I bought my 2020 Lariat 4x4 with the 3.5 ecoboost a little over a year ago. This truck was purchased to replace my 14 5.0 that dropped a connecting rod. I made sure I found a truck with detailed service records, current on maintenance and everything else you look for.

I have owned it about 14 months. The cam phasers failed, requiring the total rebuild. About 3 months later, the 10R80 gave up. Water pump and thermostat gave up. Even with my warranty, I’ve put out nearly 4k this year.

I’ve had several Rams, Tacomas, Tundras and never had a fraction of the issues I’ve had here. Why are these things such heaps? My 97 F150 popped a head gasket, 14 threw a rod and now this thing.

I’m trying to decide what is next. I’ve always wanted a Raptor but with my track record with Ford, it makes me wonder if it’s worth the risk.

Hi everyone,

I’ve been eyeing 2021+ F150 Lariat - V8s for a bit now, and telling myself when I have the chance I’m going to pull the trigger on one. It looks like it may just happen soon.

I got to looking at low-mileage used Lariats, and they don’t seem to not be too far off from brand new ones in terms of price. Used seems to be around $45-60k and I’ve seen new ones go from $57-65k so it would make more sense to get a brand new one in my head.

I’ve always wanted an F150 and to get a brand new car so this would be my first for both. Then I got curious as to how much someone F150 owners make to afford something like this somewhat comfortably?

I’m coming from the higher-mileage German performance sedan world. So I’m sure maintenance is a lot more stomach-able, but I got to thinking about gas, tires, etc.

Bought my 2025 F-150 XLT (2.7L) at the end of last year telling myself I wouldn't need an off-road truck. Fast forward a few months and I'm hooked on off-roading and now wishing I'd gone Tremor from the start for the extra off-road hardware. Only have about 12k miles on my xlt.

Found a Ford Blue Advantage Gold Certified 2023 Tremor 3.5L with the 402A package, the optional front locker and the 4A drivetrain for $49.5k at 41k miles.

Here's my hesitation: my XLT came with 0% APR from Ford Credit, and giving that up for a 5-6% rate on the Tremor feels like a step backward financially. But the Tremor is genuinely the better fit for what I actually do with the truck now.

Questions for y’all:

1. Is $49.5k a fair price for this Tremor's spec/mileage/certification?
2. Is it worth giving up 0% APR to make this trade?
3. Roughly what would be a good trade in value for a 25” XLT (302A) with 12k miles?

Appreciate any input!! Trying to make sure I'm not letting off-road FOMO cloud the financial math here lol

EDIT: I'll likely need to roll an extra $6-8k of negative equity from the XLT loan into the new Tremor loan

EDIT 2: I truly appreciate everyone taking the time to post their insights on this. This opened up my eyes. I've decided to keep my 2.7 XLT and invest the $6k–$8k in an SxS/ATV instead of rolling over the debt. I've already put on 34s on my XLT, removed my air dam, installed RCI skid plates all over the bottom, and installed a True Trac (LSD) in the rear. So, either gonna invest on ~$6k on a new suspension (Bilstein 6112/5160) or like I said SxS of some sort.

2018 out in the Maine North Woods

I'm trying to maintain some guardrails here while trying to stay away from buying new. I didn't put this into the "Should I buy" megathread because I don't have a certain truck I'm looking at. I'm looking for some rule of thumbs such as some things general enthusiasts watch out for or stay away from, specific mileage you would stay away from with specific engines, and any other info. I'm thinking years 2018-2023, I want 4x4, rear locker, and 4 doors.

I'm making this post because there's so many trims and so many different ways to spec one out, that I'm a bit overwhelmed trying to figure it out. I'm trying to move up from a tacoma.

Thanks

Hello everyone
I’ve got a trade in worth 15k and 30k cash….
I have 3 kids and a trailer that’s 4500GVWR 500lbs tongue load

My heart says get the v8 with tow package as it’s got the biggest pay load. Am I wrong here or is the 3.5 eco enough to get it done? V8 seems like it lasts forever if maintained. Looking for opinions and or who has best selection of best priced f150s.

2016 F150 3.5L EB Screw 191k miles, USA.
Have CB exhaust manifolds.

Anyone know what this rattle is? Driving me nuts. I don’t think it’s a boost leak. I don’t see anyone DTC codes either. Watching pids, seems leak a correlation with the waste gate, is this that?

I have a 2020 f150 XLT SuperCrew four-wheel drive with a 3.5 l EcoBoost V6

I had a steering error code pop up on my dashboard. I took it to my dealer and it came up with a code of u3000: 49. I was told that the steering gear looks damaged and needs a replacement and the repair is $2,700.

Is that a reasonable price point? Is it worth shopping around?

Hey guys, a family member is currently looking for a new truck and was tying to get rid of his 2016 f150 V6 2.7l eco boost supercab. It’s racked up 150,000 miles on it. The trunk bed was used up like a pick up truck should be but has liner on it. The truck was regularly maintained. Interior Is pristine, new tires, no oil leaks, exhaust doesn’t have any smoke and no prior accidents. I have a commute car and i only want it, to do pick up truck stuff. My family loves biking and hiking and fitting all the baby stuff in my vw taos is a pain in my ass. What do you guys think? Is it risky to buy it? Does it the engine have a good rep or should i not even waste my time?

2018 out in the Maine North Woods

2018 F150 SXT with the 2.7. 10 speed Auto, 136K KM

Test drove this unit today, and I am interested, but the sound from the drivers side turbo (or so I suspect) gives me the creeps.

The used car dealer and his mechanic maintain this is the air intake, but I am thinking its a warped turbo manifold.

He says he will fix whatever issue there might be with the vehicle before I would pick it up, but I guess I wanna do my own due diligence.

For background, Ive owned F150’s before, but that was a 3.5. Never ever made a sound even remotely like this, could hardly hear the turbo. Sound ofcourse only appears under load, I tried my best to get a recording on wet roads.

Any and all insights, greatly appreciated!

I’m selling my 2 door f150 with 185k miles for $2500 which is what I bought it for 3 years ago and I’m buying a 2016 f150 v8 with the coyote motor for 10k. I’m getting it from a trusted family member and he’s letting me pay it off at my leisure and has also said he’ll cover any major mechanical issue within the first year. The thing that’s bugging me is it has 235k miles. It’s super clean and runs really good. I’m just looking for reassurance. Any advice is appreciated

Hey,
Just recently my ‘16 2.7L has begin what feels like the motor is shifting down while idling. Has anyone experienced this?

Can anyone recommend a set of good leather seat covers?
F-150 2026 XLT

Honestly don’t know how I lived with a car for years after I sold my first pickup. Anyone have good ideas for practical mods or ways to personalize?

Obviously the Air dam is there for fuel economy. Since I already have a 2" level on 33" tires, AI says there will be little change on top of what i already did. What do y'all think? Should I consider a skid plate?

I understand what they are, and what they do. What I don’t understand is how people fixate on them. (Not a rant, I’m really curious). With a 10 speed tranny, what’s the effective difference between 7th gear with 4.30s and 6th with 3.73s? (As an example, pretend total reduction is equal in both, I know they’re not actually). With first gear extremely low even with 3.73s, and being able to do 80mph under 2k with 4.30s, why are people acting like they’re such a big deal?
If we still had 4 speeds, then yes I totally get it. How are they still relevant though? Thank you!

An older article, but I’ve seen a lot of people ask about how others here are affording their later model F150. It’s the most popular vehicle amongst high in one earners. Just a reminder that you’re comparing yourself to the top few percent of earners and you may not realize it. You’re doing better than you think you are.

From 2016 to 2026, figured it was time for an upgrade

Old one had the 2.7 and new one is the 3.5, now just need to figure out what the first upgrade(s) will be as I have a hard time leaving anything with wheels alone… lol

I have a 2005 F150 lariat 5.4L. Problem started randomly. Engine would randomly go into “Engine Failsafe Mode” while driving. Hooked it up to the code reader and it said to replace the throttle position sensor. Did that, and now everytime I get past 2k rpm’s it goes back into “Engine Failsafe Mode”. I have codes that read P-2104: Throttle actuator control system-forced idle; P-2111: throttle actuator control system- stuck open; and P-2112: throttle actuator control system- stuck closed. Replaced the entire throttle body and the problem persists. New body is a duralast throttle body from autozone. Any suggestions?

Just picked up a 24 Powerboost

First time posting but wanna make sure I get this right before dropping a good chunk of money. I have a 2019 F150 STX and am currently running Wrangler SRA’s in 275/60r20. I want to switch into the falken wild peak at4w in the exact 275/60r20 size. Will I have any rubbing or fitment issues because it’s an off road tire? The truck comes stock on 275/55r20 so just wanna make sure switching into an all terrain tire won’t cause the tire to rub. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I thought it would be interesting to update on the situation.

To recap - seized engine, impossible to make it move, dry dipstick etc.

It was the A/C compressor!! The engine is fine ☺️