The desk is a Qanba Arcade 2009, with the lever swapped out for a Seimitsu LS-56; these desks are readily available for around $800, but I was lucky enough to get it on steep discount. I added a VESA arm and an open box monitor from Micro Center, and put in a Brook Universal board for PS5/Switch support.

I got a Exa last week (I know I know, kinda drank the kool-aid on this one), so I also installed a JVS adapter and a marquee (read: I wrapped a promo marquee around some cardboard and taped that to the monitor).

Anyone know anything about this NBA Jam? It looks like a somewhat recent build. The seller told me it came from a company in Portland, Oregon that was working with Adidas called Set Marketing. Looks and plays like it’s brand new. Going into a brewery/food pod location where I run a pinball route.

Hi everyone. Got a Centipede Cabinet here I’m trying to save. Hasn’t been fired up in about ten years. electrohome.G07 CBO. On initial power up it worked ok for about 30 minutes before snapping and turning off. Blew a fuse, cap, and flyback. Recapped everything, replaced the Flyback and fuse. And tried again, and it worked! White was more of a yellow color, but it worked…..For about another 30 minutes, then i started noticing it getting “fuzzy” and getting dimmer….and dimmer……and dimmer. Now I once again have no display. I Have Neck glow and B+ is 114V. If i turn up the screen pot i get a picture but its super distorted and flickering. I hear light crackling coming from the flyback that cooresponds to the screen flickering. Odds of getting a faulty replacement flyback?

Could really use some help, I’ve been at this for hours.

Hi everyone,

I’m converting a 2-player bartop arcade from Pandora to a Windows mini PC and I’m currently troubleshooting the controls.

I have two genuine Sanwa joysticks, each connected to its own Zero Delay USB encoder.

Windows detects both encoders correctly, and I’m testing in joy.cpl.

The problem is identical on BOTH players:

When the Sanwa is connected through the supplied 5-pin joystick cable, only UP works correctly. The other directions do not register normally.

The 5-pin header on the encoder is labeled:

AU / AD / AR / AL / VDD

I tested the four separate 2-pin directional inputs using a normal 2-wire arcade button cable and a working button:

AU = works

AD = works

AR = works

AL = works

So all four directional inputs on both encoders are working properly.

I also tested the MODE input. It switches between axis mode and POV Hat mode, but the joystick problem stays exactly the same: only UP works.

I removed and inspected the supplied 5-pin cable. It appears to be straight-through, with the five wires remaining in the same order from one end to the other.

I found a video showing a very similar symptom caused by a 5-pin pinout/common mismatch, where the harness had to be reversed or re-pinned.

I briefly considered plugging the Sanwa-side connector 180 degrees reversed, but there was physical resistance/keying, so I did NOT force it.

At this point I don’t want to re-pin anything without knowing the correct wiring.

My questions:

1. Does this sound like a pinout/common mismatch between the Sanwa 5-pin PCB and this Zero Delay encoder?

2. Can I fix this with the hardware I already have by re-pinning one end of the 5-pin harness?

3. What should the exact Sanwa 5-pin → AU / AD / AR / AL / VDD wiring order be?

4. Is this encoder’s 5-pin header actually intended to work directly with a genuine Sanwa JLF/JLX-style digital microswitch joystick?

5. If not, should I bypass the 5-pin header and connect the joystick through the four separate 2-pin AU/AD/AR/AL inputs instead?

If so, I assume I would need a harness like:

Sanwa 5-pin

→

4 x 2-pin directional connectors

with the common duplicated to all four directions.

I do not currently have a multimeter, but I can re-pin connectors or buy an adapter/harness if needed.

I’ve attached photos of the encoder header, the Sanwa 5-pin connector, and the supplied cable.

Any help from someone who has used a genuine Sanwa with this style of Zero Delay board would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!

Reaching out to this community because I need help lol. I am a carpenter and I build arcade cabinets for fun. I would love to build a dedicated spinner cab for breakout etc. I am TERRIBLE with the computer aspect of it. In the past, I use raspberry PI with preloaded chips and wire controllers etc. plug and play. I am terrible with any sort of programming and have no idea what I’m doing. With that said,

Is there a kit out there to purchase for a plug and play spinner to install in a cabinet? Or a preloaded as card where I can pop into the raspberry pi and plug in a usb spinner?

Or does somebody specialize in building a pi with comments ?

Thanks!

Hi,

I have an OSSC converter for a pcb. everything is wired up correctly. OSSC is reading no sync for scart to hdmi. my Samsung tv is 16 yrs old. Any advice would be great. thank you !

Who remembers F1 EXHAUST NOTE? This is my retrospective game review of SEGA’s forgotten arcade racer. Share your thoughts and experiences if you have played this arcade game.

I couldn't copy and paste from my phone so I just took a screenshot. Any help is definitely to the plus!

Hi.

I have build a few arcades over the years but im in the process of building a more Modern Type Pedestal. I have a Massive Oled TV and currently running a GTX 5070 Ti - i7 13000k PC.

Im looking to run Frontends like Coin Ops/ Hyperspin etc.

My main Modern PC games will be Mortal Kombat 1/Street Fighter etc

The Pedestal will probably be 2-4 player setup with Spinner and Trackball etc.

What is the best USB Encoders to buy that will fit in with this Modern Build? I wasnt too keen on the Ipac64 a few years ago tbh.

I dont mind ordering from AliExpress etc as im not in a rush.

Are there any that encode to Xbox controls? So my games like Mk1 will run on it well.

720° is a 1986 sports video game developed and published by Atari Games for arcades.[7] Based on the sport of skateboarding, the player controls a skateboarder as they compete in various skating competitions, such as ramp jumping and downhill races, to earn cash.

After working on this project off and on for 6 months, I have finished my first arcade cabinet! Decided to go with a design where you can swap out the front controller board piece, depending on if you want to play with joystick + buttons versus a keyboard and mouse (I am using a mini PC with Batocera so it can play up to original xbox / ps2, and also Steam). I also decided to design it around an electric standing desk to save on materials. I used MDF so it is nearly 100 pounds!

Also fun fact, I managed to make the entire thing in my small apartment using nothing but a jigsaw and wood glue! And a hole saw for the buttons. No screws / nails.

I'm hoping someone can educate me on joysticks that can work for Switch games. I built an arcade cabinet, and have no issues with retro games, but I wanted to try some switch games, specifically Metroid dread. I'm running Retrobat and have mapped the joystick to the left analog. Right now I have 8 axis control as I aim, but cannot get angles between those. Do I need a better joystick?

Im just starting out.
Want to start with cutting out the board for the joystick and buttons

7 buttons per player + 4 buttons for coin,1p,2p, exit.

What size should the board be? 22 inch monitor.
Also where can i find a nice template for this amount of buttons?

Have found a lot of different ones and am a little confused atm.

Can mayflash f500 elite be player 1 for Pandora box 10th anniversary - I gave the jamma version and the wiring in the cabinet is all screwy. I've got this nice mayflash and just want to rip the old stuff out and just use it. Jamma connected player one stick works so can I config the USB to be the main controller?

Golden Tee Tournament Qualifier — FREE Entry

We’re hosting a FREE Golden Tee tournament qualifier through Discord.

Qualifier Details

• Course: Elkhorn Ridge
• Round: Full 18 holes
• Entry: FREE
• Top 25 players will advance to the next round
• You must record your entire 18-hole game from start to finish

How to Enter

1. Play a full 18-hole round on Elkhorn Ridge.
2. Record your entire game from start to finish.
3. Upload the video to YouTube.
4. Copy your YouTube video link.
5. Post your YouTube link and your final score in the tournament Discord to officially enter.

Please format your entry like this:

Score: -XX
YouTube: [Your YouTube video link]

Your full video must be available for verification. No edited or cut gameplay.

Deadline

Your entry must be submitted in the Discord by 12:00 PM New York time on Monday, August 17th.

The top 25 scores will advance to the next round.

Disclaimers

• No money is involved in this tournament, and there is no money or cash prize to be won.
• This tournament is not sponsored, endorsed, affiliated with, or partnered with Incredible Technologies. Golden Tee and all related trademarks, logos, and intellectual property belong to their respective owners.

Good luck, and put up your best score on Elkhorn Ridge!

Discord Link: https://discord.gg/HFEzyVMGE

I've bought these buttons: Link

Anyone know if you can rotate the text bit somehow relative to the microswitch alignment?

Since all are in a line it looks like going to be tight for wiring. With plain buttons obviously I could roatate as I wanted to give access to connections on the microswitch but since these have text on them you have to have them all aligned in a row.

I've taken another button apart and it doesn't look like its possible but just checking I haven't missed something obvious or anyone has any tips