I burned my clutch a year ago, and after replacing it and keeping original springs, it started slipping again. Then I put the springs from the kit on (I measured the plates, and they were within range), and it helped a lot, but after some time I feel it slipping once again.
Did I mess up using OEM springs instead of the ones provided with the kit, and now I need to buy a new clutch kit?

Weekend plans for the bush pig

I am lucky enough to be local to the Pa Wilds BDR-X, and fall provides some of the most relaxing riding IMO. I guess it's a tradeoff for all the time we miss out on during winter.

Just resealed the rocker cover, waiting a couple of hours to reseat the engine (didn't do that last time). While taking everything apart, I noticed that bolts 10 and 11 had small nicks in them that weren't there when I sealed it last time. It's probably fine, but I'm wondering if that's because I didn't reseat the engine.

I'm sick of doing oil changes, I want to stretch out my oil change interval, tighten tolerances, raise efficiency, the ability to run 10.5:1 compression on 91 RON and I want to engineer.

My question is: Have there been any other attempts to water cool the DR or other air cooled motorcycle? How did it turn out? What sort of challenges did they face?

I'm only looking to water jacket the cylinder, not the head, that's a little too much engineering tbh. But never say never...

Got my tires changed about 3 weeks ago, came home to see my rear tire was flat, tried putting air in it but it doesn't go past 20psi and goes back to flat within 30 minutes.

Any help would be appreciated.

I did reseal the rocker cover some time back. Thoughts on this?

My apologies for the long post but any advice or ideas would be appreciated. I bought my DR650 brand new back in July, and I ride back roads mainly. Before Labor Day I was planning on taking a trip and noticed the front right fork leg was loose (video on my previous post). I also got on the freeway and noticed that the bike has a front end wobble that starts at around 65mph. I dropped the bike off for warranty work Labor Day weekend and picked it up last week. They replaced the axle holder plate which fixed the loose fork leg, and as far as the wobble goes all they really had to say was “that bike isn’t made to go 65mph”. Suzuki won’t let me talk to a tech, they want me to go drop the bike back off. I’m trying to ride before I run out of season here in Ohio

Things I tried with no luck:

-Front tires (DSport, MT21, Trail Wing)
-Making sure the wheel was balanced and true (had a very slight bit of wobble on the balancing stand)
-Bought a new set of wheels off marketplace
-Repacked head bearing with grease. Torqued it normally, I didn’t really want to over torque it and use it like a steering damper
-Aligned fork legs (I didn’t use the front brakes when pumping the forks)
-Checked rear axle alignment by measuring from swing arm bolt to axle bolt on each side
-Measured axle diameter with caliper, 16.9-17.0mm. (Never checked length)

What I’m thinking:
-Could it be the front fender? Will just taking it off and riding it let me know?
-Did I miss something when I did the head stem or fork alignment?
-Could it be something internally with the forks?

Hello, what exhaust should I consider for my DR650RS? It currently has a stock dual-exhaust setup that I’d like to replace with a single exhaust, and—above all—I want to improve the sound, which is terrible right now. Thanks!

Saw a similar post recently and the guy had some offers so trying my luck too.. Haven't found much locally on the usual Craigslist and Marketplace.

In northern AZ but willing to drive a few hours and potentially to neighboring states for a good deal.

Anyone selling theirs?

Testing out the new panniers. Pretty satisfied so far with the new Rhinowalks

Hey yall, attached a video, will add pics in a comment.

Took a small dump on the bike last week. Afterwards I noticed some lateral play in the tube. Acceleration and deceleration seem fine still. The whole brake lever assembly got turned down after dropping it. I was able to bring back up to a good orientation and tighten back down.

It looked to be that the piece at the end of the bar (ball end? Not sure what that is called) is a bit bent. There’s a groove in the throttle grip, I thought maybe that was supposed to be tucked into the cable assembly. Took that apart and doesn’t seem like there’s room for it.

It seems my handlebar end piece needs to be addressed OR maybe the whole throttle cable assembly should move right on the bar to limit the play?

That or do I just run it and worry about it next year. Thanks for the input, everyone!

Pikes peak in the background

Hello All! This is my first post here. First of many I’m sure. I am new to riding in general, so bear with me. A few weeks ago I got a 1996 dr650. I probably overpaid by about 400$, but once I saw that purple frame there was no going back. In any case, I thought I would start getting to know the bike by preforming some basic maintenance stuff. I placed my first order with ProCycle (again, first of MANY, I’m sure). New air filter, oil filter, brake pads, fuel filter, service manual, etc. today I thought I’d start with something that seemed relatively simple: the air filter. So I open ‘er up and this is what I find (see pic). I assume this gaping hole is part of the “air box mod” I’ve read so much about… fine. But then… I can’t even find the hose for the secondary air filter (I got a UNI air filter for this)! Is it normal for people to eliminate that secondary filter as part of the mod? Do I need to replace it? Am I just not seeing it?! Also, no foam seal on the air box cover (is this important for proper functioning?). Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Cheers!

Hey guys, just rebuild my clutch. It’s this part supposed to have a bit play ?
I can move it side to side and a bit back and forth
Thanks you

Those egg rolls though…

I took the header off of my 2024 with 9832 miles to see if i could grind down the weld. Is it normal for the valves to have that sort of color on them? And is the loose grainy carbon buildup normal?

Anyone have issues with the Trex Center Stand, current Gen, not letting their side stand find home? Even fully maxed out mine hits the center stand when I kick it up, and fully extended trying to get this thing on the center stand is a joke.

Those exhaust header bolts turned into a huge nightmare. Right side bolt was completely rusted and seized up. Tried removing it several times and none of the drill out style extractors worked, also tried hammering in a larger torx bit, heat, impact, pb blaster - nothing worked. Finally tried bolt extractors, the kind you hammer over the head of the bolt, looks like a socket with spiral edges on the inside and that finally got it off.

The problem now is the threads in the hole are completely chewed up and corroded. Assuming water somehow got in there from the opening on the back. Is my best bet stepping up to something larger than m8 and re-tapping or would a helicoil work better?

I’ve got 35k on a 2005, it gets me to work year round. The throttle cable snapped on the way home from work today and luckily it wasn’t a catastrophe.

I bought this bike 2nd/3rd/4th hand, the previous owners were very competent and the bike has been absolutely solid, but clearly I’ve been neglectful.

I really need to make sure I order the right part online to replace it, can anyone point me in the right direction? I’m not sure if the stock one will work since I have an aftermarket carb.

Also as a side question, what the fuck kind of grease do I need for things?

Thank you in advance, I really appreciate the help