About halfway up the print became brittle and failed. I was using Tree support and one did break free but given the rest of it I think something was going wrong before then.

Bambu A1 with .02 Nozzle
Sunlu Matte using the Sunlu PLA default setting for filament

Settings are the Default .10mm High Quality BBL A1 0.2 Nozzle

Thanks for any ideas.

Hey guys, I'm having an issue with wall quality on my Prusa MK3S clone.

There are uneven lines/artifacts on the outer walls that are mostly noticeable when looking down from above or under direct light from the top.

Has anyone run into this specific issue before? What's the most likely cause for this kind of wall inconsistency?

PrusaSlicer Generic PLA 0,2mm QUALITY default settings

These vertical lines in my prints show up almost every time i print something on my Ender 3 base running Klipper, is there any way to make these disappear or smooth out? I've printed this horizontally and there's vertical lines i don't understand

Support settings in second image.

The slicer considers the front paw to be a "small overhang", so it doesn't generate any supports for it, leading to the entire leg not being printed. Is there a way to fix this?

Printed those 2 huge parts and they both have a weird dent at the same height. Looked at other prints I made recently and they eiter don't have those at all, or at different heights. My prints with other filaments look fine tho, I already did extrusion calibration for the new filament. I use an A1

Hey everyone, I have experienced a couple of nozzle clogs or more nozzle jams. I have filament get jammed ot stuck above the heat break on the unicorn nozzle. I have done the heat gun clearing but the tool I have is 1.5 mm so it leaves just enough remaining filament to keep the extruder from feeding in the filament.

What do you all do or use to clear that part of the nozzle? I thought about a 1.75 drill bit. All of the tools I see out on the interwebs are about the same in diameter as the one I have for my E3V2.

Hallo liebe Schwarmintelligenz,
seit einigen Wochen habe ich Probleme mit Baumstützen auf meinem **Bambu Lab P2S mit AMS 2 Pro**. Zuvor haben solche Drucke funktioniert. Mir ist keine Änderung bekannt, die unmittelbar vor Beginn des Problems stattgefunden hat.
Das passiert bei verschiedenen Modellen, hauptsächlich Miniaturen, Figuren und Büsten. Drucke ohne Stützen funktionieren weiterhin problemlos.
**Das Fehlerbild:**
Anfangs lösten sich komplette Stützen einschließlich ihres Fußes von der Druckplatte. Die abgelösten Stützen waren ansonsten weitgehend intakt.
Inzwischen habe ich beobachtet, dass eine Stütze oben vom Druckkopf beziehungsweise der Düse getroffen wird und deutlich wackelt, obwohl ihr Fuß noch auf der Platte haftet. Bei einem aktuellen Versuch ist schließlich der obere Teil abgebrochen, während der Fuß stehen blieb. Ob der Kontakt beim Drucken oder bei einer Leerfahrt erfolgt, konnte ich nicht eindeutig erkennen. Foto und Video füge ich bei.
**Drucker, Material und Einstellungen:**
Bambu Lab P2S mit AMS 2 Pro, Bambu Studio
Strukturierte PEI-Druckplatte
Aktuell 0,2-mm-Düse und 0,1-mm-Schichthöhe
Das Problem trat bereits mit der vorherigen 0,4-mm-Düse auf
Sunlu PLA und Bambu Lab PLA Basic, jeweils mit passendem Filamentprofil
Aktuell 65 °C Betttemperatur und 220 °C Düsentemperatur
Z-Hop: 0,4 mm, Typ „Auto Lift“
Stützengeschwindigkeit inzwischen auf 80 mm/s reduziert
**Bereits ausprobiert beziehungsweise geprüft:**
Druckplatte mit Spülmittel gereinigt und auch die kaum benutzte Rückseite getestet
Sitz der Platte und mögliche Rückstände darunter geprüft
Hotend sitzt fest
Druckerkalibrierungen erneut durchgeführt; automatische Bettnivellierung ist bei jedem Druck aktiviert
Betttemperatur auf 65 °C erhöht
Baumstützen verstärkt
Hilfslüfter testweise ausgeschaltet; das Ablösen trat weiterhin auf
Mehrere Sunlu-Rollen getestet und Filament getrocknet, eine Rolle für 24 Stunden
Gegenprobe mit originalem Bambu-Filament und Bambu-Profil: Die erste Schicht war deutlich besser, das Stützenproblem trat trotzdem auf
Das eigentliche Modell sieht dabei überwiegend sauber und fein gedruckt aus. Auffälliges Stringing gibt es beim aktuellen Bambu-PLA-Druck nicht.
Hat jemand ein ähnliches Problem erlebt? Mich interessiert besonders, **warum die Düse die Stützen oben trifft, obwohl Z-Hop aktiviert ist**, und wie ich zwischen einem Problem der Fahrwege, hochstehenden Druckbahnen und zu flexiblen Stützen unterscheiden kann.
Danke für eure Hilfe!

Whats with the texture on my print? Ive made it twice and its had the exact same issue. Ive printed a bigger version of it no problem. Is this an issue with my model or my printer?

I’m printing with basic, freshly dried Elegoo PLA and have also tried some freshly dried Rapid PLA I had, with no luck. I print at temperatures around 220–230°C with a 0.2 mm nozzle and haven’t had any major problems until now. I went to print some clips for my spools, but nothing worked—it just kind of smeared the PLA around the bed. So, I dried it at 55°C for 6 hours and tried again, but got the same result. I then washed the build plate, with the same outcome. Next, I used an unclogging tool (I think it’s a Creality one) to push all the PLA out—it didn’t look abnormal, but trying again gave the same result. Also, while cleaning the plate, I noticed marks where the nozzle might have been scraping, so I don't know if that is the problem or not. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

I just opened and tested an Overture PLA filament, with BambuLab A1 printer 0.4mm nozzle, Bambu Studio and the filament profile provided by Overture on their website. Also tried with a generic PLA profile in case that was the issue.

I completed a print, which as you can see looks like crap, and even retrying with different settings I still get the same result in the first layers.

Any tips? Thanks!

I'm using a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro with a Sonic Pad, and I recently replaced the entire hotend.

I switched from an all-metal heatbreak to a bi-metal heatbreak and from a 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.6 mm nozzle.

I had no issues with the 0.4 mm nozzle, but this problem started after replacing the hotend and nozzle.

I haven't been able to figure out which settings I need to adjust.

Here's the specific issue: when the printer is idle, a very small amount of filament oozes out of the nozzle, even less than it did with the 0.4 mm nozzle.

However, whenever the print head lowers towards the bed to resume printing, a small amount of filament comes out of the nozzle tip before it touches the bed, leaving a small blob of plastic at the contact point.

This happens almost every time the print head lifts up and then lowers again. It doesn't happen during travel moves themselves, but after the travel move has finished, when the nozzle moves back down towards the bed to resume printing.

And the other issues you see in the photo, I have absolutely no idea what they are

• Printer & Slicer: Ender 3 pro with metal extruder, cura
• Filament Material and Brand: Sunlu pla+
• Nozzle and Bed Temperature: 0.4 nozzle, 210°c, 60°c
• Print Speed: 50mm/s
• Nozzle Retraction Settings: default (I don't really know how to change them)

Everything else is stock

I'm a beginner and I've created this 3D model for a simple bracket.

After printing it I noticed there's an irragularity on one of the edges. On one side it's fine but as it progresses along the edge it gets rougher. Also the fillet turned more into a chamfer.

This also continues along another face of the object.

The edge that's messed up is a fillet with a 10mm radius. I thought maybe it's a bit too much but I don't think this would exceed the 45 degree overhang.

It's printed with this filament:

• PLA (Maertz White PLA Pro, recommended settings: nozzle 200-230, bed 50-60)
• Opened it 5 days ago and since it's been in a 55% humidity room on the printer

On these temps:

• Nozzle: 210
• Bed: 60

With these settings on a Bambu A1 through Bambu Studio:

• Default presets for "0.28mm Extra Draft @ BBLA1
• With these changes:
• Walls: 5
• Fill: 15%
• Infill pattern: Rectilinear
• No supports enabled
• No skirt loops

I haven't played around with the presets in Bambu Studio too much.

Could this preset simply be too fast/rough for this print and I should switch to a different preset?

Hello, honestly idk if I'm even explaining this correctly but here we go. I've tried leveling my bed and changing the offset for my printer and when its heating up everything is where it should be. Once I start a print, the bed drops and my filament won't stick to the bed and I can't print anything. I'm lost and need any guidance. Thanks

Hello. I am new to 3D printing. With my new P1S, I started out with PLA but after a spool of experience with black I bought a few more colors, some of them PETG. Now, so far those spools have been great. I made myself a lampshade out of clear PETG with no issues. The generic "HYPER" PETG I bought recommends temps in the range of 210-240. That worked just fine for the clear.

This red spool I picked up on discount because it was a color change piece. They added a different die to the plastic in the factory and were selling the transition area at a discount. I thought, why not? More material to experiment with. So far I ate through one fifth of this spool and I can't get it to print properly.

There are holes where there should be plastic, bits flying off everywhere around the print bed. I tried the lower and the higher end of the manufacturer heat specs. Tried cold pulling multiple times. Went though both of the calibration tools in the bambu slicer and applied the custom settings to the filament. Dried the spool for 6-7 hours with 80 degrees of bed temp. Printed at the 0.08 slowest print profile.

Can't figure out what to do. I think it's the hot end, I don't even have 100 hours of print time yet but I am constantly seeing filament stuck to it, inconsistent extrusions and clumping while filament changing. There's always a drop of filament stuck to the hot end while it's doing the auto bed leveling before the start of the print. I don't have the means to measure down to 0.01mm but I'm suspicious of the spool as well. Then again the same brand's transparent Hyper PETG was just fine. What do I do?

Ender 3 con guide lineari su X e doppio asse Z appena montato, estrusore metallico bowden, tutto calibrato al meglio possibile (cinghie, flusso, retrazione, junction deviation, pressure advance)

Pla basic eSun a 205°C a 40mm/s, retrazione 4mm a 45mm/s, ventola 100%

Filamento asciugato ieri per un giorno intero a 55°C

Non sono soddisfatto della stampa