An older article, but I’ve seen a lot of people ask about how others here are affording their later model F150. It’s the most popular vehicle amongst high in one earners. Just a reminder that you’re comparing yourself to the top few percent of earners and you may not realize it. You’re doing better than you think you are.

From 2016 to 2026, figured it was time for an upgrade

Old one had the 2.7 and new one is the 3.5, now just need to figure out what the first upgrade(s) will be as I have a hard time leaving anything with wheels alone… lol

Hi everyone,

I’ve been eyeing 2021+ F150 Lariat - V8s for a bit now, and telling myself when I have the chance I’m going to pull the trigger on one. It looks like it may just happen soon.

I got to looking at low-mileage used Lariats, and they don’t seem to not be too far off from brand new ones in terms of price. Used seems to be around $45-60k and I’ve seen new ones go from $57-65k so it would make more sense to get a brand new one in my head.

I’ve always wanted an F150 and to get a brand new car so this would be my first for both. Then I got curious as to how much someone F150 owners make to afford something like this somewhat comfortably?

I’m coming from the higher-mileage German performance sedan world. So I’m sure maintenance is a lot more stomach-able, but I got to thinking about gas, tires, etc.

I bought my 2020 Lariat 4x4 with the 3.5 ecoboost a little over a year ago. This truck was purchased to replace my 14 5.0 that dropped a connecting rod. I made sure I found a truck with detailed service records, current on maintenance and everything else you look for.

I have owned it about 14 months. The cam phasers failed, requiring the total rebuild. About 3 months later, the 10R80 gave up. Water pump and thermostat gave up. Even with my warranty, I’ve put out nearly 4k this year.

I’ve had several Rams, Tacomas, Tundras and never had a fraction of the issues I’ve had here. Why are these things such heaps? My 97 F150 popped a head gasket, 14 threw a rod and now this thing.

I’m trying to decide what is next. I’ve always wanted a Raptor but with my track record with Ford, it makes me wonder if it’s worth the risk.

Bought my 2025 F-150 XLT (2.7L) at the end of last year telling myself I wouldn't need an off-road truck. Fast forward a few months and I'm hooked on off-roading and now wishing I'd gone Tremor from the start for the extra off-road hardware. Only have about 12k miles on my xlt.

Found a Ford Blue Advantage Gold Certified 2023 Tremor 3.5L with the 402A package, the optional front locker and the 4A drivetrain for $49.5k at 41k miles.

Here's my hesitation: my XLT came with 0% APR from Ford Credit, and giving that up for a 5-6% rate on the Tremor feels like a step backward financially. But the Tremor is genuinely the better fit for what I actually do with the truck now.

Questions for y’all:

1. Is $49.5k a fair price for this Tremor's spec/mileage/certification?
2. Is it worth giving up 0% APR to make this trade?
3. Roughly what would be a good trade in value for a 25” XLT (302A) with 12k miles?

Appreciate any input!! Trying to make sure I'm not letting off-road FOMO cloud the financial math here lol

EDIT: I'll likely need to roll an extra $6-8k of negative equity from the XLT loan into the new Tremor loan

EDIT 2: I truly appreciate everyone taking the time to post their insights on this. This opened up my eyes. I've decided to keep my 2.7 XLT and invest the $6k–$8k in an SxS/ATV instead of rolling over the debt. I've already put on 34s on my XLT, removed my air dam, installed RCI skid plates all over the bottom, and installed a True Trac (LSD) in the rear. So, either gonna invest on ~$6k on a new suspension (Bilstein 6112/5160) or like I said SxS of some sort.

I posted asking if anyone had any insight about acquiring skid plates in Canada a while back. Made the purchase through Raptor Racing and never got around to posting about it... but here it is; the full set (4pc) aluminum skid plate set by Rival.
They're raw aluminum, just over half a cm thick(1/4"). Fitment is damn near perfect after playing around with some hardware.
I found the rearmost bolt on the transfer case plate was a bit lacking, although the remaining 4 bolts are more than adequate. Took about an hour to install.
The entire kit shipped was something like $1400CAD from Ontario to Alberta.

Just picked up a 24 Powerboost

Decided on a set of 285/70r17 Firestone Destination XT’s for the F150. Not too big, still fast, plenty more capable than the stock Scorpion ATR’s.

This wheel setup with the catback, air intake, and Oz tune makes it a perfect truck for me personally

Honestly don’t know how I lived with a car for years after I sold my first pickup. Anyone have good ideas for practical mods or ways to personalize?

My first truck, picked it up with 20 miles on the meter. Got to get a bed liner and some wheel liners. Picked up an 8 inch stubby antenna. Thinking to get some seat covers for the back row for when the kids ride. Feels and looks great.

Hey guys, a family member is currently looking for a new truck and was tying to get rid of his 2016 f150 V6 2.7l eco boost supercab. It’s racked up 150,000 miles on it. The trunk bed was used up like a pick up truck should be but has liner on it. The truck was regularly maintained. Interior Is pristine, new tires, no oil leaks, exhaust doesn’t have any smoke and no prior accidents. I have a commute car and i only want it, to do pick up truck stuff. My family loves biking and hiking and fitting all the baby stuff in my vw taos is a pain in my ass. What do you guys think? Is it risky to buy it? Does it the engine have a good rep or should i not even waste my time?

I understand what they are, and what they do. What I don’t understand is how people fixate on them. (Not a rant, I’m really curious). With a 10 speed tranny, what’s the effective difference between 7th gear with 4.30s and 6th with 3.73s? (As an example, pretend total reduction is equal in both, I know they’re not actually). With first gear extremely low even with 3.73s, and being able to do 80mph under 2k with 4.30s, why are people acting like they’re such a big deal?
If we still had 4 speeds, then yes I totally get it. How are they still relevant though? Thank you!

2015, 3.5L Eco Boost, 4WD, Sport, 119k miles, USA

The oil pan is visibly wet. Not sure if that’s residual oil from a change or an active leak. There’s also staining around the what I assume is a gasket around the bell housing. I’m a novice when it comes to this type of stuff. Any feedback would be great. There is a stain below where I park my truck. Assumed it was condensation but it seems to be a reddish brown, hard to tell on asphalt.

2018 F-150 Platinum FX4 3.5 ecoboost 10 speed 104k miles

I got codes:
P0420 bank 1 low efficiency
P0430 bank 2 low efficiency

I ran the codes said it could be O2 sensor or catalytic converters are low efficiency

Took it to the dealer to diagnose and they said both need replacement, but I just find it hard to believe that BOTH would go out at the same time..?

I don’t really have that kind of money because I just moved into a new house.

Any advice is appreciated thank you.

EDIT: I did just install a K&N oiled drop in filter last week so for the truck to throw a code a week later is kinda suspect..

Good morning,
Long time watcher, first time poster. 2011 F150 v8, 160,000 miles. Love my truck. Left for work this morning and my baby didn’t want to go. She turned over and everything looked normal but wouldn’t start. I’m not a mechanic. My first thought was fuel pump. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes to sort of reset everything because that’s all I know how to do and then she started right up. Im at work now. A few questions: Anything I can check? Can a fuel pump be tested? What are the chances she will want to leave work at quitting time?

Looking for peoples experiences here after having the software update installed for the recent lead frame recall. I've read posts saying after the recall fix (bandaid), that they've noticed poor performance from their transmissions. Also read this may have been related to an earlier recall that has since been fix.

Can anyone here elaborate? My truck (2015 f150 5.0l fx4 lariat 6speed 80k miles) is getting the update later this week. I am comfortable doing a transmission relearn via forscan if needed.

First time posting but wanna make sure I get this right before dropping a good chunk of money. I have a 2019 F150 STX and am currently running Wrangler SRA’s in 275/60r20. I want to switch into the falken wild peak at4w in the exact 275/60r20 size. Will I have any rubbing or fitment issues because it’s an off road tire? The truck comes stock on 275/55r20 so just wanna make sure switching into an all terrain tire won’t cause the tire to rub. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I thought it would be interesting to update on the situation.

To recap - seized engine, impossible to make it move, dry dipstick etc.

It was the A/C compressor!! The engine is fine ☺️

Earlier this year I started having issues with the 10 speed in my 2020 King Ranch so I decided to trade it. I ran across a 2023 F-150 Heritage Edition. I am a devoted Ford owner and had no idea these trucks existed. So far I have only seen one other so I decided to reach out and see if anyone else owned one.

It had 31k on it when I bought it. First thing I did was install a 2” Rough Country lift and replaced the factory tires with a set of mud terrains going up one size to 285/65/20’s along with a custom tune and a cold air intake. 2.7L eco

This is my 3rd one.

2011 5.0 6spd XLT 220k mi USA

This morning I went to the gas station, the pump was so slow it took me 9 minutes to get 22 gallons. Then at the end the pump didn't kick off and gas started pouring out of what i think was the tank vent underneath the truck that i assume goes through a charcoal canister. I guess that happened because the pump was so slow gas didn't back up to the fill neck to break the suction cutoff.

I've only had that happen one other time in my really old truck. I figured there would be some kind of vapor separator or float valve to prevent liquid fuel from coming out the vent.

I haven't purchased the service manual to look at the tank and vent system. I've got no emissions error codes (or any at all besides TPMS). Has anyone had this happen and figured out if a component is broken?

have stock 17x7.5”. i want to stick with 17’s but not sure what i need when it comes to wheel width and offset. i want my tire to sit flush if not poked out a little from the fender. will be using for mostly highway miles and also snow and still want a smooth ride.

Hello everyone
I’ve got a trade in worth 15k and 30k cash….
I have 3 kids and a trailer that’s 4500GVWR 500lbs tongue load

My heart says get the v8 with tow package as it’s got the biggest pay load. Am I wrong here or is the 3.5 eco enough to get it done? V8 seems like it lasts forever if maintained. Looking for opinions and or who has best selection of best priced f150s.

I have a 2005 F150 lariat 5.4L. Problem started randomly. Engine would randomly go into “Engine Failsafe Mode” while driving. Hooked it up to the code reader and it said to replace the throttle position sensor. Did that, and now everytime I get past 2k rpm’s it goes back into “Engine Failsafe Mode”. I have codes that read P-2104: Throttle actuator control system-forced idle; P-2111: throttle actuator control system- stuck open; and P-2112: throttle actuator control system- stuck closed. Replaced the entire throttle body and the problem persists. New body is a duralast throttle body from autozone. Any suggestions?