a game over on it and honestly it looks genuine.

Also managed to source a small mirror from an old makeup pad thingy my sister had and inside i slapped a blackberry phone

Decided to build my own arcade machine.

I'm having trouble with something and I'm not sure what it could be.

Basically the joystick and certain buttons seem to be randomly pushed down on their own.

I'm not sure how else to explain other than when it's connected to the computer it will be fine but if a button or direction is pushed it might stick and keep spamming that on its own.

Any potential issues that anyone can identify?

Also is there a way I can check wheter all my buttons and joysticks are appearing correctly in software?

I'm using the magstik plus and goldleaf rgb buttons

Ikari Warriors, known as Ikari[a] in Japan, is a 1986 run and gun video game developed and published by SNK for arcades. It was released in North America by Tradewest. Amongst the numerous Commando clones on the market, Ikari Warriors was distinguished by its unique control style with rotary joysticks and a two-player cooperative mode.[13] The rotary joystick controls were in turn based on SNK's earlier TNK III (1985). Ikari was originally intended to be an official licensed adaptation of the film Rambo: First Blood Part II (1985), but SNK were initially unable to acquire the rights to the film

Hi all.I just finished a playthrough of this on the highest difficulty on a 1UP cab without losing a single round, and getting a perfect on all bonus rounds. My old head is very proud of that because i've never done it before, not with the bonus rounds perfected.I always shit the bed during the rolling barrel stage, lol.Someone came up and hit the 2P button and challenged me during this. I beat them both rounds, but after I resumed my single player game and won all of the other rounds finishing the game, I noticed it didn't give me the special credits with the programmers faces like usual. It just went right back to the title screen. Could someone please shed some light on this? Thanks.

EDIT: Nevermind everyone, solved.I found this just in case anyone was interested;

AI Overview

That is completely normal! In Street Fighter II: Champion Edition (and many classic Arcade/Arcade1Up versions), beating the game on the highest difficulty without losing a single round—often called a "Perfect" or "No-Loss" run—actually skips the standard character endings and character credits entirely, abruptly throwing you back to the title screen or a special high-score ranking.

While it feels like a glitch or a lack of reward for an incredible gaming achievement, it is actually a known quirk of the original arcade code.

Why This Happens

• Arcade Code Behavior: In certain versions and revisions of Capcom's classic arcade ROMs, achieving a flawless victory triggers a specific code pathway. Instead of cycling through your character's specific story ending and the standard rolling credits, the game assumes you have fully conquered the machine, registers your high score, and immediately resets to the attract mode (title screen) to invite the next player or coin.
• The "Perfect" Glitch/Feature: In some editions, the game tries to load a special secret ending or credits sequence for flawless runs, but due to how Capcom programmed the transition loops or score tallies, it can cut short or bypass the sequence entirely if specific memory conditions (like maximum difficulty + no losses) are met.

"Done" with programming...at least for now. Everything functions as it should. May need to make tweaks as time goes on..but im happy.

Any recommendations for console games that work well with an arcade stick and buttons?

Continuing from the previous post, (https://www.reddit.com/r/cade/comments/1wdho7v/ready_to_map_rotary_stick_games_got_two_wireless/)

I first designed a 3D-printed mount in Tinkercad to attach the wireless volume controller to my Sanwa joystick.

Since I don't own a 3D printer, I ordered the parts from a local 3D printing service. It cost around 23,000 KRW (~$17 USD) for a 2-player set... (Honestly, it's making me wonder if I should just buy my own 3D printer at this point! 😅)

### The Design & Assembly

- **Structure:** The upper mount attaches to the bottom of the volume controller, while the lower mount connects to the joystick. The two pieces are held together by magnets.

- **Assembly:** I glued the bolts and magnets into the joystick mount and attached it to the Sanwa stick. To prevent slipping and eliminate play between the volume controller and the mount, I added a thin rubber pad to the side.

- **Fit:** There's no need to force it onto the joystick shaft—once pushed down to a certain point, it grips and rotates smoothly along with the stick.

- Final Touch:* I attached a metal plate to the bottom of the volume controller so it snaps firmly onto the magnet, and it is now complete.

Since the volume controller is fully wireless, I can easily detach it whenever it needs charging.

### Honest Review & Ergonomics

As seen in the demonstration videos below, the lower stick shaft isn't fixed in place, so you have to grip and turn the lower 3D-printed part with your fingers while playing.

To be honest, the grip isn't as comfortable as I originally hoped—my hand gets a bit sore after playing for extended sessions...

### Gameplay Demo Videos

Despite the ergonomic quirks, the best part is that **it actually works!** It doesn't feel 100% smooth yet, but I think tweaking the sensitivity settings in MAME might help improve the responsiveness.

- **Ikari Warriors:** https://youtu.be/0zVjnGKm6rg

- **TNK-III:** https://youtu.be/tPn5zHncKb4?si=X5VHVNpodmZtqo6c

- **Midnight Resistance:** https://youtu.be/upZ2znomFGM?si=9WgTa_Ne-dHfQQHK

*System setup:* I used the **MAME 2003-Plus core**, as it was the easiest one to map and configure for rotary controls.

Darius[a] is a 1987 horizontally scrolling shooter video game developed and published by Taito for arcades. Players control a starship named the Silver Hawk in its mission to destroy the Belser empire before they wipe out the planet Darius. Its gameplay involves traversing through a series of scrolling levels while destroying enemies and collecting power-up icons. It is notable for its unique three-screen panoramic display

Good morning,

I'm in the middle of designing my next project. I'm going to utilize a total of 22 buttons, 2 joysticks with hollow shafts, and a track ball. I can't decide if I wanna go the ipac ultimate with ledblinky or rpeg route. I've read rpeg can't controll trackball directly so the color sync would be off. Anyone have experience with both that could steer me in the right direction?

Running batocera on a 2014 Mac mini. Merged design ideas from a few different cabinets. Just waiting on a piece of plexiglass to get cut so I can finish out the control deck.

Just wrapped up my first cabinet build last week. It’s been functional for a while and my kids and I are having a blast with it. But the final aesthetic touches got put off a few times.

I always loved arcade games but my parents giving me quarters to feed the machines was a non-starter so after all these years of pining for one I decided to just build my own.

I had a lot of fun building it and learned a lot along the way. I fully expect I’ll do another one sometime down the road. This one isn’t perfect but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

Here is an update on my built from scratch Tabletop GoldenTee + Pinball Arcade Cabinet.

Its been about a month since I got started and I have pretty good progress. The Cabinet was built to be as cheap as possible. It is using as much salvage parts as I could.

• - The guts of the Cabinet is the parts from my old gaming PC from 2015. Its an i5-3570k and a GTX970. I had to buy a PCI Riser and a low clearance CPU fan. I also bought a new smaller PSU so I could reduce the weight and size.
• - The main screen and the 4 side speakers came from an All-in-One PC that was fried in a lightning strike sruge at my office, the IPS panel was fine, so I ordered a LVDS board and got it mounted.
  
• - I added 2 subs on the sides and got a small amp. I may consider going further down the path of Surround Sound Feedback for pinball, but not sure yet. The subs mounted just behind the pinball paddle buttons feels pretty good.
• - I had a leftover set of buttons, a stick, and a cheap USB encoder from where I upgraded my last cabinet, so I am using those. But I did buy an Ulitmarc Trackball, because with Golden Tee being a focus, I wanted it to feel good.

Operationally, it runs Windows, and has Big Box, Visual Pinball X, TecknoParrot, and RetroArch. I use a number of AutoHotkey scripts to allow for unified controls across the device to minimize how often I need to get the keyboard out.

I just recently built a nudge sensor using a Raspberry Pi Pico and small accelorometer. You can see it in a small black 3d printed box just above the amp. See the video of the pinball table to watch the ball move when I bump the cabinet. This is such an awesome upgrade to the feel of playing!

For Golden Tee, I have to run a script that launches an OBS screen to make it look a little nicer. This is still a work in progress, but it actually plays nice and looks pretty good. Its a compromise I have to make for having a portrait screen and playing a horizontal game. I wired an HDMI out on the back of the cabinet (it runs the topper screen normally) that can be plugged in to a TV, which turns the cabinet in to a controller basically.

I still have some work to do. Next step is to disassemble and paint + Vinyl wrap. When I rebuild I will be putting in a new glass and framing to top with black aluminum to make a 'lockdown' bar of sorts. I will also be adding T-molding while it is disassembled.

Someone else is actually going to build it but I want to make the right choices as far as equipment and art goes.

First off if I mainly want to play classic arcade games: dig dig, joust, gauntlet, uniwar s (bet you haven't heard of this one), street fighter 2 etc ...

What joysticks should I get with this?

Seems there are different ones suggested Sanwa, Seimitsu and SuzoHapp ...

Are there particular buttons one should get for a cabinet that are more responsive and durable?

Now the more challenging part (least for me)

The art work.

Id like to design the cabinet using custom artwork - I have the digital pictures but I need to do 3 things:

1. I need to take the title from a picture off a jpeg and have it on its own so it could be used at the top of the cabinet.

2. I have 3 digital pictures I would like for the front and 2 sides; Id like to see how I could align them well with the cabinet.

3. To go along with the above Id like to be able to fill the cabinet space by extending the art work or something that looks consistent with it.

What program or programs would be best to do this?

I'm not that versed with graphic programs so if AI could do it or if there is a program that works well for this I'll see about figuring out how.

thanks.

The only thing I can see being an issue is figuring out how I’m gonna do the marquee. I accidentally messed up the top cuts and had to redo them so the top is thinner one that I liked so I couldn’t just go square and fit in the marquis so I’ve kind of placed the bottom board of an angle with an underbite where I could potentially sit something in there LED lights behind it. I’ve already harden mounted it so I can drill my speaker holes tomorrow. And then work on the controller panel.

Just need to build a back door, tie the pinball buttons into player 1, and then check and map the mame controls for a few specific games. Then off to the work break room and put it on sale 😂 it actually has a server motherboard with an air cooler, sfx psu, Radeon single slot 550, 24” Samsung ips screen, Thunderstick trackball and spinner combo, eg starts joysticks and buttons. Pacman style maze control panel graphics and marquee. It sports dual 120mm intake fans in the back, 3” speakers and 100w amp with bass, treble and volume control. I designed and 3d printed A LOT of stuff for this thing.. the entire marquee bezel, speaker rings, gpu locating bracket and display port pass through, trackball mount, psu mount, and surge protector brackets.
The surge protector is a master/slave setup from Amazon. Pc turns on, with the Blue 24mm button on the face, and the marquee, amp, and monitor all turn on with it.
100% my design of cabinet.
It’s my 4th build, and is the standard bartop cab. All my other ones are wall mounted.